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Sometimes it will not respond to the driver's side control at all....but will with the passenger side controls.
However, even when it DOES work, it is very sluggish.
Is a total replacement required or will it end up being the less than a dollar plastic gear like in the Lincoln?
Thanks in advance!
Da Bunny
Any advice on purchasing this vehicle is appreciated - thanks in advance.
-Dan
Go to www.chrysler.com and click on the Build My Own link. Make of note of the exact color, packages, options you want and post it here. I'll tell you the price.
This is cut-and-paste from the actual sticker on-line, item for item:
CHRYSLER SEBRING TOURING CONVERTIBLE
Exterior Color: Brilliant Black Crystal Pearl Coat Exterior Paint
Interior Color: Dark Khaki/Light Graystone Interior Colors
Interior: Leather-Trimmed Bucket Seats
Engine: 2.7-Liter V6 DOHC 24-Valve MPI Engine
Transmission: 4-Speed Automatic Transmission
STANDARD EQUIPMENT(UNLESS REPLACED BY OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT)
FUNCTIONAL / SAFETY FEATURES
Advanced Multistage Front Air Bags**
Supplemental Front Seat Side Air Bags**
Supplemental Side Air Bags**
LATCH-Ready Child Seat Anchor System
Child Seat Upper Tether Anchorages
Rear Window Defroster
Anti-Lock 4-Wheel-Disc Brakes
Touring Suspension
Power Locks
Headlamp Off Time Delay
Speed Control
Sentry Key(R) Theft-Deterrent System
Keyless Entry
Power Windows with 1-Touch Down in Front
Power Top and Windows Down Key Fob
Power Rack-and-Pinion Steering
Inside Emergency Trunk Lid Release
Power Trunklid Release
Power Accessory Delay
Variable Intermittent Windshield Wipers
INTERIOR FEATURES
Air Conditioning
Rearview Mirror with Reading Lamps
Driver's Manually-Adjustable Lumbar Support
YES Essentials(R) Stain/Odor Resistant Seat Fabric
AM/FM Stereo Radio w/In-Dash 6-Disc DVD/MP3 Player
6 Speakers
Traveler/Mini Trip Computer
Analog Clock
Temperature and Compass Gauge
Tachometer
Tire Pressure Monitoring Display
Center Floor Console with Fore/Aft Sliding Armrest
Rear Courtesy Console Lamp
Satin Silver Instrument Panel Bezel
Center Console 12-Volt Power Outlet
Auxiliary 12-Volt Power Outlet
Electroluminescent Instrument Cluster
Tilt/Telescope Steering Column
PRICE INFORMATION (contd.)
"Touring" Badge
Premium Front and Rear Floor Mats
EXTERIOR FEATURES
Power Vinyl Convertible Top
Hard Tonneau Cover
Quad LHD Optics Headlamps
17" x 7.0" Aluminum Wheels
P215/60R17 BSW All Season Tires
Power Heated Mirrors
Removable Short Mast Antenna
OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT
Customer Preferred Package 28E
Electronics Convenience Group $ 910
Auto-Dimming Mirror with Reading Lamp
Air Conditioning with Automatic Temperature Control
Air Filtering
Automatic Headlamps
Security Alarm
Remote Start System
Universal Garage Door Opener
Heated/Cooled Front Console Cupholder
Special Touring Group $ 1,495
Leather-Trimmed Bucket Seats
Leather-Wrapped Shift Knob
Fog Lamps
Steering Wheel-Mounted Audio Controls
Leather-Wrapped Steering Wheel
Power Cloth Convertible Top
18" x 7.0" Aluminum Wheels
P215/55R18 BSW AS Touring Tires
Windscreen
Electronic Stability Program $ 425
Traction Control
6 Boston Acoustics Speakers $ 495
SIRIUS(R) Satellite Radio $ 195
1-Year Service Provided by SIRIUS(R)
For More Information, Call 1-888-539-7474
Taupe Cloth Top
DESTINATION CHARGE $ 675
TOTAL PRICE:* $ 32,265
He called me last week, told me to "come on in, Christmas has come early!" I asked him for a price range we'll be dealing from, and he refused. I haven't talked to him since. All he said was it would be significantly below invoice. I figure the unadvertised incentive must be significant.
