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Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair

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    canddmeyercanddmeyer Member Posts: 410
    I replaced my OEM Dunlops on my 2003 4Runner SR5 4WD with Bridgestone Revo's. The wet and offroad traction is better, but the overall ride is stiff and bumpy and the Revo's increase the road noise heard from the interior. Everyone driving anything else loves their Revo's, so I've come to the conclusion that Toyota made the front end of the 4Runner too stiff. I was thinking of getting Cross-Terrains for a better ride when my Revo's wear out, but the prior post wasn't reassuring.
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    gdh3gdh3 Member Posts: 28
    Thank you for the replies. It sounds like you are not overwhelmed by the ride. There are so many choices with shocks and tires and given the expense I would love to hear from others about their experiences. I think Bilsteins have a good reputation for shocks??
    gh
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    shanesplonshanesplon Member Posts: 2
    I have on 06 4Runner with 10k and I have had it in 3 times now. 1st time they told me that was normal.
    It got worse and the 2nd time they greased it which worked for about 1 week.
    Now it is in the 3rd time and they told me that is normal noise that the vehicle makes and will only grease it.
    I don't think a noise that sounds like someone rear ended you is normal.
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    shanesplonshanesplon Member Posts: 2
    How did you get in touch with the Regional Customer Service Rep? I have been to the dealer 3 times and they basically say there hands are ties and toyota doesn't give them authorization to replace anything, just lube which works for about 500 miles.
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    silorsilor Member Posts: 6
    I have quite a history of my car clunking. I was told to lube the slip yoke, which will never work at getting rid of the clunk. Several weeks ago, I had TWO new drive shafts installed. The first one didn't solve the problem. The second one helped initially for the first couple weeks. But as of today, my car is clunking again quite regularly and I'm about ready to pull my hair out. I never knew a Toyota product could be such a maintenance nightmare. Do not, I repeat, DO NOT let Toyota push you around on this one. It is a real problem that will only get worse. Lubing DOES NOT HELP.

    Hopefully you have looked at "charlie4runner's" responses. He wrote one to me on January 31, 2007 which I plan on utilizing when I one MORE FRIGGEN time approach Toyota on getting this problem corrected once and for all. Charlie4runner gives very pertinent and extensive information on correcting this problem since he had the same issue.

    I just cannot believe that Toyota had my vehicle for a week and still didn't correct the problem. Stick to your guns. This is a real problem that Toyota is obligated to correct.
    :lemon: :(
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    andrew17andrew17 Member Posts: 26
    Dear Gdh!
    Please consult a factory trained mechanic before replacing the original shock absorbers with a different type. The curve stability could be significantly reduced by the wrong set. If you check your shock absorbers the bad ones will show a little oil smear at the lower segment, a good sign to watch.

    I check my shock absorbers by pushing down hard at each corner of the truck, if the rebound is "out of order" - I would replace all of them. If the rebound is OK, the problem is in the tire pressure.

    A bad shock absorber would create scalloping (little dents) on one of the tire's running surface; in case of the 4Runner and Landcruiser the right hand side will go first.

    Try to contact our host, "Steve", he always provides reliable advice! =Andrew
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Flatterer. :blush:

    There was a great post here that got lost in the archives that I used to link to all the time. Maybe because some guy in Northern Idaho wrote it, plus he drove a Subaru. ;)

    Anyway the poster had worked as a car designer or engineer for Lexus iirc (and maybe some other outfit).

    The upshot of his shocks/struts post was that the manufacturer spent a lot of time and money designing a shock specifically for the make/model and even the trim line for that make/model. The aftermarket places would design one or two shocks and try to make them fit a variety of applications and that a "universal" fit shock would never work as well as the one custom tuned for the car. So his suggestion was that you always stick with OEM shocks (unless you were going to do a lift perhaps).

    Some companies do test their shocks to match a specific system - Old Man Emu supposedly does. Don't know about Bilsteins.

