By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
On the plus side the dealer was great explaining the situation, fixing the other minor problems, and getting the rental car set up.
No car is perfect and I still expect to get 100+K out of the Bean. The customer service was excellent.
Steve
Anyway, the H4s have a program going on to reprogram the ECU for the CEL. Had mine done last week, although I had no CELs come on. I'm still convinced the car is running much smoother now.
James - I just put the Sport A2s on my OB. Really smooth and quiet. Good in the rain. However, they are new and I will need to see how they do with some tread gone and in the snow. For now, I would recommend them. FYI - their max pressure is 44PSI. I'm at 35 now and will try 40 this weekend (match my age).
Greg
Is this a service bulletin? If so, what years are affected?
Steve
Mine also did not exhibit the over sensitive CE, but was one of the ECU's affected. 2 tankfuls later, I haven't notice a difference. Seems the same (which is good, since I liked the way it was running prior to the update).
-Brian
You might actually bounce on some potholes affecting control and I'm sure your ride would suffer.
My $0.02.
Jim
OK - lets start a little friendly competition. Who can get the most miles out of their Subaru without major overhauls. Minimum requirement is 200K to qualify. Of course it will be a while before some of us can get near that (only at 25K now). Let the clock start.
Greg
-mike
-mike
This results in ride deterioration, shock overheating, and a tire that loses contact with the ground a higher percent of the time over rough pavement. No improvement in ride, deteriorated traction, and increased wear on components including the tire which wears out its center. Even snow traction and braking distance suffer.
You should consider remaining within a few pounds of the factory pressures unless you've changed the tire size to a larger one. Then you should consider staying below the factory pressure as the larger tire has a greater load capacity at a given pressure and you are again trying to remain within the tire spring rate the unchanged suspension expects to deal with.
The fine print on the tire is something like "44 psi at 1040 lbs load" if you are going to overload the car, you can increase the pressure up to 44 psi. Just don't use that high a pressure with the typical day-to-day loads.
It reminds me of a photo on one of the Edmund's topics. A Pinto or similar with bags of cement in the back and 10 or 12 sheets of plywood on top. The tires were flattened by the immense weight.
Doug, thanks for the clearer explaination.
Thanks,
Greg
I don't brake for no railroad tracks!
I usually run +3 psi on my Legacy, about 35 front and 33 rear. Maintaining the factory recommended 2 psi difference front to rear.
Jim
Hopefully they didn't get confused and ship the old ECU out to someone else!
Steve
60-80mph. If throttle is released and at
speed between 60-80 the whistle stops completely.
This is DEFINITELY a throttle(accelerator pedal) depressed symptom. The dealer diagnosed the problem as "Pinion Bearing / Gear Ring"
Dealer replaced all the necessary parts and the whistle symptom still remained. Dealer said they considered the car repaired and referred me to the District Rep. I'm currently awaiting for him to return from vacation so he can have a good listen. Just hope he doesn't wear hearing aids and has an open mind to the fact that the whistle noise is still present.
The noise is just a little different sounding now after the repair work, but is still there while the throttle is depressed and speeds of 60-80mph.
An added note, this last week I test drove the exact same vehicle at TWO different dealerships and both cars DID NOT have the throttle generated whistle between 60-80mph.
Just thinking out loud.
Not bad, about 3 hours. Found it for $150 from a local WRX owner that got XM satellite radio. Sweet deal.
I'm looking for another if anyone knows of one, this for my Forester.
-juice
Service rep told me it was caused by air moving over the roof rack cross bar. I didn't believe him but the next time I heard the whining noise I slightly popped the front moon roof to alter the air flow over the cross member and the noise immediately stopped.
If you don't have a limited with the moonroof try removing the cross bar to see if the noise stops.
Vince
Greg
Greg
Thanks!
Patti
-juice
juice-
will keep an eye out
I'm scavenging for subwoofer now and maybe tweeters for the OBS
-Dave
-juice
* is the A/C on, if so could it be the compressor noise?
* water in the gas line? Try DryGas
* ignition system? change plugs/wires
* rear limited-slip differential is engaging due to the tire pressure differences (edit: no, not on a VDC)
It's hard, because most likely for the 2nd and 3rd items above, you'd get a CEL.
-juice
VDC system works like an LSD and would apply brake in that situation.
-mike
-juice
It's nice to be out of Dodge Neon rental!
Patti, was your message to contact Subaru for me. If so I don't feel it's necessary since the car was repaired albeit three days later than expected.
Steve
I'm sorry it took so long!
Patti
Mike- are you suggesting that the VDC may cause my "flutter" if a tire has lower pressure than the rest??? I get no VDC light activity. Thanks, Pete
-mike
I was thinking on the same line as Mike.
If I understood correct the VDC, like our AWD, is constantly working. Why no VDC light? Look at it as an idiot light, in the event of adverse condition, to tell you not to panic and it is the VDC at work. The tire pressure diff is not adverse enough to kick the VDC into full fledge counter measure and turn on the 'idiot' light.
-Dave
-mike
Thanks
Steve Ochs
Mesa, AZ
I have an appointment with the dealer to look into these problems, but I would like to hear from any other Subaru owners who have similar experiences. Emma
bit
BTW, you would have been fine w/o the paint protection. More than likely, you could have saved yourself $$$ by just doing routine waxing. IMHO, YMMV.
-Brian
I could hear them @ ~70mph and up, if there isn't any other road noise masking it.
-Dave
I and a number of other members unfortunately are experiencing a slow coolant loss with H6 engines and as far as I can determine no resolutions have been reached, regrettably including our own problem.
Has anyone else had an oil analysis done, and if so was glycol present in the sample?
I would like to establish a data base of the number of individuals who have this problem, the types of repairs, if any, which were done and the result of these repairs.
Please contact me at :
RobertSmith320@hotmail.com
The dealer can adjust the window angles to address that noise. We've been CEL-free. But don't worry much unless it is blinking. Our L model does not have cross bars and it's very quiet, so check those.
If a dealer sells paint protection and it fails to protect the paint, they'd better cover it. Or at least get a refund on that nonsense.
Robert: I haven't heard of specific complaints here at Edmunds about that.
-juice
I certainly don't think this is a frequent problem with the H6, but I would like a better explanation than there is no external leaks (per the dealer). No leaks, but where is it going? I can't imagine that evaporation or air pockets explain it.
Mike