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Comments
I was willing to pay the premium to establish a good relationship with Dealer. And it seems that it does not help one bit. I regret buying the car from them. The salesman did not go over anything with me at the end. Once I bought it he washed and handed me the key. Much different than when Dad bought Honda. They guy showed us how to use every button and knob! I am disgusted with their service and customer interaction. Thank God the car is ok.
Also, my dealer says to bring them the Subaru evaluation and they give you the first oil change free. I can just imagine what they want the evaluation!
Bitman where in Northern CA are you? I am in W.C. May need to go to your dealer!
The owner of the body shop, Matt, recently purchased a WRX wagon and was gushing with praise for the vehicle. He's owned a NSX as well as Porsches and was quick to say that the WRX wagon was just as fun to drive. He noted the stiff chassis and quick steering.
I'm driving an Isuzu Trooper while my Forester gets worked on. Man, what a boat of a vehicle! The spaciousness is nice, but I miss the nimble handling of my vehicle.
Ken
Oh no, incoming!
..Mike
I'm putting mine in the body shop as soon as I get the suspension bits I've been waiting on. The idea is to set the ride height where I want it and drive it there on R compounds, then have them relieve the rear fenders so that they don't rub. Yep, I'm a nut. :-D
-Colin
-mike
Thanks!
Patti
Colin: we all saw that coming! Though I'll admit every Trooper owner I've met seems to be happy with it.
That's it, hutch. No experience. ;-)
-juice
OT question for you on the Trooper. I noticed that when I turned on TOD, the steering wheel seemed to firm up a bit. I thought that this was due to some of the torque being transfered forward. Is this similar to what you experience? What's the gas milage penatly for leaving TOD on?
Also, I noticed that with TOD on, the graphic display always showed some torque going to the front wheels (the bottom 1/3 lights on the front tires). The manual seems to indicate that the default is 0% to the fronts. What's going on?
It's kind of cool to be able to try out a completely different vehicle. I've gotta learn to take those corners slowly. ;-)
Ken
-mike
I am the one that needs the explanation. I have no idea what a carting tax is. I had the master key made. I am in Bay Area of CA. I think it is absurd!
Juice, this is a main Subaru Dealer. They are the only ones near by. I ended up calling the guy in service and he told wife to back. He took a look and ordered the part. I think they could tell I was getting annoyed! The salesman would not sell me the car any cheaper and gave me a hard time. So now anything that goes wrong or malfunctions I will make a fuss. It is only fair I suppose.
Patti let me know what you find. Thanks
There is the flag. What diversity we got going here!
bit
The Dealer is called Diablo Mazda/Subaru in Walnut Creek!!!
MY WHEELS CAME IN! And they look mahhhhhvelous! Wish I could show 'em off in the photo gallery, but I don't have a digicam. Just go to http://www.americanracing.com & find the type 335 "Crossfire" wheels, and picture them on a red 97 OBW. Worth the wait!
Cheers!
Paul
i recently had my timing belt changed along with the serpentine belts, thermostat, water pump, and other small stuff. i was assuming that with the belt changes my car would idle a little more smooth, it's not, it still idles pretty rough. my guess would be spark plugs. if so what do i change with it? is this a fairly easy thing to do on my own. ( i have a 96 legacy 2.2L)
seamus: I use Bosch Platinum plugs, the regular ones (they are about $1.80 each). Depending on your engine, you may need to remove the intake and windshield washer container to access the plugs.
Most ratchet sets come with a spark plug tool, but they can be bought separately. Careful not to over-torque it, and you could even use some anti-sieze compound on the threads before putting them in.
-juice
Leo
-mike
Tires are rotated to extend the treadlife. For example, your front tires will tend to wear faster than your rear tires (assuming they're all the same brand) due to the fact that the front tires turn. All tires, regardless of the drivetrain configuration (AWD, FWD, RWD)of the vehicle, will benefit from rotation.
With AWD, there's one other caveat -- tire diameter. Since AWD vehicles often have automatic systems that detect slippage, it makes sense to try and keep even wear between all four tires. Imagine an extreme case if your front tires were severely worn while the rears were brand new. The difference in diameter may lead the AWD system to think the front tires were spinning and continuously send power to the rear tires. In this example, you could place increased wear and tear on the drivetrain.
Ken
The L carries 205/70R15s. The S actualy has 215/60R16, not 235s. Those would rub.
You can get tire prices from TireRack.com. They are not particularly expensive - $60 to $80 each for many of them.
-juice
Thank you all for the info regarding tires. Just inquiring to get a feel what additional maintenence is need for AWD Subarus since I never owned one. An additional advice on maintence regarding AWD Subarus that I need to know? ie differential fluid change interviews, etc?
