Could find no reference to this title in the very bewildering index of my Silverado/Sierra Service Manual set. However, Pg. 8-183 indicates this slot is designated for a "Secondary Air Injection Reaction Pump". Further, a schematic on Pg. 8-52 states this circuit is "not used". If you actually have a 30A. fuse in this slot it may be in error. My truck, with all bells and whistles, does not. Someone else may be able to offer more.
I have a Yukon with the 5.3 engine and I want to clean the throttle body intake with Seafoam Deep Creep spray cleaner.
I loosened the hose clamp, but couldn't get the intake pulled back from the throttle body. Any advice on how I can get to the intake to clean it would be appreciated.
After you loosen the hose clamp - you also must take a large flat screw driver and pop a plastic fastener loose. It attaches the air duct to a plastic clamp that is attached to the upper radiator hose. Once you work this free you should be able to pull the air duct out of the way enough to clean the throttle body.
Are you sure the cleaner you are using is the right stuff?
Also be careful - there are some sharp edges in the throttle body.
I thought I read that AIR was intended to meet California emissions, possibly ULEV specifically. But that standard is met through other means and not even CA models have an AIR system.
Thanks for all the response! Makes total sense. Its wired for a fuse, but no fuse in there.Just didnt know if it was a miraculous power booster circuit or something (heehee) Thanks again.
Thanks for the advice, Bill. Yes, Seafoam is the cleaner that several folks here and also at NAPA auto parts recommended over the regular spray carb cleaners. It foams up and clings to parts instead of just running off like regular liquid spray.
Okay I have a 1500 4x4 extended cab Z71 with 50,000 miles, I live in Ohio, mainly Highway travel, how ever I do want to stay on the road! I'm not happy with the firestone tires that came with the truck any suggestions?
If its snow we're talkin'..I'd suggest BFG All Terrain T/A's. I plow snow, and get great traction. They have a 3 ply sidewall, so carry a lot of weight, like a 6,000lb salt spreader really well (I have a 2500HD, by the way). If you dont carry weight, Continental makes a similar tire, but only 2 ply sidewall, which should be plenty for a 1500. Its a neat tread pattern, which clears ice very well. Just go with something deep lug, tall, and narrow and you should be fine.
Go to tirerack.com and check the reviews. I bought the Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo's for my 2000 Rado 4x4. They are an excellent tire. Was glad to get rid of the standard Firestones. They were terrible. The Revo's road noise isn't bad either. Just remember the bigger lug on the tire the more road noise. The Revo's are very good wet/dry or snow. Just my 2 cents.
I'd say, very minimal compared to other tires Ive had in the past. Its the first thing I noticed when I got them, how quiet they were for a pretty luggy tire. Its a very flexible tread pattern, which I think helps. Traction is a HUGE concern to me, and could care less about road noise, so maybe not the best person to ask, but I think they're comparable to what came on the truck (noise-wise that is), which were junk road tires...not even good in the rain!!
You might also want to check out the Yokohama Geolander AT tires.
I have had BFG's, Pirelli Scorpions and the Yokohama's on my trucks in the last 3 years. I would reccomend the Yokohama's over the other two. The BFG's were a little squirly in the rain and wore faster the the Yoko's.
I have had my Yoko's in dirt, snow, ice and rain and absolutely love them.
BFG seems to be in my price range, $575.00 installed including stems, warranty etc.. But I will check out the Yoko's Thanks all, I will check them out !
The engine piston slap noise started around 12K miles, the dealer replaced lifters, put an additive in the oil etc. nothing helped. I have had the oil analyzed every 8K miles it shows high iron and copper increasing. Besides being imbarassing, I don't feel the 100,000 mile guarantee on the entire is quite enough on a $36,000 vehicle so I went to the lemon law people and have a hearing in Phila. in April. We will see what happends. As much as I love the truck and have been driving Chevs since my first new vehicle in 62'I will find it hard to buy another Chev.as they were not up front with this problem. More info concerning this problem with the engines can be found on Pistonslap.com. I wonder if the 04's are fixed?
I have a 2000 2500 Silverado with the trailer package and heavy duty option. I have purchased a travel trailer and am wondering if I need to put a electric brake controller on the truck or if the trailer plug that came with the truck provide the electric signal to actuate the brakes?
I have the same truck in 2wd. Yes you have to install a brake controller. The harness supplied by GM makes it very simple. Just follow the color coding for the controller wire hookup supplied by the mfg. Make sure the fuse is in place under the hood for trailer.