    There's more over in the Shocking! Talk Shocks here! discussion too.
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    jeremy18328jeremy18328 Member Posts: 5
    My engine hesitates when I hit the throttle causing it to die. It still drives when I'm easy on the throttle. The check engine light does not go on. I have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, throttle position sensor, and the mass airflow sensor. What else could it be? By the way it's a 92 Toyota 4runner 3.0 liter V6.I Have done the jumper wire diagnostic also and the code reads normal but the engine still hesitates. It runs like their is something wrong with but it it doesn't want to tell me what is wrong with it. Like I said before, I could drive down the street but problem with it really couldn't get me anywhere. So no stored codes and some parts have been replaced but it still doesn't run great. I am thinking about getting my valves adjusted to see if thats the problem. I can't think of anything else. If you guys have any suggestions that would greatly help me.
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    mike805mike805 Member Posts: 33
    Sounds like a lack of fuel. Have you checked the fuel pressure. I don't know the exact configuration of the 92 4Runner but there should be a pressure regulator valve that keeps a constant fuel pressure at the manifold and has a bypass back to the fuel tank. If this is bad it may be bypassiing too much giving you a low fuel pressure even though you replaced the fuel pump.
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    jeremy18328jeremy18328 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the information. It turns out that it was a distributor problem. The fual pressure regulator was something else I was going to try to test. My feeling is that no code was stored in the ECM and if their was problem their would be. But I really don't know I am Inexperienced. The problem is fixed finally though.
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    drex1drex1 Member Posts: 41
    See message 777 for additional information on how to replace your starter.
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    drex1drex1 Member Posts: 41
    For tires, I replaced mine with Goodyear Forterra Triple Tread tires--they are AWESOME tires!
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    drex1drex1 Member Posts: 41
    Can any one recommend a new horn for my '99 4Runner? The original horn is fine but a bit wimpy for a SUV.
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    rhollywoodrhollywood Member Posts: 1
    I need help to open the rear door on my 05 4runner. The wiring harness has been cut out and the door is shut. The locks on it are electronic and the door is shut. There is a little retangular shaped access in the rear door but I cannot seem to figure out how to open door from this. Help!!!
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    macsensemacsense Member Posts: 2
    This has started happening on my 1998 4Runner as well. The display comes and goes on the clock and reappears if I tap it or the dash around it. The dealer said there was in internal short in the clock and wants $300+ to replace it. Hmmm.... there has to be another solution.
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    charlie4runnercharlie4runner Member Posts: 22
    Check my previous message about a few months ago. Call Toyota's 1-800- number for customer service, and start a file. They will inturn call the Dealer.

    My final fix was a Lexus drive shaft. I belive it was a LExus G470 shaft that finally fixed it.

    I read about it on the Lexus forum at another web site.

    If you can believe thi. When I told my Dealer about the possible fix with a Lexus Drive shaft, He said " You Don't Hvae a Lexus" Duhh! I know that you wanta-be-Japanese Moron.

    Anyways, the District Rep allowed him to swap the shaft.

    The cluck feeling has completely disappeared. Believe me.

