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Comments
Any thoughts are greatly appreciated
bf
Dealer is nuts....if it's sitting still and idling the tires can have no effect at all.
I am looking to purchase a used F250 PSD, between 03 and 05. I have been told to stay far far away from the 04's. Is this true that the 04's had to many engine problems with the 6.0? Or was the problem corrected with programming? I just passed up an 02 7.3 in hopes of finding a little newer addition to the family for the next 8 or 9 years. Any advice is appreicated.
By to mid to late '03 Ford had sorted out the engine problems, but if you really want a 6.0L, to be safe you'd run much lower risk of buying a real pain in the butt problem if you bought an '04 or newer. Also consider an '02, or early '03, 7.8L Powerstroke - those engines had all the kinks worked out.
We think gas is a commodity, but is it?
Check out www.toptiergas.com
Mark.
I'm extremely satisfied with my truck, but am interested in knowing mileage to rebuild on powerstroke and the transmission. When can I expect to have to do the rebuild? So far this truck has not cost a cent (hope I'm not tempting fate!) in repairs.
What is the average life prior to rebuild for these components - tranny and engine.
Cheers
Brian
NZ
I have been told that it may take awhile but it may increase. The truck had 7600 miles on it when I bought it and now has 9200. That 9.8 is actually up from when I first got it but not by much. I think it was 9.4 when I test drove it. I am being told of other people in other trucks with the same size engine that they are getting in the teens. The engine runs great and there doesn't seem to be a problem with the vehicle but it seems kind of low for normal driving (not towing) which is kind of scary because I bought it to tow a 26' Jayco @7100#. I opted out of a V-10 or Diesel because I don't tow all the time with it. OK next question. The TBC on the the newer Super Dutys, mine does not have it. I found the controller w/ the replacement master cylinder online for $399. Has anyone bought one of the trucks without it and then put one in yourself? Changing the master cyl. doesn't look hard and the controller is a plug-in deal. Ford is telling me that I need to have it re programmed so that the truck will recognize it. They only want $900 for the whole thing plus install. Is it worth it?
I am using a Tekonsha Voyager at present and it works but it's in the way. I like the integrated one better. I have been told that there is no comparison between the OEM and aftermarket. Thanks in advance any info will be greatly appreciated. Sorry for such a lengthy post. tuneman
I know some after market units "claim" to be proportional. Not sure if its worth $900 if you are not towing that frequently.
As for your MPG, the F-150 is rated for like 14 city, 19 highway, The F-250 is a bigger heavier brick to push through the wind, plus the different gearing. If you drive over 65, you will never get good MPG. If you get up to 12 overall average, that is good.
Mark.
Any ideas or thoughts on this issue???
Thanks
By all means change the fuel filter, and don't forget to drain the fuel line water separator. Since it's cold where you live you should also get winter diesel fuel additive - it prevents diesel fuel from gelling on cold days and preventing your diesel motor from running. Most service station switch over to winter blend diesel that resist gelling, but the fuel additive is extra insurance. The additives also inhibit algae growth in your fuel tank.
Also, get some coolant test strips. They're used to measure the concentration of the anti-cavitation additive in the radiator. Cavitation is small bubbles in the coolant along side the cylinder walls - they expand and cause hot spots on the cylinder - over time they cause erosion of the metal. That's not good if you want to keep the truck for a long time.
On the subject of cold days. When you turn on the key - the "Wait to Start" light turns on - that shows that the glow plugs are warming the cylinders. Wait for the full 20 seconds, and then try to start. You may even want to cycle the glow plugs a couple more times to warm things up more. If the engine's been warmed with the glow plugs, it usually starts fairly easily, and doesn't kick out all that much smoke. Just a thought though, if waiting to start doesn't help the rough starting, then check to see if your Glow Plug relay is working. That's one of those items that seems to wear out after 100k miles. It's a cheap fix that makes a world of difference in the winter.
Good luck and have fun with the new truck. That motor is just about broken in.
I have a 2004 6.0L superduty. My question is would there be any benefit to having my block heater on even in mild climate (keeping the engine/oil warm) as there is with the two cycle marine engines???????
Kenny
did you get your problem fixed and was it your fuel pump? and how difficult/expensive to fix?
thanks for any advise!
If the turbo is real hot when you're going to shut down, you just can't shut off the truck - the oil stops pumping and the heat will degrade the oil sitting in the turbo and possibly over time cause premature bearing wear. You need to run the truck on level streets or idle it for a while to keep the oil circulating while the temperatures go down. When it gets around 300-400 degrees you can shut off safely. SHould only take a few minutes.
Its a basic 5 speed manual quadcab shortbed needed to haul a 25 foot travel trailer. Doesn't have a hitch yet either...any advice on where to go to get one put on?
thanks ..glad I found this forum!
Per a hitch, if you don't have a reputable local aftermarket shop (ask around work -- they'd proabably also sell running boards & bumpers, too), you can always go to U-Haul.
Hope the truck gives you many miles of pleasant driving. My 2001 hauls a 25' 3000lb travel trailer very well - at 65mph (no wind, no hills) I get about 12mpg - but mine is the 7.3L engine - yours is the 6.0.
Best,
Stan
Bingo!! Dealer checked it and they had released the truck to us without checking the tire pressure in all the tires.
We found a local shop that will be installing the tow hitch and equalizer for a trailer.
It is dubbed "The Hog" now...for the Arkansas Razorbacks!
Thanks for your response.
Donna
Hopefully someone can help me regarding towing capacity. I am considering purchasing a used F250, and looking at the 1990 model year as a target. I intend to use it to tow a 21-foot boat (total weight of boat + trailer about 6000 pounds). I have been searching the web for some info regarding the towing capacity of the F250 as a function of model year, engine size, etc. Can someone give me the 50 cent tour of F250 towing capacity and if 1990 is a good year to purchase?
Thank you!
David
I'm not sure I approve of the name - my wife & I are both Badgers (UW), and both my kids are Longhorns.
Oh well.
Drive it lots of miles in good health. Maybe we'll end up in the same campground somewhere down the road.
You're welcome -
Stan
If you're looking at a gas engine, 1990 engines were fuel injected just like today's are, so torque & horsepower should be fairly close, based on engine displacement. If you're looking at a Diesel, for sure you'll have enough power.
Certainly a 3/4 ton truck (the F250) should be capable of hauling a 6000 Lb trailer, depending on engine size.
It would probably be a good idea to have trailer brakes, though.
Good luck!
Stan
Troy
Thanks
Tammy