My brakes are new on my 2000 suburban They still squeak when going real slow. and only when first applied. Does anyone know what to do? Also how hard are the emergency brake to replace. at the rear wheels. It won't hold the vehicle and is not seized. Please Help!
Should match right up to the mounting points already in your truck, just make sure the upholstery is a match. I've known of at least 2 other people who have "swapped" middle seats between a Tahoe and Suburban, and it went off without a hitch.
thanks for the info, I have the grey leather interior. or graphite they called it. I believe the one I'm looking at is the same color, but I will check the Vin with the dealer. Thanks again
Last weekend went and got the throttle body cleaner and my daughter removed the air intake and sprayed the cleaner in there and got all the gunk out and it worked like a charm. No more sticking gas pedal. Thanks for your info. = )
The National Highway Transportation Administration list a Service bulletin that is NHTSA Item Number: 10010375 or Service Bulletin Num : 3081 It's symptoms listed are: SERVICE ENGINE SOON LIGHT AND P0300 WHEN TOWING, CRUISING UPHILL OR ON HARD ACCELERATION. Another site states you can get that a check engine light and misfire due to moisture in your Evap canister.
EVAP - MIL ON/Engine Misfiring & DTC P0300 Stored
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-024
Date: June, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: Engine Misfire, Water in Fuel, Service Engine Soon Lamp illuminates, DTC P0300 Set ( Replace EVAP Canister Vent Hose Asm/Replace EVAP Canister If Necessary)
Models: 1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup Trucks (Silverado and Sierra) Built Prior to August 31, 1999
Condition Some drivers may comment about the Service Engine Soon lamp illuminating. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may have stored a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0300, Engine Misfire Detected. The engine may be exhibiting a misfire, possibly in the # 7 and # 8 cylinders. This condition may also affect the six cylinder models. This condition may be more prevalent in areas with high amounts of rainfall.
Cause Diagnosis of the fuel system may reveal the presence of water, possibly in the fuel rail near the # 7 and # 8 fuel injector. Water entering through the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister vent solenoid may cause this condition. Because of this, an engine misfire may develop.
Correction A new EVAP canister vent hose assembly, P/N 15759042, that includes the valve and the solenoid has been developed to correct this condition. The new solenoid has a revised mounting bracket and a sealant has been applied to the top lid seal surface of the solenoid to address water intrusion. Use the procedure and the part numbers listed below.
If standard diagnostics do not lead to the resolution of the misfire, do the following steps:
1. Remove the fuel rail at the # 7 and # 8 fuel injector from the engine and drain the fuel into a suitable container. Inspect the drained fuel for the presence of water. Refer to the Fuel Rail Assembly Replacement procedure in the applicable Service Manual.
2. If the presence of water is detected in the fuel rail, remove the fuel tank and inspect the fuel for the presence of water. Refer to the Fuel Tank Replacement procedure in the applicable Service Manual.
3. If water is present in the fuel tank (other than from a water enriched fuel fill), replace the EVAP canister vent hose assembly. Refer to the EVAP Vent Valve Replacement procedure in the applicable Service Manual.
4. Disconnect the EVAP canister line connections and remove the canister. Inspect for the presence of water at the canister line connections and inside the canister. If water is present, replace the EVAP canister. Refer to the EVAP Canister Replacement procedure in the applicable Service Manual.
5. Flush and clean the fuel system. Refer to the Fuel System Cleaning procedure in the applicable Service Manual.
Umm something sounds fishy, My '99 had similar sounds that sounded more like a lose heat shield or a pice of tin flopping around. A few days later the transmission was gone! Pulled up to the stop sign, stepped on the gas and -no go! When it's cold crawl under it and see if it's the shield. When it warm hold a rag over the tailpipe and listen, step on the gas - listen, try putting trans in drive, park, reverse? Notice any change? Louder or quieter? If it's the converter itself there won't be much exhaust output and it could be plugged up! Converter - doubtful, Shield - not likely. If the nosie increases with motor's rpm's I'd look at the tranny. Spend $50 or so and get a new filter and fluid and open up the old filter and see what's inside. Good Luck!
