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Lincoln Navigator Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • the ends of the spark plugs had unburnt gas on em, but other than that ok for the mileage that was on them.
  • jkstajksta Posts: 1
    I have a vehicle here at our bodyshop and the liftgate is not working. The fuse is good, but we don't know if there is a relay also. If so does anyone know which relay and it's location?? The customer has an aftermarket alarm and remote also that normally operates the gate but it's not working nor is the switch in the overhead console. Any help is greatly apprectiated and we are desperate for help.
  • fhmmaxfhmmax Posts: 3
    the problem is actually caused because you are using 91 octane petrol and in reality these are old blocks that were built for 95 or higher (even though they tell you that 91 octane is what you should use). Lack of octane in the petrol causes dryness and over heating in valves.
  • I suggest you disregard the post:

    "the problem is actually caused because you are using 91 octane petrol and in reality these are old blocks that were built for 95 or higher (even though they tell you that 91 octane is what you should use). Lack of octane in the petrol causes dryness and over heating in valves. "

    Everything mentioned is completely incorrect.
    It's not an "old block", it was never intended for unavailable 95 octane gas and octane has absloutely nothing to do with "dryness"
  • henrie3henrie3 Posts: 5
    I finally heard from the dealership, they wanted me to come look at something. Turns out the problems seems to be caused from a varmint crawling up under my hood and munching on the wires in the harness. Waiting on the insurance adjuster to get out there now so it can be fixed. Thought I would post this just in case someone else runs across this same problem. Seems this is a common problem that insurance companies see alot.
  • Navi01,

    I was faced with a similar issue. Go buy a wired FM modulator and use one of your power accessories since the box requires power. This will allow you to route the signal from the external source to the radio on a choice of 2 channels through your stereo system. The FM modulator has left and right RCA inputs so you can plug any external audio source to it.
  • I have a 2002 Lincoln Navigator and the previous owner had set the memory seats and mirrors and I can not figure out how to reset them because I do not have an owner's manual. Everytime that I unlock the car it sets the mirrors and seat to that certain position which I then have to change. If anyone can help PLEASE do so.

    Thanks
  • I have a 1998 Navigator and when you go to start it gives agrinding noise almost like the starter is bed. I replaced the starter and it is still happening. Any solutions or suggestions?

    John G
  • glenda3glenda3 Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Navigator and I've had it back to the dealership 4 times with an engine knocking. The car has a slight vibration also. Anyone having this issue?
  • toolfxrtoolfxr Posts: 15
    I don't agree with fhmmax, Low octane? That's BS!!! I ran my '00 Navi on 87 for 4 years and didn't hardly get a single knock. 95 Octane isn't available in the USA and hasn't been since the early 90's. This engine was designed and built late 90's. My troublesome '04 ran fine on 87 till Ford bought the stupid thing back in Sept.
  • heyjewelheyjewel Posts: 1,046
    No knocking, but I had a slight vibration at low speeds in my '04. There is a TSB having to do with the motor mounts for this. It fixed mine.
  • Hi, I am new at this site, but i have a 99 Navigator and my heater core had to be replaced two times since I bought it late Jan 06. Now sometimes I have no hot air blowing out.
    Has any one else have this problem?
  • henrie3henrie3 Posts: 5
    Go to this site, it explains alot. I'm now having to have a new cyclinder head put on, the #4 exhaust valve was not closing.

    http://www.aa1car.com/library/misfire.htm

    Hope this helps someone out there with the same problem.
  • henrie3henrie3 Posts: 5
    As you can see I'm doing alot of homework for a female LOL
    Just scroll down till you find the problem your experiencing.

    http://members.aol.com/carpix256/library/index.html
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Sounds like your fuel line pressure check valve is leaking. Here's how to test it. Next cold morning you start the car, turn the key on....for like 5 full seconds. Then crank the engine. If it starts up normally, that's your problem. It's allowing the pressure in the line to leak out, so that you have low pressure when you start up. You have to pump up the pressure before the injectors will fire after the pressure has leaked out. Sounds like it takes 5 hours to deplete them. This valve is supposed to hold that pressure.
  • Is this noise a low hum when you start the vehicle then stops after a few moments when the vehicle warmns up?

