The white one I am looking at has the standard 16" wheels and tires. After having the Passat with 17" I would go for the 16". I think people are starting to see what a waste a sunroof really is. And the heat factor in warm places makes it even less desirable. Both our Lexus and Sequoia have them and are never open. Even the salesman at VW says his is noisy and would not get another one.
Good point. Also added headroom without the sunroof. I know when I thought about an Accord Hybrid my head touched the sunroof making it a non starter for me. VW cars generally have better head room than the Japanese counterparts.
For which TDIs is that oil approved? My 06 requires 505.01 . I understand that zero types of Mobil 1 meet that spec but would prefer to be wrong. Please point at any reference which indicates that any mobil 1 oil meets 505.01 VW spec?
I think that Mobil 1 0w40 meets Mercedes MB 229.5, Porsche Approval List 2002, BMW Longlife 01 as well as VW 502.00/505.00/503.01. That's the closest one, but it does NOT have VW 505.01 certification.
For 2009 TDI for sure - the rest certifications and numbers are on the oil bottle label, if you go to PepBoys and look at it....you can peel off the US label off the back and look underneath at the EU label as well....
Does the $400 rear roof spoiler offered for the Sportwagen help keep the back window clear? It may increase mileage a tad at high speeds but I'll be more inclined to buy it if it keeps heavy road dust off the back window.
No - it does not keep the rear window any cleaner than without it... it's a waste of money...it only works at high speeds...higher than those in the U.S... it's simply only a cosmetics....
Bought a 2009 TDI and love it. Having some problems witht he electrical system. So far I shorted out 2 sets of horns and presently in the shop for a new windshild wiper motor. It is 6 month old and blew a rear directional light. Is anyone else having these kinds of problems???
Nope .. bought mine in Feb 2009 and the only electrical problem I had was with a rear door remote lock module - that was replaced under warranty not long ago.
You shorted out 2 sets of hours ? What does that mean?
Earlier VWs had plenty of electrical problems but the newer ones don't. Electrical problem (or cause) is hard to diagnose. All you can do is having those components replaced under warranty - and keep a track of them ...always get a receipt from VW service, even if it is a warranty repair - indicating part number and mileage, when replaced - sometimes that can be used to have those replaced later again even beyond normal warranty period.
So far I have had the airbag fault light come on five times in the year I have owned my 2009 Jetta TDI. The last time I asked that the service department call VW instead of whatever it was that was so ineffective. They did. VW knew the problem, but the dealer had not. Apparently some wires to the wiring harness on the driver's side of the vehicle routinely broke. The repair, finally, involved lengthening the wires and reattaching them. So far so good, but it's only been a week, so my fingers are crossed.
On the Edmunds picture of the Sportwagen- I thought I might be imagining things because it just didn't look as nice as most pics of the 2010 that are available. As far as dimensions, the A3 is quite a bit wider than the Sportwagen- about 8 inches.
Recommended for applications requiring VW 502 00/503 00/503 01/505 00/506 00/506 01 (all VW engines with exception of Unit-Injector /Pumpe-Duse TDI without Longlife Service and without DPF between 1999-2003 and RS/V10-TDI before model year 2006).
So, it looks like this oil is not for your 505 01 (06 TDI).....because you have what they refer as Pumpe-Duse (Unit-Injector) engine....you must be using SAE 5W-40 I believe....
You better check that again. The A3 is 69.5" wide and the Sportwagen is 70.1" wide. Same wheel base but the A3 is 10" shorter than the VW Sportwagen. Here is the correct picture for the 2010 Sportwagen. My dealer had 6 of them last week.
OK, I did some checking and found conflicting information. Saw a couple sources that said about 70 inches and a couple that had it in the 78-inch range. 78 does seem like it would be too wide though.
Some sources measure the width including mirrors which might account for the discrepancy. However, with mirrors extended I would think that it would be even wider but I think that may be the reason. They might include the width with the mirrors folded versus no mirrors.
There could just not be an 8" difference between two similar cars like this. I don't think there would even be an 8" difference between a Taurus and a Jetta.
Every few days my coolant light comes on. I refilled it correctly, and again disappears somewhere.
There are usually a few drops near the bottom pulley. There should be way more coolant either on the ground or somewhere collecting.