Have you changed the water pump lately? I changed my '96 and got the heater hoses backwards and after a few cold days with no heat I finally figured it out. Temp gauge was fine but no heat in the cab! Do-oh!
Big time voltage drop there Jeff! Have you noticed anything starnge with the amp guage? I would get a good one if you don't have one already and see if anything happens while it's running. How about when your using certain electrical devices like - wipers, heater, lights, radio? Any change there? Have you added any new electrical devices lately? DVD? Inverter? It sounds like there's a unprotected 12v lead going straight to ground and periodically draining the battery. If the guage is indicating a massive drain, or even a VOM, start removing fuses one at a time and check to see if there's any change in voltage ir amps. Have fun!
I have no power window, door lock or courtesy light on the front passenger door. (not sure about mirror) Also the radio on till door open feature isn't working either after the ignition is turned off. I'm thinking it's a bag ground for the door or the door open switch is bad but I can't find either. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Does anyone know how to reset the security system on a 2003 Suburban. As of today my car will nto start. The security light is blinking and when I try to start the car it won't start. The battery has juice, I think the security system is keeping it from starting but I do not know how to reset the passlock. Please help, Pdowney
I have a 94 Burb 4x4 1500 with 240k on the clock. It stumbles sometimes and seems to have a lack of power...sometimes it will totally fall on its face when I get on the gas..it even backfires from carb and exhaust sometimes. I have recently replaced fuel pump, air filter, plugs(which were really good looking) cap and rotor. I haven't done the fuel filter yet but will soon. What could this problem be..it dosent smoke or knock but just seems to have a lack of power and towing capability and the backfire thing. Could it be fuel filter..injectors, sensor etc? I mean the thing shouldn't have a problem getting to 60 fairly quick should it, seems that getting onto the freeway I have to really get into the gas to get it up to speed...I'm a newbie to these things so any info helps!!!
I'm going to purchase one of the above in a K2500 (gas not diesel) and will be towing my Bobcat with it. My question is which model is most reliable. Assume they all have the same mileage and I don't care about values because I'm going to keep it till it croaks. I'm just interested in the best mechanical vehicle as I know there are differences in the years of manufacture. Any suggestions would be most appreciated.
I own 97 gmc 1500 suburban that just started same exact problem as you. It is the turn signal switch in steering column. Unfortunately part is between $200-$300 not including labor. I think i will just turn up radio until switch becomes inoperable altogether. I am a mechanic and was dumbfounded by symptoms, but a friend at gmc dealer helped diagnose problem. There was a recall announced recently by gm for newer suvs experiencing similar signal problems. Good luck.
I have coddled my 97 1500 for the past 8 years, 54,000 miles, even took it to an Island for 3 years, and now Im ready to buy a camper and wander a bit. Problem is that the trailer hitch weight is 585, and GVWR is 7500. The burb is rated at 500 hitch and GVWR is 5000. Am I doooomed to track down a three quarter ton or a V10 Excursion. Man I hate to let go. My local dealers are just plain greedy, buy this or this or this, and are less than helpful.
GM earned five top model segment awards: Buick Century (premium midsize car), Chevrolet Malibu/Malibu Maxx (entry midsize car) and Chevrolet Suburban (full-size SUV).
If you go to link titleyou will find the BEST info on pulling an RV. This site includes trailer weights, towing weights, calculations. Do not beleive what anyone tells you, including a dealer, about weights. The trailer you are talking about is a little too heavy!...but there is hope...see it all on this site.
99 Burb 1500 4X 2000 Trail Harbor -- 380 tongue weight, 4160 dry and 7830 loaded. It pulls like a toy wagon with mine.
GRAYSUB, Thanks loads for the reply, I can't seem to get the link to open, and I am looking foeward to the info, can you give me the web page, and I will open it myself.
I have a 2003 Suburban with 40,000 mi and with the climate control on I get a sound that sounds like the fan hitting the shroud. It lasts a few seconds and goes away when you back off the gas. It does not do it with the a/c off. I checked the fan clearance and it is fine. The dealer has no clue. Any ideas?
