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Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair



  • arkadaarkada Posts: 2
    Hello everyone. I own a 2002 V6 4runner sr5 sport addition. I love this car but I have little bit of problem with my a/c and heater. They work fine when I turn them on but for some reason when its off I still feel hot or cold air coming out from fans. I have to keep nub control on the middle so I won't be too hot or too cold if I don't want ot use a/c or heat. I didn't have that issues with my previous vehicle and just wondering if it's just a toyota thing or what. Does anyone have the same problems? How can I fix it?
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Posts: 410
    Sorry to tell ya, but all vehicles are the same way. Your current vehicle probably has more airflow making it more noticable. Don't know when it started, but my 1991 Chevy did it, and it was probably happening before that with other vehicles I've owned. You'll get used to it. Don't quote me on it, but I believe it's mandated.
  • lildevil23lildevil23 Posts: 19
    The CD player on the wife's 04SE conked out yesterday. On calling the service dept, they inquired about what kind of CD's she usually plays to which she said ripped/burned CD's.
    Acc. to them this could be the problem. I dont recall any mention of compatibility issues in the owners manual.
    Anybody else with insights or similar problems? :confuse:
  • arkadaarkada Posts: 2
    Thanks for reply. It's not that big of the issues for me and it just tells me that my baby doesn't have any problem wich is a good thing and I'm happy with it. Take care.
  • goshenbobgoshenbob Posts: 4
    Just got my 2004 4Runner (25,000 miles) back from the shop yesterday. I had the exact same problem. I opened the moonroof and it decided not to close. Actually, it became jammed. Dealer gave me the same excuse - 2-4 weeks to get new assembly. In the meantime, was able to drive a brand new bright green Dodge Neon. Words cannot describe how I felt driving around town yesterday. My 4 year old daughter thought the car was "cool". I'll keep you posted on how this progresses. Does anyone know who we should write to at Toyota (not the dealer) to express how pleased I am to not have a functional moonroof in the summer?
  • ilumn8ilumn8 Posts: 2
    I am right now battling it out with my local dealer over this. they are trying to tell me this is normal. baloney! HAC is supposed to apply the brakes and that is all. Grinding noises and clattering and rolling back is not part of the game.

    I have a 2003 4Runner SE, V6, 4spd Auto.

    I have had it in to Toyota 9 times in 2 years for weird transmission stuff. They repaired/replaced some gear in the tranny once, but most of the time thy tell me they found nothing or that I must be hallucinating. Today, though, their chief mechanic was with me in the car and we went up a steep hill. I stopped, then let of the brake and before I got on the gas, it rolled back, started grinding and clicking and then, once I pushed on the gas, did the dashboard chittering and HAC light, chunked down below and then went forward.

    If you live in Seattle or San Francisco, this "normal" behavior would make you crazy at every intersection. there is no way that this is normal. Maybe a class-action suit from many of us will get their attention?

  • ilumn8ilumn8 Posts: 2

    See my post to corancher.....

  • lorac53lorac53 Posts: 2
    :( There were tons of posts up until last October about the vibrations at certain RPMS...and then never mentioned again. What happened? Did people get tired of talking about it? Did people give up on getting it fixed? Did they GET it fixed? I just bought 05 Ltd V8 and it developed the vibration at 200 miles. It is getting the point I can't hardly even use the Overdrive. It vibrates as you pass through 1700-1800 RPMs (which is tolerable) but worsens when you top out in high gear and RPMs drop to 1300-1500. Dealership says all do it. Just curious why everyone stopped fussing.
  • gumby2gumby2 Posts: 5
    I'm sorry to say but I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one with this problem. My moonroof is so jammed that they can't get it closed, so they gave me a Corolla to drive around in. When they told me I wouldn't get my 4Runner back for 3-4 weeks, I told them I needed a more substantial vehicle. They had to call the regional manager to get special permission, but they set me up with a Highlander. It's certainly not a 4Runner, but its better than a Corolla (or a Neon).
  • Well I went to the dealer today (second time for front end rattle) and I went with the mechanic on the test drive and made him hear the rattling. So they call me later in the day and tell me they checked everything and they don't know what it is, they are going to call Toyota headquarters to see what they want to do about the problem and they will call me. So on the way home I realize that I just put on the new wheel locks that I got for my birthday and was wondering how they checked everything with out taking the wheels off, nobody from Toyota called me for the key. (sounds like a cover up) every time I mention about the fact that I heard there was a bulletin on the 4runner for the front end I get no response just silence. Well I will keep you posted
  • neumie2000neumie2000 Posts: 133
    Interesting. Now that I think about it, I have the wheel-locks as well, so I know the dealership did not take the wheels off when I was in. Good luck.
  • I recently bought a 1991 4Runner. The truck has about 285K mi on it, but the engine was rebuilt about 100K ago. The other day it died at work, where it is still sitting. It turns over just fine, but won't catch.

