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Sorry to be so hard on you. I get all my service (only what Honda recommends (mostly throuhg the "minder" system), at the dealer, but not all the extras that the dealer has on their list of 15,000, 30,000 mile, etc. "required" service. And I do the very simple stuff, like the cabin air filter, myself.
I have Accord 2003,Automatic Transmission, 5/6 Days back I faced a problem when i moved the key to ignition III to start engine,I Could see all the lights on Dash board which come for few seconds but engine didnt started. I took out the key and tried again after 15/20 secs and it started, The car was in P.
Next day same problem i faced so i changed the battery to a brand new one because the old one was about to finish its life. Now again I faced same problem as i moved the key to ignition III it didnt started but i can see all lights on dash board also there is no CLICK CLICK sound which normally indicates a self problem, I took out the Key then tried after 30 Secs and engine started normally, no malfunction indicator lamp light nothing, just very very normal.
Can any one guide what it Could be? and Yes one time in recent days it happened that car wasnt starting so i Moved the Gear to N, while putting key in ignition III and engine started normally.
Please let me know I am new to Honda and recently bought it used car. it is regularly maintained at Honda Work shop since it was bought from showroom, I dont think it could be a big issue, Please help me
if u need to know some other details to answer me please feel free to ask.
regards,
Now, sometimes they don't turn on when I click "unlock." Only when I open the door will they turn on.
I am trying to find out how the transmissions are holding up on the 04' Accords as I need to advise my mother in-law on whether to purchase the extended warranty or not. It's a 4cyl automatic Accord EX with about 12,000 miles on it. Any insights?
Any insights?
Best regards, floridacarman!
Thegraduate
2006 Accord EX 4-cyl 5AT, 29,400mi
1996 Accord LX 4-cyl 4AT, 178,500mi
A fellow parent in our scout troop works at an area tire and mechanical repair store. They sell Michelin. He looked at them and said it's not dry rot. He said it was just age and the rubber tends to harden and then crack.
Go to a quality Michelin store to have them looked at. Make it clear you don't plan to replace them immediate and would hope they wear longer safely. And that you'd remember them when it is time to replace the tires.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I will try and let u know.
thank you for your response.
http://www.michelinman.com/tires/luxury-performance-touring/energy-mxv4-s8/#size- - - s-and-specifications
I replaced the tires after 48K miles last November.
The tires still had about 5K miles left. There weren't many cracks
on the sidewalls. Probably I armored all them once a month during
the summer.
Here are my new Primacy MXV4s:
http://www.michelinman.com/tires/luxury-performance-touring/primacy-mxv4/#sizes-- - - and-specifications
The load index is higher than the OEM tires. Like your Turanza's,
these tires are heavier and have thicker sidewalls than the OEMs. Will lose about couple MPGs and some acceleration. But man, I have to say these
tires handle much much better in snow & wet road than the OEM
tires.
Got them at BJs for $720 tax included after $50 coupon.
Life time balance & rotation, and road hazard insurance also
included.
Unlike the OEM tires, these MXV4s carry 60K mile treadwear.
How long she's planning to keep the car.
How much is the EW to cost.
Those little-driven cars are not necessarily the best in shape.... And age is also an issue....
Me, personally, if I was planning to keep the car for another 5-7 years, and the EW cost up to $1,000 (with no deductible) I would seriously consider it......
I'm trying to advise my son on some used cars he's looking at. Anyone know if this applies to Acuras also?
Thanks.
http://www.beaufordbuddy.com/ipod_install_5.htm
Good luck!
OK, so I think it's a normal trait of the Accord 4cy transmission and there should be no problem with our cars(either that or we both got a lemon :P). Any other owner bother to weigh in? thegraduate, tankbeans, austinman or anyone with 7Gen 4cy?
What does the tachometer do when you select "D"?
elroy5, I'll check mine and report back, I think it'll behave much the same way as tankbeans posted above when shifting from P to D though (it's almost the same from P to R).
I left the TSB# in my office.
Will post it when I get it.
So sorry for delay in responding to your posts. I appreciate the feedback. Sounds like the VINs on the body panels are indeed OEM, indicating original parts. That's good advice to have it doublechecked anyway.
In the meantime, I thought to check my hood. It's a replacement. I slid into the back of a Lincoln Town Car at 5 mph. The Lincoln was like hitting a granite boulder -- you couldn't tell it had been hit -- but my hood buckled. There's no VIN sticker on it, but there is a sticker that looks like this: R (Honda logo) DOT
Maybe R stands for replacement? DOT -- Dept. of Transportation?
The rest of the car has the normal OEM white VIN stickers everywhere.
according2u06,
I've never noticed anything unusual about the RPMs when shifting to R or D, but I haven't paid much attention. I'll watch tomorrow and see if anything shows up.
my wife hit the curb on saturday with her front, right wheel. The Bridgestone factory tire was pretty much dead within seconds and we had to do a tire change right there. The car is only at 4500 miles and was purchased on 9/30/2007. I was wondering a few things... 1) any chance this might be covered by a warranty? we have a firestone store here that I go to regularly for my lifetme alignment on my 2004 accord, maybe I can get the tire checked out there? 2) If no warranty would apply, what are odds this could be repaired? 3) if I must replace the tire, can I get just one tire this early in my tires'/car's life or do I have to do in pairs? Here are the tire specifics:
Bridgestone Turanza EL41 P205/60R16 91V M+S EL41JZ
and the car's a 2007 Honda accord ex coupe with Navi
I had a similar situation a few years back. I had a blown tire and scratched wheel on my driver side rear. I ended up buying one new factory wheel, and two new tires for the rear. I kept the scratched wheel with the (slightly used) tire from the passenger side rear on it as a (full size) spare. It's nice to know you have a full size spare, to go along with the temporary. It cost me a few $$$, but I ended up better off than I was before.
Anyone have any thoughts on the possibilities of warranty replacement and/or repair of this tire?
If I have to replace, I'll just replace 1 tire like Elroy5 suggested, and maybe just rotate this new front/right tire and my older front left/tire to the back.. and that would help them get a little more even before I bring them to the front in my next tire rotation (in... 5k miles? how often should I be getting them done on my car?)
I suggest that you read the fine print on the tire warranty that came with your owner's manual. I doubt if it is covered since it can be chalked up to driver error, however, it never hurts to ask.
I ran over a sharp object that ended up getting to the outside of the tire, just off the tread when my old Accord was almost new. I had to replace the whole thing. Like Elroy, it didn't hurt anything to replace just one tire when it was so new.
To even out the wear on all tirew, I suggest you use the new tire on the Right Front side for a few thousand mile before you rotate it. RF tires receive the most abuse with LH drives.
I've never noticed anything unusual about the RPMs when shifting to R or D, but I haven't paid much attention. I'll watch tomorrow and see if anything shows up.
When you test it, make sure you do it right after you start the car. I don't notice anything unusual either when I test it after I drove the car for a while. It seems to be more obvious when engine is cold/not warmed up. Althouth I've come to realize it doen't have much to do with the weather.