    This is the problem I am having also? I think it is possible it could be the blower for the heater? It may be a coincidence but I if I open the drivers door the noise stops. I not saying opeing the door stops the noise but perhaps provides a vent for air flow. That may not make sence but this is what happens.

    I am taking mine in for maintenance to see if they can find the source of the noise in April.

    I will let you know if I find out what it is.
  • This sounds like a problem I am having with my 98 Nav. Now I think it my be the A/C compressor engaging. Not quite sure yet still doing research.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    The hum you hear, is your air pump, raising your suspension. When it's at the proper level, it turns off. It will trn off and on as your load changes throughout the drive.
  • 87chief87chief Posts: 1
    I also have a 2000 Navigator. It broke down last week, the dealer said it looks as if major repairs will have to be made. He said the #7 cylinder was loosing compression but he couldn't be sure until he tore it down. $1000.00 up front for the work. I only have 83,000 on the engine. I called Ford Customer Care and they said there was nothing they could do. The chief of the Service Dept said this was an unusual problem and that there is probably a defective part. I told Ford that and they again said sorry nothing they can do. For the last 4 yrs the vehicle has been stopping on us for no reason. I have taken it to 5 dealers who said nothing was wrong. Finally, one guy charged us $460.00 and said he fixed the problem. As you can see, Ford took us. There has to be someone we can contact about this problem. I will never buy a Ford again.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    What do you expect from Ford? The truck is 6 years old. Ford guarantees the truck for 4 years and 50,000 miles - beyond that, you need to buy your own warranty, or take the risk! There are millions of these engines on the road, most of them go 150,000 miles with no issues. Many in livery service have gone 500,000 miles with no service.

    Now, it is very unfortunate that yours has failed early, but it is well beyond Ford's responsibility to fix for you. And you knew that. It never ceases to amaze me that people expect the manufacturer to warranty their car forever, when the guarantee period is clearly known and specified. The dealer who thought they had fixed it maybe owes you something, but Ford owes you nothing.

    I expect you will never buy another Ford. That's your only recourse though, and if they did fix it for you, you probably would still never buy another one either.

    You can't even sue Ford for this. There is no-one you can contact, because they do not owe you anything. They are machines, no matter who makes them, and it's a miracle they work at all.

    I'm very sorry for your bad fortune - all cars are used, and all are prone to failure at some point. It's a gamble for each of us every day when we get in the car, that some part may fail. It's managed risk. If you want a guarantee that you will not have to fix the failure yourself, you need to drive new cars that are still under warranty, or buy extended warranties. If you do not, and drive older, cheaper cars, without the expense attached of exended warranties, then you gamble - you may win, you may lose. You made a good bet on the Ford Triton V-8. But it happens, and you rolled the dice and lost, it appears.