    When turning the ignition to "on", I am supposed to hear the whirr of the fuel pump correctly if I listen close enough, correct? All I hear are two clicks (perhaps one turning on, and one turning off). How audible should this whirr be? Am I on the wrong track? I think I'll pull the dist. cap tonight before I leave to see if that could be the problem. I just gone done off-roading the weekend before, and the air filter was filthy... replacing and removing it did nothing. I was also pretty low on gas when it decided to quit working... adding more gas did nothing (aside from irk me if I now have to drop the tank to get at the fuel pump). Any other tips on things to check?
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Check the "No Start" Problems discussion too.

    Steve, Host
  • dahlemddahlemd Posts: 7
    I have a 05 V6 4runner. Does Toyota put in special break in oil? Should I wait for 5,000 miles before the first oil change, or should I change it at 1,000 miles to get rid of the metal particles and shavings. Also, Does the old dictum of limiting the speed to under 50 mph still apply or does new technology make this old rule obsolete. Thanks for the advice.
  • toyotakentoyotaken Posts: 897
    There is no "break-in" oil in the 4-runner. Just do your first oil change at 5,000 miles. The break-in period really doesn't break off burrs and such any more as they engines are micropolished now. It's more to heat temper the parts than anything else. You can drive it at highway speeds, just vary the speed every 10-15 minutes or so to get differing temperatures and rpms.

    Hope this helps.

  • yaroshyarosh Posts: 14
    hi dillon, i have the same problem and would like to know what you found out. i just bought a new 2005 4runner, live in nyc, need grille guards and saw the toyota manual tells you not to put them on. the dealer said they won't do it because there's a problem with the air-bags deploying. what did you do and learn? thanks for the help.
  • toyotakentoyotaken Posts: 897
    Keep in mind that Toyota, like every major corporation in the US is scared witless about the possibility of lawsuits. I'm not going to get into a discussion about tort reform here, but lets put it this way. It is unlikely that 10lbs of bumper protector hanging off the front of your truck is going to effect the deployment of your airbags, but there is nothing to say it won't. So if you want to have it done, no affiliate of Toyota, including dealers will do it for you. So either you'll have to do it yourself or find a custom shop to do it for you.

    Hope this helps.

  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Bull bars are a big issue in the UK and Australia too. Lots of issues with pedestrian safety as well as air bag and crumple zone concerns. I understand that some standards were implemented or changed in Australia to address these concerns a few years back. I haven't keep up with the UK regs but a complete ban is apparently being contemplated for the whole EU. (link).

    Steve, Host
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    well, you have to check and make sure you still have spark. Pull a spark plug wire and have someone crank the engine - be careful when you do it! It's either spark or fuel if it just went from running fine to not running at all.

    I wouldn't be surprised if the fuel pump were history at 285K though. My truck is at 215K, and I have been wondering when my pump will give up the ghost...

    By the way, it is pretty much impossible to hear the fuel pump whir in this truck if you turn the key to 'on' without starting the engine. I tried it just to see.

    hydrasport: it sounds like your A/C needs a charge - you can look at the sight glass to see if it is all bubbly (if so, yes, it needs a charge). As for the knocking under the passenger side floor boards, you will have to be a lot more specific. When does it happen, and what does it sound like? There isn't much under there.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • ecodocecodoc Posts: 1

    I read all the messages here and am not able to find the answer to this questions.
    I too have a 99 limited w/75k miles with a button on the 4x4 lever for engaging the center differential. The problem is I cannot get the indicator light to stop flashing and get it into a 4WD mode. I brought it to the dealer and he said there is NO PROBLEM. Any suggestion please?
  • Yeah, that's kinda what I was thinking. However, since I was a one-man show in this parking lot, it was too tricky for me to turn the engine and play with the cables at the same time. I thought about getting a remote bump-starter, but BUYING stuff is always a last resort ;)

    Anyhow, I popped off the dist cap, and the rotor underneath had quite a bit of carbon on it. I also looked like a wire brush had been taken to the top of it before. So, following suit, I scrubbed the top of that guy off agin with a wire brush. Mmm, shiny and new. Put it all together, and it started right up.

