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Comments
This really begs the question, why did you need new Calipers on a 2006????
Generally, I start with the fronts (run plenty of fluid through) Closest to brake booster/master cylinder first, then other front, then each of the rears...
Remember that you need to use DOT 4 (that is heavy duty, low moisture, high temp). Keep reservoir near full while bleeding. I alway use a bleeding kit now, get at auto parts house. Also bleed while engine is running to use boost to increase flow speed (to shoot the bubbles out). I have also had to go around the entire vehicle twice, especially when pushing out old (dark) fluid.
DOT3 is not corect fluid, too much moisture, and low temp threshold.
DOT5 is NOT correct, it is wrong chemical makeup and is NOT compatible.
These are guidelines I use, but are general and your specific application (Sprinter) could be different. I have not tried them out as I don't need calipers on my Sprinter yet.
Please let us know about the reason for new calipers, I am very interested in this. :confuse:
Thanks,
KenB :shades:
2002-2006 are pretty easy as upfitters have had them for a while.
2007-2008 for USA/Canada is certainly tougher, newer.
Thanks,
KenB :shades:
:lemon:
Your Sprinter is """NOT""" the exception,myself 11 warranty trips to MB workshop at 45K.miles.A metal junkbox on 4 wheels, would never buy a Mercedes product again.Now at 80K miles and still heaving problems,plus new MB rule $100 deductible after 39K miles for every warranty visit to your dealer.
model cycle. Same thing happens with every
make. 2001 Lexus 300 was at the end of the
model and very good. Lexus 2002 350 was full
of problems. Helps to look before you leap.
The only thing that needs attention are the stock tires, which are still OK but nearly ready to replace, and the battery is getting a little tired. I haven't had a single mechanical problem. I'm keeping my fingers crossed, though. I'm hoping that there will be another option available in the US soon, like the Ford Transport (?) or the cool diesel passenger vans that Toyota sells in Africa. There are a LOT of sprinter-like vehicles that are available in other countries.
The dodge site now lists electric sunroof and electric sliding doors for the cargo van.
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Time to order.
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Also, remember that the shifter and the accelerator are not attached to the thing they shift... they are electronic items that send signals. This is also not unique to MB, most car companies are going to fly-by-wire for most car functions.
I am NOT as happy with the new battery (MOPAR) as I was with the original (VARTA) battery... starting on COLD days not as good now.
The HEAT knob is a famous problem that is not a problem (it is by design, not sure if that is not worse)... Somewhere hidden in your van is a sensor, but I have not yet found it, nor have I got an answer in the posts I've made as to where it is either... Until that sensor is up to the temp the knob indiciates (cryptically of course as there are no markings), it will try to put out heat to get the sensor to reach that temp... Since the sensor is NOT in the air flow path (might be on the return side, but I doubt that also), the heater will work until the sensor heats up (unless you have the knob set to COLD, or very nearly so).
Knob temps range on the cold side from below 62F to much warmer than that (maybe 80 or 88F)... Not my choice of range as I prefer a cooler cabin, even in the winter (especially as I must wear clothing appropriate for working outside at least parttime). Mustn't get hot/cold/hot/cold/hot/cold as this is the best way to suffer bad effects of temps.
Once the van cabin is generally heated up, then the knob becomes useful for adjusting the airflow side of heat/cool on demand. My friend's fancy Corvette works exactly the same, and he doesn't like it either (his car cost twice what my Sprinter did as well).
My wife has Asthma, so we like the cabin air filter and the recirculate button... until the recirculate function just cuts off after about 15 minutes (how lovely when you are following a junker with and oil/fuel burning habit!!!
In case you hadn't noticed, the dash-top vents do NOT heat at all, they are after the A/C, but before the heater core... When I need air flow and window clearing, but not much heat, I send the heat to the windshield by the knob control and only open the dashtop vents to balance the temp.
European cars apparently earn their stripes for something OTHER than environmentals/airflow.
KenB :shades:
KenB :shades:
Thanks,
KenB :confuse:
PS Just received the winter front mask from sprinter accessories, 105.00. Doesn't seem to fit right. Have sent them email. Will keep every one informed on this.
KenB :shades:
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The 2006 Dodge Sprinter was effectively the leftover models they did not sell in Europe the previous year.
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Europe being a much bigger Sprinter market, DC decided to stiff the USA buyers with -new- leftovers so they could keep prices high in Europe and clear the lots easily.
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It is only now that we are seeing the vehicle that came out two years ago - with all the options. This is why I waited. If they spent a billion on the redesign something had to be better.
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With the birth of our 5th child due Jan 1st it looks like we're going to outgrow our standard 7 seat SUV. Right now we're maxed out on storage space and seating (keeping the more unruley children seperated!) with what we've got. I'm hoping to move up to bigger (and hopefully more fuel efficient) diesel Sprinter sometime this winter. Anyone know of any new or low mileage '07 nine seaters still around?
With the low dollar to euro ratio it seems like the '08 will be a little out of our budget.
Great site and I look forward to chatting with you all about the van you (and hopefully I will) love so well in the future.
Thanks,
Orb
Like any vehicle, the Sprinter cannnot overcome the rules of physics... slower is better in questionable condintions. Also, many people have recommended different tires for Winter conditions (Bridgestone Blizzaks are a commonly mentioned good choice). As in the past, it is best that you don't run the winter tires year 'round as they wear away the tread features that make them so good in the worst conditions.