I have been looking to try and solve the same problem. It does appear to be heat related and when engine is cold it runs fine then it gets almost dangerous to drive in case you have to pull out in frount of incoming traffic. I have changed battery igniton control module ( whcih made it run great for about 2 days) coil rotor cap rotor wires spark plugs and nada we are all stil stymied let me know what y9u hear
My 99 suburban died today. It has 97,000+ miles. Mechanic says it's the fuel pump & replacement is over 800. Does this sound right? I looked up fuel pumps on the internet & found some as low as $175 for aftermarket or OEM parts. Help - I know nothing about machanical issues.
My 2001 Suburban is currently at the dealership with the same problem, fortunately its under the extended warranty. I was told the fuel pump was over 850.OO. I would shop around, the dealerships obviously are way over-priced. Good-Luck.....
Turn on your key and leave it on for 10 min. Turn off. Do this 3 time. The third time leave it off for about 3 or 4 min. then try and starte it. good Luck
Check your fuel filter. It is almost certainly plugged with that kind of mileage and almost always overlooked.. Cheap and easy to do and it was the answer on my vehicle.
I have the off road version of the 1995 chevy suburban. I would try to find one like it. it came with front and rear lockers, trans. cooler, 5.7L classic 350 pushin 240 horses which aint bad for a burban. Ive had to pull people out the mud and havent even gottin stuck on 2wd.
I have an 04 silver birch suburban. It seems like every bug and rock chip the paint. I even have dents on the hood and back fenders from rocks that were to tiny to see. I traded in a 99 that had 100,000 mi. and had no paint problems.
Recently my 1995 Chevy Suburban's (rear brake and turn signal) fuse has blown. Every attempt to correct this issue has resulted in a shortage as well. What are my most economical options to resolve this issue? :confuse:
I have this same type of noise coming from the rear I think. It can last for 2-20 seconds roughly. Did you ever get any info on this? I know if I take it to the dealer they won't know what I am talking about. Thanks for any input>>>> JJ
The bolts that hold the tilt collar onto the end of the steering column have come loose. The upper part of the column has to be disasembled and these bolts tughtened.
I have an 01' suburban and the engine was replaced about 15,000 miles ago. It started stalling on sharp turns so I took it to the dealer and they said it needs a computer update to correct the problem.I feel like this should have been done when they installed the engine. Has anyone else had this problem
I have a 2002 Suburban LT 2wd with aprox. 42,000 mi and am having the same problem. Dealer has checked the serp. Belt and tensioners but has no idea what is the cause. Only recommendation is that perhaps A/C freon is sludging over, to be honest I am not sure they have any clue. Anyone else having this noise??
My 96 4WD Suburban is on its second set of Firestones. Five out of the eight have failed due to tread separation. Unfortunately they weren’t part of the Firestone tread separation recall of a few years ago. Before you ask why I would buy a second set, its because I got them, wheels and all, at a swap meet before the first set began to separate. My question is, what are the best tires out there are right now? I do mostly highway driving pulling a car trailer with an occasional snow/4WD.
I have a '99 Suburban 2500 4 wheel drive, 454 with 139,000 miles. Has been taken care of nicely as it was a fleet car for 4 years. I recently towed a travel trailer with a weight of roughly 7500lbs. Towed effortlessly for about 20 miles @ 65mph then during a slight climb, shifted all the down to 2nd. When it leveled off it tried to shift back to third, it was like the tranny was not engaging. As the speed bled off, the engine shifted back to second. This process repeated itself over and over again. I towed to RV at 3500 RPM around 60mph in second for about 90 miles. All gauges indicated normal. When I got to civilization I came to a stop light and tried to accelerate when the light changed. The engine backfired, and in an extremely slow fashion finally started to lurch forward. Chugging. After I got it home, after about 2 hours, I pulled th RV to our Storage unit 6 miles away and the car preformed flawlessly. Towing effortlessly. When I unhooked the RV, the car ran perfectly. Prior to this ordeal; In the morning however, the car can hesitate and run roughly for a time. Then a-ok. Things done to the car in the last 2 months; new fuel filter, K&N air filter, cleaned injectors at a dealership, It has 5,000 miles on new platinum plugs and new wires. Religious about fluid upkeep and replacement. Any Ideas?
