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they can download the 411 for ya nubee.take that fine tuning to your dealer and break it down for em ;=)
The repetitive clanging started slowed down as I slowed down, then disappeared. After that the car drove nice until I pulled into the store parking lot.
As you read this I was able to come home fine but I did feel/hear a few more very alarming noises. Now what do I do?? I WANT A NEW TRUCK! I am going in to the dealer tomorrow morning.
I took it out last night for a quick trip around the block with nobody in the car so I could listen to all the little noises. I also tested all possible gears and 2H 4H 4L modes. The transmission seemed to work alright. The only exception was a moderate "clunk" when going from 2H to 4H and viceversa. Somehow I don't think that's normal.
One more question, did your dash light up like a Christmas tree when this was happening?
Hopefully your dealer will find the trouble quickly so you can enjoy your vehicle once again. Good luck.
one thing i would do is turn the key to the position just before all the way for the starter and listen for the fuel pump to come on. let it run for a few seconds and then turn the key all the way to start.
you should not have to apply pressure to the gas pedal to get the engine to start.
don't be embarrassed here. honda typically provides 3 coded keys which all start the vehicle, but one is keyed for "valet" and will not open the glovebox or the trunk.
i'm not sure about toyotas but i would imagine the same would be true...
however, maybe the original owner lost the valet key and they made a spare just to get into the vehicle if they locked the keys in the car.
i dunno, but you would not be the first person to have this experience. it's always comforting to know someone has already "been there... done that..."
anyway, don't let your spouse completely in on the discovery, at least not yet. it's nice being a hero...may it last a while longer!
Thanks!
perhaps it doesn't have an immobilizer (your window sticker which you should have gotten when new would tell you...so would toyota's web-site probably.
perhaps toyotas offer different things based on trim level?
if it did have an immobilizer, and your keys were smart keys, then your vehicle is not protected as designed.
FWIW: my '95 corolla had 2 keys with black plastic handles and 1 all metal key. all started the vehicle, but the metal one wouldn't open the glove box or trunk... my '95 corolla DID NOT have an immobilizer circuit.
If you have a ground problem, other components will seek a ground to operate. That might not make sense but as far as an electrical or resistance stand point, it does.
Through-out your vehicle you have grounding points and a central ground from the battery to the chassis.
If one of these is loose, dirty or corroded, your electrical systems will seek a ground the easiest way possible and that might be going through your dash, lighting, etc.
So I would not condemn your battery yet. If at all. I'd check ALL the ground points on you 4Runner and go from there. Pay close attention to where the ground from the battery connects to the chassis.
Good luck to you!
Hope this helps.
I also have an electrical problem in wifes 2004 Sienna. Is there a website for those vehicles?
As a matter of fact, yes, they do (or did, I should say). In the later 3rd gen models (1999 up through 2002), the Limiteds got chipped keys that included an immobilizer, while SR5s didn't have that. Mine is an SR5 with regular keys, to which I added the standard Toyota alarm system.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
1. Remove the plastic engine cover - 2 bolts
2. For the passenger side, you have to remove the air cleaner assembly to get at the spark plugs--real easy, just remove the intake hose clamp and them pop the latches for the air cleaner.
3. On the driver's side, you may want to remove a few of the hoses and electrical brackets that get in the way or you can just remove a bracket on the drivers side bank of the cylinder head. It interferes with removal of the middle and rear plug.
4. The electrical connectors on the plug coils are easy to remove. Push a clip and pry off the electrical connector with a screwdriver.
5. Then remove a 10mm socket head bolt holding each coil, and pull while twisting, the whole coil assembly pulls out of the cylinder head straight off the plug.
6. This is where you need those extensions. The plugs are very deep inside the head cover. A minimum 10" extension is necessary. I used 16" worth of extensions to make it easy.
7. Removed old plugs, installed new ones. Gapped the new ones to 1.0-1.1 mm before installing (Toyota plugs come pre-gapped). Also recommend using anti-seize compound on the plus threads.
8. Reinserted each plug coil, bolted it down, reconnected the electrical wire, reinstalled the bracket and the air filter hose.
FYI - There are a few other sites on the web with pictures of this procedure if you do a google search. Hopes this helps others!
Sounds just like what happened to me when I let someone drive mine when brand new and he did not release the break. Try recreating it, push the footbrake down half way and drive half a mile, if its anything like mine you will hardly feel the resistance but the clanging will start.
1. -while the engine is cold, the A/C works fine for 5-6 minutes, then the air warms up while the compressor is running;
2. -re-starrting the engine and turning the A/C on/off, does not help.
It has been serviced only by Toyota; a month ago they tried to put more refrigerant in it, but it doesn't help. They told me they never heard of such a problem!
My colleagues think that the refrigerant is gelling (?), because the A/C was not turned on during the winter. Any suggestions?
Andrew
I don't know the service cycle for your car on transmission and differential fluids.
I also ask at each service interval that the belts and hoses on the engine be looked over very carefully. The belts should not be glazed or cracked of course, and the hoses should not be soft or "bulged out" under pressure.
Also check the tire pressure and examine the undercarriage for any kind of leakage.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I read your reply to andrew17 about A/C expansion valve in message 1787. I bought a 95 4runner this weekend and had exact same scenario he described.
What is a reasonable cost to expect from a repair shop for that, also saw a valve on ebay for 20 dollars for Camary. Is this an item that is the same for all Toyotas A/C or model specific? During my research I read on some models Toyota it is under dash, is that true for 4Runner. My 4Runner is 6cyl model, am I correct in assuming system must be pumped down valve replaced and system recharged (12 or 22?) thanks for your help!
http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/techcenter/articles/46869/article.html
It's really hard to diagnose from a distance, so I really can't encourage you to just be buying parts that may or may not be an issue.
Here in the desert the heat devours batteries ... for those living in the hotter climates I recommend routine battery replacement no less often than 3 years. Bart :shades:
Thanks for any help!
Or, only the 2&4 can be engaged; not 1-3-5.
After I have made a completely stop & shift around for a couple times..then, it works fine.
I am suspecting that the synchronizer ring/worn shifter hub; is it correct..and, can I just only work on the gear box instead of taking the whole transmission out...
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)