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This is assuming of course, that your battery connections are clean without any corrosion, as that adds resistance.
Front Wheel Hub, Bearing, and Seal Replacement
Removal Procedure
Notice: Never place vehicle on the ground with the halfshaft removed or the halfshaft nut torqued improperly. Otherwise, bearing seals may become dislodged causing premature wear and/or damage to the hub and bearing assembly.
1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
2. Remove the tire and wheel.
3. Remove the rotor.
4. Remove the wheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt from the steering knuckle.
5. Remove the wheel hub and bearing mounting bolts. (15 series)
6. Remove the wheel hub and bearing mounting bolts , the 25/35 series.
7. Remove the wheel hub and bearing and splash shield from the vehicle.
8. Remove the O-ring seal from the steering knuckle bore, the 25/35 series.
9. Remove the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt.
10. Clean and inspect the O-ring seal, the 25/35 series.
11. Replace the seal if the following conditions exist:
o Nicks
o Cuts
o Dry or brittle
o Compression set
Installation Procedure
1. Clean all corrosion or contaminates from the steering knuckle bore and the hub and bearing.
2. Lubricate the steering knuckle bore with wheel bearing grease or the equivalent.
3. Install the O-ring to the steering knuckle, 25/35 series. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
4. Install the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt. Tighten the bolt to 18 Nm (13 ft. lbs.).
5. Install the wheel hub and bearing and splash shield to the vehicle, 25/35 series.
6. Install the wheel hub and bearing (4) and splash shield to the 15-series steering knuckle.
7. Install the wheel hub and the 15-series bearing mounting bolts. Install the wheel hub and bearing mounting bolts, the 25/35 series. Tighten the bolts to 180 Nm (133 ft. lbs.).
8. Install the wheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt to the steering knuckle. Tighten the bolt to 12 Nm (106 inch lbs.).
9. Install the rotor.
10. Install the tire and wheel.
11. Lower the vehicle.
If you need diagrams, check w/ your local public library or get a workshop manual at Autozone or Kragen.
roadwork
Ok, bought my '96 Tahoe LT in April, with 150K miles on it, of which 10K are mine. It has a full tow package on it and I first made use of it with a 5x8 U-Haul trailer this past weekend. About half way into the 700 mile trip, I was entering the Trans-Canada from a ramp and, while accelerating, at about 45-50mph, there was a "zzzzzz" sound, kinda like a power steering pump, but from the tranny area. I was in OD, shifted to D, same noise with power on, it stopped when I released the gas, but no noise at all in 3rd. Everything still worked fine, passing gear, etc., no sign of slipping and the noise quit at hwy speeds.
When I stopped an hour later, for fuel, checked the oil levels, all ok, then put it through the gears. Noise in forward & reverse, with brakes on and slight gas pedal, but it did not last. I finished the trip with no further noise, and no drop in performance and no obvious slippage.
Without the trailer, and in our new snow, I've been putting it through the gears a little more aggressive, but everything seems ok.
I'm doing another 300 mile trip with aging Mom & Dad at Christmas and don't want any problems... any ideas?? :confuse:
Tranny oil is ok and, red, not burnt. Thanks
Don
A smoke-test, for the vacuum will show all leaks, 20$-40$, but worth the bother, even if that's not the "real" problem... could be a combination of things, vacuum is a good thing to have!
Fuel too,
Might be a bad plug, injector, wire... battery connection= low, irregular voltage leading to computer confusion.
But the smoke test will tell a lot, and eliminate that question!
What conditions are you driving in?
Display engine oil life on DIC, press and hold the reset button
:confuse: :sick:
First off, I've changed 2 alternators in the past 3 years in my '96... might be the cause of the dead battery. Otherwise, check for a light staying on, ie glove-box, under the hood...?
You don't say if you changed the fuel pump, (low pressure) but I'd be looking for a gas line leak, sucking air, somewhere. Try bleeding the gas line at the engine, there should be what looks like a tire valve, if not, loosen the line...might be an air bubble, or dirt, jammed up in there...
If you're where the temperature goes between freezing and not, and do a few miles before it acts up, look for a vacuum leak to the breather... the breather warm-air valve, from the exhaust manifold don't work, causing intake gas to freeze, reducing gas flow. Usually, the valve is ok, it's the supply line that's leaking... find a full-time vacuum line and plug it there, to get home, or use a lot of gas-line ante-freeze!
Keep us posted!
Once that is all working correctly, then they should check that air mixture doors are working correctly.
Not sure I understand this: "and nothing is discharged from the charging canister,............. " Unless you have the bottle connected to the high side which is dangerous.
re: "nothing is dis,...." it seems no refridgerant left the container. The nipple on the charging unit doesnt fit on the high side,...so it was the low side,....
If this really was a Chev dealership, then go find another Chev dealership or a specialty air conditioning repair shop.
I drive a 1999 Tahoe and we replaced a tube from the radiator to the overflow tank about a month ago. I do heavy canyon driving because I ski 3-4 days a week. Any ideas? What's the problem?
Thanks
:confuse: :sick:
Get it fixed quickly before you ruin both.
Replying to: shineslee (May 22, 2006 6:44 am)
Hi, I'm new here, and my first topic of course is going to be something about my new truck. I JUST bought this Tahoe home friday night. We haven't signed the paperwork till tonight (Monday).
First thing, the truck runs good. Bad thing, the Tranny is making a hard "clank" noise everytime it shifts to 2rd or to 3rd gear at 1500 RPM. And when it slows down, it does the same thing...
Is it something that could be easily fixed? What could it be? Does it need a new Transmission already?
You could be staring at a couple thousand dollar repair bill......used cars are sold 'as-is'.
Anyway, can anyone provide me with info on just what the source of this steering "clunking" is and what is the part(s) needed to make the repair? Will this be a difficult repair? I most certantly am not going to pay Government Motors to make the repairs and most probably will not buy another GM product...Think Toyota.
Thanks for the assistance.