In gonna chime in to the earlier tire question. I changed out Wranglers to Yokos and absolutely think their great. Alot of tire hitting the road and some road noise, but so far very dependable in most types of weather...except ice of course.
Thank you all for the tire imput Well I looked alot I went with BFG All terrains, I believe its the same road noise as my Firestones but I actually stay on the road. 265 75 R16 Installed with tax , road hazard, life rotate , balance etc was $604.00 USD. I got 50,000 miles out of those white knuckle Firestones, NEVER again. I also found a Tire store that will buy your factory tires off your new truck and up grade you. I do not know how much depends on the tire, Just a heads up.
Glad to hear you went with them...I think you'll like them. Some last longer long-term, but dont bite like these do. I really wasnt joking when I say I drive in extreme conditions, but didnt want to sound cocky. Most of my miles on that truck are with 6000 lbs. in the sander (back), so I liked the 3 ply sidewall idea (less squatting), and a 1000 lb plow on the front. I use it to plow 10"-25" of snow at a wack, through some "offroad" driveways in the middle of the night in rural Maine, sometimes -20f below on the thermometer. Money was no object...my only concern was traction! I have about 2,000 winter miles on them, and no complaints. The lack of side slide is incredible on ice, as well as the way they quickly clear out ice/snow from the tread. Its a flexible tread...thats why...helps big-time on ice too. Havent driven with them in the rain, but have in slush. That past comment about them being "squirly" suprises me, and leads me to believe they were either bald, or not BFG A/Ts, maybe land terrains or something.
The tires were definately BFG A/T's I would say that your truck with the sheer weight of sand, spreader and plough will definately make things more stable.
I live in the mountains here in Southern Cal. I have to drive down the hill every day to commute to work. So i get to drive the gamut of road conditions, including ICE. When I had BFG's on my 97 GMC Sierra 1/2 ton, these tires were scary on the So Cal wet pavement. I an not one of those kind of people that like to drive a truck for looks, I use it. Every opportunity I get I either go play in the snow, desert or anywhere else off of the beathen path. Comparing the BFG's to what I am currently running, I will never go back. Especially after seeing a 10 inch cut in the sidewall from minor rock crawling hold up for a 80+ mile trip home.
Just curious. Given your vocation, when it snows there does it seem like money falling out of the sky?
BFG All-Terrain T/A's: Very happy with mine despite minor problems. Only one bad incident to report, and that on another truck, a '76' F250. Lost control in a driving rain in a panic stop on the interstate. I'm more inclined to blame the technology of the era: Drum brakes, non-ABS, faulty adjustment. The Silverado's with 23K have performed very well in similar conditions to gator's, except less snow. We live in close proximity. No squirlyness to report. Also to consider is the presumed improvement of the current version of the T/As (the KO) over the old. The '76' has the old, the Silverado the KO. If you compare them side by side, the difference is clearly apparent: The KO has deeper ribs at the outer diameter of the sidewall ( better traction in deep snow, sand, or mud) and more sipes across the tread ( better braking on wet pavement). Gator, you don't indicate which version was on your '97'. But knowing you pretty much know your stuff I'll be checking out the Yokohamas at the next opportunity.
BFG All-Terrain T/A's Okay 2000 miles with them now, still happy. Handle great compared to those Firestone Wilderness,. Regarding the YOKO's I still have not seen them in person, Is the price around the BFG's ? If so maybe next time. But anyway if anyone does not like the way their 1500 4X4 ext cab handles, get rid of the firestones and go with a heavier side wall ! It will bring tears to your eyes !!!
Can anyone tell me what the faint fan sound coming from my dash is? It sounds like it is located behind my radio. It seems to be on whether the radio is on or not. Just curious.
That noise you hear is indeed a little fan that is mounted to the back of your radio to keep it cool. The radio has a habit of getting hot especially at night when it is lit up internally with the headlights. Thats why it goes on and off by itself.It usually is on at night for me.
Hi I have a 1989 2500 with about 240,000 miles. I am starting to hear squeaking from the steering wheel when I am turning it. Does anybody know where and how to grease what is squeaking?
Hi guys, I have lurked this board several times over the years but needed to post about some issues with my 01 4WD Z71 EXT cab with a 5.3L
Tires I got about 45K out of my Wilderness. I changed 6K miles ago and opted for the Michelin LTX M/S. Look great, ride nice (a little stiffer than the Firestones), quiet, and wear great. I did notice in rain they blow more water out the wheel well.
