Hey I was able to fix the air suspension, was an easy fix. After lifting up the Navi so that I could get underneath, and removing the front left wheel, I examined all the fittings from the compressor down to the airbag. I found that the nut holding the ride height sensor on was loose and allowing the arm to move with out moving the sensor. One wrench and I was back good to go again
I just bought a 2003 Navi from Carmax and it came with a DVD Entertainement system. It also came with the wireless headphones. I am having problems with trying to get the wireless headphones to work. When I connected a wired headphone everything works. The wireless headphones even worked in my brother's Lexus GX. So it's not the headphones. Does anyone know how to make the wireless headphones work or sync up with my DVD system in the Navigator?
I am having the same problem, was wondering if I have to buy direct replacementsfor the head sets. I tried using the head sets out of an 06 chevy system, but they did not work either!
It seems I am replying to my own postings now. Well I spoke to soon, the ride height sensor is going to have to be replaced because the nut just spins and will not tighten up to hold the sensor arm in place, oh well at least I know what part to purchase. Now I wonder just how much that part is going to cost!
Check your coolant level, some times when the coolant is low not enough hot coolant gets to the heater core. If this is the case and you are loosing coolant have the system presured check to fing the leak.
The more we use the air conditioning in the climate controlled the seats, the more our beige seats are turning black. Is this a common problem? Any solutions? I have a 2005 Navigator with 10k miles.
I think I may have a solution. Something the dealer could not or did not even attempt to solve. I knew it was the rubber weatherstripping that was the culprit of the tapping/squeaking noise. The door is apparently aligned too tightly on the upper half. Meaning it was pressing against the upper weather stripping with too much force. Thus, every undulation in the road that flexes the door creates the noise against the weatherstripping.
I decreased the noise by 95% just by simply sticking a rubber bump stop I got from Walmart on the door frame where the door meets the body of the car. The kind that you use to put on the bottom of appliances, etc, to prevent scratches. I placed one round 1/4" thick X 1/2" diameter rubber stop on the upper B-Pillar where the door's upper cylindrical bump stop meets the B-Pillar. Noise alomost completely gone. Consequently, I hear just a very small bit more wind/road noise. Nothing out of the ordinary. Noise was driving crazy. Now the luxury quiet feeling and mental sanity is back.
(SEEM LIKE ONCS A WEEK NOT ALL THE TIME) IN THE MORNING WHEN I TRY TO START IT, ENGINE ROTATES BUT DOS NOT START. IF I TOUCH THE GAS PEDAL IT WILL REV UP AND THEN COME BACK TO AND IDLE BUT AT 400 RPM. IF YOU PUSH THE GAS PEDAL IT STALLS IF YOU TRY TO GO OR MOVE THE TRUCK IT STALLS. THEN YESTERDAY IT HAS WORK IN THE MORNING BUT WHEN I GOT TO WORK 9:00 AM AND TRY TO START IT AT 5:30.PM SAME PROBLEM AND I HAD NEW PLUGS PUT IN AND THE PROBLEM IS STILL THERE. HAVE NO CODS HAVE A THE $5000.00 SCAN TOOL THE DETERMINATOR. HELP HELP :mad:
did you ever get this fixed. this is happening to mine for the past day and i do not know what it is. please let me know what was done to your to fix this problem.
I have a 1999 navigator w/ 80K miles on it. Just today, it's stalled out 3 times while at stop signs/stoplights. The service engine soon light came on and there's a whining coming from the engine, sounds kinda like a pushmower does when the air filter is filthy, but not nearly as noticeable. All fluids are fine. Any ideas? Would bad gas cause this, I just filled up last night, but drove 40 miles on the gas before this happened. I'm going to try dri gas, and if that doesn't work, take it to the stealership tomorrow. Thanks!
If your service engine light is on, one of 100 components may have failed. Go to the dealer, or to Auto Zone, and have the code read, then you'll know what's wrong. The engine diagnoses itself quite well if that light is on.
I went out of town for a week and my sister was driving it. When I returned my navi sits up high in the back. I don't know much about cars but I wanted to hear what the problem could be before I take it to the dealer and they tell me a million things are going on with my car. This is the first problem I have had after 167,000 miles (I travel alot). Maintenance is up to date so what could have gone wrong. Any help is appreciated.
Hey this is your air ride suspension compressor motor . It is located in the very front under hood on passenger side . Lincoln mercury charged me $600 for part and labor for this just last year .
