I would buy a torque wrench and the correct sockets for lug nuts. You definitely don't want to over torque the nuts and possibly warp the rotors. If you have a Harbor Freight tools in your area, you can get it all for $25.
Rich, Edmonds still has no detail posted on this TSB. Do you know if it applies to a certain VIN range? My car has the clutch shudder on humid days.
FWIW, I also had the brake moan when turning into a parking spot. Dealer found the brake pad shims were rubbing on the rotors. Replaced with new pads under warranty. Problem solved. '03 with 22.5K miles.
There is a TSB on the shudder....just have your dealer check to see if your car applies. They must determine the problem exists...so schedule your appt on a humid day
I agree completely...ditch the 6! I bought a 2003 V6 manual fully loaded Jan03. 5 months and 5000 miles later the problems started. Engine light kept coming on. At first they kept asking me if my gas cap was tight and if I topped off the tank at fill-up. After they asked me that, I always made sure it was on tight and I always let the gas stop automatically---but it didnt help. My dealership replaced the entire gas tank after the 3rd time in thinking there was a leak inside the tank. The fuel filter kept showing raw fuel vs. vapor. Lots of emissions problems. Engine light not the only problem...bad break dust from the beginning on factory pads until replaced, squeeling brakes only while turning and braking slowly (parking), tarnishing of the manual shifter knob (replaced 2 times), and other minor problems. Long story short...I took a long shot at filed under the Lemon Law. Had more than four problems (engine light alone) within 1st year. Only had car out of service 28 days (need 30 to qualify for Lemon based on days in my state). Luckily, my dealership was awesome, although they didnt have anything to do with filing under the Law...they had me contact Mazda Corp in California directly. Sent Lemon claim form in and after over 2 months of trying to communicate back and forth with Mazda Corp, looks like its almost over. I'm getting the rest of my loan paid off and a refund for what I paid (minus mileage figured from when I first started having problems). One good thing, Mazda worked with me (over a too long period of time) to make things right. They got really specific on the engine light codes that came up and verified my Lemon claim to a T. Seems like it will pay off though. Now I just have the headache of trying to find a reliable and problem-free new car!! Just sucks cause I loved my 6 with the handling and overall options but I wait every month to see when the next engine light will come on again!
I didn't look it up, but that sounds pretty good. With a setting that low I'd go around twice to make sure they're all nice and snug. I like to make sure my nuts are tight!
At 13K miles my 6 wagon's interior fan doesn't seem to work properly anymore. The knob to adjust it does nothing. Even when I turn everything off (on these beautiful days when I just want to have the windows down), the fan runs at high speed. I found a TSB relating to fan problems but am too cheap to pay for the research. Has anyone else had this problem? The car is due for service in another 2K miles when I hope to get it fixed ... for free.
.......call me looney, but the majority of Mazda6 probs seem confined to the 6-cylinder model. That's my polite way of saying that the model with the Ford-sourced engine seems problematic, to say the least. Perhaps this point has been raised before. Any thoughts?
I don't get it- I haven't seen any posts about engine-related problems with the 3.0; problems seem to be accessories/electrical (fans, etc), brake pads, clutches, auto trans w/weird shift points. Never seen a single post about problems with the Duratec, other than so-so gas mileage. And most of the clutch-shudder issues seemed to have been with the 4. M6's with either engine are built at the same plant, so I would have to say the problems are related to OEM component suppliers and possibly some sloppy assembly from time to time. From posts on Ford sites, seems like the Duratec engine is really pretty durable- not very efficient, but durable. And no sludge issues like VW and Toyota, thank god! (I'm a former Passat owner= :lemon: )
Well, it's safe to say that the Mazda-sourced parts on the 6 are unimpeachable. But to be fair, I think Ford has the best quality of the domestics. And let's remember, the 6 platform will underpin many future car models. It's clearly a superior design. I wish I had a 6.
FWIW Ford's Duratec30 was designed by Porsche and Cosworth and has a very good track record. It was mentioned above that it isn't efficient which is true to a point. If the Duratec30 is paired with a decent transmission it can be fairly efficient as shown in the Ford Five Hundred and Ford Freestyle. I'm guessing that the MY06 Mazda6 and Ford Fusion will have decent fuel economy as well since both will have 6-speed autos bolted to their respective versions of the motor in question.