No white smoke, oil is not milky. Year or two ago, water pump and thermostat were replaced along with a/c clutch.
I have spend a few hours after running the car, inspecting for leaks. Even under the car a few minutes after taking a long drive (being very careful of course).
Also wiped down the different hoses to be sure dirt was not obstructing my view. Then went back a few days later with a white paper towel looking for coolant.
Have read internal leaks can be common but did not find any solutions.
Thinking the heater control valve may be an issue? That is something I did not check for a vacuum leak or a clog? Guessing at this point.
there's a known issue with the coolant reservoir on some VWs - and/or with the tube/c-clamp/plastic-nozzle that connects: coolant can leak out through a small crack - and leaks into the conduits containing electrical-system wires. it's very expensive repair when this happens. I've seen photos of what to look for on tdclub.com and recommend you consider to investigate that...
I know. I just couldn't resist after you made the comment that newer VWs don't have electrical problems. Not as many as before is probably what you meant.
Exactly ... pardon my English! My wife's Passat few years back had so many of them (electrical problems, that is) that we decided to get rid of the car - then she got a Saab 9-3 convertible and had different kinds of problems, mostly with A/C (but she looked good in it, with rag top down) ...now she is driving Honda Civic EX-L happily ever after....no problems whatsoever. That is an evolution of some sort...
Sometimes the coolant evaporates if there is a small crack somewhere and you cannot find where - one of the areas could also be heater exchange unit - do you smell a coolant inside the car when you put the heater on?
There are some additives out there on the market that you can put in a coolant and it seals the leaks by itself - I have done it before although on much older cars....
If there is a small leak in radiator, for example, you will not see anything dripping because radiator being hot would cause the liquid to evaporate before it drips. In either case, you could "smell" the coolant but you could not see it dripping....
I wish I could be more specific but I have to rely on what the warranty service summary and the shop manager said, which is almost word for word what I wrote.
What I think is important is that if there are recurring problems of the same kind, the dealer maintenance supervisor should be encouraged to call VW to open a "case." VW knows things that have been reported that VW dealer does not -- there was apparently no service bulletin on this maddeningly stubborn problem but VW put their fingers on it right away from past experience, and recommend a repair rather than an outright harness replacement. That's too bad, because they already have replaced the wiring harness at the dealer. Ouch. I'll bet that was expensive. My only desire is that it be fixed and not recur.
Well, since I have 09 VW as well, it would be nice to know.
You can always ask the service technicians or service manager to point the area in your engine compartment and/or ask them to show you, what they have replaced. Replaced items, if under warranty, normally go back to VW technical center for their evaluation. But, once out of warranty, the replaced items must be saved and given to the owner, if you ask for it. I think there is a law to that effect.
But anyway, I just thought it would be nice to know and inspect that area....
Walmart does NOT have Mobil 1 ESP 5W30 that could be used in 09 TDI... that one is only available at PepBoys in 1 liter plastic bottles (at least here in NW Florida) ...you can get 5 bottles for $ 6 each, if you ask the store manager....all Mobil 1s that Walmart has are NOT VW 507 00 approved....be aware!
I agree... one quick way to tell is that the European oil is most often available in LITERE containers... not QUART containers. By no means am I suggesting you do not read the label too. If it does not say that is meets the magic VW numbers - then put it back on the shelf. We all know what using the wrong oil can do to TDI engine. (self-destructing camshaft)
Back in November/December my check engine light came on and the dealership diagnosed it as a bad exhaust flap. Since I was at 45K miles, they said it would not be covered under warranty. I had my car taken in last week to have this part replaced, it ended up costing around $500. Has anyone else experienced a similar issue with the '09? Initially they said the part was on back order, and had no idea when it would be available. Is it common for this part to go bad?
shriftster, each warranty goes beyond 45k except for things like brake pads which are warranteed until 12k, so it seems inconsistent that 45k on the ticker would cause it to be out of warranty.
If it is required for emissions, I would think the warranty would be longer by law. That is disconcerting. I may just keep driving my 21 year old Lexus, as long as it runs good. I can buy a lot of gas for $500. Don't think I spent that much on gas for the car last year.
They do have VW approved M1, however, my mistake, I watch this forum as a future diesel owner (we use different grades of oil) and current gas turbo owner.