I recently purchased a 1989 GMC R2500 Suburban with a 454. Most of my experience is with classic Mopar vehicles. That said, I would like to get some suggestions on what I can do to get this bad boy running at its best. I noticed that it only has a 2 barrel (fuel injected) carburetor. Is this the best way to go (again, bear with my in-experience)? I also noticed that it has single exhaust... what an injustice What type of manifolds/exhaust performs best with this type of engine?
Oh, any other performance enhancing suggestions would be greatly welcomed.
I have a 2004 Suburban LT and have been having electrical problems. First it was the 4-wheel drive (service 4 wheel drive light came on, would be in 4 wheel low when I started the car - never used the 4 wheel drive to this day), then the fuel gages, speedometer, tachometer, miles to empty and radio/hvac presets all went crazy. Still are. Been in the shop 8 times. Filed a lemon law complaint through the BBB. BBB agreed with me there was electrical problem but I received the notification to late and GM "declined to accept" the decision of the BBB. GM has not offered one thing to help me. If anyone else is dealing with these issues I would love to hear about it.
Have a 2000 2WD. Have had Bridgestone Dueler H/L UniTaq tires, over 50K miles, with treat now for another 10K. Outperformed the OEM Firestones. I've been happy.
Have a 2000 2WD LS with 105K miles, 80% highway. Has been great, only significant repair was replacement of two injectors. I want to try and get another 50K/2 years out of it, but reliability is very important to us. It's had just usual "book" maintenance but what additional measures could I take to reduce risk of breakdown and keep performance up? It's due for A/T fluid/filters, fuel filter, new plugs, but in addition I've thought about: serpentine belt, water hoses, PCV valve, shocks, water pump. Do any or all of these make sense? Other suggestions?
Looking at purchasing a 1999. Started doing some web research and ran across all sorts of brake and tranny problems....are these inherent to the Suburban or am I seeing just a small spectrum of owners? Any insight would be much appreciated. I'm dumping a '95 4Runner that has been nothing but trouble since 70K mi...want to get into something that won't have me at the dealership every other month!
My dealer just replaced my a/c compressor and belt tensioner and the problem is gone.They replaced this under warranty even though I was 6,000 mi over but it was only 2 yrs old. At replacement I had 42,000 mi's .There must be some problem in this part because it should not fail so early. Good luck.
I have an '02 Suburban that vibrates at speeds above 60 mph. The vibration is mild and can be noticed best if there is a bottle of water sitting in the cup holder. The vibration is steady and the pitch doesn't change with acceleration. Even if the tranny is switched into neutral while at speed the vibration remains the same. It starts to grind on you on long trips. I replaced the tires and had the drive shaft balance checked. Still no change. There are only 45000 miles on this rig. Any ideas out there?
I have a 96 suburban with rear air. R134a system. Checked the pressure with a guage I bought from O'reilly's. pressure read slightly over 45 pounds, engine was really hot max a/c on. Is this pressure right for a dual air system, or should it be higher. Air just doesn't cool the burb, takes a long time but the instructions that came with the gauge says the pressure is right to a little high. Also when i push in the max ac button on the dash, the velocity of the air coming out of the ducts does not change, is this common on the suburbans.
2000 Suburban bought new, at 50K miles, fuel pump was whining very bad so dealer convinced me to pay to replace the pump before failure: $800-900. Soon after this, the ABS / Brake light comes on intermittetly. Assessment: The BCM (brake control module) is going bad. Figure on about $1200 per the dealer.
Question: I have heard of many similar cases of the fuel pump issue and failures while driving on interstates thus no power steering or brakes - SAFETY ISSUE! The BCM is also a failure that just shouldn't happen ( you still have brakes but no ABS control). Is anyone aware of a TSB, warranty, recall, action being taken to get GM to cover these issues?