    If it were me, and I have had this happen to me in my lifetime, I'd just trade the truck on something else, right away, and get rid of the problem. But Ford owes you nothing. To Ford, this is an "old truck", and their responsibility to guarantee that engine is over.
  • I have a 99 Navigator on it's second engine. First one blew at 90k miles. The "new" engine came to me with 68k on it. I have since put 30k additional miles. The problems with both engines have been endless. On the first engine I had a Spark Plug literally shoot out of the cylinder. This morning on my drive to work I was having obvious compression problems and sure enough I have the same problem as you. I have had this vehicle for 4 years and am still paying off the loan not to mention an average of 2-3 thousand dollars year to fix problems that Ford will not acknowledge as there problem. Shame on them. I am with you 87chief...Ford just lost a great and dedicated customer. I would never reccommend a Ford product to anyone!
    Kevin
  • fhmmaxfhmmax Posts: 3
    Actually it does cause dryness, the higher the octane the more it lubricates the engine. BY THE WAY I OWN A FERRARI GARAGE SO I THINK I KNOW. As for the block it is about a 25 year old design with merely new electrics, and up to date computer system, but the actual block design is ancient. My guess is the person who had this problem drove many long distance miles, as if you only drive locally or the odd long distance it wont burn the valves, but do it to regularly and you engine valves will blow as many people on this forum keep saying happens around 75-80,000 miles. Simple solution to the problem is to buy an additive if you cant get the higher rated petrol
  • fhmmaxfhmmax Posts: 3
    Actually its not BS i own a garage, you might have run your car for 4 years but what distance did you do in it. People who do regular long distance trips will burn out their engines within 75-80k miles. Or what you can do as we did for a test, is stick 91 octane fuel in a ferrari, and then we put it on the track at high speed to see what would happen . within 100 miles the valves had burned out on 2 cylinders. So i do know what i am talking about. Solution for you guys in the states is put an additive in the tank every 3 to 5 tank fills.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Well, this is the problems board. I also had a 99 Navigator - my first one, and never had a single engine problem with it. I, however sold it, and got a new one 03. My 99 had 65,000 flawless miles on it. Maybe they go to hell later on. I maintain however, that Ford, or whomever makes the machine, is only liable for it through the agreed upon warranty period. Ford never said it would run perfectly forever.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    we put it on the track at high speed to see what would happen...

    Define high speed. :)

    tidester, host
  • "Actually it does cause dryness, the higher the octane the more it lubricates the engine. BY THE WAY I OWN A FERRARI GARAGE SO I THINK I KNOW. As for the block it is about a 25 year old design with merely new electrics"

    Utter, complete nonsense.

    By the way, that magical fuel additive are you proposing to keep it wet?
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    Maybe we can get some links posted?

    "The quality of gasoline, and the additive package used, would be more likely to affect the rate of engine wear, rather than the octane rating." (repairfaq.org)

    Even better, take it to Fuel and Oil Additives.

    Steve, Host
  • That makes sense because it only does it in the morning and when I pick up someone or change the load it is carrying. I knew that if there was something wrong with it it was minor because the truck drives great. Thank you for your help.
  • toolfxrtoolfxr Posts: 15
    We're not talking about a FERRARI! This is a FORD. The engine isn't meant for high speed driving(any speed over 85 mph)over long distances! We drove these TRUCKS/SUV's for SF to Tahoe regularly. Our avg speed 75 mph. In California most octane boosters are not legal to use. Plus now with the methanol added to the gas(up to 15%) this can cause alot of the problems with the valves burning hot. Or you could be using MTBE which is even more corrosive.
  • z72z72 Posts: 2
    I have a 98 navigator with the same problem. I REPLACED THE VACUME HOSE THAT CONNECTS TO THE REAR OF THE MANIFOLD. THE HOSE STARTS FROM THE PVC AREA WITCH BENDS TO THE BACK OF THE MANIFOLD.SINCE THEN ITS WORKING FINE. I HOPE THIS HELPS YOU.
  • lbinhlbinh Posts: 190
    It was the rear A/C expansion valve. The dealer replaced. There is a TSB for that issue. NVBanker nailed that problem on the head before I even went to the dealer or read the TSB.
  • lbinhlbinh Posts: 190
    2005 Navigator Ultimate. 13K Miles. Gas prices hurt but love this family car.

    I have this tapping noise around the driver's door frame when the body flexes while driving over uneven road surfaces. I think it is the weather stripping. Brought to the dealer twice and all they did was spray silicone on the stripping. Helped very little. Noise still there after that and eventualy gets worse over time.

    The noise sounds like a piece of felxible rubber being pressed and inched back and forth over a glass surface. Like a sticky rubber sound and not like the clean glass streak sound(if you now what I mean). The door alignment to the car body looks flush. The weather stripping is new.

