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Do you mean that when to turn the key, nothing happens? Like a totally dead battery.
Or the engine does crank over but fails to stay running?
Now I just cannot get it started unless I use starting fluid. If I can get started that way tomorrow, I will take it to a different mechanic and leave it there. Sometimes I did run the battery down trying to get it started. We replace the temperature sensor ? but I was told it has to be reset and the mechanic would be the one to do that. I am just trying different things. Several mechanics have looked at it and they are all puzzled.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Have your mechanic connect a fuel pressure tester when the engine is cold and make sure it's within spec's.
The other thing is to have your mechanic hook up a scanner and observe ALL the ECM (computer) functions. Again when the engine is cold. It could be that the ECM is seeing a "warmed up" engine and it's not.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Are you meaning that the clutch pedal freeplay to be adjusted???
In any case, I've engaged a law firm and intend to take Toyota to task. Will communicate the outcome.
Thanks
Ron
I will be towing a trailer shortly, which weighs approximately 2000lbs. did you have any trouble installing the ball mount assembly onto your 2003 4runner? I have a 2003 4x4 V8 sport Edition.
Thank you.
Just an aside I am sure that I was not on the gas pedal at the time. I have had the car serviced at every 5000 by the dealership.
Eric
That's when I noticed the bunched up floor mat. I reversed the front and rear floormats and never had another problem. Don't know why, but the rear mat would slide whereas the front mat stayed put. I surmise this is why Toyota puts floor mat hooks on the driver's floorboard.
So my question is, are you using factory floor mats and the retaining hooks? That's all I can speculate. I hope you get this figured out, as I'd bet you'll be on edge for awhile when hitting the brakes.
Steve, Host
No one calls the highways by number up there btw - the "1" is the Glenn Highway. Except it's the Seward south of Anchorage. I think; never learned the numbers when I lived up there. :shades:
Steve, Host
I'm living with it, at least until the day before the warranty expires. This is about the loudest vehicle for interior noise I've ever owned, and like you, I've noticed everything getting louder as the vehicle ages, and I'm slightly deaf.
Most of what you are hearing is in fact the injectors opening and closing but under a load, it's also an exhaust noise from the exhaust manifolds.
My '06 V6 4Runner has a terrible exhaust noise under load; between 2000 and 2700 rpm.
Toyota has a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) for '05-'06 V6 for the Tundra with this very problem. It is an exhaust manifold replacement with a newer style manifold to remedy this problem. Toyota won't cover my '06 due to the fact that "not enough people have complained about it" for the 4 Runner.
What's strange is that the exact same motor that is in the Tundra (V6) is in the 4 Runner.
Not to worry, I'm not done with Toyota on this! Call customer service and if enough people [non-permissible content removed] about it, they'll listen. Toyota Customer Service; 1-800-331-4331.
Let us know if find out about an adjustment to the Cruise Control.
It is getting really hot/ muggy here in Washington, D.C.; now I try to find a dealership (maybe in Southern California?) that has a trained A/C mechanic familiar with this issue and recommends the replacement of the orifice tube/ expansion valve or the dessicant. I will send the recommendations back to the dealership... -what a headache! -If I have any results, I will post it! =Andrew17
Thanks
Thanks
check this out.
http://www.samscars.com/mage12.htm
Other than trying this, I would do continuity checks along the brake circuit starting with the rear. Check to see that you're getting 12 volts on the line and work yourself back to the origin of the circuit (source of the 12 volts). A wiring diagram would be very helpful here. How about unscrewing all three bulbs and checking for voltage at one of the sockets when the pedal is pressed in (again with the ignition switch in the "on" position). It's worth a try. I once had both headlights go on me and I spent an hour checking out the circuit before I decided to check the headlights themselves. What's the odds on that?
It's frustrating, good luck with it.
Your dealer IMO should have done this as a courtesy, especially after 3 service visits. If the vehicle has lost all electrics, I'd suspect a bad battery, battery ground, or perhaps water got into (or behind) one of the fuse boxes causing everything to arc.
Just the same, if it was mine I'd dump it and just get another one if it can't be fixed.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)