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Chevy Tahoe Maintenance and Repair



  • Yes they sure do. GM started it in 96 and ford started it around that time also.
  • fdc629fdc629 Posts: 3

    Unfortunatly, I don't have any advise. However, the same thing happaned to my '04 Tahoe LT, with the same exact symptoms "All the other vents including the back seat were emitting cold air." I took it to the dealership, they looked at it and said they didn't find a problem. When I got it back it was working fine and has been every since.

    I was wondering what your solution was?
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    I have a 99 Tahoe with the dual rear cargo doors. Both doors have always been difficult to open/close, but the left one, which doesn't get used often, has become very difficult. I have used PBblaster for years to no avail. I also just noticed that some type of bushing/washer in the hinge mechanism has been significantly compressed, which is a change from it's previous condition.

    Are there any recommendations out there for an "easy" rehab on these hinges?

    Thank you,
  • fdc629fdc629 Posts: 3
    I have a '04 Tahoe LT and I'm experiencing a popping or maybe a ticking sound under the car near the gas tank. It kinda sounds as if someone is tapping on metal. I thought it was liquid slowly dripping on something hot. It does this after driving for about 20 min. and continue even when I turn the engine off.

    Any suggestions before I take it in for service?
  • psnlcpsnlc Posts: 1
    i have the same problem. have you figured out how to fix this yet? if so let me know and if i do i will do the same.
  • lnuttlnutt Posts: 3
  • wiggeywiggey Posts: 2
    That whirring sound IS a fan. It is for a 'Cabin Air Sanitizer & Filter' hiding somewhere behind the dash. The book says you are supposed to change the filter every now & then, but unless you smoke in the car with windows closed it really isn't necessary. It runs with or without the key on BTW.
    I hope this answers your question. Have a blessed day.
  • I have this problem with my 97 Tahoe 4wd. Did you ever get to a resolution? Was it the ABS sensor, warped rotors, out-of-round drums? Are after-market rotors and drums a more permanent solution? Thanks for any advice or pointers.
  • Thanks for the previous comments, my wifes 2004 tahoe ls has same problem with the hot air on the drivers side only, currently it is working fine, with the exception of the check engine light came on at the same time this problem began, just wondering if yall had the same experience and if so did replacing the part correct the check engine light or reset it or what
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 189
    I have a 2004 Tahoe with 34,000 miles and of course the warranty ran out July 19, 2007.

    Noticed a couple puddles of coolant under the middle of the engine. There is a cross bar (fram piece) running under there and it seems to be dripping off the back of that. It's not major yet, and coolant reservoir is still full. I assume that any sign of a leak should be looked at?

    This is pretty low miles, so I am looking for ideas of whether it is more likely a big problem, or an easy one. I'd take it to the dealer, if I thought they'd extend the warranty to it, but don't want to get caught with their charges if they don't.....

    Any thoughts or ideas? Is there anything that is common to go wrong (coolant wise)at 3 years old??

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Well that's low miles for having a coolant problem, I'd probably take it to the dealer and ask them to do it under warranty or dealers concession.

    If not, you should look at any of the hose connections, as well as see if the leak is coming from the back of the waterpump (on the front of the engine).

    Had an older Suburban which had a small coolant leak, and it was the water pump beginning to leak on the driveway. It had about 70-75K miles at the time. If the waterpump is your problem and you end up yanking it, put new radiator hoses on it at the same time.

    But you could just have a hose leaking where the clamp is, for instance a heater hose, or even one of the radiator hoses. A lot of times you can just slip another small clamp right next to the original clamp, and that will solve the problem.

    This could be a 79 cent fix for a small clamp, or hundreds of dollars. You just need to get in there and look around till you find where it's coming from.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 189
    Are heater hoses used just when the heat runs? My husband did say that he first noticed it one day when he had run the heat for the first time since last year. He was wondering if it was related to the heater....I thought the a/c and heat would use all the same hoses and such. If it is a heat only hose, then maybe you are right and that is the problem. SInce we have no idea how to tell even something that simple, I still have to choose, dealer or no dealer????

    Please let me know about the heater use and what role that might play. Thanks! (and/or how to view this hose and it's clamps.)
  • I own a 2004 Chevy Tahoe. At first I started getting codes PO 101, 171 & 174 codes. I would clear them and they wouldn't come back on for awhile. Now I'm getting the PO 300 with the wording “A Boost Perf” after the code. I read my manual on the 300 code and it says it could be several things from bad MAF, Coils, Spark Plugs, Plug Wires, O2 Sensors, etc. I don't recall seeing anything about the fuel pump?

