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Chevy Tahoe Maintenance and Repair



  • Ever since I connected a trailer to my 05 Tahoe the interior lights will randomly turn on and the DIC will display "Divers Door Open". Also, the heated seat will turn on as well.

    Anybody experience the problem before?
  • Excuse me, but please keep the namecalling to your own house. Some of us actually try to keep the discussion relevent as well as mature.

  • BTW, you still contend that I'm somehow out of line for posting here because I own an 07 Avalanche instead of a Tahoe or Suburban. Despite whatever source you have quoting the number of unique differences between these vehicles, I stand by the fact that 90%+ of the components in the Suburban and Avalanche are still shared (heck, that was true for the 2002 models, which had even less than the 07's, thanks to the cladding and different sheetmetal for the Avalanches at the time). I've refrained from posting about anything that-
    1) I have no knowledge or experience with whatsoever, or
    2) is something not shared in common for the three vehicles I've mentioned (Tahoe, Suburban, Avalanche).

    For example, I haven't bothered posting anything concerning the water drainage system (or problems therewith) in the Avalanche, since it's unique. Nor have I bothered talking about the bedpanels, tailgate, or other such Avalanche-specific items. Likewise I don't chime in if folks have questions concerning the (optional?) trizone automatic climate control system in the Tahoe and Suburban (Av only gets a dual zone setup), the optional rear seat heaters (second row only) or power-flip seats, power liftgate, etc..

    But things like the drivetrain (engine, transmission, fuel tank / pump / filter), frame, suspension, most bodywork, windshield, side windows, most electrical items, most electronic goodies (especially engine-management related or audio system related), THOSE are ALL nearly or completely identical between the three vehicles (moreso for the Av / Suburban the the Sub / Tahoe or Av / Tahoe, in fact!). So those are fair game, and I not only learn a lot from the posts others make here about their vehicles, but I occasionally have the ability to contribute.

    So again, please take the childish namecalling and other such nonsense off these forums. You may not like what I have to say, but what I've just said above (and earlier) are FACTS and can easily be backed up by simple searches using tools such as Google, or even bothering to talk to your local GM dealership, service department, and parts department. (Also why the current TSB on flexfuel vehicles applies to my Av as well as your Tahoe / Suburbans with the SAME drivetrain and engine!)
  • Hi,

    I have a '03 Z-71 with the same proplem. I read the lean mixture codes, changed the plugs and cleaned the MAF sensor, and the problem came right back. I then brought it to the shop where they replaced the MAF sensor; the same problem returned. I have a K & N filter, but no problems for around 10,000 miles when I bought the vehicle with the air filter installed. What did you do to resolve this issue? Any help would be appreciated!

  • jbwijbwi Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Tahoe that started grinding when engaging 4HI from 2HI. It sounds like it is front driverside but could be center of the truck. It gets louder as I slow down. The shop that looked at it thought it was an actuator but I think it might be more than that. The 4HI engages but then pulls slightly to the left. As soon as I diengage it pops out and you can feel the release of the front drive unit. Any Thoughts? :confuse:
  • ahoronahoron Posts: 30
    Have you checked fluid level in front axle? My 2002 blew a seal on the axle and had same problems I filled axle with oil problem went away.The seal is a pita to replace.
  • jbwijbwi Posts: 2
    I have checked levels and they are fine. I have read about some sort of ring that can let loose in the transfer case but it seems to more in the front drivers side.
  • I have a '03 Z-71 that is idling erratically, getting poor gas mileage, and lacking power. I read both banks lean mixture codes, changed the plugs and cleaned the MAF sensor, and the problem came right back. I then brought it to the shop where they replaced the MAF sensor; the same problem returned. I have a K & N filter, but no problems for around 10,000 miles and bought the vehicle with the air filter installed. I noticed one other indiviual had this problem last fall posted, but no resolution is described. Anybody help would be appreciated!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    This is worth a read:

    Diagnosing a bad MAF

    (You have to scroll down and skip a page to finish the article)

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • I own a 2004 Chevy Tahoe Z71. Does anyone know anything about the lights by the push buttons you use to switch between Auto 4 Wheel Drive, 2 Hi, Neutral, 4 Hi, and 4 Lo. I always keep my Tahoe in 2Hi and the orange light is illuminated, that is unless I'm 4 wheeling, etc and need to be in 4 wheel drive.

    Recently I noticed that while I was on my way home a Red light was on instead of the orange light for 2 Hi. It was dark so I couldn't see what this red light meant; the next day I checked it out. Apparently the Red light is for Neutral.

    My Transfer could not have been in Neutral since I was driving and drove for over 40 miles. I did flash my High Beams on and off a couple of times prior to getting on the road to check them out. Could this have something to do with why the Red Transfer Case light for Neutral was on instead of the orange light for 2 Hi?

