Chevy Malibu Maxx

pao · February 2005

Maxx LT fully loaded less engine heater and 6 disc CD player.....17.5k on the car now....routine maintenance, oil changes very 3k, change the wipers....havent rotated the tires so bad there..but the OEM bridgestones have shown little wear at all.. only minor noticeable wear on the front..none on the back..mostly highway miles....up and down east coast I-95 and I-85..still averaging in the high 20's on the road...30 on a good day......

I know you see more complaints on the board here than praise, however that is to be expected...no problems on this Maxx at all with a build date of 2/17/04...only thing I havent had done is the TSB for the rear shades...I just leave them open and seldom are the rear seats used for people...I have had no PCM reflashes done...and the car is running so smooth...the acceleration is remarkable for this car and the long drive comfort is excellent...for the price out the door I paid.....an excellent value after one year of ownership..

csandste · February 2005

Does your oil life computer show that's necessary? I'm a constant poster to bobistheoilguy and so spend a lot of time thinking about oil. I got a great UOA using 10w30 SuperTech oil on a 4000 mile sequence and the 2 liter Elantra was probably a lot tougher on the oil than that big 3.5 liter six. I later switched to 5w30 Pennzoil and was so impressed that I decided to keep that weight in for nine months a year rather than six months (Hyundai calls for thicker oil than GM).

Most 5w30 will shear down to a mid twenty weight if you push it to 4000 miles but I don't think it's that big a problem. Plus some of those new SM oils like Conoco/Phillips and Exxon/Mobil are actually selling group III oils for a buck and a half a quart. If Pennzoil is still group II+ it's an awfully good oil anyway.

I plan to pay attention to my oil life indicator which will probably indicate a 5000 oil change interval in mixed driving. I plan on driving the oil down to at least 10% oil life remaining.

I've only gone back about six months in the Maxx boards. Has there been any discussion here or anywhere that the Chevy indicator (which seems pretty sophisticated) isn't giving good data?

csandste · February 2005

Don't want to get off the subject, but my Elantra shimmy was cured by Wal-Mart (gag)... I bought the $7 lifetime balance and rotation and they fixed my problems first time in. The typical tire place sees a lot more tire problems than the typical dealer, sometimes they can get it when the dealer doesn't. On the otherhand the guy who fixed my problem was one of the few really competant people working in our local Wal-Mart, maybe I just lucked out.

My Elantra was also an '01 and I remember lots of discussion on wheel shimmy at that time. The OEM Maxx tires seem to be a lot better than the Elantra's Michelin Energies IMHO, although the BB rating and rather low 380 treadwear rating (from memory) seem a bit mediocre to me. Low rolling resistance at the expense of traction probably gives it a slightly higer EPA mileage rating.

Hyundai was probably shooting for a name brand high end tire, although they'd probably done better if they'd stayed with Kumho/Hankook.

prdm · February 2005

<Has there been any discussion here or anywhere that the Chevy oil indicator (which seems pretty sophisticated) isn't giving good data?>

My wife's car ('05 LS Maxx w/1SB) has 1785 miles on it. We picked it up with 2 miles on odometer on 10/18. She doesn't drive much. Every couple of weeks I take it out to boil the stuff out of it. The oil life indicator just dropped to 59% - so it at least knows about short drive cycles.

maxx4me · February 2005

I've been doing 6k with Mobil 1. It is curious; my oil life indicater this time will drop to zero right around the 6k mark. Does the 'Bu/Maxx's computer base the mileage left on driving habits, or does it pick up on the fact that I am zeroing it out every 6k??

e2helper · February 2005

It is based on driving conditions. Use of something like Mobile 1 isn't taken into consideration (and the oil life system can't tell what type of oil is being used).

Only on vehicles that are specified to use synthetic oil is the system calibrated for it (sorry)

csandste · February 2005

"GRAND BLANC, Mich. (April 1, 2004)  How frequently should drivers change their engine oil?

http://www.gm.com/company/gmability/environment/news_issues/news/- simplified_maintenance_040104.html

Most technicians will say 3,000 miles while others say 5,000 or 7,000. But ask Mr. Goodwrench and he'll offer a simple solution  let your vehicle tell you when - that could protect your wallet and the environment from unnecessary oil changes. GM's patented Oil Life System (GMOLS) can double or even triple the time between oil changes when compared to the common 3,000-mile recommendation simply by evaluating driving conditions."

kurtamaxxguy · February 2005

GM had yet another of its AutoDrive fests near me so I spent the day driving 'Slades, SSR's, Ion Redlines, Cobalts, Corvette, Mercedes and Hummers. The fest's on its way to San Diego and then Flordia. Nothing made me want to trade in the Maxx.