Problems About 3 months ago my fuel guage started swinging back and forth between E and F after a fill up, and if I come to a stop at a light. I checked and the sending unit can be changed alone ($125) or with the pump assembly ($350)should I just change the sending unit and hope that fixes it or change both? If you change the send unit and it does not fix it you have to buy the pump/sending unit together and canot buy the pump assy separate.
Next, my mileage has dropped lately. I ran fuel injector cleaner (STP) through it and no help. I was getting 15-16 around town, 18-20 on the highway. Last tank (rural highway driving) I only got 13. In the past when I pull my camper (4,000lbs) I got 12.5 and I am only getting 1mpg more than that unladden. Any ideas?
I too have noticed a drop in gas mileage in both my wife's 1997 Saturn (always got around 30 mpg, all of a sudden getting 24) and in my 2001 Silverado (always got around 17, all of a sudden getting 14). I also ran some fuel injector cleaner (STP) thru them both. It didn't increase my gas mileage back to normal. What gas do you use? I've always used 89 octane from Union 76. Might try Chevron if this keeps up. -David
PeteZ71 & DCH0300: I have found that gas formulation for Northern climates is changed for Winter Months. Each Fall my milage goes from about 20MPG to about 17MPG until Spring when it returns to the higher number. This has happened each year since 1999 with my 2K Sierra, 5.3, short bed, regular cab, 4WD.
I own a 2003 1500HD with the 6.0L and the 3.73 rearend with quadrasteer. What type of mileage should I expect? I currently get 8-9 in town and 11-12 on hwy. Is there a computer chip or something that will improve the mileage. I'm somewhat disapointed in this result after you hear of tahoes etc. getting 17-19 mpg. on hwy. Thanks for any responses.
yes you still need a brake controler. GM has a nice adapter plug (posibly came with the vehicle, available at the dealer) makes installation very easy. step 1: attach 4 wires from adapter plug to 4 wires on brake controller step 2: plug adapter into wiring harnes to the left of the brake pedal.
no drilling, no wires to run all over the truck good luck
We are wanting to purchase a 2004 Silverado extended-cab, two-wheel drive truck. The vehicle we drove had excessive noise at speeds 60-64. At 70-73 the vehicle was perfectly quiet.
I drove four additonal vehicles similar to the first one I drove. All of them had the same problem.
My hod-roding days are over so I do not want the extra noise. Have any of you experienced this problem with your Silverados? I read the message board posts for a ways back and did not see any reference to this problem.
I think it's the same all over for the colder climate states. Only difference in N.Y. now is they banned MTBE which was used to oxygenate the gas and instead use 10% ethenol. MTBE is polluting all the drinking water wells from the underground tanks leaking an causing havoc with homeowners effected. MTBE causes cancer and mixes easily with water. I sure wouldn't want a cup of it. Of course the gas manf's are getting a $2 billion bail out from the government to help ease costs of the transistion from MTBE to ethenol. Talk about fleecing the taxpayers, has anyone see the price of gas DROP lately ??NOT!
If you're curious, we have a topic over on the News & Views board where folks report their local gas prices. Interesting to see the variations across the country. Here's the link:
New to this forum -- looking for info about a cooling leak on my 97 vortec 5.7. Leak is around the head gaskets. My mechanic said the problem was common to the vortec engine. This true? He thought GM was aware of the problem and had considered a recall to fix. Any comments or where to look appreciated.
... you might want to scan the topics on the Maintenance & Repair Message Board. More than a few auto techs are active on that board and posting your question in the following topic:
The leak you mention is pretty well known. The leak is usually from where the intake manifold and the head meet. The coolant passage is leaking. On the 97 vortec motors, they use a low torque intake gasket. It is somekind of ceramic polycarbonate with rubber inlaid around all of the passages. The ceramic fails over time and thus your leak. Rumors are that some of the factory installers torqued the intake manifold too tight. The intake on this motor is torqued in inch lbs versus the normal ft lbs.
Comments
Mike
-David
I loosened the hose clamp, but couldn't get the intake pulled back from the throttle body. Any advice on how I can get to the intake to clean it would be appreciated.
Are you sure the cleaner you are using is the right stuff?
Also be careful - there are some sharp edges in the throttle body.
Thanks again!
I'm not happy with the firestone tires that came with the truck any suggestions?
Yokohama Geolander AT tires.
I have had BFG's, Pirelli Scorpions and the Yokohama's on my trucks in the last 3 years.