    When I started it back up the next day the Red neutral light was off and the Orange 2Hi light was on. I did not notice any unfamiliar noises or driving condition. I have driven several hundred miles since and nothing seems to be wrong. It just irks me that the red light was on and I have no idea why?

    I recently have had service done on my transfer case, transmission, and differential. 50K maintenance, fluid & filter change, etc. I had to use the Auto Trac II for the transfer case, which I think is a racked that Chevy has a monopoly on. I used Full Synthetic for the transmission and differential thou. I also had my Transmission and Rear Differential pan and cover replaced with the MAG-HYTEC pan and cover. I don't think that any of the above would have made the Red light come on. Maybe flashing the Hi Beams did it? Any one?

    Also lately the heater for the passenger seat comes on all by itself when someone is sitting in it. Has this happen to anyone else?
  • I just finished reading my owner’s manual again for the 2nd time and the WARRANTY Manual that came with my 2004 Tahoe.

    I believe that I found out something really good for everyone concerned. Even after our 36/36 warranty has run out there are still several hundred parts that are covered under factory warranty that you probably don't know about up to 70K, 100K and even 150K for some parts.

    For instances anything having to do with the emissions, and I mean anything. Even your Air Filter is covered up to 100K. The list is to long to type out, but I recommend that everyone read it.

    Most of the problems listed above and in the forum are covered under factory warranty up to 100,000 miles that the dealers will not tell you about. You would not believe me if I typed it out, so please read your warranty manual to see for your self.

    Also you can replace your factory parts with an after market part and you will not void any of the warranties. That is so long as the after market part is of the same quality or better than GM uses. And that is not hard to beat in most cases.

    I have replaced at my expense, my Air Intake to a K&N 5700 series, my spark plugs to E3 and my plug wires to MSD Super Conductors. I have also replaced my Transmissin pan and Differential Cover with a MAG-HYTEC pan and cover. These hold more fluid and keep the parts cooler. Especially if you tow a trailer or do 4 wheeling. In addition I used Full Synthetic gear oil and Transmission fluid instead of the stock fluid and gear oil. This will also help the part last a lot longer. Anything small to help my 2004 Tahoe Z71 get better mpg and allow me to prevent any costly maintenance I have decided to do. As soon as I can afford it, I'm going to replace my stock coils with the MSD coils. The MSD coils will also improve the mpg as they put out a multiple spark compared to the stock coils. You can pick up a set of all 8 for a little over $700.00 at Kragens or Pep-Boys.

    I guarantee that 99.9% of you will be shocked to discover that you have purchased a part that was covered under warranty. :)
  • Hey Sasz71, how is the truck now? My 2002 Tahoe with 68k has the same problem, just started.
  • After about $1000 in replacing plugs and the MAF, I brought it to someone different and they discovered that my Manifold seal was cracked and leaking gas and air! This air leak was causing the LEAN BANK-1 and LEAN BANK-2 codes to be thrown. So another $500 and everything runs smoothly.
  • Hello - My 2004 Tahoe Z71 is currently in the shop for the samething. I had in the shop about 8 months ago with the same problem. The chevy dealership said it was a eletrical short. 900.00 later it was fixed. Until now, it is going to cost me another 900.00 to repalce the computer. I am trying to find out more about this. I am sure it is something I can by for about 200.00 and install it myself. Thanks Rich
  • sasz71sasz71 Posts: 14
    I would not say it's cured, but I listen for the noise everyday and only occassionally do I get the knocking noise on early morning start-ups. The Lucus oil additive seems to work with no adverse effects.
  • Thanks Sasz71. I went to the dealer yesterday and after talking to them for about 30 min, I'm starting to think it might be ok. Basically the sound only happens when on a cold start below 40deg, which is not so often in Dallas where I live. And it goes away in like 10-15 sec. If I let the engine idle a bit before taking off, no sound either. Otherwise the engine runs really good. The mechanic said his truck does the same thing. Since my truck is not under warranty, the dealer could have offered to make some expensive repairs, but they did not. So I at least have to assume they believe what they are saying to me. I'm willing to live with it for now and hope for the best. I'm not to inclined to put oil additives, but I might consider using synthethic oil in my next oil change to see if that changes anything. The dealer rep was not a big fan of synthetic oil either he said it was a not needed expense.

