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Comments
Today I heard the transmission making noise. I checked the fluid and there was none! Also saw transmission fluid spots on the pavement under the car, but not very much.
I am wondering if the problem was caused by the mechanic not doing something right, or if new transmission fluid can destroy the seals. The transmission has been serviced before without problems.
Thanks,
jMayfield
Thanks in advance
I have a 92 Century that will run/drive fine, good idle, no power loss, no sputtering etc. for about a mile or so then it will just completely and suddenly die. Engine dies, all instrument lights go out, no radio, no power steering, no electrical at all...dead. When I turn the key there is no activity at all...no fans whirring, solenoids clicking, etc. After anywhere between 20 minutes and an hour it will start right up and run fine. Actually, I can sit and idle for at least an hour (haven't sat longer than that idling) but as soon as I drive away from home...about 1/2 a mile to a mile away and we are dead again.
I am going to take it into the shop but would love to hear what others think could be the culprit before I foolishly okay tons of tests and repairs that don't fix the problem.
I am adept enough with a multimeter to do some testing if pointed in the right direction...just not sure where to start with this.
Thanks so much....abbe
John
the windows go up very slowly and then stop and you have to wait 5 minutes until the motor cools before they work again, NO buick dealer could fix it.
I was told to try and replace the power motors and see if it fixes it?
John O
I've got 200k+ miles on the car, 8 years as a Pizza delivery at night and Real Estate Property Management during the day car. The exact mileage is in question as the PRNDL cluster went down a few years back.
There are wiring, relay, sensor and module issues throughout. I installed high intensity blue white head lights in '02 which caused wiring damage throughout and 9 years of rain into the passenger floor board from a bad seal at either the heater or in car cabin filter, possibly could be a blocked drain in or around the firewall. The water leak has led to a nice rusty fuse panel in the passenger side access panel.
She has the standard Century issues: Kicks into gear because of a bad solenoid in the tranny, oil in the radiator, already replaced one window register, body control module causes door locks and side mirrors to work only intermittently, A/C doesn't work, blown fan motor and blower control module, right side radiator fan only works off a direct jump from battery to white electric wire, left side radiator fan does not work at all even with direct power from battery, rear speakers work about 10 days out each year, need new headliner, carpet liner and arm rest console. Where to begin?
Recent repairs: new brakes, rotors, tires, tie rods, front wheel hubs, rear sway bar, drivers window register, plugs and plug wires, 1 & 4 cylinder coil, engine temp coolant sensor, serpentine belt
Seems like a money pit, should I trade her in on a good used Regal or keep dumping man hours and cash into her?
Since the rocker panel is considered to be a structural member the whole side panel right up to the roof panel must be replaced.
??How in the world can GM sell a car that rusts out a structural member that quickly get past a recall??
My 96 Buick LeSabre has 178,000 + miles on it and it still is not rusted, much less rusted out. Fantastic car. Low maintenance costs, Great ride, Economical.
Granted I put on the best tires available, but that car handles slippery roads as if they were dry. ABS system still works perfectly in spite on Minnesota salted roads. Love that car.
??Anyone out there have another fix for those rusted out rocker panels??
Check also that there is no coolant in oil(milky looking) or oil in coolant. Suggests a blown head gasket. A compression leak down test would also show a problem. A check of water pump would also be a good idea. Have you recently used any sort of stop leak in the radiator? This stuff is notorious for blocking off internal cooling passages. Got to flush it out of there. Best of Luck...
Thanks,
:mad: Alex
The only installation issue I can think of is that the gas cap is tethered, so you need to disconnect the anchoring line from the cap. I don't expect this would be very difficult.
THANKS GREG
Need to replace the Torque Strut on my 1994 Buick century. Was taken in for inspection and was told that in order to Pass I need to get that done. (the guy even showed me what I need to get done)
Called around and got quotes anywhere from $80 to almost $300.
Needless to say I am not going anywhere close to them.
I checked online and the part is $9.99 at Auto zone.
Seems like it's on top, right under the hood and held together with 2 bolts.
Could it be that easy to remove. Just losen up the bolts, take the old one out and put the new one in. Or is it more complicated?????????????
Have to mention I have NO CAR REPAIR EXPERIENCE, other than checking my fluid levels.
Thanks for taking the time to read and I will check back this afternoon after work to see what the responses are.
Have A GREAT DAY.
I am planning on working on it this weekend since the weather will be gorgeous.
Just want to know if I have to somehow support the motor from the bottom (like raising it a bit) or if I can just undo the bolts, take the old one out and put the new one in.
Please answer the question if you can. Really appreciated
Thanks
2. Remove transaxle mount nuts, then install suitable engine support fixture.
3. Raise engine only enough to provide clearance for mount removal.
4. Remove mount to engine bracket nuts, then mount
5. Reverse procedure to install. Tighten to specifications.
Book labor is only .5 hour but I'm worried about the cheap part you're buying. List price is almost $100. How can you get it for $10 bucks?
89 CENTURY quits at times driving hot or cold fast or slow. Will usually restart while still rolling and go on. Sometimes quits 2 or 3 times. Sometimes wont start after sitting or overnight. Sometimes starts fine.
I have 40 psi fuel pressure, When it wont start at home, ether will get it started. Very intermittentent problem.
I replaced fuel pressure regulator as when I tapped on it , she starts n runs.
Thank you
M
I am not a mechanic by any means, but I have had problems with my windows for years. I finally took it to a dealer to have it diagnosed. The verdict: a short in the right passenger door lock actuator. I can only raise/lower my windows with the right passenger door open because of this. I have not fixed it yet because I have heard horror stories about taking apart a door due to all of the electrical parts involved in power locks and power windows.
thanks
joe
P.S. I told her to consider running up to Auto Zone and buying some Lucas fuel cleaner to see if it will help any.
-Patrick
Donation rules have changed so you might get very little for it. Could be better for you to sell it to someone who knows how to re-install an airbag. I'd sell it as a "parts car only" and write that in 3 foot letters on the Bill of Sale.
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