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Infiniti G35 Care and Maintenance
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Comments
And did u guys get it? The dealership uses Sym-Tech.
It's a complete rip-off.
Every dealer offers it and it does nothing for you that you can't do yourself.
I have a friend with a black Acura TL who spent $1,000 on a similar package.
Several months later, a bird did it's business on his hood and he has a nasty haze mark there now.
Although still under warranty and even with this magic package he bought, he got nothing.
You're going to spend a lot of money to have some guy wax your car, which they're going to do anyway.
Do yourself a favor.
Buy your own products, do the work yourself, and save 90% of the $$$.
I bought the full Zaino kit.
I got the car home and then 'Dawn'ed it to strip the dealer's glaze.
I then clayed, washed, washed again and then... started to layer the different polishes and sealants.
Top it all off with a coat or 2 of wax, and you've got more protection than any $1,000 plan could ever give you.
Flip
Have you thought about going to a Synthetic oil?
Most people report jumps in MPG.
But, if you get a rock hit which is bad enough to cause damage through the 3M film, just think of how bad it would have been if the film wasn't there to begin with.
Thanks....
Congrats on the order, Tang.
The wait is an absolute killer. but it's Sooooooo worth it in the end!
Maybe realistically i can get about 10,000 miles on the brakes before they need replacement??
Expect at least twice that, even with stop & go driving.
There's no real driving interval, but feel free to have them check them during visits for oil changes.
I don't know why this is happening, but I feel like I am seeing more and more flecks of paint flick off, especially on the driver side door area.
My car G35 Coupe is RED and I want to keep it as red as possible. Should I get some touch up paint and try to dab a little bit of red back where I see white now?
I've heard about Zaino, but I don't know if that is the route to go for this situation.
Now my wife is buying a new car and I expect she will get a similar pitch.
Question is how other's feel about these care packages? Is there is real value in them long-term? Are are they actually a waste of money (as was suggested to me)? Is there any way to tell if the product was actually applied?
You're basically buying a coat of wax and a can of Scotchgaurd... and you're lucky if that's even applied.
It's one of the dealer's largest money makers.
Buy the complete Zaino kit for a little over $100- and do it yourself.
You'll know it was done right and the protection you get will far outlast the crap the dealer puts on.
Welcome to the party.
I've done a number of posts regarding the robustness (or lack thereof) of today's "green-friendly" paint, so won't repeat here. Old-school enamel didn't do this, plus which it was less prone to orange peel.
I just ordered my G35X. I will be picking it up this weekend, and i just have a few questions.
1. I spoke to the sales rep and he told me that the car currently has regular engine oil, and that synthetic is not recommended because the car's engine is made of aluminum and it needs to run cooler. and synthetics tend to make the engins run hotter. is this true? should i continue to use conventional engine oil compared to changing it to syntetic?
2. I've read all over the internet, and people seem to be telling me different things about how to "break-in" a new car. Some say do not pass 3000-4000rpm, some say drive it rough, some say drive it as you would. Can someone give me some ideas on what's the best? and possibly their own expriences?
3. This is kind of off the second question, but which bran of oil is the best?
Thanks guys. This is my first financed car, and i'm planning on having it for a very long time, and i want to make sure everything's in check.
2. I've read all over the internet, and people seem to be telling me different things about how to "break-in" a new car. Some say do not pass 3000-4000rpm, some say drive it rough, some say drive it as you would. Can someone give me some ideas on what's the best? and possibly their own expriences?
Uh-Oh....I can hear a can of worms being opened!
#1 - I have not heard of this but I follow the belief that synthetic oil should not be used for the first 12-15K.
#2 - Don't beat on it yet. Break it in gently.
This is very hard to do in the G, as it wants to GO!
Try your best to keep it below 4,000 RPMs, vary RPMs on the highway, and avoid hard starts and stops for the first 1,200 miles.
Then, have fun.