    Could the door not be aligned properly and making the door seal too tighly and pressing against the rubber weather stripping to hard? The door from the oustside looks flush. Or, do I have defective rubber weather stripping? Looks normal to me. None of the other doors have this problem. Any insight is appreciated.
  • Try rubbing armor-all on every rubber part you see and then notice if that makes any change. Also rub some on the painted part the weatherstrip contacts.
    It's not a permanent solution but will help you ID the problem
  • z72z72 Posts: 2
    I HAVE A 98 WITH THE SAME PROBLEM. CHECK THE VACUUM HOSE THAT GOES FROM THE PVC VALVE TO THE REAR OF THE MANIFOLD THAT SHOULD SOLVE THE PROBLEM. I HOPE THIS HELPS
  • lbinhlbinh Posts: 190
    I will try my McGuires rubber protectant as a temp. fix. Armor All, on the other hand, is actually bad for vinyl and rubber. All about the shine and can deteriorate vinyl and rubber (My old Nissan dash cracked b/c of it).

    The silicone spray they used was actually better than any rubber protectant like Armor All and others. It is actually a lubricant.

    I will continue to hound them for a permanent fix when I have some time. Sometimes, as in my case, IDing the problem and getting them to admit/fix it is very difficult.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Well, good luck. My 03 did that the whole three years I had it. I just turned the Stereo up louder. With the A/C blowing in the summer, and the radio rockin', I barely heard it. I never did try to get them to fix it. I know from experience, they can't.
  • jwrenjwren Posts: 1
    I ran out of space in my X5 and my lease is up on my X5 (BMW) I have two little ones with a double stroller and two car seats. So I need lots more space.. I just ordered a new Ultimate Nav 4x4 and now am hoping I didn't make a mistake. I guess I got a little spoiled on quality and now am hoping that Lincoln doesn't let me down. Please tell me I didn't make a mistake and that I will be happy with this car, as so far I love the test drive, but I know that doesn't always mean everything about the car. I am just hoping I didn't buy a lemon :lemon: . What can I expect? thanks
    JW :confuse:
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,077
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    Need help navigating? [email protected] - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Share your vehicle reviews

  • lbinhlbinh Posts: 190
    I am one of those determined, polite, customers who will not take no for an answer. I will keep trying with the dealer. I usually do not drive with the radio on and so the noise is frustrating for such an expensive car. New cars under 15K do not have noisy door seals. Nad to pay almost four times that much and get lesser quality, that bites.

    The rubber conditioner did not work as I predicted it wouldn't. Could it be a door alignment problem? The door is flush with body of car. Does the door bend and wobble that much when driving or is it just too tight and the slightest movement creates a squeeking noise with the weather stripping?

    To isolate the weather stripping as the culprit, I think I will remove the stripping completely and see if that stops the squeeking. Hope the wind noise doesn't drown out the squeek.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Relax, your Navigator will be more reliable than your X-5 was, at least. I had 2 of them, a 99 and an 03, and I wish I had an 06 right now, but gas prices have finally hit the choke point for me, and I'm driving my sedan instead of a new Navigator for a while. I have a second SUV, two of them was a luxury for me, I guess.

    Anyway, loved them both. Finest large SUV on the market in my opinion. Drive with confidence.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    My 03 Navigator was generally very tight. I took that poor truck on the Racetrack Road in Death Valley, a 30 mile stretch of dirt that eats cars for breakfast, and has been known to bury everything but Jeeps from time to time. My poor Navigator was shaking so badly the whole ride, that I thought all 4 of the doors would come off. It looked like they were all flexing to the people in the back. When we got done, (that's 60 miles of this round trip), and got back to the pavement, the doors just seemed to settle back onto the body, and I had developed NOT ONE rattle. However, the driver's door still had the creak in it. I was hoping at least, the shake would take it out. It made it no worse, mind you.

