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Ford Mustang (2005 & newer) Problems and Solutions
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Comments
historic data. Note that Mechanical Quality is better in '04
and Feature and Accessory Quality is also better than '05
Overall the scores are higher, unless you weigh in mechanical as most crucial element. 2004 would be my bet for the best year of the Stang for reliability.
___
J.D. Power Overall 4
J.D. Power Mechanical Quality 5
J.D. Power Body & Interior Quality 2
J.D. Power Feature and Accessory Quality 5
J.D. Power Performance 3
J.D. Power Creature Comforts 2
J.D. Power Style 4
Not say that the car in 2005 is not improved in performance, and all that good stuff, but if I am looking at the basics of will the car have problems, or be easier to live with down the road, stats seem to favor the old model.
I fully understand all the new selling points, but I am still not 100% sold on new vs. previous. Seems to me like I still like some of the old styling too. Both have their points, I guess. I do like the '68 and '69 as classics. -Loren
~~ end quote ~~
Hummmmmm, more strange statistics from Consumer Reports customers. I could see the engine as a big difference, but not the rest of the car. Maybe it is the tale of two different owners - the GT owners being more fanatics??? I only know of one owner, and he has had no problems with his GT. My guess is that there is likely people having problems with any new car, be it the V6 or V8 Mustang, or a Chrysler 300, or a.... As for the Nissan 350Z, the first year or so, they had terrible problems with the tire wear. That strange high doors, and closed in feeling ain't for me. On the outside, it looks good. Wouldn't own one. Rather have a Stang, new or past model, a 2007 Camaro or Challenger. The 300ZX, back in 1995 was cool though.
Loren
Uncanny, isn't it?
Why is it so hard to break up a long rambling post into 2-3 separate paragraphs? Makes them much easier to read.....
Speaking from my personal experience, I've only had my driver seat lever break and twice problems with fueling.
I have an '05 automatic, purchased in Feb. 2005 (built in Dec. 2004). I have the same shudder issue, but its most prominent after long runs at high speeds (i.e., driving from Virginia to Pennsylvania on the interstate). After stopping the car after long runs and then hitting the gas nothing happens . . . until the car shudders and then off I go. I've had it to the dealer twice and since they can't "replicate" what I'm talking about they don't know what to do. Has anyone figured out what the issue is? Many thanks!
-Sarah
In Dec. I drove my new mustang GT convertible (5 speed manual)to a Christmas dinner 3 hours from my home. Loving the car all the way there, and proud to show it off, esp. to my dad who is a diehard American made only car fanatic...(foreign cars to him are off-brand)
He drove the car just 1/2 mile down road and the first words out of his mouth to me were "you better get that transmission checked" I was in denial and didn't listen.
Until today...the transmission is making a pretty obvious whining sound in 4th gear, and a knocking noise at times. It's a very noisy transmission. The Ford dealership kept the car for a day to test drive it and told me that it was making several noises and probably needed a transmission. They referred me back to the dealer I purchased the car from (brand new) and I have an appointment for them to check the car out on Monday Jan 16th.
Needless to say, I'm sick over it. I'm hoping for a completely new transmission, since it is a new car with only 4500 miles on it. I've treated the car like a baby and keep it garaged. It's my second car and I don't even drive it to work everyday.
I was so excited for the new mustang and love the looks of the car. I think its the best thing Ford has done since the 65 model. I just hope these problems are just a small handful and that Ford is responsible enough to make them right. I paid 32,000.00 for the 05 GT convertible and I want my money's worth!!!
Second problem was the CD changer, it was draining the battery, it kept switching over even when the car was off, no problems changing that out, but it also went in for the convertible top, it would go up and down at an angle, so they put a new frame on it, of course that was backordered and it went back three times before they could get it right.
Third, or should I say fourth, that popping noise in the steering, mine had that, I forget what it was, but those were replaced and again backordered.
Fifth, and currently, the gas problem, I thought I was going crazy trying to put gas in this thing!! Well the tank is ordered and is set to come in on Thursday, I am sure it will be much later though.
Don't get me wrong, I love this car!! I baby it to death, I have had it almost a year now and have only 4500 miles on it and have added some accessories, including a under carriage light kit, but this is sooo wrong!! and so unfair!! I expected problems beings I was buying a new design but geez, when does it end??
I could gripe more about the quality of the interior but you get my point. I do plan on writing Ford Motor Company, but I am sure they will just laugh at me, but it will make me feel better.
Thanks for listening!
Cathy
Problem is I bought the car in Mass. and had it shipped to the UK so Ford won't honor any warranty (I've taken out an expensive UK-based warranty)
Appears a new tank might be required so it will be interesting to see how I do this. Have contacted the selling dealer in Stoneham but don't hold out much hope. This is an obvious design defect which really should n't have happened and has detracted from what has so far been a great car (V8 GT Manual)
Oh, it also clonks at the front when driving slowly, for example in car parks or when backing off the drive.