Thanks,
Leo
-juice
I looked at the receipt for the key and there is a charge labeled as Ign. charge for 4.95. The total for a key that was made for me is 21.95. Anyone know what that charge is. It really bothers me to think that the dealer is taking advantage of me. Can anyone explain? Thanks!
bit
I just called Carlsen Subaru in Redwood City. They charge 11 dollars for cutting a master key. I asked about the ign. charge and he said he had no idea what that was. He charges 11 and I paid 22. Gees that is 100% increase. If this is what they do with cutting a key I can imagine what they will do with other service. I am really upset. When wife goes there Thursday to have that woodgrain replaced she will talk to the guy who cut the key. It is so sad that they do that! A bit upsetting.
However, I looked at Carlsen's web page and their Subies are priced very high. Perhaps slightly higher than the dealer in Walnut Creek. I presume it is just because it is in the Bay Area!
When Rotating tires on Subies, do you guys criss cross them. Lft rear becomes right front???? Or do you just do f-r r-f on same side? Just curious. Rotate every 6K miles or so? Thanks!
My web site is down because homepage.com went out of business, but I'm trying to get my photos up to Photopoint. It's slow and tedious, though.
-juice
bit
bit
(hee hee, isn't my flag cool?)
Rgds
Jack
I realize what you are saying. When I wanted to buy my car I looked in the yellow pages and all I found was the dealer in Walnut Creek. I just found that there is a Dealer in Oakland. Someone mentioned it in a post a while back. It is too bad I only found these posts after I bought my car and not before. But I look at it as a learning experience. Afterall it is the first new car I buy. I will be a lot smarter when I get the next one. Maybe in 4 years I will look to get a new one. Thanks for the advice Bitman.
Folks, how do you calculate depreciation on your Subies? I am wondering what my outback will be worth in 2005, when I am sure I will want the new one. Any ideas?
second question on the S model regarding rear disc brakes. how much better are they than the rear drum brakes in the L trim?
Leo
Leo: the L has an open rear diffy, while the S has a viscous limited-slip diffy. If one rear wheel slips, the diffy locks and send the power to the other wheel with traction. The S will have better traction in situations where one rear wheel has no grip (ice, for example).
Having said that, my L performs just fine in snow even withouth it.
Disc brakes are more linear and resist fade better than drums. Even though the fronts do the bulk of the work, since weight transfers forward during braking, the rear discs helped the S obtain the best stopping distances ever for a small SUV by C&D. I'm sure the 60 series tires also help.
If you can afford it, spring for the S. I have the L, but sometimes I wish I had the S for all the extras (especially the heated seats).
-juice
I have the small bottle of Subaru paint.
Please advise on best methods to do a good job?
Is the paint clear coat?
What type of Paint thinner to use? (paint in bottle seems thick)
Best method for prep?
What to use to remove wax?
Other suggestions?
Thanks
Russ
Patti
1. Check all tire pressures to make sure they are even
2. Use a piece of string to measure the actual diameter as close to center as you can. Do all four tires and you'll see if which, if not all you need to change.
Oh, how techie of me, huh?
Patti
Dennis
What do you mean by your post saying the dealer will be calling me? Also, do you work for Subaru Patti? Sometimes it seems you do. Thanks.
-mike
Jason
-mike
Rotation: I rotate every spring, front to rear. Since I only put about 10k miles/year & have 2 sets of tires, seems to work well. My snows are directional, so they have to stay on the same side of the car. Just to be consistent, I do the summer tires the same way.
Cheers!
Paul
Russ: I just clean with my regular car wash detergent, dry thoroughly, and apply straight out of the bottle, nice and steady.
Most of the paints are metallic. To get a new clear coat on, you'd really have to repaint the entire panel.
-juice
P.S.- Patti, could you convince SOA to pay for the repairs? I don't really have any money right now, but someday I will and i will buy many subarus with it. Tell them it would be a great investment in today's impoverished students Just kidding, but i do want to once again let you know how awesome you are and we all appreciate you!
-mike
Left, pressure plate. Right, clutch disc.
See the middle of the pressure plate? There's the fingers. Basically this is the equivalent of a spring going flat.
-Colin
snizave, on a 91 Legacy (and perhaps your 92), there are two CV boots on the right transaxle. The incremental cost of replacing both over just one was marginal so I replaced both (slightly more for 2 boots + transaxle, labor similar). I'd inspect the other boots and replace them if they're marginal (if you're keeping the car for a while).
BTW is your 92 FWD or AWD? My 91 was a FWD.
Those rates are reasonable for Washington, DC and a bargain if a dealer's doing the work.
Welcome to the forum and thanks for expressing appreciation for the fine folks here.
..Mike
..Mike