But, your motor may be just fine. Do you have a Door Ajar light on? Because if you have like a back window not shut tight, or a faulty door sensor it would lower your truck when you shut it off like it's supposed to. I'd check these first. If your motor was bad, it would be riding low, not high.
Thanks nvbanker I am going to check that now. I do have the problem of my door ajar light staying on while I am driving and I saw here that someone said WD-40 so I am going to try that.
I believe ya, Mike. Just wanted to check on the release valve issue for him. He said he has a Door Ajar light on, that will not let the release valve lower the truck when he gets out and shuts it off, so it'll stay high too in this case. And before I replaced the motor, I'd fix that door switch.
Not necessarily, if you have a Door Ajar light still. The oil in the hinge doesn't always get it, the dealer know just how to do that, OR, you may need a new door switch.
Spend the money for the motor if you wish, but you may still have the problem.
The source of this problem (likely) is the plastic moulding all over the lower part of the door. This is NOT attached very well at all to the door itself and under certain driving conditions it rattles and bangs.
My 2003 is in facf going into the shop today to fix a whole long punch list of items - this being one of them: it is driving me CRAZY on the freeway.
Also as others have stated the door frame does not onto the car very well at all - but I really think your problem is what I described above.
Recently while trying to start truck, it made a sound like a car makes when you turn the key forward while car is running.(mine was not running) I tried turning the key again & it started right up. It happened a few more times so I replaced starter. After 2 weeks with no problems it is happening again. Could it be missing/chipped tooth in flywheel? Any help/suggstions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, Rich
Yes, it could be, especially if you let it go too long spinning the starter drive around against the flywheel or ring gear.
OR, it could be your battery is weak. Makes a similar kind of sound.
I rather think though, you were right the first time. However this is extremely rare in Fords these days. Since the 70's, this gearing has been really beefed up, and can go a long long time.
Problem rear suspension system 99 Navigator, after lifting and changing tires the suspension system in the rear does not work. Sets real low in the rear and will not come back up. The off switch was not set before lifting, what damage could could this have done and what best I do? I have read the owners manual and tryed but with no results. How bad can this be cost wise?
Normally doing that won't break anything - just needs a reset. Try doing a power down of the truck for 30 seconds or so by disconnecting the battery. May clear the problem. If not - is your pump running? If so, you may have sprung a leak somewhere in the rear system.... Not likely you need the two airsprings, but possible one of them sprung a leak while lifting it. Very expensive...if that's the case.
Has anyone added a cold air intake, chip, module, or exhaust, etc. to improve performance and gas mileage? If so what worked out the best for you, what brand did you use. Thanks.
Recently my check suspension light came on and my navigator is sitting in it's lowest position. The compressor is not operating. I am trying to locate both the fuse and the relay for the air compressor. Need some guidance.
I have a 2004. Mine is tapping at the front passenger door. I wouldnt describe mine as a rattle or bang though, just a tap now and then. Let me know what the dealer says, thanks
After all that work on my part to solve that tapping noise, the noise comes back. The rubber bump stop, I finally figured, pushes the door out by 1/4". Thus making the parts that contact not contact anymore. Well, the bump stops would move and fall off after some time. Needless to say, only temporary. I thought it was the door being too tight against the rubber weather stripping causes the tapping noise. Well, I tried the sheet of paper test on a closed door and it is not tight after all. The paper easily slides b/w the the door and weather stripping with the door closed.
I noticed the vertical glossy black trim piece b/w the doors had marks and scratches on the edges. The vertical piece rubs with the other door's trim piece to make the tapping noise. They touch when the doors close and when the car is driving. Now to get the dealer to agree to fix it. Hope this solves it!!
Took car to dealership, they told me that I need a new microprocessor for the air suspension ($1150) because there is no power getting to the air compressor. Has anyone had their microprocessor replaced? I am really skeptical and now I'm wondering if it is just the air compressor relay.
Any luck on solving your starter problem? I have the 2000 Navi with the same problem. It's had this problem for almost two years, but it only happens 1x-2x/mo, not often enough to motivate me to replace the starter. It does get worse in cold weather. I assumed the starter but the cold weather would lead me to think the battery, as suggested by the other reply to your thread. Thanks, Tom
ok,it could be one of your coil packs. their located under the spark plug cap with the spark plugs. theres 8 of them, 4 on each side.see, instead of having wires connected to the plugs, you have coils. you named a lot of parts replaced, try the coil packs. their 80.00 a piece, so hook up to diagnostic and it should tell you which one is bad.
the coil pack, its with the spark plugs.under the hood on the left and right side of the engine. the top back part of the engine. its in a bad spot,so be patient. what ever you take apart make sure you put it back.the coil pack sits on top of the spark plug.