Also got to drive the '05 maxx LT with sunroof and all the goodies. Didn't see or feel any huge changes from '04 but noted rattles from the sunroof and back when hitting the rut/speedbump simulators. In other words, no need to trade in on this either!!!

Can also add the Cobalt was far more refined and composed than the Ion

townhome · February 2005

Kurtamaxxguy, how do I get to go to one of those AutoDrive things? Do I have to be invited or can I sign up on some website?

pao · February 2005

Im still a 3k oil changer...sometimes it goes longer.....this time with travel etc..Im at 4k on this oil change....at about 55% life left on the GMOL....Im just old fashion I guess so I do change the oil regularly..usually within the 3-5K range....both normally closer to 3K...I dont do a lot of stop and go traffic, most of mine is highway miles..did 600 this weekend.....so could probably stretch 6-7k out of an oil change....guess peace of mind is back to my 3K. There hasnt been any discussion here that the GMOL gives bad data...guess simply old habits are hard to break......

firemanjack · February 2005

This is an intersting topic, pao...My indicator says about 60 percent.and I have about 3000 miles on the odo. So..they're recommending somewhere around 5000-5500 mile oil changes at my rate of speed, etc. I guess I'm like you...especially with a new engine..Going to change it soon..and I have a little leak through the hatch..the pieces that attach the rear wiper seem to need tightening/silicon sealing.

But..that's all I have found wrong with the car, and it is a joy to drive...Seeya Jack

kurtamaxxguy · February 2005

The actual name for the GM event is "Auto show in Motion", and anyone over 18 can go. Just find out if it is near you (it should be in San Diego, CA, around 2/18/05, then moves to Flordia), then register for it on line, and drive over during your registered time. The entire event is free (with possible exception of parking).

pao · February 2005

Mine is an 04..so dont have the spoiler or the rear window wiper .....I have enjoyed my Maxx the year of I owned it....with no problems other that the recalls at the beginning of the year for minor issues.....almost 18K on the car now....enjoy

csandste · February 2005

but in the week I've been driving, the rear defroster and natural slip stream of the car seem to be keeping things relatively clean (light snow and about two rain events). Does the lack of a rear wiper and/or spoiler wreck major havoc in really bad weather?

Sometimes break-in oil has an extra dose of moly and in some cars dumping it early can result in the engine not plating up properly. Minimal long distance travel, but at this rate my oil should last a bit more than 5K. Will probably dump it at about 10% remaining.

My Elantra did wonderfully on 4000 change intervals, burned no oil with SuperTech 10w30, a bit with ST 5w30, so I switched to Pennzoil 5w30 with no oil usage at all, although I'm sure a UOA would show shearing down to the mid-twenties. 5w20 oil effective weight shouldn't present much of a problem for this engine, nor should a 5K change interval. I'm sure that the total revolutions for that engine aren't much more over 4500 miles than the Elantra did at 4K.

I for one am not turned off by big old slow moving ohv engines. Nice not to have to worry about a timing belt and GM has the old technology down to a fine science.

Still averaging 24+ according to the trip computer. Remarkable in mostly city driving, hopefully I can hit 30 on a road trip.

kurtamaxxguy · February 2005

Some posters here find the wiper helpful with snow. In the S.Calif rain my wiperless LS seems to do fine

(the side/rear windows have Rejex on them to help keep them clean).

hickoryd · February 2005

Wonder if GMOLS looks at the color of the oil. At 2,885 miles, I changed the oil and switched to Mobil 1. Didn't feel real comfortable about the fact that my car sat on the dealer's lot for six months and was driven a total of 17 miles during that time.

Footnote on the oil change: Have NEVER EVER owned a vehicle (my tractor included) that didn't drain some of the filter's oil on to a front end part until now. The filter location is just great! Some oil gets on the old filter, but not a drop to clean up elsewhere. This is the easiest, cleanest oil and filter replacement I have ever seen. And...the oil drain plug is even impressive with the rubber ring that didn't let any oil out until the plug was in my hand.

chrpai · February 2005

The web pages I've read suggest that GMOL is just a prediction model not an actual sensor, so engine oil color would not be measured.