Anyone has any experience about the O2 sensor? I'm having trouble with it, the dealer told me to put the factory intake back on, but i don't have it. Anyone has any idea? Can i just replace the O2 sensor? Thanks
baggs- you hit the nail on the head; I too believe the Jetrag tranny is the problem. Haven't driven the 6 speed yet, hear it's some better but still not perfect match. If I keep mine beyond warranty, as I plan, I hope there are some aftermarket shift re-programmers by then, I'll spring for one in a heartbeat.
Not really concerned with improved gas mileage; want to improve performance via better controlled/less erratic shift points. I often shift mine manually when "playing", you really shouldn't have to with a modern 5-speed auto. My '03 Accord had a MUCH better transmission overall (not comparable in the handling dept, of course). I'm sure the cost of a re-programmer is somewhat high, when I find one I'll post.
Wow, bummer. Sounds like you got a bad apple for sure. I still think it's a solid car. If you're going to stray away from Mazda, and you like all the traits of the 6, then you would love an Acura TSX. That's the car I was going to buy until I got a killer deal on my 04 MZ6 SW. They can be had for $25.5K from what others are posting here.
I picked my new 6 wagon over the weekend, black,sunroof,Bose stereo,manual. I drove it for three days, I was in my glory. On my way to work to Manhattan suddenly it started bucking,the engine light went on and it was losing power. At 3000 rpm I had some power....very little but was able to coax the car to a NYC mazda dealer 1-2 miles away. The dealer filled the tank prior to pickup and it had 3/4 of a tank when it acted up. I thought water in the gas or a sensor.
Anyone had any trouble with the brake pedal when braking. Maybe I have big feet, but when I try to brake my foot hits the brake pedal arm most of the time and not the pedal itself. Unfortunately the arm comes from the right rather than straight down. My foot sometimes hits something under the dash when I try to brake. I am afraid that in an emergency these two problems will delay me slowing down the car.
Yes, I had (and occasionally still have) this problem, which I noticed early on. I have minimized it by installing pedal pads that effectively move your foot back about 1" from the face of the OEM pedal and that darn brake pedal arm. There are many pedal pads available with a brushed silver finish so they look good on the 6 too.
My new 6 wagon that ran for a grand total of three days before suffering power failure is still sitting for a third day still unserviced at. I've been told I may get back next Tuesday which will be a full week.You think Audi or BMW would let a new car sit for 3-4 days like that? doubt it. Zoom,Zoom,Zoom
Oh so that brake arm is what I am hitting. Twice I must have hit this with my size 14 boats and I was afraid that I was hitting the gas pedal by mistake and would quickly pull my foot off and re brake.
I took a look at it after your post and see the arm. At least I know I am not doing that Audi 5000 thing now.
These types of issues you're explaining sound serious - enough to warrent considerable concern. I'd definitely look into Lemon Law. I am not sure how many times they've actually tried to repair each problem, but I believe if there is a serious issue that persists after the third attempt of a repair--then you may be entitled to reimbursement or a replacement vehicle. However, anyone looking into the lemon law and is planning on pursuing such action should really be patient with the situation. If dealers have a problem with lowering prices on cars - then certainly a replacement vehicle is not easy. Although you have the law on your side - they protract matters.
Also, I thought I was the odd man out, but the rattling sound is quite common amongst the Mazda6. I researched it and found more than several persons complaining of the same annoyance. Although it's annoying and aggravating to know that your new car is manufactured with a rattling sound, it should be of some comfort that it's an innocent disturbance.
Interesting system, although a bit complex & pricey for Stage 2 &3. I was thinking more like an electronic chip-reprogrammer type of device, similar to the aftermarket engine management chips (plug-in, basically). I'd hate to replace a valve body on a car w/only 10K miles and have warranty problems, although a chip would probably also void warranty? At least a chip you could switch back easily, if need be.
