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Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair



  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    I'm sorry to hear of your misfortune. Thank goodness no one was hurt.

    The car had a slow oil leak and the lower section of the engine block had deposits of old oil clinging to it.

    I am surprised that wasn't discovered during routine maintenance.

    tidester, host
  • rnbwtroutrnbwtrout Posts: 1
    My '90 4runner refused to shift this morning after turning a corner and I had to drive it home the whole time like that. The RPM just keeps climbing and I get no power. It seems like the automatic transmission is stuck in 1st gear. It's been sitting for about a week since I was out of town... Anyone have this problem before?
  • gumby2gumby2 Posts: 5
    I've just got bad news. I was told last Friday that my parts won't be in until July 8. Who knows how long they'll take to actually perform the repair.

    On the upside, I've been putting a hell of a lot of miles on that Highlander they loaned me.
  • polartoypolartoy Posts: 18
    The greasing of the slip yokes does work. I have had it done on three forerunners so far. Sometimes they do a poor job of it and has to be redone. However when done right, the clunk is gone for quite a while. In Vancouver, they have started to do this on every oil change without asking, so you know there is a minor problem and many complaints.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    Hate to say it, but that is a classic sign of an automatic transmission whose time on this planet is done. HOWEVER, if you are lucky, it just needs a good flush and refill - also clean the filter inside. Take it to one of those places that advertises a "power flush" of the transmission, get all the junk out and the filter cleaned, then cross your fingers when you drive out of there.

    I am assuming this happened when it was cold, and from the very start it was not shifting? If it was shifting fine, then all of a sudden during the drive it stopped shifting, that is something else. Like maybe the shift linkage, hard to say from here.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • siedorasiedora Posts: 1
    My 4runner is doing the same thing. Did you find out what the problem was?

  • marchanmarchan Posts: 3
    I Own a 2004 4 runner sport edition the other day I decided to change the oil and oil filter, then the maint. light came on, I read somewhere in this forum some members were told to read the owner manual ,which would tell you how to re-set that light,I read the 409 pages and there is nothing on how to re-set that light,I want to avoid going to the dealer,Anybody can help me with this issue ,thank you for your time.
  • marchanmarchan Posts: 3
    I have the same car but my problem is with the Maint. light, I can find a way to turn it off sorry this can not help you
  • goshenbobgoshenbob Posts: 4
    We have the same vehicle. While I don't know which page the reference is on, it is in there.

    Here's what you need to do - it's simple.

    1) Before you start your engine, press (and keep pressed) the Odometer button (not the trip button) on your dashboard.

    2) Insert your key into the ignition and start the engine. In 2-3 seconds, the MAINT light will flash several times and disappear.

    I've got 26K miles on my vehicle so I've done this 5 times so far.

    Hope this helps.
  • goshenbobgoshenbob Posts: 4
    Here's my latest dilema. The dealership I initially purchased my vehicle from was bought out by a competitor. Since that time, the service department has used the excuse that they've been too swamped to get programs set up or that the new dealership has graciously agreed to take care of my problem.

    When they called to tell me my parts were in, I was informed that I would need to leave my car with them for 2-3 days. When I called to set up a time, I asked them if they'd be able to set me up with a loaner. Long story short, I was told that it was the policy of the new dealership that they didn't offer loaner cars.

    I've gotten tired of dealing with these "professionals". I called another dealership, explained my situation and was informed that it was Toyota's policy that a customer having warranty work done which required an overnite stay would receive a loaner car. I guess my former dealership didn't get that memo.

    As a result, I'm starting the process over and bringing my car in to my new dealership in the morning. Not surprisingly, they'll even give me a ride to work and pick me up after they're done looking at my car - as it should be.

    A word of warning to anyone in the Northeast who's thinking about doing business with LIA TOYOTA - think twice. I have not found them to be customer friendly when it comes to such basic tasks as warranty work.
  • nedzelnedzel Posts: 787
    it is in the manual. I'll try to check it tonight and point you to the page.
  • nedzelnedzel Posts: 787

    I've got a 2003 4Runner, so my manual may be different than yours. But the information is in my manual. It took me about 5 minutes to find it. In the 2003 Manual, it is in Section 1-5, Operation of Instruments and Controls, page 123. It reads, in part:

    "You need to reset the light after the engine oil replacement. Reset the light by following the procedure below:

    1. Turn the ignition key to the off position with the odometer reading showing.
    2. Turn the ignition key to the on position while holding down the trip meter reset button. Hold down the button utnil the light goes off. Before the light goes off, it illuminates for 3 seconds, flashes for 2 seconds and illuminates for 1 second."

    I'm sure the same information is in your manual as well. Unfortunately, the index in the manual is not that great.
  • fernnnfernnn Posts: 1
    Just recently I had come to find that my starter on my 2000 Toyota 4 Runner. I am not very mechanically inclined but recently have tried to do maintenance rather than paying a mechanic to do it. I went and purchased the starter but once I got underneath the carraige, I became frustrated as I disconnected the starter but realized that the two bolts that hold the starter are quite a pain to get to, and even more to loosen. It appears as though I need to remove part of the exhaust pipe that goes to the muffler but am a bit unsure. Any tips or advice would be helpful. :confuse:
  • beto4beto4 Posts: 2
    I have a 92 4Runner with a new engine(65K) so they said.Right after new engine was installed the truck was kind of sluggish and lack of power, I checked the timing and it was set way too low(8) from the recommended from factory. I raised it a bit to 12 and the truck gained some considerable power, but the gas consumption still the same. It is using too much gas like 5 miles a gallon. Someone mentioned to replace the O2 sensor and the heave gas usage would stop. It is a bit expensive part to be guessing if it might solve the problem, all the tune parts in the truck are new, so that brings me to this forum to get new suggestions or ideas where to start.
  • Have a 1999 4 runner limited. New issue that sometimes the electric lock on the drivers side locks and sometimes it doesnt? Sporadic problem, cant see any pattern. Any ideas?