I would reccomend the Yokohama's over the other two. The BFG's were a little squirly in the rain and wore faster the the Yoko's.
I have had my Yoko's in dirt, snow, ice and rain and absolutely love them.
But I will check out the Yoko's
Thanks all, I will check them out !
Ray T.
Well I looked alot I went with BFG All terrains, I believe its the same road noise as my Firestones but I actually stay on the road.
265 75 R16 Installed with tax , road hazard, life rotate , balance etc was $604.00 USD.
I got 50,000 miles out of those white knuckle Firestones, NEVER again. I also found a Tire store that will buy your factory tires off your new truck and up grade you. I do not know how much depends on the tire, Just a heads up.
The tires were definately BFG A/T's
I would say that your truck with the sheer weight of sand, spreader and plough will definately make things more stable.
I live in the mountains here in Southern Cal.
I have to drive down the hill every day to commute to work. So i get to drive the gamut of road conditions, including ICE. When I had BFG's on my 97 GMC Sierra 1/2 ton, these tires were scary on the So Cal wet pavement. I an not one of those kind of people that like to drive a truck for looks, I use it. Every opportunity I get I either go play in the snow, desert or anywhere else off of the beathen path. Comparing the BFG's to what I am currently running, I will never go back.
Especially after seeing a 10 inch cut in the sidewall from minor rock crawling hold up for a 80+ mile trip home.
BFG All-Terrain T/A's: Very happy with mine despite minor problems. Only one bad incident to report, and that on another truck, a '76' F250. Lost control in a driving rain in a panic stop on the interstate. I'm more inclined to blame the technology of the era: Drum brakes, non-ABS, faulty adjustment. The Silverado's with 23K have performed very well in similar conditions to gator's, except less snow. We live in close proximity. No squirlyness to report.
Also to consider is the presumed improvement of the current version of the T/As (the KO) over the old. The '76' has the old, the Silverado the KO. If you compare them side by side, the difference is clearly apparent: The KO has deeper ribs at the outer diameter of the sidewall ( better traction in deep snow, sand, or mud) and more sipes across the tread ( better braking on wet pavement). Gator, you don't indicate which version was on your '97'. But knowing you pretty much know your stuff I'll be checking out the Yokohamas at the next opportunity.
-David
Okay 2000 miles with them now, still happy.
Handle great compared to those Firestone Wilderness,.
Regarding the YOKO's I still have not seen them in person, Is the price around the BFG's ? If so maybe next time. But anyway if anyone does not like the way their 1500 4X4 ext cab handles, get rid of the firestones and go with a heavier side wall ! It will bring tears to your eyes !!!
I am starting to hear squeaking from the steering
wheel when I am turning it. Does anybody know where and how to grease what is squeaking?
Thanks in advanced,
Mark
Tires
I got about 45K out of my Wilderness. I changed 6K miles ago and opted for the Michelin LTX M/S. Look great, ride nice (a little stiffer than the Firestones), quiet, and wear great. I did notice in rain they blow more water out the wheel well.
Problems
About 3 months ago my fuel guage started swinging back and forth between E and F after a fill up, and if I come to a stop at a light. I checked and the sending unit can be changed alone ($125) or with the pump assembly ($350)should I just change the sending unit and hope that fixes it or change both? If you change the send unit and it does not fix it you have to buy the pump/sending unit together and canot buy the pump assy separate.
Next, my mileage has dropped lately. I ran fuel injector cleaner (STP) through it and no help. I was getting 15-16 around town, 18-20 on the highway. Last tank (rural highway driving) I only got 13. In the past when I pull my camper (4,000lbs) I got 12.5 and I am only getting 1mpg more than that unladden. Any ideas?
-David
Ed
Thanks for any responses.
step 1: attach 4 wires from adapter plug to 4 wires on brake controller
step 2: plug adapter into wiring harnes to the left of the brake pedal.
no drilling, no wires to run all over the truck
good luck
extended-cab, two-wheel drive truck. The vehicle
we drove had excessive noise at speeds 60-64.
At 70-73 the vehicle was perfectly quiet.
I drove four additonal vehicles similar to the first one I drove. All of them had the same
problem.
My hod-roding days are over so I do not want the
extra noise. Have any of you experienced this
problem with your Silverados? I read the message
board posts for a ways back and did not see any
reference to this problem.
Thanks for information.
Orville
Ray T.
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Rumors are that some of the factory installers torqued the intake manifold too tight.
The intake on this motor is torqued in inch lbs versus the normal ft lbs.