    Good Luck- Insist they do it, especially since they can't think of any other good reason why the vehicle would do this. It is not normal!
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    amazongirlamazongirl Member Posts: 1
    I just recently bought a '91 4Runner V6 auto (I had an '87 once before) It's in great shape and well cared for with 260000km. I just noticed that overdrive will shut off while I'm driving (the lights indicate I'm still in overdrive) I've since found out the previous owner brought the truck to Toyota on three seperate occasions without any results in figuring out the issue. Hoping someone can point me in the right direction to fix it. Thanks!
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    thebluewavethebluewave Member Posts: 11
    I know your in Canada and I'm in the U.S., but I have a couple questions for you, anyway.
    1. How much was the part in Can $?
    2. Was it hard to find and did you have to wait on it?
    3. You had the dealer do the swap, correct?
    I am sick and tired of the clunk and I have heard that this fix works from others as well. If you get around to it, please answer the questions. My email is rowe0075@d.umn.edu.
    Thanks Charlie,
    Matt.
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    krahnkrahn Member Posts: 1
    My car has 120,000 miles. I had the timing belt and water pump replaced 2 weeks ago by the dealership. After driving it for 3 days the transmission went. The fix will cost $5200 of which they will bill me $2600. Can the timing belt rplacement be connect with the trans going? and how much is a new trans?
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    charlie4runnercharlie4runner Member Posts: 22
    Matt,
    Your email didnot work.
    I belive the part was approx. $600 CDN. It was all covered under warranty. I've lived with the problem, a year after getting the vehicle.
    It only take 10 min. to change the part
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    melindajmelindaj Member Posts: 2
    My husband has a '92 4-Runner, over 100K miles, v-6. I'm trying to get a few things fixed before he comes home from Iraq and I've run into a problem. A while back he tried to turn the ac on and nothing happened. After tinkering with it he disconnected it and said he needed a new blower motor. I bought one and had it installed but it still doesn't work. They tested the fuses, switch, etc. and told me there is power to the switch and to the blower but somewhere in between there's nothing. I don't know what else to do. (I also had all of his belts replaced). Can someone help me? Thanks... cry: :sick: :confuse:
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    cmbmbspscmbmbsps Member Posts: 2
    I recently bought a '94 4Runner and upon returning home, I started giving it a tune up. I noticed that there was hardly any oil in it, and that it was making a slight clicking noise. It seems to be coming from my engine block, on the right side. It gets faster as I accelerate, and louder as well. I thought immediately, that it was the lack of oil, or perhaps a clogged oil filter. We changed the oil, and the filter, but it continues. My next guess would be the Valve lifters, or the valves themselves, are worn and need replacing. The oil pressure seems to be just fine, and fluctuates as it should on my gauge. I just wanted to know if anyone has had similar problems, and what exactly was causing the clicking. I would appreciate any help.
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    biglatkabiglatka Member Posts: 78
    Have someone leak test the system if not already done so.
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    melindajmelindaj Member Posts: 2
    I will thank you! :)
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    thebluewavethebluewave Member Posts: 11
    Hmm, that's the correct address.
    Anyway, I thought it couldn't be covered under warranty. I spose you sweet talked the dealer. But in any case, I'm going to start looking for one, I've heard the part is hard to find right now.
    Thanks Charlie, for the info.
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    thebluewavethebluewave Member Posts: 11
    I found a part and reviewed the Lexus TSB and still have one question for Charlie, if your still out there. There is a few parts that go along with this, wondering if I need the other parts with the driveshaft (u-joints, slip yokes, ect.) and the rear suspension kit from the Lexus TSB. I have an SR5 so I'm thinking the Lexus rear suspension is different.
    BTW, I can't get anyone here in the states to cover this under warranty or even do the swap. According to the brainless service advisors, the parts aren't compatible and may void my warranty. What??? What a bunch of idiots. Like they could tell if the driveshaft is Lexus or not.
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    drex1drex1 Member Posts: 41
    Lubricating the Drive Shaft calls for use of two types of grease. Could I simply use the Mobil One synthetic grease for both?