No, but I am having the same problem, it usually takes 20-40 minutes before vehicle will start. It happens about every 10 trips I take. Service Dept. gave me new battery. Did you ever find the solution? They had it for 2 days and could not get the start to fail.
That sound too familiar. Especially everything works when you turn the key over except the radio and of course the engine won't start, did you ever get if figured out? It started doing this at 103,000 miles. I had the spark plugs replaced at 100,000 as indicted in service manual. They gave me a new battery and is still does it, approximately every 10 trip I take. It will take anywhere from 20-40 minutes and it will then start. I believe the radio has some association w/the problem?
Tree u r the best, way to go. I had the same problem, I bought the part (5b322) installed it turn on the truck and waited about 5 mins and it started to inflate.thanx for saving me a whole mess of money. Its was fun, when I went to pick up the part at the dealership they tried to confuse me by saying I should find the defect on the rightside of the engine by the compressor. When they saw I knew what I was talking about, then they said "oh yeah we sell plenty of those connectors monthly" I don't believe that one.
Comments
I decreased the noise by 95% just by simply sticking a rubber bump stop I got from Walmart on the door frame where the door meets the body of the car. The kind that you use to put on the bottom of appliances, etc, to prevent scratches. I placed one round 1/4" thick X 1/2" diameter rubber stop on the upper B-Pillar where the door's upper cylindrical bump stop meets the B-Pillar. Noise alomost completely gone. Consequently, I hear just a very small bit more wind/road noise. Nothing out of the ordinary. Noise was driving crazy. Now the luxury quiet feeling and mental sanity is back.
Also, I recommend turning off your CAPS LOCK. People tend to ignore messages typed in ALL CAPS.
tidester, host
I have a 1999 navigator w/ 80K miles on it. Just today, it's stalled out 3 times while at stop signs/stoplights. The service engine soon light came on and there's a whining coming from the engine, sounds kinda like a pushmower does when the air filter is filthy, but not nearly as noticeable. All fluids are fine. Any ideas? Would bad gas cause this, I just filled up last night, but drove 40 miles on the gas before this happened. I'm going to try dri gas, and if that doesn't work, take it to the stealership tomorrow. Thanks!
Spend the money for the motor if you wish, but you may still have the problem.
My 2003 is in facf going into the shop today to fix a whole long punch list of items - this being one of them: it is driving me CRAZY on the freeway.
Also as others have stated the door frame does not onto the car very well at all - but I really think your problem is what I described above.
Thanks in advance,
Rich
OR, it could be your battery is weak. Makes a similar kind of sound.
I rather think though, you were right the first time. However this is extremely rare in Fords these days. Since the 70's, this gearing has been really beefed up, and can go a long long time.
Have your battery checked first, just to be sure.
could this have done and what best I do? I have read the owners manual and tryed but with no results. How bad can this be cost wise?
After all that work on my part to solve that tapping noise, the noise comes back. The rubber bump stop, I finally figured, pushes the door out by 1/4". Thus making the parts that contact not contact anymore. Well, the bump stops would move and fall off after some time. Needless to say, only temporary. I thought it was the door being too tight against the rubber weather stripping causes the tapping noise. Well, I tried the sheet of paper test on a closed door and it is not tight after all. The paper easily slides b/w the the door and weather stripping with the door closed.
I noticed the vertical glossy black trim piece b/w the doors had marks and scratches on the edges. The vertical piece rubs with the other door's trim piece to make the tapping noise. They touch when the doors close and when the car is driving. Now to get the dealer to agree to fix it. Hope this solves it!!
The passenger side power window does not work. No noise or anything, every other window works without fail though. Is it the fuse?
Also, where can I find the parking brake lamp wires?
Thanks :confuse:
No idea on the wire for the brake lights, but what's wrong with them? Doubt it's the wire....
Is it accessible by non-mechanics?
the spark plug cap with the spark plugs. theres 8 of them,
4 on each side.see, instead of having wires connected to the plugs, you have coils. you named a lot of parts replaced, try the coil packs. their 80.00 a piece, so hook up to diagnostic and it should tell you which one is bad.
me by saying I should find the defect on the rightside
of the engine by the compressor. When they saw I knew what I was talking about, then they said "oh yeah we sell plenty of those connectors monthly" I don't believe that one.