Personally I have a GMPP Major Guard plan with $0/deduct and 60mos/100K miles, so I will be skipping synthetic oil and doing my oil changes only when GMOL tells me to. I will document religiously and if I ever have an engine failure due to oil changes it'll be GM's problem not mine.

I bought my car a little over a month ago and I've already got 2500 miles on it and 63% oil life remaining. I for one am looking forward to the cost savings provided by GMOL vs oil changes every 3000 miles.

jerrywimer · February 2005

I had my first oil change at just under 3000 miles on our '04 sedan just to get rid of any shavings or other contaminants from initial break in. I let the dealer put regular dino oil back in it. He recommended 3k changes all the time, which caused me to argue with him (pointing out the GMOLS). I'll be driving it until the GMOLS indicates it needs changed again and then have them switch to Mobile 1 synthetic, just as I did for the 2003 Trailblazer (which had no problems at all and seemed to gain a mpg or so from the changeover to synthetic).

lost · February 2005

I had two chevy ventures (company vehicles) that had the oil life monitor. Both of these vehicles were driven to 95,000 miles. I was in the habit of checking the oil on a weekly basis between oil changes . I noticed that when I did a lot of local driving the monitor would signal an oil change was needed much sooner then those months that I did a lot of highway driving. The color of the oil was consistent with the monitor. Those months that I did mostly highway driving, the oil stayed cleaner looking for more miles then when I drove a lot of local miles.

csandste · February 2005

but if the filter is as easy as you say it is I'll go back to doing it.

Phillips TropArtic is a full blown group III blend that's selling at a little over a buck a quart at Wallyworld:

http://www.phillips66lubricants.com/GF-4+News.htm

I haven't checked but I'm sure the other ConocoPhillips brands including Union 76 and Kendall might be going the same way.

Also Exxon Mobil has a ton of group III refining capacity but they can't refer to it as a synthetic because it would interfere with their Mobil 1 marketing. This new Mobil Clean 5000 looks tremendous for the price, quite a difference from Drive Clean which had a lot of group I in it.

http://ir.exxonmobil.com/phoenix.zhtml?c=115024&p=irol-newsAr- - ticle_Print&ID=666282&highlight=

These new SM oils look really good for the price and I might just go ahead and try it with the Maxx. I misplaced my ramps several years ago. Is it easy enough to get at things so that I can just crawl around under there?

hickoryd · February 2005

Yes, it is that easy and clean.

The newer Mobil Clean 5000 container did not have the GM endorsement on it. That's why I passed on it.

Ramps. My fixed-angle ramps are too steep for the Maxx, and my adjustable ones gave out, so I made a mod. I dug 2 narrow trenches for the ramps so that the angle would not be a problem (especially for that black ground effects(?) piece that hangs down below the front bumper fascia. Even with the reduced height, I had plenty of room to reach the filter and drain plug.

sschriber · February 2005

Hey, What can I expect for accuracy on the MPG computed in the info center on my 2005 MAXX? Yesterday I was feeling good about the 27.3 mpg displayed. After filling up with 14.2 gallons of gas my 325 miles since the last fill up yields 22.9 mpg. That's 16% to the bad side.

csandste · February 2005

Mobil Clean 5000 5W-30 meets:

    * GM 6094M

    * Ford WSS-M2C929-A

    * API SM

    * ILSAC GF-4 (API Certified - Starburst)

Mobil Clean 5000 5W-30 is an ILSAC GF-4 energy conserving viscosity that provides all-season protection. It also meets requirements for diesel-powered vehicles where an API CF or CD oil is recommended.

With all Mobil Clean 5000s, youll get 16 percent more cleaning agent than our conventional oil, Mobil Clean (available only at installed facilities). It has extra cleaning power that helps your engine run cleaner than with other conventional oils  even with todays longer oil change intervals. In fact, Mobil Clean 5000 is guaranteed to provide excellent performance and protection for all car engines for up to 5,000 miles of normal driving.

csandste · February 2005

I mistakenly hit the trip meeter before my first fill, so I haven't tried yet. Does a optimistic computer mean that the miles left meeter will still show 50 miles or so when the car runs out of gas?

hgr3inok · February 2005

My wife has had 30 days and ~500 miles with her Maxx (a silver 2004 LS 1SB with OnStar). She is very pleased. I was concerned that the Maxx would be too big a step down from her 1996 Oldsmobile Aurora. However, she likes the Maxx's utility, and the Maxx soothes her environmental conscience. Her DIC currently indicates ~25mpg at an average of ~29mph. So far, everything seems to work like it's supposed to. I've driven her Maxx for ~150 of its miles. I've been a car freak for most of my life. I haven't been this impressed with the design, build quality and value of an "economy" car since the original Honda Accord in 1976.

e2helper · February 2005

The range calculation is independent of anything you can reset. I don't know enough about details of calculation to address any specific questions however, sorry.

kurtamaxxguy · February 2005

So does this mean REGULAR motor oil fails sooner, and that 3000 mile changes are the thing to do?