    From the manual - '99 4Runner 4WD "Use a grease gun to apply multi-purpose grease to the No. 1, 2, 3, 7 and 8 grease fittings. Apply molybdenum disulfide lithium base chassis grease, NLGI No. 2, to the No. 4, 5 and 6 grease fittings (double cardan joint)."
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    benlev22benlev22 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Limited with the Identity system, I can't get it to crank and there is a strange "cliking" sound comming from the fuse box under the hood. When I turn the key that "clicking" tunrns into a steady hummmmm that can be heard several feet from the car. I tried to jump it with no luck, and of course it's 5:00 on Sunday, of a holiday weekend, so I out of luck until tuesay with anyone in town. Please help. -Ben
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    mike805mike805 Member Posts: 33
    The Moly grease is higher temperature and higher pressure rated. I use it for all fittings on my cars instead of the GP grease.
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    lychristlychrist Member Posts: 1
    I have no power to the factory installed trailer light plug for my boat trailer running lights on my 2000 4Runner. The turn signals and brake lights work just fine. The dealer said that I need a new trailer relay kit at a cost of $347!! Is this something that a do-it yourselfer should even attempt to replace? If so, where is it located and how does one get to it, and does anyone know a parts store national chain that would handle such a thing? I presume that the relay module blew because of wet trailer lights, but this is the first time it has happened since the 4Runner was new. I saw an old message that suggested that these things blow pretty easily. At the apparently high price, that concerns me!!
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    drex1drex1 Member Posts: 41
    I am having a hard time getting the "Auto" temperature control button to work on my '99 Runner Limited. It seems to work fine in the early morning driving to work, but when I am try to use it in the late afternoon/evening, it won't go into auto AC mode. The otherwise works fine. Any ideas of the cause or how I might fix this?
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    pilot1966pilot1966 Member Posts: 2
    Hi guys. I have 96 4Runner SR5 2WD V6 and I’m having problems with the brakes (pulsing, noise, bad regulation and bad wet braking). The noise comes from the back and it’s a pulsing noise so I guess the pulsing brake comes from the same source (bad drums), both symptoms go away if I manually sandpaper drums and pads but after 1 or 2 weeks they come back. I guess most of you all would say just change or resurface the drums, but I’m in doubt because all these problems started after resurfacing drums, Could this work have been done wrong?
    Then I have bad regulation problems, with this I mean, brakes are too sensitive, to the point that it’s hard to slow down smoothly and this worsen when the pulsing problem is going on. When I sandpaper drums and pads, braking is nice and adjustable as needed.
    And the other “problem” or “doubt” (I don’t know) I have is a horrible braking on wet floor, the ABS go off too fast, I could say The 4 Runner is unstoppable on wet floor in comparison with the Camry. Is this normal? Is it normal that a 4 door sedan brakes a lot better than a SUV or is this related to the others problems I have? Are all this problems related?
    I hope some of you have the answer to this?
    Thanks a lot ;)
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    laroblarob Member Posts: 1
    I have the same vehicle with the same problem. Did you figure out a solution. If so, please let me know.
    -rob
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    bobgordonbobgordon Member Posts: 156
    Pilot,
    I'd have to say all your problems are related to one thing...the rear brakes.
    It sounds as though the person who resurfaced your drums didn't know what he/she was doing.
    When resurfacing drums or rotors for that matter, it needs to be done slow and with many cuts taking the least amount of material off per cut.
    Poorly cut drums can and will cause a multitude of problems, just the ones you described. Sounds like you have deep cuts in your drums. When you clean the shoes up with sandpaper, you remove the uneven marks left on the shoes and then it's fine for a while, until they "seat" again the problem reoccurs.

    If your drums are within specs, they might be able to be cut again...hopefully by another shop that knows what they are doing.
    If not, just replace the drums, clean up the shoes and adjust to specs.
    Good luck!
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    pilot1966pilot1966 Member Posts: 2
    Hi BobGordon
    Thanks a lot for answering me, and for your reference the shop that resurfaced the drums is Meineke. They do brakes, maybe they don’t want to do just drums, or I don’t know, maybe they just had a bad day with my drums.
    What I wonder is, if I did right with the shoes adjustment. What I did was closing them up to the minimum gap possible, avoiding that they touch the drum.
    Thanks again.
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    bobgordonbobgordon Member Posts: 156
    Pilot, sorry for the late reply.....

