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For those who have this problem, Ford dealers charge a wide range of prices to fix it. I've called half a dozen Ford dealers in my area and no two were the same. Prices ranged from $800 to $2000. On the lower end, most of the dealers are using a threaded insert repair. There are many kits on the market specifically designed for Ford Triton V8 spark plug thread repairs. (Just goes to show how common the problem is) Helicoil, KD, Lisle and Timesert all make kits. Ford dealers tend to use the Timesert threaded inserts because of two unique features http://www.timesert.com/html/triton_repair2.html . First, Timeserts have a positive locking shoulder. The bottom threads on the insert also lock in place once the drive tool is used to locate it. Other inserts suffer from backing out or in and blowing out again. Of course, there's no guarantee with the Timesert either and the dealer won't warrant the work. I've heard that one Timesert fix has more than 90K miles on it and its still holding.
I'm an accomplished mechanic so I ordered my own Timesert kit from an Ebay supplier (about $400). If your head is repairable the dealer will typically install the Timesert without removing the heads. If it's not repairable then the dealer will typically recommend a new head (lots of $$). The non-romeo heads generally are repairable. The romeo heads have an additional shoulder that requires a bigger reamer and a shoulder cut. The service tech told me these heads tend to be the ones replaced more often. I'll be tackling the installation on my 97 Expedition this weekend so I'll post a report after I'm done. But, if you're comfortable around and engine bay (and have a step ladder to work on an Expedition) you can probably fix this problem yourself.
One other thing to note is that the coil pack gets damaged when the plug blows outs. Typically, the tap that hold the coil in place breaks off. Since the coil itself still worked fine I epoxied the tab back on the first time this happened and its held just fine. If you're not into this kind of fix you'll have to buy a new coil pack (also expensive from the dealer - near $200)
If you have a mechanic repair your blow out then make sure they use the Timesert inserts for the repair. This will give you the greatest chance at longevity afterwards.
Thanks!
I am wondering if anyone can enlighten me about what I can expect the auto repair shop to charge for this and what is the most likely cause of this condition. The 'check engine soon' light came on and off for a day or so and now it is staying on. A couple of weeks ago I ran it out of gas and this problem started after that, so I am thinking it is a clogged fuel filter or clogged fuel injection system.
The car seems to otherwise be running really good and strong. There are no noises, smells or gauges pointing at anything else suspicious.
Deb
Main problems recently:
- engine stutter/miss (intermitent) between 40-60mph
- transmission fluid leak
- thumping/moaning/creaking (from rear) when backing out of driveway and going over speed bumps
- very low gas mileage (averaging 11 mpg even with 1/2 of miles on highway)
I recently had it serviced:
- for engine stutter/miss: technician couldn't replicate problem in test drive, but they tightened drive shaft linkage and the problem went away for a couple of weeks... now it's back.
- for transmission fluid leak: replaced gasket at torque converter and driveway leak went away, but now I can smell that sweet scent of tranmission fluid burning off again just a few weeks later.
- thumping/moaning/creaking from rear end: have not checked into it.
- low gas mileage: have not checked into it.
I have read many postings from this website about IGNITION COIL PACKS and REAR DIFFERENTIAL problems.
Do the symptoms I describe sound related to these types of problems?
Can low gas mileage be caused by these types of problems? Or should I expect 12 average mpg from a 9 year old large SUV?
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Engine studder/miss: Assuming you don't have the check engine light on and there are not codes showing on the ODBII port read out the missing is likely moisture inside one or more of the coil pack rubber boots or a faulty coil pack. Pull the coil packs and check for moisture inside the spark plug tube or the spark plug boot. A good indicator will be corrosion on the spark plug. Next, if you've never changed the plugs do that next. If it still misses buy a new coil pack and change the coil packs out one at a time with the new one to see if you can eliminate the problem. Try the #3 hole first. That one seems to be a problem area. Its also the most common blow out hole (these engines suffer from spark plug blow outs).
Transmission leak: Add some flourescent die to the transmission fluid and run the vehicle until the transmission oil temp is up to normal. Shine a black light around the tranny until you can identify where he leak is coming from. Then trace is back to the source.