Hopefully they gave you a loaner...I would think that providing a loaner while your car is in service is enough incentive to do the work on a timely basis. I would think thats a problem with the dealer...not a problem with Mazda.
I got my leftover '04 sprot wagon ten days ago. Picked it up on a Friday and left on Monday for a trip to North Carolina (from Ohio). Put 2100 miles on it in a week. It ran great. No problems worth mentioning. Averaged 24 mpg over seven tanks of gas.
My wife just bought a new Sports Wagon and we have not seen many on the road. Anyone have information as to the production numbers for both 2004 and 2005 model years for the wagon? Thanks.
jsnew, I just bought a 05 Mazda 6 i sedan and ran into the exact same problem at 610 miles. The engine just doesn't get any power and sputters even during idling. I am pretty sure it is an issue with the fuel injection system; however, as it is a brand new car let them keep it at the dealership. Not sure how the lemon law works in NY, but here in Mass., if the car is off the road for more than 30 days in year 1, you are entitled to a brand new car. As long as you have the loaner, let them take their time. My car is also at the dealership as I write this. I will update you on the results when I get it back. :lemon:
I finally got the car back Saturday, two days short of two weeks. The throttle body was defective.....was replaced. I love the car but with service like this Mazda can't compete with Audi and VW......... good luck with your sedan.
" I finally got the car back Saturday, two days short of two weeks. The throttle body was defective.....was replaced. I love the car but with service like this Mazda can't compete with Audi and VW......... good luck with your sedan. " --end quote-- Are you saying you like VW service? Did you own a VW that was reliable? I see so many people griping about their VW, I would be leery of buying one. Would like to hear from those having good experiences too. Loren
Ive got a 2004 Mazda6 s with 25K miles and I am having an issue with the car stalling immediately after start-up. This only happens when the car sits for a long period of time (i.e. overnight, at work) and once you restart after the engines stalls its fine. Has anyone experienced anything like this or have any ideas? Thanks in advance.
Yes it's a pretty common problem actually, from what I understand. It's usually just a software issue, at least when it was happening with my car the software upgrade fixed it. Many folks have had the same exact problem. Take it to a dealership and they should know, since it is such a frequent problem. If they don't, then you need to find a new dealership
I have a Mazda 6 2004 and have the same thing happen when the car is cold after sitting overnight, I took it back to the dealer who said it is the computer pcl or plc who replaced it which he said they do at 20,000 klms service but it still is doing it when it is cold, so i will have to take it back, also if I drive at 40 klms a hr there is a wine in the gearbox.
I just got a new 2005 Mazda 6i (4 cylinder) with automatic transmission. I have driven it about 250 miles. When the car shifts from first to second gear it is very noticeable. I feel a slight surge. It doesn't happen going from 2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 4th. Is this normal? It is not a major thing, but if I closed my eyes I would be able to tell when the car is shifting from 1st to second.
I have a 03 Mazda 6i that originally came with the Michelin MXV4 Energy Tires ($$$ expensive OEM tires) When it comes time to replace them, would Goodyear Assurance Tripletread be a good choice? What would you replace yours with?
Just wondering if I ever have to replace a headlight on my '03 Mazda 6i, would it have to be taken to a dealer? Has anyone out there replaced it themselves? thoughts...
Are you saying you like VW service? Did you own a VW that was reliable? I see so many people griping about their VW, I would be leery of buying one. Would like to hear from those having good experiences too. Loren
I owned an '87 VW Golf for 15 years - very reliable vehicle. I donated it to a non-profit earlier this year with (230,000 miles on the odometer) when I bought my new Mazda. But I don't believe VW is building the same quality vehicles it did 20 years ago.
VW has went straight to the toilet in terms or reliability within the past 5-8 years. A friend of mine owns a florist shop, and bought 2 VW Golf TDIs in 2000. BOTH cars average a trip to the shop once a month for a variety of things. On one of them, the airbag light is on, the rear wiper doesn't work, and the hatch doesn't lock anymore, but he's had enough of dealing with the dealer to get the crap fixed!
My Dad also had an '87 Golf, and it was semi-reliable, until it was totalled in '94. A lot has changed since then, and so did VW.