I change mine at 3000 miles anyway, and use a special corrosion inhibitor (not from the outfits the FCC tagged as selling junk).

hickoryd · February 2005

Mine has been displaying higher than actual also, but only by about 2 mpg. The most accurate one I ever experienced was in my '84 Caddy. It told me how many gallons it would take and was about 99% right-on every time.

beedublu · February 2005

Mine is consistently too high. My most recent fillup is typical...display indicated 28.0 MPG for the tankful, yet from my actual refill calculation it was more like 25.5 MPG.

meandmymaxx · February 2005

Just noticed something on my 05 Maxx LT. When the car is running, only the auto light sensor activates the dash lights. If the light sensor says its too light for lights, and I manually override using the switch. the head and tail lights come on, but the dash does not. The only way I can override this is by covering the sensor on the dash. Even when the lights come on with the wipers, the dash light don't. Has anyone else experienced this? I don't like it, is there anyway to get the dash lights to come on every time the lights are on??

csandste · February 2005

Haven't checked this out, but in my old Hyundai Elantra dash lights for ancillary gauges such as clock and radio were dimmer when the lights were on then when they were off. I guess this allowed you to adjust the radio easily during the day without being blinded at night. Is the Maxx's dimming of dash lights designed to allow easier reading of the driver information center?

bluedevils · February 2005

Our 2004 Maxx's trip computer consistently shows fuel economy about 2 MPG higher than my calculations (I always fill it up and reset the trip odometer back to zero, so a pretty reliable method).

Our miles to empty indication is typical of most vehicles -- there is still plenty of fuel left after the indicator starts displaying 'Low Fuel'. It displays that after you get down to 30-40 claimed miles remaining. There still seems to be a couple/few gallons left in the tank at this point.

bluedevils · February 2005

csandste, what is the consensus on best-value oils out there right now? I will check out the Philips Trop-Artic stuff at Wal-Mart. Are you saying the stuff from your link, which is labeled 'synthetic blend' in the picture and which you said is a group III oil-- this stuff is just over a buck a quart at Wal-Mart?

What are the other high-value oils currently?

I just don't have the time to keep up on Bob's oil site any more.

Kirstie_H · February 2005

Don't forget tonight's member-to-member chat - it's open mic night, so come and discuss whatever's on your mind.

http://www.edmunds.com/townhall/chat/townhallchat.html

6-7pm PT/9-10pm ET. Drop by for live chat with other members. Hope you can join us!

csandste · February 2005

Until the latest oil revisions, it was generally accepted that Chevron-Texaco and Pennzoil were the two best oils out there, at least on bobistheoilguy-- and one should remember that board isn't scientific by any means. For example Quaker State was the second best selling oil and there was little if any mention of it. Valvoline was always scorned because of low additives although it's a big seller and many swear by it.

Anyway it's usually assumed that group II is better than group I, III better than II and IV or V better than III. Most blends were slammed as being only about 10% group III and selling for a premium price. Both the Phillips-Conoco and Exxon-Mobil oils have a fairly good dollup of group III at a low price. Phillips probably got this idea from selling Ford 5w20 oils which were semi-synthetic (group III) at a relatively low price. Exxon-Mobil is rolling in group III productivity but they have to market their wares as non-synthetic or they'd burst the Mobil 1 bubble.

For the record, Pennzoil was a group II+ oil-- probably the best of the SL's.

Any SL or SM oil is probably good for 4000 miles in just about any engine. Dumping good oil after 3K, especially in a loafing-low speed engine like the Maxx's is really overkill IMHO.

bluedevils · February 2005

thanks. how long has SM-spec oil been on the market? i still have a small supply of SL Chevron oil.

csandste · February 2005

Some people knock it because some of the additives look lighter (trying to build smaller cheaper converters), however the base oils look to be improved.

I wouldn't throw out any SL oil, it works just fine.