    Sounds like you adjusted them properly. I usually adjust them till the wheel "locks up" then back them off till there is no drag.
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    mike805mike805 Member Posts: 33
    I recently found that the rear window defogger on my 2006 4Runner doesn't clear the window in warm weather. I measured the voltage and resistance across the grid and then took it to the dealer. They found nothing wrong and even made the same measurements on a new 2007 and got the same results. I had to agree that there was nothing broken but the fact remains that it doesn't even begin to clear the window at least when the outside temperature is ~70 degrees and rain. Anyone else have this problem? :confuse:
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    nedzelnedzel Member Posts: 787
    My rear window defogger works fine on my 2003 4Runner. Have you cleaned the inside of the glass? Also, are you running the system on recirc? If you have it on recirc, you will fog up the windows during rain.
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    canddmeyercanddmeyer Member Posts: 410
    Inside moisture will only clear with the air conditioning operating to remove the moisture from the air. The rear window 'defroster' is for cold climate conditions. To remove interior moisture on the windows in any weather just run the air conditioning.
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    jonspectrajonspectra Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 4runner's(4x4 V6)warning light is on with the diagnostic test reporting 'insufficient coolant temp'. My first thought was to replace a sticking thermostat but after a new one was installed and the warning light reset, it came right back on after the truck had reached operating temp. Any thoughts would be great...
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    jmhsar06jmhsar06 Member Posts: 1
    i bought a 4runner V8 4WD 2006 last year and i experienced an overheating last month for no reason, no leaking, my thermostat is in good condition everything are fine. do you have any idea what is the problem? one more thing i'm hearing irritable noise on my engine the noise is like stepping on your gas so hard? is that normal because of the heat here in Northern California?
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    canddmeyercanddmeyer Member Posts: 410
    Based on your complaint, I'd guess your fan clutch failed and your fan isn't drawing enough air to cool the radiator contents causing your vehicle to overheat. Get it to the dealer soon or risk a head gasket or worse. Hopefully it's under warranty. Also, check in front of the radiator to make sure you haven't overlooked a road debris plastic bag that may have become lodged blocking airflow. I have the V6 and the temp gauge is always at the same spot in any condition, and I haven't read of any owners complaining of hot running late model 4Runners. I'm near Sacramento where it was 101 degree's yesterday.
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    lito2lito2 Member Posts: 1
    My 97 4Runner had the head job done, new timing belt and water pump. When my mechanic installed the thermostat this didn't open and we thought it was damaged some way, then we decided to bypass it and the truck ran OK no hesitation, excellent power, but off course gas consumption wasn't the best. I bought the OEM thermostat and my mechanic installed it but it didn't open also, then we thought that probably the engine should be actually cold to perform this, then he did the same thing next day morning with cold engine and the results was the same the thermostat doesn't open and let the water pass to the engine, Do you have any idea of what could it be?
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    wolfrogerswolfrogers Member Posts: 1
    I've got a 1991 4Runner V6 with a 5-speed manual tranny. I had the tranny rebuilt not too long ago...everything was fine at first, but slowly the clutch started to not disengage. I push the pedal to the floor and there's no activity until I have it nearly to the floor. It disengages partially, but still grabs and pulls the truck forward. Impossible to get into gear from a stop without shutting it off and starting the truck in gear. I've replaced the master cylinder and bled the system, and the slave is supposed to be new with the rebuild. There are no clutch fluid leaks, and the slave cylinder gets about 1/2 to 3/4 inch of travel with the clutch pedal on the floor. With the slave cylinder off, the clutch release fork has a good bit of movement up/down and forward. Backwards though, it's stiff as it should be.(Not sure if the freeplay in the fork is normal or not) In essence, I'm pretty sure the hydraulic system is fine, but I'm not positive if there -might- be something there that I'm not seeing, or if the problem is in the clutch assembly itself. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
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    ray37ray37 Member Posts: 4
    Hi,

    I posted this, but probably in the wrong place. I've an '03 4-Runner Limited whose dash temp gauge says it's 94 outside when it's really 110. Does anyone know where the external sensor is, and how to fix the problem?

    Thanks,

    Ray
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    alphapealphape Member Posts: 4
    I just got 2007 4runner and I noticed the same problem. I took it to the dealer dealer told me that it works. It does but poorly
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    alphapealphape Member Posts: 4
    I got the same problem on my 2007 V8 sport

    When I come to compete stop it jerks forward like transmission is not disconnected. Do you experience the same problem?
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    alphapealphape Member Posts: 4
    My 07 4runner has the creaking nose originating on the right rear (about the rear seat or further back) I tried to look for the source of noise, but could not narrow it down.
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    alphapealphape Member Posts: 4
    can you elaborate little more about the symptoms of the problem. I think I might have the same on my 07 V8 sport. Thanks
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    glb5glb5 Member Posts: 39
    Hello Everyone
    Does anyone out there know the procedure to change the programing to be able to unlock all the doors with one click of the remote instead of having to press the remote button twice?
    Also has anyone had success with the latest TSB where Toyota changes the driver seat frame to allivate the rocking problem and the noise the rocking makes when rounding a corner?
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