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Comments
I think I'll try moving the cross bars back first. The noise does not sound like it is coming from the driver's window. It is distinctly to the rear and above, or at least that is how it sounds to my ears.
If that doesn't work, I'll take them off and see what happens. Honestly, I've never had to use a roof rack before and I don't know how I'd tie something like lumber or pipe on it anyway.
If I still get noise after that, I'll look at the seal like suggested.
Cynthia
I've noticed that the flow up top is more pronounced without our hood deflector on. With the deflector on, the noise is minimal.
Also, the angles of the door glass can be adjusted - if it is indeed a seal issue. If the search worked you could look in the Subaru Crew General Mainenance section for those instructions.
-Brian
Tapping is OK as long as it goes away once the engine warms up. 5500 miles may be a long interval if you do short drives or live in a city. I used to go with a 7500 mile interval but I've basically decided to shorten that to 3000 miles.
Paul: try some lithium grease spray on the clutch pedal joints.
Emma: sorry about your CEL issues. Some people suggest taping over the light! :-)
Seriously, federal OBD2 standards have made these very common. Any vacuum leak in the gas vapor recovery system, like a loose gas cap, any water in the gas tank from condenstation that causes a single misfire, little things like that trigger a CEL, on any brand. New cars are worse because the standards are tighter. I was LOL when I read that many Miata.net members actually shop for pre-OBD models!
What can you do? Let the dealer read the codes, tell you what it was, and get it reset and hopefully, if the symptoms point to a clear problem, fix it.
What else can you do? Tighten the gas cap good. Several clicks. Also, try not to run around on an empty gas tank. If it's cold, condensation will get water in the gas tank, which could lead to a misfire - Bam, CEL.
Write your congressman! Tell them OBD2 goes too far! It's a major inconvenience for new car buyers of many brands. Subaru is not exception because their cars are LEVs, great for the environment, but they have to meet strict standards.
-juice
I love a simple fix!
-juice
I love it! Sounds like something from Star Trek!
Ken
Cheers!
Paul
Looks like I am going in anyway on Friday, my CD player, security system and air filtration are all here and waiting to be installed.
Cynthia
As for the rest of us, we are all smitten with Subarus. And we might sometimes bristle a bit when people get negative about the cars we love. Be patient with us. Imagine some stranger telling you that your child or dog doesn't smell quite as nice as he or she should.
Steve
-mike
The dealership has told me that this noise is normal in these types of cars. I am sure that they do not want to spend the time trouble shooting the problem, as they will not recover all cost from Subaru. And, I am definitely not satisfied with their explanation. I would be truly grateful for any advise that anyone would be willing to provide. Thank you very much.
Ted
OBD=on-board diagnostics, the stricter level 2 makes it OBD2.
Subypower works for a dealership, and Patti from SoA also roams these threads, but both admit that openly and follow all of Edmunds' rules.
Cynthia: cool, let us know how you like the new accessories. I have the air filtration too - asthma.
Ted: you think there could be a leak in the intake? It's easy to disassemble and reassemble.
-juice
I like Click and Clack's "Self Diagnostic Mode" method of car maintenance - drive it until it breaks and then you know what to fix. My '86 Subaru lasted 14 years before the rust got it (search for my previous posts on floating 4wd wagons in seawater). Search? Did I say search?
Once, on an old Datsun, I actually went so far as to take a teeny drill bit and drill through the face of the dash to pop the bulb for what passed for a CEL. You need to be careful getting the hole started so the bit doesn't wander, but it is a solution.
John (older and maybe bolder, but not much wiser)
P.S. - Eliminate wind noise...crank up the tunes!
I love ingenious solutions.
-juice
Earplugs does just as well. =D
-Dave
mike k
mike k
http://www.ravensblade-impreza.com/index1.html
Takes about 20 minutes and some chain lube.
I think that I can fashion the bumper back on reasonably securely, because it still is fine cosmetic ally. But if I need to replace the bumper cover, I would like to know what the part number is and how much it would cost from the dealer vs. used from a U-pull autorecycler. Anyone able to help me out? Thanks in advance.
By the way, my car is one of the first to comply with OBD2 regulations, which came into effect (at least in California) in 1996, and it is true that they are very strict, and lots of things can cause the CEL to come on. The most common is the gas cap, which causes this due to evaporative losses of gas vapor if it is loose or left out. I should add that I have never had the CEL come on in my car, but know people who have. Sometimes it is just because the gasket on the gas cap is old and worn out, so that it is not possible to tighten it enough to meet the OBD2 requirements.
The CEL mostly relates to things in the emissions system, which means that if it comes on you may be polluting more than you should be, but most likely there is no major problem with the operation of the car, and you are probably not causing additional damage if you need to continue driving.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I have them for the rear bumper cover of a Forester, but that won't help you much. Retail was $150 for the bumper skin, unpainted. I got it for $125 or so IIRC, and the Forester L is unpainted to it was ready to put on.
-juice
Mike k
Have same problem diagnosed as:
Noise coming from pinion bearing/Ring Gear....
by Jim Burke Subaru in Birmingham AL.
Parts are on order now for 3 weeks. Advisor says that its a 3 day job to repair and will provide free rental car.
Hope this helps you out.
Eric
Steve
Here's some good reading for ECU basics:
http://www.howstuffworks.com/car-computer.htm
Ken
I went thru weeks of frustration with this on my '97 Dodge Gnd Caravan in '99. The codes only tell them so much, at which point you are at the mercy of the service tech to figure out what is really wrong.
Nobody likes the inconvenience, but we do it in the name of clean air....
Steve
YetAnotherDave
-mike
Richard: pads are a small price to pay for quiet braking. Longer lasting pads (like in Europe) squeek to the high heavens, and Americans aren't tolerant to noise.
Maybe I've been lucky, or perhaps it's because I use engine braking with my 5 speed, but I'm on my original pads with 45k on my Forester, and they have never made a peep.
-juice
Greg
-juice
Greg
You got me thinking, maybe those indentations could be drilled out? I'll take another look at it.
Eric
And I do sympathize too - I have a friend who has to put a new set of front brake pads on his camry about every 20K.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
-juice
Greg
I think that the patented "smushy" Subaru brake feel may lead to overuse.
Of course, it may be me, I think I tend to be very easy on brakes and cars in general.
Cynthia
My parent live on top of a steep hill. They tend to use pads early.
High performance grippy pads wear out faster. Mercedes and BMW pads make a lot of dust and last 20k miles but they are very effective.
I would trade off short pad life for shorter stopping distances any day.
It's the same for tires. Good grippy tires only last 30k miles. I wouldn't put 80k mile tires on my car because they will increase stopping distances, reduce cornering and are hopeless in the snow.
If you don't like the added expense of replacement, think of it as buying safety.
As long as you are not wearing out the rotors there is no need to be concerned.