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Had similar problem on Wifes '95 New Yorker in '05.
Hadn't had a recharge since new.
Threw in ONE can (and it barely took a full one) and it worked fine till we sold it in '08.
Un-plug the Low Pressure cut out switch and Jumper the 2 wire connection right after you start the car and turn on the AC. If it works immediately there's your sign of just a hair too low of freon charge.
NOTE: To all FoMoCo RWD full size car owners, especially anywhere in the Northern Salt Belt. There is a wrapper/cover on your AC Dryer (vertical cannister about 3" - 4" in diameter X 8" - 10" tall) that has a tendancy to HOLD moisture and inturn cause the housing to rust through.
REMOVE this cover/wrapper ASAP. If it has begun to rust or corrode, apply some Rustoleum Gloss Black to it.
Good Luck........
Terry
Thank you for the tip. We don't live in the Salt Belt, but we do have a little moisture in the Winter = WA.
We R & R'd the Mass Airflow sensor on the TC when it caused the engine to lose power while pulling the boat/trailer. That fixed it. As the CEL light is on, I'd bet it is something related to the emmission control system and if not the Mass Airflow sensor, perhaps the EGR sensor.
Let us know the outcome.
The dealership suggests it is likely the actuator motor (and offers a fix for ~$200). However, the motor seems to be just fine: when the ATC works correctly, I can hear the valve moving and feel the air changing the temperature while I change the temperature setting up and down stepwise. When the ATC does not work correctly (max heating), the following diagnostic procedure seems to reliably solve the problem: turn the ATC off, press the floor and off buttons concurrently, press the auto button within 2 seconds. The diagnostics are run, and I get the 25 (temperature blend door actuator) and 115 (engine coolant temperature sensor) error codes. After the blue button is pressed, I restart the engine, and the ATC works fine.
The max heating issue seems to be triggered by the car being started while it's cold and the ATC is set to any temperature above the outside, but it's still pure guesswork, as it wasn't really cold here yet, and it occurred just a few times and I wasn't observant enough to be sure. Could it be the control unit rather than the actuator? There's another issue with the ATC that makes me suspicious: when I switch between imperial and metric units, the ATC would sometimes ignore the change, and sometimes the display flickers between F and C. Is it something I can safely ignore (in the sense it won't break completely and cook me up in the cab or deprive of any ventilation)? I'd rather spare 200 bucks if resetting the ATC with the diagnostic test is enough to make it work.
Thanks in advance for any hints and comments.
from. Fuse is for instrument cluster, clock,A/C control module, radio, & diagnostic connector.
I temporaly replaced fuse with 30 amp; radio and A/C came on but could smell burning so I pulled the fuse. Dash did not come on. I can not afford another car. Does anyone ever had this problem. Thanks Bob
camillit@comcast.net
How do I reset the drivers seat so that it stays where I position it. When I take the key out of the ignition it goes to the full back position! This has worn out the forward/reverse worm gear in the gear box. You cant buy the gear and they want to sell the complete seat frame assembly at 357 bucks. I am handy and rebuilt the gear but the normal person can't do this. I put a switch in the feed wire but there has to be a better way. The procedure using the remote that is in the owners manual doesn't work. The dealer gave me a blank stare.
I am curious about your mass air flow and climate control problems though. I have noticed that if I put the temp on 85 or 90 it blows hot air but anything below 82 it is about like haveing outside air come in. It does not freeze you but then it is not winter yet either. Could I have the same problem you had and is it a cheap fix?
I've been trouble-shooting problems I've been having with my blower motor and am at a loss. My air randomly will not start up and I can not figure out why. Listed below are what I have tested to far.
1. Blower Speed Control Module- Knowing that these were notorious for having bad solder problems in the '98's I checked here first. Once removed, the BSCM looked almost as if it were new. No problems aesthetically.
2. Voltages- the line into my blower motor is receiving 14 volts when on high, meaning that there doesn't appear to be any problems upstream (BSCM, wiring, etc.)
3. The Blower Motor- Once I removed it from it's housing I tried connecting it up and everything worked fine on it. There did not appear to be anything in the housing itself that may be obstructing it.
Where I am confused is that the blower seems to work just fine for a while, then all of a sudden won't want to turn on. It always happens once the engine has been turned off (won't ever quit in the middle of working). I have also noticed what seems like a metallic grinding sound that comes from the engine when I turn on the air at first. I thought it may be the compressor, but I checked it and it's not trying to kick on when I get the sound (the A/C was off also).
Does anyone have any ideas of what I should be looking at?
Over time we have had blower motor problems with this fleet where the rotary switch would wear out (obviously not equipped with ATC), the connection plug at that switch would o/heat melt the plug end allowing the blade connector to expand from the heat and disconnect.With the molded plug end melted it could not hold the blade in contact with its mating part. Disconnection.
BSCMs that have thin wire coils to produce the various speeds of the blower motor, can have that crimp between that thin wire and the base connector develop some fine corrosion build up. It may be hard to see yet that wire is loose at the crimp.
I've seen this more so in 80's - 90's AC equipped Chrysler Products where the loose connection would even spark/glow causing more heat than it was designed to withstand.
Upon replacement of any/all electric switches or connections involved with our Ford Heat-AC Systems, we use dielectric grease during reassembly.
Hope this helps.
Terry
This condition is allowing your rear end to WALK forward on the Rt side under load and back (off load) in the 2 steer directions.
Your car in essence is steering itself with the rear wheels.
Have all these bushings (RT & LT - if they are the culprit) replaced.
If the brackets have failed or are broken, have them repaired but inspect the LT side too .........
Good Luck.
Terry
I replaced the tps sensor(was bad) and o2 sensor. Can the bad tps cause it to fail alone?.
The diagnosis says 522 - open circuit manual lever position sensor.
Where it is located and could I anyhow check if it is working good or the problem would be only wires?
Does anyone have any other ideas?
Drove it 7 miles to work without a hitch. Ran great, as a matter of fact. Coming home, I noticed it was perfect from a cold start. Used to be a bit sluggish when cold.
I'm assuming I can eliminate plugs, wires, injectors etc. as the problem. Is it a given that the MAF Sensor is no good? Could it be triggering another bad component, like the Idle Air Control, or EGR valve? What am I risking by running it as is, with the MAF Sensor disconnected? I really can't afford to just throw parts at it.
Thanks,
John
How many miles on your engine?
I used spray carb cleaner liberally on the wires. I suppose I should have used the "Tuner Cleaner" instead.
This car only has 125,000 miles on it, but our Northeastern Ohio winters are taking a toll rust-wise. With such a short commute, I can afford to take a hit on gas mileage, but I'd hate to hurt the engine due to a rich mixture, or similar damage.
If I figure this out, I promise to post the answer. Thanks loads for the super prompt reply.
Cleaned it and used needle nosed pliers to work the shaft up and down freely, however the valve doesn't seat in the default state. It's about .05" open, but has free movement to seat. Applying 12VDC in one polarity merely shorts, and the other way hums, but doesn't move. The IAC I have on my bench is a different style, but will hum with either polarity, yet not move up or down. Obviously, I don't know what kind of voltage this thing operates with.
After a struggle of an installation the car started and idled OK. Not super smooth, but OK. Disconnecting the MAF Sensor didn't affect it. Seemed a little "lumpy" while pulling out of the drive, and a bit sluggish once on the road, but smoothed out nicely after the first stop. Idled fine, and accelerated great. Every stop after that was a nice idle. I suppose I should relearn the idle. Hope to be done with it otherwise...
If my car accelerated while braking, I'd get that solved like immediately! Is your brake booster leaking?