    It just sort of seems the body flexes just enough to creak that door to me. But the Racetrack Road showed me something about these trucks. Lincoln should use this as a proving ground, and then advertise it. If I could figure out how to do it, I'd post a couple of pics of the truck out there. It was a beautiful thing.
  • mxglenmxglen Posts: 1
    I'm experiencing my first problem with my '99 Navi and I'm hoping someone can assist. I recently noticed my stereo cutting off intermittently and noticed it was volume dependent, seeming to shut off when turned higher. I also noticed during bass hits or peaks in volume the screen dimmed tremendously. So I'm figuring it's not the stereo but something dealing with the power going to it, since it's obviously cutting off because it doesnt have enough power.

    Now. on the way back to work after lunch the radio kept shutting off again...i then noticed my clock, overhead mpg/compass display, and all other indicators are dimmed extremely low and my window wont even go up or down. When I turned it on for this trip back to work I noticed the car struggling tremendously to turn on, like the battery was dead. Also, sometimes my odometer doesnt even turn on for up to 20 minutes, so I think there's something electrical going on. My best guess is the alternator because the problems even occurred at 60+mph on the freeway when it should be powering these things. I don't know...any thoughts, please feel free to respond!!
  • lbinhlbinh Posts: 190
    You had the same results as an article I read in Car and Driver magazine. Glad you Navi held together. I bet if Lincoln used that as a testing ground, no doubt, the Navi will gain a lot of weight. Also, gain in material and workmanship quality. Ony if.... On the down side, increased weight for added structural rigidity and decrease in fuel economy.

    Will keep looking into it the squeak.
  • lbinhlbinh Posts: 190
    First, get the alternator and battery tested at an auto parts store(ie, Autozone).

    Next:
    Might be the source of power, the battery. Try cleaning the battery posts with baking soda and water. You may even have to sand the terminals down for a good electrical contact. Do it for both positive and negative terminals. Other than that, check the battery to ground connection. It should connect from the negative terminal to a point on the body of the car. Clean that too.

    Good luck. Let us know how that works.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I think your battery is discharged. Try this. Start the car normally, but watch all your guages. If your big dials go all the way right, then all the way left, then where they should be after the car starts, your battery is bad. Change it.
  • e_z_zekee_z_zeke Posts: 6
    Recently bought a 2003 Navi Ultimate. This morning the drivers side suspension is not working, that side of the car is riding down on its stops while the passenger side is sitting up high. :( I do not have an owners manual to look in to even know which fuse to look at or if there is one.
  • e_z_zekee_z_zeke Posts: 6
    As I posted just before I bought a 2003 ultimate Navi, it does not have the navigation discs for the system. I also own a 2002 Lincoln Blackwood with the navigation system. The discs from the Blackwood will not work in the Navigator. Any suggestions on where to purchase the discs? Also does any one know if the mapping is any better than what was in the blackwood, I purchased the updates on the Blackwood and they still did not show some of the Freeways Here in the LA area that are 4 years old.
  • e_z_zekee_z_zeke Posts: 6
    Its me again, I could have posted one message to cover all my issues, but figured each one of them is diferent.

    How do I set the codes so that I can use the buttons on the outside of the door? :confuse:
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I had an 03 Navigator Ultimate.....never had your problems but:

    On the suspension, it's not a fuse, or the whole car would be down. There is only one air pump - it has to be a leak in the one side somewhere.

    To set the code on the door, you need the master code, which should be in your owner's manual. If not, your Ford dealer can give it to you from the VIN number. Once you have it, you put it in, then press 2, then put in the new 5 digit code you want. Your doors will lock then unlock if you did it correctly.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    The systems are different - the Blackwood system is CD driven, the Navigator is
    DVD driven, and much better. It's a Denso system, I believe, but I'd shop around the net, E-Bay autos, etc. Someone out there has them for sale.
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