My truck does the same thing, I did not get the drive shaft balanced so now I know not to do that, mine is so slight though that I really dont mind. Mine is a 1994 1500. Also I need a new driver seat for this truck, does anyone have a direct bolt in for the 1994 Chevy Suburban?
I have the '99 that was th Towing nightmare on previous thread. It turned out to be the oil in the K&N oil filter clogged an air intake sensor and became the root of my problem. Cleaned sensor and the problem was solved. I have loved the 1999. Tranny and 454 are A-OK. 135K miles. What model are you looking at?
Comments
No more sticking gas pedal. Thanks for your info. = )
EVAP - MIL ON/Engine Misfiring & DTC P0300 Stored
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-024
Date: June, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Engine Misfire, Water in Fuel, Service Engine Soon Lamp illuminates, DTC P0300 Set ( Replace EVAP Canister Vent Hose Asm/Replace EVAP Canister If Necessary)
Models:
1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup Trucks (Silverado and Sierra) Built Prior to August 31, 1999
Condition
Some drivers may comment about the Service Engine Soon lamp illuminating. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may have stored a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0300, Engine Misfire Detected. The engine may be exhibiting a misfire, possibly in the # 7 and # 8 cylinders. This condition may also affect the six cylinder models. This condition may be more prevalent in areas with high amounts of rainfall.
Cause
Diagnosis of the fuel system may reveal the presence of water, possibly in the fuel rail near the # 7 and # 8 fuel injector. Water entering through the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister vent solenoid may cause this condition. Because of this, an engine misfire may develop.
Correction
A new EVAP canister vent hose assembly, P/N 15759042, that includes the valve and the solenoid has been developed to correct this condition.
The new solenoid has a revised mounting bracket and a sealant has been applied to the top lid seal surface of the solenoid to address water intrusion. Use the procedure and the part numbers listed below.
If standard diagnostics do not lead to the resolution of the misfire, do the following steps:
1. Remove the fuel rail at the # 7 and # 8 fuel injector from the engine and drain the fuel into a suitable container. Inspect the drained fuel for the presence of water. Refer to the Fuel Rail Assembly Replacement procedure in the applicable Service Manual.
2. If the presence of water is detected in the fuel rail, remove the fuel tank and inspect the fuel for the presence of water. Refer to the Fuel Tank Replacement procedure in the applicable Service Manual.
3. If water is present in the fuel tank (other than from a water enriched fuel fill), replace the EVAP canister vent hose assembly. Refer to the EVAP Vent Valve Replacement procedure in the applicable Service Manual.
4. Disconnect the EVAP canister line connections and remove the canister. Inspect for the presence of water at the canister line connections and inside the canister. If water is present, replace the EVAP canister. Refer to the EVAP Canister Replacement procedure in the applicable Service Manual.
5. Flush and clean the fuel system. Refer to the Fuel System Cleaning procedure in the applicable Service Manual.
Pdowney
:sick:
Toyota, GM Top J.D. Power Quality Survey (Inside Line)
Steve, Host
99 Burb 1500 4X
2000 Trail Harbor -- 380 tongue weight, 4160 dry and 7830 loaded. It pulls like a toy wagon with mine.
Steve, Host
LMMAN
What are my most economical options to resolve this issue? :confuse:
tidester, host
Oh, any other performance enhancing suggestions would be greatly welcomed.
serpentine belt, water hoses, PCV valve, shocks, water pump. Do any or all of these make sense? Other suggestions?
Question: I have heard of many similar cases of the fuel pump issue and failures while driving on interstates thus no power steering or brakes - SAFETY ISSUE! The BCM is also a failure that just shouldn't happen ( you still have brakes but no ABS control). Is anyone aware of a TSB, warranty, recall, action being taken to get GM to cover these issues?
Also I need a new driver seat for this truck, does anyone have a direct bolt in for the 1994 Chevy Suburban?