Now... prepare for the millions who all have their own opinions!
Just wondering where everybody gets their oil changed. I want the best oil and filter for my car... but don't know if i can afford going to the dealer every time.
i'm not so good with machanics... so i don't think changing it myself is an option. are those retail places depenable? like midas and such? thanks!
See if your dealer has anything like that. It is worth it in the long run.
I guess the dealer hopes to get you in regularly so they can try to find other things that need to be done to the car. Also, are the oil changes free only if you get other services done at the dealer? For example, do you have to have one of those expensive 40K checkups done?
At VW, the 40K checkup included stuff like "Check door hinges, turn signals, and trunk operation..." It was a laundry list of stuff you could easily do yourself, but they charged $400 for it. The only true maintenance they were doing was an oil and filter change...the rest was (IMHO) fluff (at least at the dealer we went to).
Anyway, congrats on the car and the oil change deal. I hope it continues to be the good deal it sounds like.
I have had some extra work done, but only what is in the manual, not the "we will check your doorknobs for adjustment special".
They change the oil and filter, and do a hand wash of the car that is probably worth $10 by itself.
I have had the car for a little over two years now and nothing has gone wrong with it. If you are in a winter state, be careful about winter tires. The summer specials that come with he car turn it into a hockey puck when there is snow and ice on the ground. (See discussions in the tire forum).
$60- seems a little high in comparison.
I thought $45- was high... but a guy who drops $40k on a car can't complain about the $45- oil change, I guess.
I plan on doing most of them myself... but I had to go in for the moonroof TSB anyway, so I figured..what the heck.
With the new keyfobs out now, I may end up there again for oil change #2.
Z
I could get one Starbucks Latte each way, and it'd be almost like they were free! :P
Other things include an inspection of brakes, driveshafts & boots, propeller shaft, pilot bearing & universal joints, exhaust, steering & suspension.
These inspections are just fluff and basically, are a complete ripoff.
I'd bet my right --- that your propeller shaft was never inspected. LOL
If your oil change is normally $42, that made your tire rotation $68-.
Ouch is right!
I have about 600 miles on my G35x auto but haven't driven in the M mode. Should one be driving in the M mode now and then during the first so many miles??
You should go back there and tell them to read the manual.
See below for the manual info.
As for M mode, feel free to use it.
When the car is new, it has a mind of it's own.
Keeping it below 4,000 RPMs and avoiding quick starts is very tough.
M mode gives you much more control of your RPM limitations.
Just be sure to avoid the constant temptation to floor it.
BREAK-IN SCHEDULE
CAUTION
During the first 1,200 miles (2,000 km),
follow these recommendations to obtain
maximum engine performance and ensure
the future reliability and economy of your
new vehicle.
Failure to follow these recommendations
may result in shortened engine life and reduced
engine performance.
O Avoid driving for long periods at constant
speed, either fast or slow. Do
not run the engine over 4,000 rpm.
O Do not accelerate at full throttle in any
gear.
O Avoid quick starts.
O Avoid hard braking as much as possible.
Again, I'm just curious and plan to follow the break-in period, which incidentally is twice as long as my wife's new '08 v6 Accord :mad:
kc
Not folloing the break-in schedule will do little in the short term, and some die hards swear by driving it hard in the beginning, but long term is where this comes into play.
People with engine trouble 75-90K down the road, I always wonder if they broke the car in correctly.
Point is, even a mechanic wouldn't know if inproper break-in was the cause.
If you're like me and plan on long term ownership, then following the suggestion of proper break-in is the only way to go.
But at 1,200... all hell breaks loose! :P
When you buy your car, it should certainly have less than 20 miles on it.
The factory tests can be up to 10 miles, but are usually no more than 5 or 6.
The other few miles come from transferring the cars from transports and around the dealer lots.
My car came with 10.5 miles on it.
Common sense will tell you if the car has been test driven before you buy.