Rear end noise: This one stumped two dealers around here. The problem for me ended up being the shock mounting bolts. Over time the holes get oval and the bushing ends develop play that only shows up when the rear end is articulating. The only way I found it was to put the vehicle up an a lift and with a couple of friends shook the rear suspension up and down as hard as we could. (btw - make sure your spare tire is tight in its mount. This also causes a clunking noise if its loose). Replace the lower shock mounting bolts with new ones. If you haven't changed the shocks in a while now would be a good time. Especially, if the lower shock bushing are shot.
Low gas mileage: This is probably directly related to the missing. The first culprit here would be the mass air sensor. But, if you don't have an engine check light on and no codes showing then this won't be the problem. Check the mileage after you solve the missing problem. Borrow someone's ODBII code reader and get a read out from your ODBII port just to make sure you don't have a problem with a sensor. (i.e. an oxygen sensor could be going bad).
Hope this helps.
Also, if I set the vent system to "floor", it disappears. On the higher level setting, it comes back. Sometimes it goes away, other times it does not. Is there some sort of a vent regulator behind the passenger side middle seat? If so, does anyone know what this is, if there is a TSB or is this just one of those weird items no one else has experienced?
The two units that are the culprits are about 1/2" thick, squarish in design and about the size of a pack of cigarettes (but a bit larger). They are held in by a few screws and a simple plug. As the previous poster noted, unplug one and see if the sound goes away.
I ordered replacements online, but you could probably get them from your local Ford store too. One of the actuators costs about $18, but the other was almost $40. Overall it was an easy repair considering I'd seen posters who said they paid $400 to get that fixed.
Good luck.
Thanks,
Jessica
I called a lot of Ford mechanics and finally may have found the solution. On a Warm Engine, (most Ford Service reps said Cold engine, wrong!) losen the spark plug 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
Then spray carb cleaner around the plug. It goes around the threads and breaks lose the carbon and crud build-up around the long shank of the plug.
I replaced my plugs using this procedure and everthing worked OK. You can hear the carb cleaner bubbling/sizzling, and the plugs came out fine. I used a magnet to pull them out of the head recess and had to wiggle a couple of plugs. Still a pain and knuckle busting job; but, didn't break any plugs.
Champain makes a one piece plug, the stock plugs appear to be a bonded two piece shank. They are expensive and may not be necessary with the above procedure with a stock plug.
If you have already stripped the threads, I understand Car Quest has a good kit with a hela-coil to replace the threads, if you can get the broken shank out of the head.
Woody
Thanks,
Scott
"6. Against my better judgment, I pulled the same fuse again while it was powered on."
rbronosky, "Axiom 6-CD Changer" #8, 15 Aug 2008 6:18 pm
Right - probably with the ignition on to auxiliary or whatever.
Mind you, I haven't tried this myself, it's just what someone has posted about around here.
Thanks for the help though
I had a part time whistle when I was driving at a minimum of 10Kmh... After a while I saw the mechanics and he said it was a vacuum problem. Ok up to know there is no link with your topics but there we are! I wanted to select the 4x4high and 4x4low and I was not able. I read your topic and from this one I check my fuses (2 fuses to check) So the mechanic saw the actuator on the right side.
So $143.00 Canadian for the piece and about 1Hour of labour.
Finally Thank you my friend and for the others look for it
Looking for quidance to replacing a crankshaft sensor on my 2005 Expedition, recent light service at dealer indicated i have a "wet" sensor and it should be replaced. Figure it should be a slam dunk job (a little oil on the o-ring and replace), but don't have a manual or any guide for replacement, any assistance/guidance is appreciated in advance.
Thanks!
Within a few days, it resets and registers full.
Happened only 3 times or so in past year, not sure if I should just ignore it or take it in for warranty. Probably a stuck float?
On last long trip, 400 miles, got close to 22 mpg. At least that's what the computer said, I didn't actually figure it out the old fashioned way.
What do I do to fix it??? Did you ever get your problem fixed. Some one PLEASE ADVISE if we can do it ourselve. Husband laid off of work and no $$$ to fix an expensive problem.
the cover was hitting the button that moves your seat ...........
HOPE THIS WILL HELP
1999 FORD EXPEDITION