    I'm still not entirely convinced that THAT is what solved this problem. It seems as though it could have been vapor lock. Vapor lock for over 48 hours though?
  • chankinschankins Posts: 1
    I was happy to see someone else so disappointed with Dunlop tires. We bought our 99 4Runner when it had 60k on it, and it now has 155k. The tires still have some tread left (I'm told they're actually slightly oversized for the vehicle thus less tread wear from the weight of the truck) but they've had problems staying in balance and now at least one has a serious case of runout. I've been balancing and rotating quite a bit just to keep from going crazy.
    Back to the truck itself. I love the vehicle, everything except the brake system. I've just put another set of front brake rotors on today, replacing the ones I put on in March 2004. They were so far out of whack that the whole car shook when you hit the brakes at any speed over 30 mph. Is there something about this vehicle that wears out brake rotors so fast?
    I also get that "clunk" when I let off the brakes from a stop. It does feel like something is releasing the brakes, as if they got locked down when I applied them to stop. Doesn't do it all the time, but I'll definitely take the other writer's advice about lubing the driveline.
    I look forward to hearing any other tales of faulty brake systems, since I don't plan to sell the vehicle just yet, I just wanted to make sure I'm not alone...
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    Not only have I never heard of 4Runners having problems with vapor lock, I also have NEVER heard of vapor lock continuing to be a problem once the engine was cold in any vehicle (used to have an old VW van that had problems like crazy with vapor lock - I would always bring a good book wherever I went). So - 48 hours? I would think not.

    Get that rotor worn down too much with one too many wire brush scrubbings, and it wouldn't take much to stop the engine from starting - the tips of the rotor don't have a lot of margin for doing their thing. Makes a good $10 investment (go for the whole $15 and get a new cap too! :-)) if you are having starting problems.

    Lastly, my old Celica (fuel-injected with in-tank pump) did this to me twice before the fuel pump failed. Both times the pump gave it one more try after I waited a day, then the third time it laid down and quit for good. Guess it was trying to tell me something. So it still might have been the pump. Good luck!

    ecodoc: if you have a constantly flashing dash light and your dealer says "NO PROBLEM" then either he is totally incompetent and you should have gone elsewhere years ago, or he doesn't understand what problem you are trying to report. The light is not supposed to keep flashing when you engage 4WD. Go for a drive with the service writer, and demonstrate the problem for him/her. And don't ever let the dealer off with such a dumb answer again - if you know it's a problem, then there has obviously been a miscommunication somewhere.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • 4run4play4run4play Posts: 1

    I have a 1999 Toyota 3.4L V6 SR5 4WD (manual transmission). 2 years ago, my "Check Engine" light came on. I've been ignoring it for a long time (almost 40,000 miles!) but now I need to get my Mass. Inspection sticker, so I need to fix it.

    Going to an "Autozone" auto parts store, they hooked up the diagnostic connector on my 4Runner to their OBD II handheld diagnostic device. The device indicates the error codes were 1135 and 0125. Inside the store, they can look up the codes on their computer. Assuming you always add a P to the code, they are:

    P1135: "Pedal position sensor A circuit intermittent".
    P0125: "Insufficient coolant temperature for closed loop fuel control".

    Let’s start with the first one: P1135.
    Huh??? I have heard of a "Throttle position sensor", which is located under the hood on the throttle body, and detects the throttle position. Does anyone know if the "Pedal position sensor A" is the same thing as the “Throttle position sensor”?I want to be sure. I looked on the OBDII home page, and I could not find error code P1135 listed! Since the first “1” in 1135 indicates “manufacturer”, and a “0” in that position indicates “SAE (Society of Auto Engineers)”, I’m thinking that 1135 is a special code specific to Toyota and not the general OBDII codes for all vehicles. The closest OBDII code I found was:

    P0124 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Intermittent

    So, I’m not sure what P1135 really means, since P0124 has the same meaning according to the ODBII diagnostic code table.