Pennzoil upgraded their oils to SM status ahead of the deadline but kept labeling as SL because of federal regulations.

occking · February 2005

I no longer own my MAXX, but was very fastidious about keeping very accurate gas mileage records. On average, when actual mileage was between 26 and 28, the trip computer, with regularity indicated approx 1.5 miles higher than average, which comes out close to what you are saying. I put on over 24k miles in 8 months and was very pleased with the gas mileage and power of the vehicle. There were a few times on long trips, particularly during the warmer weather I averaged close to 3l.5 mpg actual, and the trip computer showed closer to 34.

I now have a Subaru Outback 2.5i LTD. No where near the power of the MAXX & gas mileage 2 or 3 mpg lower but I made the change for other reasons.

My MAXX had a build date of mid Feb 2004 and I had none of the problems others have had with transmission howl or power steering.

csandste · February 2005

Why did you make the switch?

e2helper · February 2005

This question came up elsewhere. It is known as "Parade Mode" - probably could be "Funeral Mode" as well but Parade is better

Its purpose it to keep your radio and Cluster PRNDL/Odometer at maximum intensity when you manually turn your headlights on in daytime for some special reason. If your backlighting of dash came on these displays would also dim like they usually do during nighttime and you would not be able to get full intensity. This type of operation also causes complaints which is why "Parade Mode" was created.

I believe a dealer has the capability to disable this feature but it would be permanent as far as customer is concerned because only dealer can turn it ON or OFF.

csandste · February 2005

Fascinating advances from my 01 Elantra to my 05 Maxx.

pao · February 2005

I have found the computer is off 1.5 to 3 mpg off a manual calculation.......dont think there is anything that can be done to adjust the tolerance...

pao · February 2005

occking and I were seeing how many miles we could get in a year, he was well on his way to winning...he did a great deal of winter driving and wasnt happy with the performance of the car in the snow....others of complained about traction of the car..others have praised it....we dont get that much snow here in northern va....but my Maxx....and 04 LT fully loaded has done fine..most recommended snow tires if you do a lot fo winter driving....like occ..I have an feb 04 build date...and have NO problems with my maxx....shimmy, transmission, steering, brake rotors...that seem to be the most commmon problems....most seem to be fixed right the first time...if you have a reputable service department.....that also seems to be a common theme as the service techs complicate the problem but not knowing the most current TSB and fixes....love my Maxx....a year old next month and 18k on it....

meandmymaxx · February 2005

Thanks e2helper. I will ask the dealer about it next time I am in for service. Thanks again.

hickoryd · February 2005

It rains often in Louisiana so headlights are frequently required in the daytime. Kudos to the engineering/design of Parade Mode. Cannot see radio settings on Contour if sky is bright, yet rain is falling. Still think the clock should have been separate from the radio however.

csandste · February 2005

Computer showed 25.0, fill up computation showed 24.9+. Prettydamclose if you ask me.

I get the feeling that later build Maxx's have tightened up a number of areas over the original '04's. Japanese and Korean builders seem to get more of these items right on the first roll out.

Mid twenties is great in mixed driving. Within 1 mpg of what I was getting on the manual transmission Elantra. Very happy with this car.

kurtamaxxguy · February 2005

Does anyone here know what the Malibu/Maxx's suspension travel is?

I have read repeatedly that it is "longish", and driving over hard-to-avoid occasional potholes suggests this is true.

But it would be nice to get some hard numbers.

firemanjack · February 2005

That has been my experience too, csandste. I'd say I'm geting about 2 MPG less than my Elantra, 5 spd...same driving conditions...Great..
Jack

csandste · February 2005

So far I find the oem Bridgestones better than expected. I assumed they'd be gripless since they were probably designed to give a small mileage boost to help the 'Bu's cafe figures.

I note that they're rated B for traction and B for temperature. Most non-H rated tires do have this B temperature rating (extra tread?), but even the low-end Douglas (Kelly-Springfield) touring tire is A traction and B temperature, plus a mileage rating about twice as wrong as the Bridgestones.

So my question is: "If temperature means that the tire will drive cooler and if termperature means that energy is going into heating the tire, shouldn't that increase rolling resistance and lower mileage.?"

In other words shouldn't a high mileage efficiency tire have B traction and A temperature?

maddmaxx · February 2005

e2helper, I'm guessing the should be a temp sender in the tranny. Does it kick on the cooling fans at a certain temp? If so, what's the range?

Thanks.

Chevy Malibu Maxx

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