They've also dragged Audi into the quality toilet as well...
Comments
FWIW, I also had the brake moan when turning into a parking spot. Dealer found the brake pad shims were rubbing on the rotors. Replaced with new pads under warranty. Problem solved. '03 with 22.5K miles.
Gonna rotate tire this weekend!
God, I'm lame...
I'm having trouble with it, the dealer told me to put the factory intake back on, but i don't have it. Anyone has any idea? Can i just replace the O2 sensor?
Thanks
Just out of curiosity, will that make a noticable difference? I always thought the MPG gain with those re-programmers was <1 MPG.
They also have a very nice intake kit too.
Got it. I solved that problem by opting for the MTX.
I drove it for three days, I was in my glory. On my way to work to Manhattan suddenly it started bucking,the engine light went on and it was losing power.
At 3000 rpm I had some power....very little but was able to coax the car to a NYC mazda dealer 1-2 miles away. The dealer filled the tank prior to pickup and it had 3/4 of a tank when it acted up. I thought water in the gas or a sensor.
Any ideas?
Zoom,Zoom,Zoom
I took a look at it after your post and see the arm. At least I know I am not doing that Audi 5000 thing now.
These types of issues you're explaining sound serious - enough to warrent considerable concern. I'd definitely look into Lemon Law. I am not sure how many times they've actually tried to repair each problem, but I believe if there is a serious issue that persists after the third attempt of a repair--then you may be entitled to reimbursement or a replacement vehicle. However, anyone looking into the lemon law and is planning on pursuing such action should really be patient with the situation. If dealers have a problem with lowering prices on cars - then certainly a replacement vehicle is not easy. Although you have the law on your side - they protract matters.
Also, I thought I was the odd man out, but the rattling sound is quite common amongst the Mazda6. I researched it and found more than several persons complaining of the same annoyance. Although it's annoying and aggravating to know that your new car is manufactured with a rattling sound, it should be of some comfort that it's an innocent disturbance.
I got my leftover '04 sprot wagon ten days ago. Picked it up on a Friday and left on Monday for a trip to North Carolina (from Ohio). Put 2100 miles on it in a week. It ran great. No problems worth mentioning. Averaged 24 mpg over seven tanks of gas.
So far so good....
I just bought a 05 Mazda 6 i sedan and ran into the exact same problem at 610 miles. The engine just doesn't get any power and sputters even during idling. I am pretty sure it is an issue with the fuel injection system; however, as it is a brand new car let them keep it at the dealership. Not sure how the lemon law works in NY, but here in Mass., if the car is off the road for more than 30 days in year 1, you are entitled to a brand new car. As long as you have the loaner, let them take their time. My car is also at the dealership as I write this. I will update you on the results when I get it back. :lemon:
good luck with your sedan.
good luck with your sedan. "
--end quote--
Are you saying you like VW service? Did you own a VW that was reliable? I see so many people griping about their VW, I would be leery of buying one. Would like to hear from those having good experiences too.
Loren
after sitting overnight, I took it back to the dealer who said it is the computer pcl
or plc who replaced it which he said they do at 20,000 klms service but it still is doing it when it is cold, so i will have to take it back, also if I drive at 40 klms a hr there is a wine in the gearbox.
Is this normal? It is not a major thing, but if I closed my eyes I would be able to tell when the car is shifting from 1st to second.
Loren
I owned an '87 VW Golf for 15 years - very reliable vehicle. I donated it to a non-profit earlier this year with (230,000 miles on the odometer) when I bought my new Mazda. But I don't believe VW is building the same quality vehicles it did 20 years ago.
If you're aggressive, then you'll want a performance tire, and the Assurances will definitely not fit the bill.
If you're looking for more of a softer, touring tire, the Assurance should work.
Check out tirerack.com for more suggestions. They've got a ton on their website, and they'll be able to help you choose the right tire as well.
You can also ask Connor:
Ask Connor at The Tire Rack
My Dad also had an '87 Golf, and it was semi-reliable, until it was totalled in '94. A lot has changed since then, and so did VW.
They've also dragged Audi into the quality toilet as well...