    If I assume the description of 1135 on the computer at Autozone was inaccurate, and I try to match 1135 with the ODBII diagnostic code table, the closest match is P0135, which is:

    P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

    Though, I had the codes checked a month ago (after neglecting them for 2 years), and the code P0120 was stored, along with 1133, 1135, and P0125. P0120 is:

    P0120 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Malfunction

    So, does anyone know if I have a real problem with my Throttle Position Sensor (“TPS”)? Or, does is there really a problem with the O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (assuming the code P0135 is what I should go by)? I was thinking that because of the next code P0125.

    Another confusing thing. For code p0125, The computer at Autozone, as well as the IDBII Diagnostic code table, has this:

    P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control

    My coolant temperature has been fine, and the level is fine. However, when I looked in a service manual (by “Haynes”), that same code is listed like this:

    P0125 O2 Sensor heater circuit fault.

    Wow – could this be my pre-catalytic converter Oxygen Sensor failing? What’s up with the strange description “Insufficient Coolant Temerature for Closed Loop Fuel Control”?

    Anyway, if anyone has any experience with these error codes, I’d appreciate the help. Also, if it does turn out to be the O2 Sensor, what are the odds I’ve ruined my catalytic converters? I have two, since the vehicle is California Emissions.

    I want to do as much as I can on my own, because I do not trust the Toyota dealerships, and they are expensive!!
  • mnokymnoky Posts: 1
    Hello, 97 4runner limited 198k miles. Have mild vibration only when accelerating or cruising. As soon as you let off gas vib goes away.
  • goshenbobgoshenbob Posts: 4
    I've got good news and I've got bad news.

    The good news is that the parts are in to repair my moonroof.

    The bad news is that the dealer says they need my 4Runner for 3 days. Maybe they're planning on painting the vehicle while they've got it in the shop?

    Can't wait to see what loaner car they'll try to stick me with this time.

    Is is me or does anyone else dread bringing in their cars to the dealer? I'll keep you posted on my developments.
  • I get the same clunk. The dealer took it for a ride in the parking lot. He notice the clunk after a little help and encouragement to believe problems do exit. He said it was the drivetrain lagging between a stop and go. He said it was normal.

    I asked him if he could lube the yoke as suggested by Polartoy. The dealer says they don't typically do this till 35,000 km or so. I only had 19,000 km. He said he'll do it anyways, even though its not really a warranty thing.

    It didn't make a difference. Either he was pulling my leg and did not lube it or did a poor job at lubing. He said he'll look to see if there is a Transmission programming update.

    The clunk does not always occur prior to acceleration from stop. It occurs also when you do a rolling stop. Then you'll feel a clunk as if some lightly rear ended you.

    I'm clueless.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    that could be a lot of things, from an engine or transmission mount going bad to driveline lash, to...all sorts of things. That can only be diagnosed by someone experienced who is driving the thing and focusing on the vibration.

    4run4play: it is all about sensors. The FI has a sensor to tell it how warm the coolant is and adjust accordingly, and it sounds like yours may have given up the ghost. The pedal sensor message doesn't sound smog-related, but still important. Actually, it sounds like a warning a drive-by-wire throttle might generate, but that model wasn't yet drive-by-wire in '99 was it? I can't remember. It certainly is for 2003 and up.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • tophat58tophat58 Posts: 1
    Friday, 7/1 I took my family on an extended trip in our '94 4Runner. About 20 miles from our destination, the "check engine" light came on. Almost immediately afterward, the engine started to lose power. We pulled off the road, and as the car came to a stop all the warning lights lit up and smoke started pouring out from under the hood and through the vents into the passenger compartment. I had the whole family get out of the vehicle and we stood off to the side. I was expecting the smoke to start dissipating once the engine cooled down, but instead, the smoke thickened and small pieces of burning material started falling out of the front of the engine compartment.
    The fire quickly spread into the passenger compartment. By that time I had called 911 and a good samaritan with a fire extinguisher had stopped and tried unsuccessfully to put out the fire. It took about 10 minutes for the first fireman to arrive. By then, most of the car was already engulfed in flames. 5 minutes later the rest of the fire company arrived and began to get the fire extinguished. By that time, the entire car had been burned to a shell.
    I have two observations about this: 1.) Thank God the gas tank never caught fire. The fire burned all around it. Both rear tires, the spare, and everything else in the rear of the vehicle were reduced to ashes. 2.) I was dismayed at the speed with which the fire breached the rear of the engine compartment. The car had a slow oil leak and the lower section of the engine block had deposits of old oil clinging to it. I'm sure this make things worse. Still, we had precious little time.
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