  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    you don't have any dash lights, right?

    It could be a plugged cat if power and gas mileage are down.

    You should be able to get O2 sensors for fairly cheap, like $20, and they were right, that could be the cause of heavy gas consumption too, although that would not decrease power. Now that you have the timing at 12 degrees, do you feel it is as powerful as it ought to be, or still sluggish? I assume this is a truck you had for a while BEFORE the new engine was installed, right?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • beto4beto4 Posts: 2
    Thanks for writitng, yes I have owned this truck since new and I love it except for the part when the engine went bad thanks to Jiffy Lube. By increasing the timing power is up but not like it used to, there is a bit of sluggishness still. I called the dealer and couple other places for the O2 sensor and they all have it over $100 bucks, where can I find it for $20?
  • jim58jim58 Posts: 20
    Sorry for the dalay but not looked at this site in a few weeks. The problem seems to be in Toyota's design. I think they made the system read higher mileage in order to entice test drivers to buy that particular vehicle since it is showing higher mileage than on the window sticker. Mine shows higher mileage by quite a bit and it is allways 86% lower than actual displayed mileage. Such as, when the computer shows 19.00 mpg, we are actually getting 16.34 mpg.

    I also noted that I reset the average speed to zero and set the vehicle on 60 mph on cruise control which it maints accurately, and the average speed shows 58 mph! This leads me to believe that the odometer reading the computer gets is less than actual which could account or the error. Of course, Toyota denies any problems in this system and will not investigate it. I intend to file suit against Toyota and the arbitration company who refused to test drive the vehicle during our hearing!
  • nedzelnedzel Posts: 787
    In my experience, the mileage computers in many cars are not that accurate. My 2000 VW GTI's computer also overestimated mileage by 1-3 mpg.

    I will be very surprised if you win a lawsuit over this.
  • jmtreetopjmtreetop Posts: 130
    I have had similar experience in every one of my vehicles. The mileage has overestimated by 1-3 mpg. I don't think that the computer is intended to be an actual, but rather just an estimate.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    Even at my dealer O2 sensors aren't $100. What's up here? The last time I bought one was a couple of years back, could they have gone up 50% in that time? At AutoZone they are like $29.95 if they have them in stock, which is admittedly rare.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • edgarrichedgarrich Posts: 2
    Hi there,
    I hope sombody can help me.
    I have a problem with the code for the radio, I know that I can go to the Dealer but if somebody here knows how to reset and set a new code I would be thankful.
    My 4runner is 1994 SR5 V6 :confuse:
  • Hi, I'm new at this so bear with me please. Does anyone know the procedure, or how to "program" a key for an 03 4Runner? I just bought one and the guy gave me two keys. He said the spare would unlock the doors but it won't start the truck until it's been "programmed'. He said he was told some sequence to go through, but it had to be done in a given amount of time and he could never get everything done in the alotted time. The local Toyota dealership (thieves) want forty bucks to program it. Sounds like a scam to me. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • biglatkabiglatka Posts: 78
    I agree, good luck with it. My mileage computer is overly optimistic too (about 10%). I've never heard of one that under estimates the mileage, much less accurate.
  • My son has a 95 4Runner. We were told this year was known to have that ticking sound. I am not so sure as the engine blew last week.
  • lazzarichlazzarich Posts: 37
    Sounds like an interesting lawsuit!?

    I would not expect the computer to be exact but rather within a 5% error range which is fairly typical of all cars I own. Buy a GPS or 2 and you will find that most cars typically overread slightly on speed and also on the odometer. My BMW has a 3% odometer and a 6% speedometer overread at speeds above 40MPH. It helps in keeping me out of Highway Patrols sights. Remember that if you change tire size, or any gearing you will also need to either recalibrate or account for that change.

    My 4Runner (2005 V8 4WD) appears to be very accurate with speed and odometer. The computer is optimistic by about 2 MPG, but I just adjust for it. It's not a Cessna airplane so if its a bit out it is of no great concern.

    Be aware that GPS's also have slight errors which typically relate to reception so they may also contribute to the error if you check it this way.
  • jd5jd5 Posts: 2
    I have a very annoying problem that seems to be getting worse in that the vent/AC fan has begun squeaking constantly when the fan is turned on to any level. I assume that it needs to be lubricated but I'm not sure if the fan is accessible to me without having to tear out the dashboard.

    Anyone ever have this problem before and is the fan easy to get to? It seems to be somewhere in the area behind the radio in the center of the dash? At least that's where the noise seems to come from. What would the proper lubricant be, dry (graphite) or wet???

    Thanks for any help!
  • chawk1chawk1 Posts: 2
    Does anyone know if a tailpipe extension leading exhaust to the side of the car eliminates the problem of the sulfur smell with the back window down?
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Check the Sulfur from 2003 4Runner discussion too.

    Steve, Host
  • edgarrichedgarrich Posts: 2
    Does somebody have the owner's manual? there is a section that refers to the security of the radio, and the procedure to enter the code, can somebody type those instruction here. I don't know, but maybe the reset procedure also is there.
    advise please.

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