    My runs fine, but recently at stops feel like it does have a very slight stumble in the idle. What was your Tahoe doing if anything that made you think it was the fuel pump? I have 69K on my Tahoe and thought that I would start with the O2 sensors. I did have the K&N 5700 Cold Air Intake on it for quit awhile and also the Bully Dog Program. I put the stock Air Filter Box back on and removed the Bully Dog Program, but I'm still getting the same codes. The MAF was dirty so I cleaned it off with carburetor cleaner and let it air dry. I really don't want to waste money and start buying parts and R&R them if they don't need to be. If it's the fuel pump wouldn't it be noticeable? Hard starting, stumbling bad, not making any noises or too much noise, etc?
    Any help would be appreciated as I said above I really don't want to waste money on parts that I can't afford or don't need.
    Thanks John
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 189
    My 2004 Tahoe, 2 months out of warranty has a coolant leak that I need diagnosed. I was waffling between dealer and local mechanic.

    I got a mailer from Chevy today offering a "performance inspection" which includes "we will check vehicles tires, cooling system, climate control/air conditioning system, exhaust, fluid levels,lights and electrical system."

    I am thinking it will be cheaper to go in for that than to bring it in to diagnose a problem. I bet they'd charge me a half hour to an hour labor if I brought it in for the leaking coolant.

    QUESTION: When they say they will check the "cooling system" what do you think they mean? Do you think they'll pressure test it and visually look for leaks? Or will they check the fluid (which is only a slight bit low-it's not a big leak-yet.)and say it's fine.

    It is only 19.99 for this inspection, so I thought I'd start with this, then if they tell me all is well I will question them and mention the coolant that I found in my driveway.

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I suspect for 19.99 they'll open the cap, look at the color of the anti-freeze, see that the level is correct, look to see that the cap seal isn't ripped, look to see if they can see any crude floating around or on the inside fins, look to see that you don't have any obvious visible leaks at hose fittings/clamps, and then realize that it's a couple of years old and suggest to you that you should flush it and replace the anti-freeze.

    Stuff you could do yourself.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    I got a mailer this week for my Nissan for a 100 point courtesy check-up. Their factory trained technicians would look at all that stuff and give me a written diagnostic report at no cost or obligation.

    I'm tempted to do it just to have my hair stand on end when I see the report with their recommendations to keep my car "operating to its full potential." $$$ :shades:

    Anyway, testing for fluid levels for $20 most likely won't cover a pressure test.

    Your question hits home - my ski buddy had to take his Ford into the shop this morning for a leaky radiator - he noticed it dripping coolant while gassing up. He's glad it's just that ($250 estimate) since it could have been the heater core. He goes to an independent shop fwiw.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 189
    Actually, we couldn't see the hose fitting etc to tell if it was leaking from one. We only see it dripping it off a frame bar. Of course, we didn't lift it up or anything.

    I'm hoping they see a hose! I'll turn down a flush and fill, plus the fluid looks really clean.

    I wonder what they will say when they call me and say it looks fine (except for that fluid change I agree they'll suggest) and I tell them that they are wrong, and that I know there is a leak....Maybe I'll get lucky and it will drip for them..

    I'm still thinking they'd charge me bigger bucks if I took it in with an actual problem, cause they'd know they have me for something
  • whitall said: QUESTION: When they say they will check the "cooling system" what do you think they mean? Do you think they'll pressure test it and visually look for leaks?
    That's what they should do when "checking" the system. Don't settle for anything less.
  • Could be leaking for the water pump too. I have an '06 Sub and it developed a small leak at the top of the pump where the radiator hose is attached. It looked like the hose was leaking but the neck of the water pump had a small crack. The repaired it per warranty with a brand new pump and all related parts (water pump parts kits from GM).
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 189
    My husband looked under the truck and couldn't see alot. He did say there was coolant sprayed everywhere. It is probably a lot of blown around by the wind, but I hope this means it's "just" a leak and not something horrible like the heater core or manifolds or some of the other expensive sounding stuff. My husband didn't see any hoses that seemed to be leaking. He mostly say what he thinks are electrical conduits, he said they look like hoses but are metal, so he thinks there are wires inside. His bet is the water pump.