  • mimanmiman Posts: 3
    I have this on my 01 tahoe. I agree with bamspeck. I would have found that a syn. oil (amsoil 0w-30) all but eliminates the problem. Sticks to the metal parts better.
  • My wife's 04 Tahoe had the same problem two years ago while it was under warrenty and they fixed it. Now it has happened again and we took it to the dealership and they were going to replace the same part. So I said BS to that and we are ordering the part. It's part AC/Delco #89018365 found on this website,ACDELCO,HEAT+xxampxx+AIR+CONDITIONING,6848,HE- ATER+xxampxx+AC+CONTROLSxxslashxxVALVESxxslashxxACTUATOR
  • I am very upset right now and wondered if anyone else had this problem.. i originally brought my tahoe in 3 weeks ago for noise in the rear end, they came back and said there was metal grining in the differential and fixed it under my extended warranty. 2 weeks after getting it fixed a noise was still there, i returned it back to the same dealer today and now I am being told that i did something to the rear end and something had cracked, i was even asked at one point if i had gotten into an accident when i have never been in an accident in this vehicle. This just sounds to strange/odd to me when i had my vehicle in 3 weeks ago for the same noise that they are now saying is my fault and is not covered under warranty, how can a rear end problem be my fault? How did they not find it 3 weeks ago. Anybody with comments please, this just sounds like a bunch of bull to me. I have an exteneded warranty I paid for, I just don't get it. :sick:
  • bk777bk777 Posts: 32
    Take a look at this document.

    We had a very similar experience at Just Brakes with our Tahoe earlier today. Anyone else out there experience this problem?

    The state Attorney General's office currently lists 49 complaints filed by consumers in the state of TX alone.

    Bait and switch is the technique being used by Just Brakes...according to the Florida press release.
  • 03cotahoe03cotahoe Posts: 12
    Help! Now that I have my low RPM thing fixed, I have another problem. When accelerating, what sounds to me like being directly underneath the drivers and passengers seats is a sound like pieces of aluminium clanking together. It only happens when I accelerate, usually from a dead stop and ALWAYS stops when I release the throttle.

    In addition to that, when I hit 70mph I get a vibration that sounds like its coming from the back. Over 80 mph (oops) it stops. Wierd.

    Any help??
  • Did you ever find where the fuel pressure regulator is located on your tahoe. I have a 1999 suburban and am trying to change mine too. Was it difficult?
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    This is where it is located on my 00 silverado 5.3 see the gold circular object? Look at the C in Vortec and go down from there. It was simple to change took 5 min.

  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    They are trying to get money of you. Get a lawyer to give them a call. It usually helps when the dealer knows they are wrong.

    If you paid for extended warranty they are responsible of fixing it. There is no way you can do any harm to the differential other than if you had an accident and the rear axle received a strong hit or something. And you did not have an accident, right?

    The car engine power is not enough to damage the differential if it is designed correctly what is we all must assume. If something is cracked in differential it most likely is material fault.

    Don't give in. Make them fix it under warranty you paid for.

  • marvkmarvk Posts: 2
    When I first start my 07 LTZ the humming from the fuel pump is very loud, warmed up at idle it is quieter but still noticeable.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 189
    My husband just pointed out to me that the "arms" of the gas and brake pedals are both rusty looking on our 2004, 27,000 mile Tahoe. The service guy seemed to not know how to reply at first, then said the guy next to him (this over the phone) said that it is normal. Seems weird when we don't live in New Orleans (flood!) nor near the beach. Why would they be rusting inside the truck? He said it is uncoated metal and just having wet feet would be enough. Is this a problem or is it normal? The warranty ends in July.

    Also, on the warranty subject, is there anything that I should have checked before it runs out? I am wondering if there are any known issues that I may not be aware of that could be detected early. Thanks.
  • sasz71sasz71 Posts: 14
    Check the zoot (carpet padding). From the area near the brake pedal, pull the carpet up and reach down to feel the padding on the floor. If it is wet and unless somone took it all a part to clean and dry it, it is probably still wet. That is a sign you have a swamp salvage. Keep looking for signs like watermark stains on the door panels, rust on the condensor outside the vehile, etc.

    It won't necessarily show up in Car Fax or any other vehile history records. Buyer beware. But if has been swamped, especially in salt water and you bought it from a dealership, sue! They know if if they deny.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 189
    Forgot to mention that we bought it new, and have never had it in water deeper than your average deep road puddle. Is this a normal condition, or does it signify a leak from possible the engine compartment or somewhere? Dealer tried to make it sound "normal".
  • sasz71sasz71 Posts: 14
    Glad to hear you don't have a swamp salvage.

    My 2002 brake pedal arm looks painted black and the gas pedal rod looks like aluminum, no signs of rust. If yours is uncoated, it might be normal to have some minor surface rust just from the moisture in the air but very minor at most. I would still check for moisture under the carpet. If you do have a leak and the carpet padding is wet, it will not dry but rust out your floor given the heat from the exhaust will excellerate the process.
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