I prefer the the 2006, and a few are still around, but not so much selection I would think. Less power (but plenty for most people), but (2 MPG) better mileage than the latest model.
KenB :shades:
Thanks Sean
The happy part is that they only charged you $15.00 for a gallon of coolant, it is special (G05) HOAT and a gallon (undiluted) costs that much (maybe more) at Pep Boys. Otherwise, they didn't put the right anti-freeze in and you now need to change it ALL out.
On this and other forums we have discussed that most of the time the EGR valve actually just needs cleaned when it first malfunctions, but it is not common for a factory mechanic to do this anymore.
As seen in the ebay and other on-line sources that glow-plug was way over priced, the glow plug module is often more though, the labor was way high unless they had to move the engine to change it out.
I think we have talked about getting a local mercedes (non-dealership) mechanic to start working on your van... I think now is the time... you've gotten close to 100K miles and your dealership is not giving you a good feeling about service. If you have time to check out local options in mercedes or diesel mechanics, especially to start a relationship you can trust, you probably should.
MB, like Cadillac, Lexus, Mitsubishi and a few others have a reputation of high parts costs (without being exotic... Ferrari parts are insane). This does not, however, mean that Dodge should be boosting the prices of simple replacement parts... these are trucks, and not high-end cars/suvs.
Thanks,
Kenneth
screws.Check groundscrew (firewall above battery)
2.H&AC booster motor:Check 2 pluckin connetion,one close to the motor,one about 12" next to cabin airfilter.
If not, do so now...
Cold weather make it worse???
Fuel quality problem? use Power Service (white bottle with red/black lettering) to help get rid of emulsion/clouded/gelled fuel due to cold weather effects.
Power Service Silver bottle in summer (improves Cetane rating more).
KenB :sick:
2005 is a good year... mainly you need to see all of the maint. records so far.
Regular oil, filter, and such excluded, I (personally) would not expect ANY maintnenance for the next three (3) years of normal useage.
Your oil change (10K miles) would be about $90 including 10 qts. of good synthetic oil. At a dealership it might be double that.
Your fuel filter change due at 36K miles is the cost of the filter $40-$70, about three clamps, and a TORX driver if you don't already have a set... A dealership quoted me about 4 times that ($180)... (I am using $45 filter cost)... (I got my filter for less than $40 and it is totally OEM).
You'll need an air filter or two (in three years) at about $34 each (autozone in OK does carry them, and in the high-dust version at that).
If you hit 80K miles you'll need the tranny service... fully synthetic ATF (several sources are OK per the Dodge info) and the filter/seal set ($85 +/-). At a dealership this is VERY expensive... do it yourself and you MUST keep track of ALL fluid drained/lost to get the level back correctly... (no dipstick for tranny)... Expect the dealership to be 3 times your cost in parts/fluids OR MORE... Also consider that most enthusiasts and maint. specialists are expecting the tranny service at 60K miles for the life of the vehicle (not the once at 80K miles that was advertised).
If the A/C and or heater/cooling options have all been exercised regularly they should continue to be OK through 3 more years of service. But you might need a cabin air filter (depending on dust levels you encountered) I would change this at 40K miles ($40 or so, install yourself).
The worst of the little nagging problems were gone from 2004-2006 US models, but a few things pop up now and then... that is why you want all of the old records possible.
Passenger or cargo?
Good Luck,
KenB
now I owe VALK a better answer on his ESPAR questions... :surprise:
Mercedes is unveiling the 4x4 Sprinter in June!
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Hopefully Dodge gets them for 2009.
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two weeks ago this happened in Asheville and i got it to the dealer and they said- bad alternator. we replaced that and two weeks later the same problem.
Since the van still runs, i can't be the alternator.
Does anyone have any ideas?
:confuse: :confuse:
thanks james
I am wondering if anybody has attempted this yet and if so, I am on the right path to make this work?
thanks for the help
dave
dave
Russ
I have not had any problems mechanically with the Sprinter, knock wood, and just hit 22,000 miles. If I did however, I would not go to Dodge. I am not comfortable with their service people---but I also have a Toyota and wouldn't go to Toyota service either.
I would not hesitate to buy these trucks--- they are trucks, not vans. The ride isn't as comfortable as the Ford was-- but the benefits I have received are definitely worth it.
Bob, I thank yopu for taking the time and giving me your input.
to help us solve problems mostly.
I purchased an 06 long and tall for my electrical construction Co. now with 55 K on same with not even a whisper of a problem.I do have a bit of a whine noise in the tranny at 2000 RPM but that is common for the 5 cylinder automatic Sprinter.
I travell across the Western Canadian prairie provinces for my work ,so needless
to say the average 25 MPG that I get is quite nice.I carry a stocked warehouse so to speak with me,approx 2500 lbs,and it performs very well,uphill,etc. and at speeds of
65 to 70 mph.I did get 28 mpg at one time and if I am careful with my driving ,I know I can achieve it again.
This beats my Ford 1 Ton hands down.
I did install a set of overloads ,because of the constant weight.
I also have the deluxe seats and I find it comfortable,more so than my old Ford.
My suggestion would be to get a history of service if possible on this unit you are looking at.
They are fantastic machines as far as I am concerned.
Go for it !
Best regards
Guy
Russ
Frank
Frank