I don't know about other dealerships, but my test drive lasted almost 45 minutes and we drove that car EXTREMELY hard. I just followed the instructions of the salesman, and was amazed at the limits he allowed me to go to.
Fun test drive, but there's no way in heck I wanted to buy that one when we were done!
Just a theory, but in another board a few years ago I put this idea forward and someone came back to say that they had developed an oil leak a few months after starting to use synthetic oil.
In reality, synthetic oil is only really helpful above 250 deg F (oil temp) or below zero. Otherwise, in my opinion, it's a lot like filling your tires with nitrogen -- makes you feel good & makes more money for someone.
That said, I've been running Mobil 1 in my car for years & it has 123K miles on the engine.
Again, thanks for solid feedback!
Anyways, I can't make out the first name of the "quality assurance engineer" who tested my car, but his last name is Honda. Kinda funny eh? My car had 5 miles from the factory according to the note. There was also a little brochure about the navi system, just showing the coverage area and lane guidance. My '08 has Map Version 8.0 software FYI.
Lastly, my experience during the test drive was exactly the same. I too was surprised at how much they let you do, even ask you to do, during the test drive. When the salesman was demoing the paddle shifter he said "take it to the redline - I want you to hit the rev limiter" or something very close to that He was showing that in DS mode the car will not shift for you. Man, some demo! And this on a car with like 25 miles on it. I was a good boy and did not hit the rev limiter but after the test drive I plopped my deposit down and said (to myself) "good thing I am not buying that car!"
kc
Are there any known issues pertaining to what I am seeing or the front brakes in general?
I purchased the car from a dealer in August - it has 29k miles. Should brakes be something I am expecting about now?
Thanks for any posts!
Are you kidding?!?
Enlightenment
I'm just amazed at how people go and buy cars with little to no research first.
The 05 G35x is absolutely PLAGUED with brake issues and is an extremely well known issue.
I wish you stopped by here in July before buying in August... many would have given you the heads up.
When the cars were under warranty, the dealer was pretty good about fixing these issues.
Once out of warranty, especially with a used car, it's highly unlikely they'll do much for you.
With 27,000 miles, the car should still be under warranty.
Make sure they know that you are well aware of the known brake issues and you want this corrected for FREE.
Also explain that you have very little miles added since purchasing.
If worded correctly, you can put them on the spot for selling you a car with unsafe, unfit brakes.
If they'll willing to work with you, this brake job may be free, or at least discounted.
I'd be looking for all new parts for the next brake job though... the factory setup stinks.
My #1 concern before buying the 07 was brakes.
#2 was Bluetooth, as the pre-07 models had many complaining owners in that dept as well.
I did a lot of research and asking around before I took the plunge.
Go back and complain.
Be polite and state your case.
This car is new to you, has very little miles since you bought it and the brakes are gone.
Use words like "unsafe", "warranty", and "known issue" while explaining that this should have been caught during their pre-sale safety inspection.
They should help you.
Good luck and keep us posted.
I don't think you get the extended warranty on brakes on '05. It's only for '03 and '04.
I don't have any major brake issues w/ my '05. I just needed to have it resurfaced once when I traded it in w/ around 17K miles.
The 05 brakes are a real issue.
There were talks of a class action law suit for this but I can no longer find the threads on it, or any other info.
I have no idea how it turned out, or if it ever went anywhere.
Does Infiniti care which one you choose? Does it affect your lease/warranty if you chose to do schedule 2 instead of schedule 1?
I just want to make sure I don't get screwed at the end of my lease at 30k miles so if anybody has info on this I would appreciate it.
Thanks
I have never heard of this before. Is this a real problem? What's the impact of such a problem and do I need to spend all this money at the dealer or do I have a more economical solution available to me that I dont know of? I just replaced my tires btw...
These are heavy rubber bushings through which a rod is threaded. Like all rubber suspension parts, the rubber deteriorates and wears over time, eventually developing cracks or tearing completely.