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Comments
But my truck never got hot. Not even once,now I have a new
w/p as well as new pads and new rotors on the rear. I've heard
that if you get 83k miles out of your brakes, you should be
happy but today a guy told me he didn't need them until he
had 143k miles. I do a lot of city driving and I understand
the demand that puts on a truck. My wallet is a lot lighter too!
thanks for your advice Shark, I apprec it.
why didnt it shake & shimmy. Their response was because they were only
worn down, not warped. This shop has a rep for being honest but several years
ago they were bought by some larger company and maybe the "neighborhood
shop" mentality is gone. BTW could the w/p seep fluid for a long time before
finally failing or is it a sudden death event?
thnks again./dc
FYI: for future reference, the min. thickness is stamped in the rotor. But that's just so someone doesn't turn them below that and make them too thin.
Usually seeping is a sign of impending failure in my experience. When the seal goes, then you lose coolant fast.
I am a newbie and need all the help I can get. I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe LS with 143,000 miles on it. Yesterday morning when I got in it there was an awful ticking noise and it was running bad. The oil pressure is usually great, if anything it runs a little high. Yesterday, it was running around 30. I took it directly to my brother. The ticking sounded like it was coming from the valve cover on the drivers side. He pulled it off and it was thick with milky looking oil. We cleaned them up and replaced the gaskets. When I drove home last night the ticking was gone. I got up this morning the ticking is back the oil pressure is down again and now the low coolant light is on and the temperature is down slightly. Am I in real trouble here? What kind of problem am I looking at? Any suggestions would be appreciated. I am not a big money girl and my car isn't throwing any codes. I don't want to keep driving and do any damage. :sick:
Thanks in advance!
Susie
Since your coolant light is also on, you have a definite problem. Do not drive it.
Regarding your rear AC, is the symptom that the fan speed does not adjust and blow higher volumes of air? or is the symptom that the air flow is correct, but it's not cold enough?
These lights come on together and stay on at various times. Can anyone provide a diagnosis?
Thank You
Thanks
Brake Warning indicator is set by:
- BCM body control module detects park brake is engaged
- BCM detects low brake fluid condition
- IPC performs bulb check
- EBCM detects ABS disablilng malfunction
ABS indicator is set by:
- EBCM detects an ABS disabling malfunction
- IPC performs bulb check
- IPC detects a loss of serial data communication w/EBCM
- a DTC is set during previous ignition cycle
When they come on, they come on together.
Jar of black juice w/what looks like little black turds in it.
Hope this helps. You should be able to find something in writing, somewhere
on-line, that backs this up.
Long shots might be a) a loose gas cap or b) some kind of vacuum leak, loose hose, etc.
If the light went out briefly when you fiddled with the cap, you might have a vacuum leak or other problem with the evaporative emissions system. The code would tell you this.
Arrie
Whitall,
Did you ever find out what the knocking noise was. I have an '04 Tahoe and I'm experiencing the same situation. Your post was 03/05/2008, so you probably don't have the same Tahoe. If you were able to get it diagnosed, I would be very interested to know what you found out.
The knocking noise that I experienced seemed to go away when I started using the A/C only. It occurred most often when the heater was running. I haven't got a complete diagnosis of the problem yet.
Check the fuses in the fuse box under the hood on the right side and make sure they are still working. If you still need to pull the dash apart to replace the switch, it does pry loose relatively easy with a flat screw driver, just be careful. All the dash switches are in unplugable panels. Where does it come apart? Right around the front edge of the dash cover is a seam. Try you hands at first pulling on it and if it pops loose then you know you are on the right track. Just take your time and be careful. Make sure you can get the replacement switch first from an auto parts place.
The blower motor is a dc motor, and you adjust speed of a dc motor by putting a resistance in series with the motor to drop voltage. That gets hot when using, which is why it's put in the duct work to keep cooled.
This is pretty common across most all vehicles, which have some sort of resistor bank or control module, This is what goes bad 99% of the time, not the switch.
kiawah speaks facts. I personally had the same problem with a Pontiac Grand AM. I lost lowest 3 speeds.
Resistors are mounted in the side of the duct work at the blower to cool them down and the resistors for the lowest fan speed always burn first as they get least amount cooling with lowest fan speeds, of course, and because the voltage drop, i.e. resistor heating is the biggest on them.
Arrie
What kind of places have you been taking it to? You need to find a competent service dept.