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"the problem is actually caused because you are using 91 octane petrol and in reality these are old blocks that were built for 95 or higher (even though they tell you that 91 octane is what you should use). Lack of octane in the petrol causes dryness and over heating in valves. "
Everything mentioned is completely incorrect.
It's not an "old block", it was never intended for unavailable 95 octane gas and octane has absloutely nothing to do with "dryness"
I was faced with a similar issue. Go buy a wired FM modulator and use one of your power accessories since the box requires power. This will allow you to route the signal from the external source to the radio on a choice of 2 channels through your stereo system. The FM modulator has left and right RCA inputs so you can plug any external audio source to it.
Thanks
John G
Has any one else have this problem?
http://www.aa1car.com/library/misfire.htm
Hope this helps someone out there with the same problem.
Just scroll down till you find the problem your experiencing.
http://members.aol.com/carpix256/library/index.html
This is the problem I am having also? I think it is possible it could be the blower for the heater? It may be a coincidence but I if I open the drivers door the noise stops. I not saying opeing the door stops the noise but perhaps provides a vent for air flow. That may not make sence but this is what happens.
I am taking mine in for maintenance to see if they can find the source of the noise in April.
I will let you know if I find out what it is.
Now, it is very unfortunate that yours has failed early, but it is well beyond Ford's responsibility to fix for you. And you knew that. It never ceases to amaze me that people expect the manufacturer to warranty their car forever, when the guarantee period is clearly known and specified. The dealer who thought they had fixed it maybe owes you something, but Ford owes you nothing.
I expect you will never buy another Ford. That's your only recourse though, and if they did fix it for you, you probably would still never buy another one either.
You can't even sue Ford for this. There is no-one you can contact, because they do not owe you anything. They are machines, no matter who makes them, and it's a miracle they work at all.
I'm very sorry for your bad fortune - all cars are used, and all are prone to failure at some point. It's a gamble for each of us every day when we get in the car, that some part may fail. It's managed risk. If you want a guarantee that you will not have to fix the failure yourself, you need to drive new cars that are still under warranty, or buy extended warranties. If you do not, and drive older, cheaper cars, without the expense attached of exended warranties, then you gamble - you may win, you may lose. You made a good bet on the Ford Triton V-8. But it happens, and you rolled the dice and lost, it appears.
If it were me, and I have had this happen to me in my lifetime, I'd just trade the truck on something else, right away, and get rid of the problem. But Ford owes you nothing. To Ford, this is an "old truck", and their responsibility to guarantee that engine is over.
Kevin
Define high speed.
tidester, host
Utter, complete nonsense.
By the way, that magical fuel additive are you proposing to keep it wet?
"The quality of gasoline, and the additive package used, would be more likely to affect the rate of engine wear, rather than the octane rating." (repairfaq.org)
Even better, take it to Fuel and Oil Additives.
Steve, Host
I have this tapping noise around the driver's door frame when the body flexes while driving over uneven road surfaces. I think it is the weather stripping. Brought to the dealer twice and all they did was spray silicone on the stripping. Helped very little. Noise still there after that and eventualy gets worse over time.
The noise sounds like a piece of felxible rubber being pressed and inched back and forth over a glass surface. Like a sticky rubber sound and not like the clean glass streak sound(if you now what I mean). The door alignment to the car body looks flush. The weather stripping is new.
Could the door not be aligned properly and making the door seal too tighly and pressing against the rubber weather stripping to hard? The door from the oustside looks flush. Or, do I have defective rubber weather stripping? Looks normal to me. None of the other doors have this problem. Any insight is appreciated.
It's not a permanent solution but will help you ID the problem
The silicone spray they used was actually better than any rubber protectant like Armor All and others. It is actually a lubricant.
I will continue to hound them for a permanent fix when I have some time. Sometimes, as in my case, IDing the problem and getting them to admit/fix it is very difficult.
JW :confuse:
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The rubber conditioner did not work as I predicted it wouldn't. Could it be a door alignment problem? The door is flush with body of car. Does the door bend and wobble that much when driving or is it just too tight and the slightest movement creates a squeeking noise with the weather stripping?
To isolate the weather stripping as the culprit, I think I will remove the stripping completely and see if that stops the squeeking. Hope the wind noise doesn't drown out the squeek.
Anyway, loved them both. Finest large SUV on the market in my opinion. Drive with confidence.
It just sort of seems the body flexes just enough to creak that door to me. But the Racetrack Road showed me something about these trucks. Lincoln should use this as a proving ground, and then advertise it. If I could figure out how to do it, I'd post a couple of pics of the truck out there. It was a beautiful thing.
Now. on the way back to work after lunch the radio kept shutting off again...i then noticed my clock, overhead mpg/compass display, and all other indicators are dimmed extremely low and my window wont even go up or down. When I turned it on for this trip back to work I noticed the car struggling tremendously to turn on, like the battery was dead. Also, sometimes my odometer doesnt even turn on for up to 20 minutes, so I think there's something electrical going on. My best guess is the alternator because the problems even occurred at 60+mph on the freeway when it should be powering these things. I don't know...any thoughts, please feel free to respond!!
Will keep looking into it the squeak.
Next:
Might be the source of power, the battery. Try cleaning the battery posts with baking soda and water. You may even have to sand the terminals down for a good electrical contact. Do it for both positive and negative terminals. Other than that, check the battery to ground connection. It should connect from the negative terminal to a point on the body of the car. Clean that too.
Good luck. Let us know how that works.
How do I set the codes so that I can use the buttons on the outside of the door? :confuse:
On the suspension, it's not a fuse, or the whole car would be down. There is only one air pump - it has to be a leak in the one side somewhere.
To set the code on the door, you need the master code, which should be in your owner's manual. If not, your Ford dealer can give it to you from the VIN number. Once you have it, you put it in, then press 2, then put in the new 5 digit code you want. Your doors will lock then unlock if you did it correctly.
DVD driven, and much better. It's a Denso system, I believe, but I'd shop around the net, E-Bay autos, etc. Someone out there has them for sale.