Most emission systems have to be warranteed for like 5, 7 or 10 years depending on state. I think the federal minimum is 5 years but I'm no expert....just going by what I've heard/read. Definitely worth checking out warranty wise.
Yeah, that's why he should read the fine print of the warranty. Regardless, $500 sounds MAJOR to me. If not, I'd hate to see what MAJOR components would cost. :sick:
Nope not covered under the Federal 80K Emissions warranty. The only components convered are the Emissions Control Unit ECU, the OBD-II interface and the catalytic converter.
The part in question is there for emission control purposes so if they tell you that you have to pay for it, call the State Atty Generals office and file a complaint against the dealership. That part is only available from VW and it is an exhaust system emission control device. The manufacturer has to cover it under emissions warranty or provide it free under Mag-Moss, as it is only available from them, and is required to keep the vehicle in compliance with the Federal Clean Air Act. No aftermarket exists for that part. That is the key to a Mag Moss violation.
This from TDI Club. It is worth a try to save $500. If it is as this post suggests.
"There are three specified major emission control components, covered for the first 8 years or 80,000 miles of vehicle use on 1995 and newer vehicles:
* Catalytic converters.
* The electronic emissions control unit or computer (ECU).
* The onboard emissions diagnostic device or computer (OBD).
** In the future, there may be other parts or components that qualify for this coverage. Check your owner's manual or warranty book for possible additional coverage.
FURTHER INFO:
"What Should I Do If My First Attempt to Obtain Warranty Coverage Is Denied?
If your first attempt to receive emissions warranty coverage is denied, you should do the following:
1) Ask for a detailed explanation, in writing as to why emissions warranty coverage was denied; and
2) Ask for the name(s) of the person(s) involved in the decision to deny coverage, including anyone from the manufacturer's regional or zone office; and
3) Ask for the name(s) of the person(s) with the manufacturer you should contact to appeal the denial of coverage under the emissions warranty.
4) Contact and, if necessary, write to the person mentioned above requesting coverage and giving the basis for your request. Repeat and continue the appeal process until you are satisfied or have exhausted all means of appeal."
After all the hand wringing and second guessing on VW's bizarre oil ratings for the 2006 Jetta TDI, it seems to me that after 1000's of Oil Wars Forum posts on the subject from people, some who have had to rebuild the problem prone cam shaft and all it's little bits and pieces, that it's actually best not to use ANY of the VW recommended oils.
Unfortunate VW owners have spent piles of cash in expensive top end re-builds in cars that used the VW recommended 505.01 oil since new, with no guarantee that the new cam, bearings and lifters will last any longer that the old ones,
I think VW is just hoping all the old PD 2005.5/2006 BRM engines will all quietly wind up in the crusher soon and everyone will forget about that embarrassing little experiment.
many well-informed TDI owners have come to the opposite conclusion as you, longo2. We say it's best to use only the oil that meets the VW specs. Seems like it's a very small % of those 05.5/06 TDIs that have the "soft camshaft metal" problem. It was just one bad batch o camshafts, according to all the data I've seen, including that from the local dealership which services thousands of TDIs and has only seen one with the "dissolving-camshaft". but hey, they could be lying to me I suppose
Comments
Without sunroof the auto body is more rigid and safe!
I understand that zero types of Mobil 1 meet that spec but would prefer to be wrong. Please point at any reference which indicates that any mobil 1 oil meets 505.01 VW spec?
You shorted out 2 sets of hours ? What does that mean?
Meets:
ACEA C2/C3, ACEA A3/B3, ACEA A3/B4, API CF
Meets the engine test requirements of:
ACEA A5/B5, API SL/SM
Approved:
VW 504 00/507 00; MB-Approval 229.31/229.51; BMW Longlife 04; Peugeot Citroen Automobiles E/D
Recommended for applications requiring VW 502 00/503 00/503 01/505 00/506 00/506 01 (all VW engines with exception of Unit-Injector /Pumpe-Duse TDI without Longlife Service and without DPF between 1999-2003 and RS/V10-TDI before model year 2006).
So, it looks like this oil is not for your 505 01 (06 TDI).....because you have what they refer as Pumpe-Duse (Unit-Injector) engine....you must be using SAE 5W-40 I believe....
