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I think that is one of the things I don't like about the newer Accords, it feels like you are driving a Buick.
I think the one I am currently looking at is the Bossal or the Walker. I think the Bossal one might actually be OEM, I need to see if I can find out who Honda's supplier was back then.
Hey man try changing or tapping on the PMG-FI main relay . Its located beside fuse panel under the dash. That relay controls the fuel presure and parts of the ignition. Try that and see if it helps GOOD LUCK!
Would appreciate if anyone out there can help.....my 92 Honda Accord is playing silly. Just recently when out driving the green "S" light starts flashing, the speedo stops working and the power starts to decelerate, it doesn't actually stop, and the check engine light comes on.
The fault doesn't usually happen when starting up but when I have been driving for say 1 to 2 miles.
The check engine light has been coming on for a month before the other stuff started happening but it would go off when I stopped the car and not make any difference to the running of the car, and might not come on again for the rest of the journey.
Thanks
http://techauto.te.funpic.org/vss.php
If you have a blinking "S" or "D4" light you may want to read the link too. The computer will flash a code for you if you jump the service check connector. I would have to find the link for that, if you need more information.
Thanks!
It is on the speedometer in my car, at the bottom (its not readable here, but you can get an idea of what it looks like... a little square that doesn't actually glow). The key slot you should insert the key into is just to the left of the colored reminder, and to the right of the gear indicator).
See more Car Pictures at CarSpace.com
Discovering "all it needs" is way to vague a question for a good answer here.
My suggestion would be to find a friend/relative/co-worker that can give you a hand looking over the car.
Mrbill
Then open the hood, look for cracked belts, old hoses, and corroded battery cables. That'll keep you busy for a while.
Jack it up on jackstands, pull off all 4 wheels, and inspect the brake rotors, brake pads and the struts/shocks for leaking oil.
Then crawl under there and look for oil leaks from engine and transmission, and for blown out CV axle boots that are torn or leaking.
How are the tires?
How are the wiper blades?
How are the air, oil and fuel filters?
OKAY! We've got you busy for a couple weeks easy :P
here's where i'd start, following the other advice of course.
first things first, verify all signal lights (brake, turn, headlight, reverse) all functioning. use flashers, and another person to cycle the left/right, brake, hi-low, reverse.
i assume you'd be changing the oil yourself. assuming the oil is dark or you have no idea when it was changed last:
first stop: purchase any replacement bulbs needed, then a good set of ramps and 5qts oil of the recommended type and good quality oil filter. also purchase a nice oil basin and something to store the old oil in between trips to the recycling center.
when it's up on the ramps, you'll get a good look at the underside where you can begin inspecting the cv joints, exhaust hangers, exhaust and cat, and other things.
after driving it back down to level, i'd start systematically checking each fluid resevoir to see if the brakes, radiator, power-steering, or WW wiper resevoir is in need of a top off. if AT, i'd check the AT fluid level. i'd use only honda recommended fluid for the AT. by putting each fluid where it should be, when you check a few weeks later, you'll know if you have a possible issue.
i'd check the engine air filter: only about $15-20 to replace, and also the pcv valve (about $6-12). if you have the tools, i'd pull a plug and look at the condition.
i'd clean the battery terminals and assure the clamps on the lugs were tight.
then, not pressure wash and not flooding with water, i'd take a sponge and soapy water (avoiding the distributor and plugs, and anything electrical like the fuse/relay compartment) and I'd clean the whole engine compartment cautiously. this will get you familiar with where stuff is, and if something is loose, but it would also let you see what is leaking (if anything), and leave you with a cleaner engine where you can see in the future, what may be leaking. i'd be checking belts and hoses and clamps as shifty said. then very low-pressure / low-flow water to rinse stuff off, start it and let it idle to get rid of excess standing water.
a few weeks later, i'd put some clean paper under the vehicle (after cold) with rocks to hold in place so i could see if there's any dripping to identify by color and location where there's a potential problem.
well, that's what i'd do with a new to you vehicle. do as your funds allow, but be systematic hitting the important and low-effort stuff first. enjoy.
so my drivers window will go up but not down.
one day it started acting funny..working then not..then working then not..then never again.