Car is very well received in the UK where Ford Dealers don't even sell this car even on special order. (They'd rather you paid $30,000 for their sporty Ford Focus)
2013 Mustang GT, 2001 GMC Yukon Denali
Here is everything that is wrong with my car:
1 - Makes front end clunck when turning.
2 - gas tank problem
3 - radio resets itself when car sits for 48 hours without running and it is below freezing. Also, the volume gets stuck on HIGH and wont turn off or down (I almost went deaf)
4 - driver's side handle sticks out and wont go flush
5 - had one broken windshield (just a little pebble hit it) and a front tire blow out on the NJ parkway within one week of each other ($350 for the windshield from safelite auto glass and the tire is the same as a dodge caravan so it was cheap - 65$ installed.
6 - Air vent - foot/floor position doesnt work - it blows air out of the defrost instead and makes my windows fog up.
7 - When it's cold out - I cant put the emergency break on - it freezes and the car burns rubber when I drive.
8 - when its cold out the windows - you know how it goes down an inch and up an inch when you open and close the doors - well, they freeze in position and then when you close the door, the rubber freezes and the door/window isnt flush and doesnt close properly.
9 - there is water that stays in the foot well inside the door and only on the driver's side.
10 - if its humid out, the car make a sound when idling - it kindo of revvs or rumbles and sounds horrible at stoplights.
I just cant bring myself to bring it in for service - I cant part with my car for one minute. I love it - and the problems are a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] - but so is parking it zimbabwe when shopping and walking for a mile to shop just so I dont get a door ding. I love my car and dont want any one, any valet, my husband, or especially a mechanic to touch it ! Does anyone else feel the same and have all of the same problems?? :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
I had a brake brace that was installed incorrectly, it would rub a little on the drive line as pressure would be put on the frame. 2 minutes with the service department and a socket wrench has fixed the problem.
My CD changer does skip just a tiny bit. My understanding is that you have to be gentle with these units.
So far I have been very pleased with my purchase and so for it seems that the 06 cars have far fewer problems than the 05's. But going from my Honda Accord which ran for 200,000 miles with no problems, I took no gamble and opted for the extended warranty
If it has any major trouble outside of the 65,000 well we will just wait and see...
I have the exact same problem. Have you heard any news!!!??? I've been looking all over for someone else with this problem. Please contact. Me.
I too have been having the same vibrations. A long time friend of mine who has owned and raced mustangs all his life said that he at one time had at similar problem, to which the solution was a loose alternator housing. Once replaced, it was fine. Apparantly the frequency produced at certain RPMS caused it to chatter, or rattle.
Anyway, I need help. Has anyone found the answer to that problem yet.
Also, it can't be due to the exhaust, or the rear, I have a JBA exhaust, and 4:10 gears, and I still have the same problem.
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The New Stang is a good buy, and overall pleasing enough to look at. Call me crazy, but I like the old style rounded dash and interior, and the direction of going forward with new styles. If you want a modern day version of the 60' car, like a restored, then updated suspension and such, the new Challenger looks to be that as well. If I was head at Ford, I would have some fairly radical styling updates to come out in a year or two. This would keep the momentum up and Chevy and Dodge off balance. You can stay too retro, and go nowhere. The new SLK has some retro style, while looking modern.
The steps taken from '65 to '85 seem to be represent the era, though we won't talk about the Pinto era. The '85 to '95 say looks like a modern rendition of the Pony. 2005, is one giant leap back in time. Almost like a time warp to see this car, though it looks kinda plain since I am familiar with the real ones of '69 and '69. While I do like the '69 Corvette, I am happy to see they are progressing into new eras in designs inside and out. The C5 introduced an even easier car to live with, while at the same time, giving yet another new look to Vettes.
I no longer own any bell bottom pants, though I do like Frisbees!
Have fun, and may you stay forever young!
:shades: Loren
Cathy
The message center features trip computer, instant fuel economy, average fuel economy, distance to empty, average MPH, gallons used, and a host of menu items when doing diagnostics. It also displays messages about the cars "health," such as oil pressure low/high, traction control activated, parking brake on, high water temp, low fuel - ## miles to empty, etc. There's LOTS of info that can be displayed there. And, of course, the guage color selections if equipped.
Flowmaster is a great company, I've used them on my other Stangs, but if you want my opinion for the 05/06, go with JBA. Flowmasters just don't seem as good for this car.
I have JBA, and they sound great. They have a nice, deep growl to them, and are definitly mean when you get on the throttle. I'm not sure if you are looking to do any more mods, but if you get a pair of JBA shorty headers, you will be thrilled with the sound after putting those on.
For those of you who also may experience the vibrations at 1200-1300 & 3100-3300 RPM range, please take note.