There could just not be an 8" difference between two similar cars like this. I don't think there would even be an 8" difference between a Taurus and a Jetta.
Every few days my coolant light comes on. I refilled it correctly, and again disappears somewhere.
There are usually a few drops near the bottom pulley. There should be way more coolant either on the ground or somewhere collecting.
No white smoke, oil is not milky. Year or two ago, water pump and thermostat were replaced along with a/c clutch.
I have spend a few hours after running the car, inspecting for leaks. Even under the car a few minutes after taking a long drive (being very careful of course).
Also wiped down the different hoses to be sure dirt was not obstructing my view. Then went back a few days later with a white paper towel looking for coolant.
Have read internal leaks can be common but did not find any solutions.
Thinking the heater control valve may be an issue? That is something I did not check for a vacuum leak or a clog? Guessing at this point.
My wife's Passat few years back had so many of them (electrical problems, that is) that we decided to get rid of the car - then she got a Saab 9-3 convertible and had different kinds of problems, mostly with A/C (but she looked good in it, with rag top down) ...now she is driving Honda Civic EX-L happily ever after....no problems whatsoever. That is an evolution of some sort...
There are some additives out there on the market that you can put in a coolant and it seals the leaks by itself - I have done it before although on much older cars....
If there is a small leak in radiator, for example, you will not see anything dripping because radiator being hot would cause the liquid to evaporate before it drips. In either case, you could "smell" the coolant but you could not see it dripping....
What I think is important is that if there are recurring problems of the same kind, the dealer maintenance supervisor should be encouraged to call VW to open a "case." VW knows things that have been reported that VW dealer does not -- there was apparently no service bulletin on this maddeningly stubborn problem but VW put their fingers on it right away from past experience, and recommend a repair rather than an outright harness replacement. That's too bad, because they already have replaced the wiring harness at the dealer. Ouch. I'll bet that was expensive. My only desire is that it be fixed and not recur.
You can always ask the service technicians or service manager to point the area in your engine compartment and/or ask them to show you, what they have replaced. Replaced items, if under warranty, normally go back to VW technical center for their evaluation. But, once out of warranty, the replaced items must be saved and given to the owner, if you ask for it. I think there is a law to that effect.
But anyway, I just thought it would be nice to know and inspect that area....
Thanks anyway...
Interpreted: That sucks.
This from TDI Club. It is worth a try to save $500. If it is as this post suggests.
I have an 09 JSW TDI with DSG. This does sound like Emissions Warranty to me!
(NOTE: This info may have been revised!!)
"There are three specified major emission control components,
covered for the first 8 years or 80,000 miles of vehicle use on 1995
and newer vehicles:
* Catalytic converters.
* The electronic emissions control unit or computer (ECU).
* The onboard emissions diagnostic device or computer (OBD).
** In the future, there may be other parts or components that
qualify for this coverage. Check your owner's manual or warranty book
for possible additional coverage.
FURTHER INFO:
"What Should I Do If My First Attempt to Obtain Warranty Coverage Is
Denied?
If your first attempt to receive emissions warranty coverage is
denied, you should do the following:
1) Ask for a detailed explanation, in writing as to why emissions
warranty coverage was denied; and
2) Ask for the name(s) of the person(s) involved in the decision
to deny coverage, including anyone from the manufacturer's
regional or zone office; and
3) Ask for the name(s) of the person(s) with the manufacturer you
should contact to appeal the denial of coverage under the
emissions warranty.
4) Contact and, if necessary, write to the person mentioned above
requesting coverage and giving the basis for your request. Repeat
and continue the appeal process until you are satisfied or have
exhausted all means of appeal."
Unfortunate VW owners have spent piles of cash in expensive top end re-builds in cars that used the VW recommended 505.01 oil since new, with no guarantee
that the new cam, bearings and lifters will last any longer that the old ones,
I think VW is just hoping all the old PD 2005.5/2006 BRM engines will all quietly wind up in the crusher soon and everyone will forget about that embarrassing little experiment.
It was just one bad batch o camshafts, according to all the data I've seen, including that from the local dealership which services thousands of TDIs and has only seen one with the "dissolving-camshaft". but hey, they could be lying to me I suppose