    Any thoughts on how likely a dealer concession is on a 2004 w/35ooo miles and warranty ran out near the end of July?? How do I ask for a dealer concession, or is it something I demand? How long should this part last?

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You are over thinking need to be taking action.

    If you have 'coolant sprayed everywhere', then this is not a slight drip and you need to get this looked at before you run out of coolant and overheat the engine. If you drive it overheated, you can ruin the engine and have thousands of dollars of repairs. What happens is when the car warms up, pressure builds up in the radiator and will force the coolant out if you have a leaking area somewhere. When the engine and radiator cools down, it stops leaking (because there is no pressure forcing it out).

    Get someone technically compentent to look at this, if your husband isn't. Many shops could do this work. Depending on your service and sales relationship with the dealer, and of course depending upon what the problem ends up being, they may comp you on it since your mileage is still low. If they don't, you'll probably pay slightly more at the dealer than you would at an independant shop.

    Keep your radiator topped off in the meantime, and get this taken care before you are stranded somewhere or do some real damage.
  • whitall said: Any thoughts on how likely a dealer concession is on a 2004 w/35ooo miles and warranty ran out near the end of July?? How long should this part last?
    In my driving experiences water pumps seldom failed under 100,000 miles. Not sure anymore what the manufacturers think about that but a water pump should certainly last a lot longer than 35,000 miles.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 189
    Thanks all. I know it needs looking at. First appt was for later this coming week, so it goes in Thursday. Meanwhile, we keep checking the level and it's not going down much at all.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    My suspicion that I would be suspecting first, with such a low mileage, low age vehicle that you have a hose clamp that need tightening. In the case of Chevy's which tend to use the non-adjustable spring loaded type, you basically can add a 2nd hoseclamp to it, if that is your problem.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 189
    Well, they found nothing on performance inspection. Yet, when hubby got home he opened hood and coolant tank was almost 2 inches low!! They got a call from us! How could they miss that? Oh yes, 2004 Tahoe, 3 years old, 34,900 miles. (warranty ran out 7/23/07)

    Took it back today. Apparently on the pressure test it does not show any leakage, but as it cools down (or something like that) the water pump "seeps".

    My dealer is currently without a service manager!! I got the number to call Chevy for concession...Then the shop foreman walked out with me...We talked and he said he'd see if he could help out at all by talking with someone (new servie mgr next week?). He agreed, without committing, that I shouldn't need one yet...

    Turns out the factory rep was in the building, he talked to him, and they okayed the pump for me!!

    I think I got lucky because this guy was so nice and went out of his way, and the timing was good too. I was afraid the new service mgr would have so much to deal with that I'd get blown off. They topped me off and I take it back next week (no time today)
  • My husband and I have an 03 Tahoe and the speedometer is not working correctly. Chevy told me about the "Partial Recall" and of course ours does not fall within the 7 yr 70,000 mile stipulation. Do they really need to replace the whole cluster, or is it possible to replace or test the speed sensor? Please help if you have any suggestions!!!!
  • Hey there-

    I have a 2003 Chevy Tahoe Z71 with just over 120,000 miles on it. For as long as I can remember I've had what can best be described as a sound from the front left wheel-area like i'm on a train. Evenly spaced duh-duhs, like the wheels of the train going over the spaces in the rails. Weird, I know. However, what makes this troubling now is that the noise is associated with a vibration at between 40-50mph and again at 70-80mph.

    Seeing that I drive to Boulder, CO about 4x a month from Aspen, I need my truck to drive well. Any thoughts? A friend of mine said it could be the Wheel Bearing. I'm not sure.

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I'd suspect a belt in the tire is bad. Swap the tire to the back, and see if the noise moves with it....or stays in the front.
  • hey, thanks for the msg. I don't its the tire belt. All four tires are brand new, relatively. <1000 miles on 'em. Maybe i'll have them switch them just for the heck of it...

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Well if the problem existed before the tires were changed, then it probably isn't the tire.

    You should check the wheel bearing, and the Constant Velocity Joint.

    I'd also recommend since they'll be there, at checking that there isn't too much play in the lower ball joint. I had both of mine bad at about 60K miles in older Suburban. A ball joint problem would cause other problems also like alignment and abnormal tire wear.
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