Thanks for your help,
-Dan
Anyway, the EC price for what I came up with is $27,269. That includes a $2,000 cash allowance (rebate) and a $3,171 employee discount. There is also a $200 program fee that would be added for any non-employee or relative.
The two MSRP sticker prices are within $200 of each other and it should get you fairly close to what the EC price would be for that particular vehicle.
I had got out of my 1997 Sebring JXi in the driveway and noticed that the drivers side window was down. I reached in and pushed the button to close it but it stopped half way up. I lowered it all the way and tried again. This time it stopped briefly, made a horrible snapping sound and went up. I thought it had gone up properly until I closed the door. The window hit the top and in front of the door behind the mirror. What had happened was it had gone up about 2 inches higher than it should have.
I pulled the door panel to see if it was out of a channel or something but when I really don't know how it works, it is hard to determine the problem. What I really wanted to do was remove the window then put it back in to see if it was out of place. Does anyone know how to remove the window? Also, I could see an adjustment at the rear side of the window to stop it, is there something like that at the front? Any other ideas about what actually happened and how to fix it would be appreciated.
You did get a response in the other topic -- you might want to take a look at it to see if it answers your question while you're waiting for an answer here.
Chrysler Sebring Transmission Issues
MODERATOR
Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Tell everyone about your buying experience: Write a Dealer Review
Go for it! Real men don't care what others think!
KG
Welcome to CarSpace, bigeee - glad to have you aboard!
Here's a link to checking the charging system. There are a few things you might look at that the person at AutoZone won't inspect. Some things, such as corrosion, loose connections and proper tension on the alternator belt don't require any meters or special tools.
http://autorepair.about.com/od/electricaltroubleshooting/a/battery_check.htm
You have to remove the instrument cluster from the dashboard. - not a big deal.
The problem is on the circuit board on the back side of the instrument cluster. There are three ceramic power resistors( cylindrical items with color coding stripes. the resistor bodies on mine were blue) that are mounted too close to the circuit board. These get hot in operation and you will easily see where the circuit board is burned.
The resistors are fine. The problem is that the solder joints that connect the resistors to the board have cracked due to thermal stress and the connection becomes intermittent. This is what causes the intermittent operation of your instrument cluster.
I used some small pieces of wire to patch up the circuit board and reinforce the solder connections. When resoldering the resistor connections, I spaced the resistor bodies about 1/16 inch off the board, supported by their leads, instead of mounting them tightly against the circuit board. This removes the hot resistor from direct contact with the circuit board and gives room for air to circulate so the board won't burn again.
Because of low resale - I didn't pay a lot for this car, but it won't be worth much when I go to sell it either.
Thanks in advance! I love the car so far.
Thanks!
The positive:
1. As per the seller, the car has done only 59K miles
2. The seller seems genuine and has openly admitted to what is/was wrong and whether or not she has fixed it
3. She is willing to share the receipts and is open to anyone getting their own mechanic to inspect the car (could work both ways - you play with the psychology of the person or you are confident that the car will pass inspection)
4. Willing to sell for $4500 (much less than KBB price of $8000+)
The negatives:
1. The car has had 2 owners
2. As per carfax report, the car was involved in an accident and quotes structural damage. The seller has admitted that the dealer she bought it from did tell her about the accident but said it was repaired and re-certified to factory standards
3. The car requires 2 new rear tires
4. And the BIG ONE:
a. As per carfax, the last odometer reading in May 2007 was 64K miles
b. As per seller, the odometer reading now is 59K miles
c. She says the dealer who send the update to carfax must have sent 54K instead of 64K and it was entered incorrectly
So I would like your advise....is this a good deal or what?
have a nice day
Before getting too involved, I lubricated all the joints with a spray lubricant. My personal choice was white grease. It worked for a few months then the problem came back.
In my 2002 the motor/reservoir is behind the rear seat. The seat bottom pulls straight up from the front and easily pulls forward and out. The rear is easily pulled up and out after removing the two nuts (17mm) that hold the seat belt/lower bracket plate in the center of the backrest on the floor. I also removed the two bolts (T50) that secure the seat belts to the floor at each end. I will keep you posted.
Isaac
Good luck, Isaac
It is at the dealership now and has been all day and they do not have a clue what is wrong (at $98 an hour). Has anyone experianced this problem or any part that I discribed, it would be helpful.