so i thought it had to be the window motor! so i bought a new one off of ebay...popped it in and it went up...but it wont go down...crap! so it must be the switch..gotta be...so i went to the junk yard found an exact one...asked the guy if i can plug it in real quick to check before i get it...i swear it worked...i bought it..took it home to install all of it..and it didnt work again...so i get a wire tester..of course all the other window switches on the board lit up...the up button for the drivers window lit up...but non of the remaining ones did for the bottom (not too sure what the botton wire is) so im thinking its a wire problem..i try to trace it to the fuse...but its to the fuse box in my engine so its a long journey....i lose track cuz it goes under the back of the block....but the fuse for that window was blown...maybe thats it..so i replaced it...still nothing...but guess what..that one blew also...still no luck with anything...so i took it to a local parts shop...the guy told me he would bet its the switch...but i could try to cut the up and down wires and switch them to see if the window would go down when i push the button up...so i did that...still nothing (just clicks going down now)...but i check with my test the end of the motor connector and both wires lit up that when and when back to normal only the up lit up. (with all this testing and what not i went through an entire package of fuses cuz they kept blowing)
so i took apart my old master switch...sure enough one side of the connectors was fried...so i took apart the one i got from the salvage yard but it wasnt fried at all so crap im back to i dunno....when i push up theres a click in the switch and the motor...so theres power...but nothing going down...
if i knew what wire and what i could do..i wouldnt mind taking a wire and jumping it from where it would come to the switch..to see if it will work and if so then just routing that one to it instead of tracing the stupid one in the harness behind the block
hope i made everything detailed enough...any help would be great...i want to be able to fix it like normal without it looking guetto..just wish it wasnt my drivers window that went out..thanks guys
I am using a honda ccord 92, with 130k.
It run fine during the first start.If i stop after 30 min, then iam facing problem in starting.
Iam waited for 10 min and tried agian, its works fine.
Can any one help me some idea before going to a mechanic.
If you google that, it talks about the failure modes of the module too.
http://techauto.te.funpic.org/
Ken Lee
so my drivers window will go up but not down.
one day it started acting funny..working then not..then working then not..then never again.
so i thought it had to be the window motor! so i bought a new one off of ebay...popped it in and it went up...but it wont go down...crap! so it must be the switch..gotta be...so i went to the junk yard found an exact one...asked the guy if i can plug it in real quick to check before i get it...i swear it worked...i bought it..took it home to install all of it..and it didnt work again...so i get a wire tester..of course all the other window switches on the board lit up...the up button for the drivers window lit up...but non of the remaining ones did for the bottom (not too sure what the botton wire is) so im thinking its a wire problem..i try to trace it to the fuse...but its to the fuse box in my engine so its a long journey....i lose track cuz it goes under the back of the block....but the fuse for that window was blown...maybe thats it..so i replaced it...still nothing...but guess what..that one blew also...still no luck with anything...so i took it to a local parts shop...the guy told me he would bet its the switch...but i could try to cut the up and down wires and switch them to see if the window would go down when i push the button up...so i did that...still nothing (just clicks going down now)...but i check with my test the end of the motor connector and both wires lit up that when and when back to normal only the up lit up. (with all this testing and what not i went through an entire package of fuses cuz they kept blowing)
so i took apart my old master switch...sure enough one side of the connectors was fried...so i took apart the one i got from the salvage yard but it wasnt fried at all so crap im back to i dunno....when i push up theres a click in the switch and the motor...so theres power...but nothing going down...
if i knew what wire and what i could do..i wouldnt mind taking a wire and jumping it from where it would come to the switch..to see if it will work and if so then just routing that one to it instead of tracing the stupid one in the harness behind the block
hope i made everything detailed enough...any help would be great...i want to be able to fix it like normal without it looking guetto..just wish it wasnt my drivers window that went out..thanks guys
Once its out, you can replace the bulbs as necessary. I think there is also a spring holding it in place, but that might be me mixing it up with the other vehicle.
Thanks in advance!
The valve cover gasket kit will come with a new valve cover gasket, 2 new gaskets and rubber things to go around the silver bolts on the top, and 4 donuts to go around where the spark plug boots go through.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- - cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1991&catcgry3=4DR+SE&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=REAR+DOOR+GLA- - SS
and here:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1991&catcgry3=4DR+SE&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=REAR+DOOR+LIN- ING
see if there's another diagram on another site for removing the interior panel "door lining", i.e. google for that. i think you will find it if you search for it. it's probably held in place by some clips and/or screws - there's probably an easy procedure for taking it off.
maybe the diagrams are enough.
once off, i imagine there's a good chance you can figure out mechanically what is wrong.
curious, is the window all the way down in the channel, and possibly stuck / inhibited from going up because it was rolled down too far? maybe a screwdriver to artificially situate it in the middle of the track so you can roll it back up.
I found that too. I was referring to where the cables that move the window up and down get in . I took everything apart. Window works just by pulling either one of the cable for up or down. Then i took the black plastic piece apart. Inside goes the cables, there is a base and a small rotor which is attached to the handler. Whne you go counterclockwise one cable is rolled in the small plastic drum and the other one gets loose and the other way around. Now i see one place for one of the cable ends (it looks like a bike's break system) but i don;t see wehre the other cable ends goes. So Everytime I try , that one jumps out of place and tension is lost resulting in window going down.
That is why i was looking for some diagram which i cannot find on the web, or any of your advice.
Thank you