YOU MUST REPLACE YOUR CROSSMEMBER!!!
I'll explain. The crossmember is a piece that holds up your transmission. It is located right after the cats on the exhaust. The exhaust has 2 metal hooks(Hangers), one of each side, that attach to rubber mounts or brackets that are attached to the crossmemeber. The only way to get these mounts is to have the crossmember ordered.
Ford could not figure it out, so I brought my car to another guy who does all my performance work. He found what looked like the problem, and upon talking to the Ford dealership, they would not cover it.
If you have this problem, see if Ford will cover it, if not, DO NOT let them install it for you. They wanted to charge me $300 for the part and install. The guy I took my car to, charged me $150 even, for the part and install, and in 30 minutes, the car was done, and no vibrations.
I bought a K-member from BMR and had to return it because it was designed mainly for drag racing. I am looking for a new lightweight one that can be used for road racing/autocross. So far, it looks like Granatelli is the only game in town for that, and their unit actually costs quite a bit less than BMR's.
Anyway, please clarify.
ARE THERE ANY PROBLEMS WITH THIS CAR?
1.) Is the paint good? Do you easily get swirlies on the tungsten? How often do you get chips? The paint on these cars is known to suck... sorry (Ive owned one)
2.) Are the CLUNKS and TICKS still there? This was a huge issue with the 05? Any 06 owners experience these sounds?
3.) Any other weird problems being noticed?
4.) How's your MPG on this car? If I remember they weren't too bad
Thanks!
2) A huge issue? A bit dramatic, don't you think?
3) No. No "weird" problems at all.
4) MPG is great for a 300HP V8 with only 5 gears and no skip-shift.
i figured those problems would be fixed by now
do you have the tungsten? how is the paint on that?
Why would labor be double that? Where do you live? Have you actually looked at how easy they come out? Life the car...get a brace to hold up the transmission, and the it the k-member comes out with I believe I watched him take out 5-6 bolts, then it just pulls off the hangers and thats it. 20-30 mins. I live in NJ. If you live there, I can give you the guys number to his shop.
I can't wait to get a new driveshaft. I hear the stock one is 46 pounds! I just haven't found a good, reasonably priced aluminum one yet. I'd actually prefer carbon fiber, but from the looks of it, the carbon fiber units aren't much lighter than the aluminum, thanks to the heavy end pieces they use. They are supposed to be vibration resistant, though, which is a definite plus.
I didn't know the K-member could be changed out that quickly. Thanks for the heads up! Otherwise, I'm sure someone would've tried to lie and say it takes HOURS to do. If I had a lift and/or some way to hold up the engine, I'd do it myself.
I don't live in NJ.
K-member
I'm going to see if I can find a picture of what I meant.
Crossmember
If you look closely at the right exhaust pipe, you will see a metal hanger coming out of it, and going into a black rubber mount attached to that silver bracket, thats the crossmemeber. If faulty, it causes vibrations, and needs to be replaced. Sorry for any confusion.
I always thought the purpose of it was to reduce the humidity of the air so it would clear the windshield faster, but it may be only used to prevent the lubricants in the AC pump from settling. If you were to go through an entire winter without using the AC, you may find that the compressor doesn't want to turn due to a lack of lubrication. Running the compressor ensures that the lubricant in the system is evenly distributed.
As for the other problems with body noises, your best bet is to get a friend to help you diagnose the cause. Have them sit in the back and do a test drive. Have them sit up front and then do a test drive. Heck - have them in the trunk and do a test drive. I'd be willing to bet they would have a pretty good idea where the noise was coming from after only an hour of work. The service manager isn't going to do this for you - his interest is in not wasting resources on warantee problems which don't necessarily make the dealership any money. The more information you gather for him, the easier it is for him to find and diagnose the problem. Don't get bent out of shape because he won't bend over backward to do it for you - you're happiness doesn't write his paycheck(at least not directly).
Finally, I do have to disagree with the casual comments that this is a 'high-end' car. In the grand scheme of what you pay and what you get for that payment, this car is cheap. Sure it costs more that the $2k Ford was asking for it back in 1964, but what other competing car are you going to buy *today* that gives you the same features and performance? None. Even the challenger when/if it comes out is going to be $35k at least if not more.
That said, I like the car. No problems with the '06 V6 PP I picked up in Dec., yet.
any time the rotors are turned or replaced or the pads are replaced, the bedding-in procedure needs to be done...it's a small price to pay for no pulsation in the brake pedal.
some shops will do the procedure after a brake job when the car is on the lift with a machine...ask the service manager if they do it...i suspect that more and more shops are doing the procedure themselves, due to so many customers' coming back complaining about the pulsation after getting new brakes.
Daniel
Loren
D
That noise you speak off, you sure its just when you are turning? Does it do it all the time, or mainly on really cold days?