Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
1st the temp gage does not work properly...it stays pegged at the bottom except occasionally, when coming to a stop the needle will jump up and drop. When it drops, the idle will surge up. After this happens, 9 out of 10 times, it will stall the next time you take your foot off of the accelerator.
Also, the check engine light came on and the error was that the temp sensor detected a hi input..
...I found and replaced the sensor and the gage worked for about 10 seconds then down she went again... :sick:
Thanks for looking and if anyone has a hint to how I should proceed I appreciate it!!!
_________________
Father of 3, Mechanic for all of them...HELP!!
Thanks! :shades: :shades:
Damper Dudes
6180 Parallel Road
Anderson, CA 96007
1-800-413-2673
Good Luck!
Please help! Thank you
Need to replace the right front motor mount on my 94 grand am - 3.1L 6cyl. I have taken it apart and appear to have 3 components - the metal housing, the lower block/insert and a third item that was located within the housing at the top. Everywhere I went they told me that they could not find the third item. It is rubber and ripped in 2 so it must be replaced? Or is the insert that is sold today a replacement for the both the lower block and this third item. Thanks in advance! John
Story behind it and you can move to the next paragraph if you don't want to see why it's broken. Okay, so I got my tires rotated and balanced and pulled up with my windows up. I gave the repairmen my keys and waited inside until they were done. I came out and the driver's side window was down and I didn't bother to put it back up on the spot since I've never had too much trouble with the window and it was a beautiful day outside. I got home and the window wouldn't go up. Now it's my repair to deal with since I have no proof that the window was fine before. All they told me when they gave me back my keys was that the door sticks (no, it doesn't, it's just a normal bulky coupe door). :mad:
So...this window IS NOT powered and it just rolls up and down. How do I know if it is simply off its track or something was broken from harsh treatment? How much would it cost to get this repaired or is it best to spend a weekend fixing it myself. My dad said he would help me if we were able to find instructions.
Cost estimate?
In my case, a 2000 Grand Am GT Coupe with a 3.4V-6, the car was delivered in badly damaged condition by a rogue dealership with dented driver's door column, a damaged wiper arm, a severely scratched windshield and a couple of accessories missing. The dealer refused to replace the missing accessories, to repair the damaged door (it would have needed to be replaced) or to replace the windshield. They did reluctantly repair the windshield wiper arm and repair the windshield by grinding and polishing the scratches. GM took the position that the problem was between me and the delivering dealership and refused to intercede or assist, leaving me with the option to sue if I wished -- and everybody knew that legal expenses would outweigh the amount of any recovery. Not a good start!
With mileage in the high 20,000's the car started "consuming" both oil and coolant, very slowly at first and then gradually increasing over time. When complaints were made to the dealership within the 36,000-mile warranty period, I was told that this was a normal condition for this 3.4 engine in spite of their insider knowledge by secret TSB's 030601010 and 030601010B of March 1 & October 1, 2003 respectively that there was an intake gasket incompatibilty with the Dexcool extended life coolant that should have entitled me to a warranty repair. Also the blower motor resistor and connectors that permit slow speed operation of the heating/cooling/defrosting fan were burned out, for which a warranty repair was refused on the grounds that the fan would still operate the defrosters at high speed and, as such, did not present a safety issue -- it was news to me that GM's warranty only applies to safety issues or NHTSA recalls!
Once the car was out of warranty, the original rogue dealer was happy to inform me that I needed an intake manifold gasket replacement for $695 (thank you very much). At the same time, the car was suffering from the now well-publicized, cracked hazard warning switch problem behind the dashboard that ultimately became a recall item under various secret TSB's and NHTSA I/D #'s. This in turn burned out the main turn signal switch on the steering column.
The car was eventually taken to a different Pontiac dealership where the intake manifold gasket, hazard warning switch and turn signal switches were replaced for a grand total of $986. The extra $291 for the switch replacements were claimed to have been made at a courtesy discount rate since my VIN did not fall within the NHTSA safety recall range -- God help anyone having to pay the full price, however outrageous that might turn out to be! To this day, the blower motor resistor set and connectors have not been replaced even though the problem was documented by repair order complaint within the warranty period.
So why am I bothering with this extensive Internet Rant? It's because I believe in the principle that "every dog deserves one bite" more then the more generous "three strikes and you're out", although GM has taken more than three strikes for their "out" in this instance. Nobody expects any manufacturer of a complicated piece of machinery to get everything perfect, every time. But when things turn out less perfect than expected, the customer has every right to expect the manufacturer to:-
1) Deliver undamaged new product to the customer,
2) Make Technical Service Bulletins public information,
3) Stand by it's Warranty rather than lying about a problem, or its seriousness, until after warranty expiration, and
4) Make repairs during warranty for any reason, not just for issues that may be safety or recall related.
For the past 35-years or so, we have always had at least one vehicle from each of the domestic big 3 manufacturers and one import in the family and have ample history on customer service from each.
Ford has never presented warranty problems but the Fix Or Repair Daily acronym does tend to present itself more frequently with age. We have had EXPENSIVE warranty issues with both Chrysler and Mitsubishi but, in both instances, dealers and manufacturers stepped up to take care of all problems completely, promptly and at no cost. Longer term, the Mitsubishi became unreliable and very expensive to maintain, however, but only GM has proven to be the renegade. Sadly, one only finds out about it when its too late.
Our only answer is that my extended family has boycotted GM since their outrageous customer relations attitude became evident and we will continue to do so indefinitely -- that's quite a few vehicles that GM will not sell over a generation or two assuming that their attitude does not bankrupt them in the meantime -- something that it looks more and more as if they're capable of doing with or without any help from me. My hope is that this information spreads far and wide through this and other forums, that readers take my comments to heart and do themselves the biggest favor by boycotting GM too! In the long run, you'll thank me and your pocketbook will thank me, not to mention the frustration you'll avoid in trying to deal with a totally indifferent, adversarial organization.
Suggest any websites?
Any help would be appreciated
Thanks
Sometimes a lifter or two in my '95 Grand Am (3.1) make waaaay too much noise. Sometimes they sound "normal", others I wonder if the whole neighborhood can hear it when I start the thing. Sometimes, it quiets after a few seconds, others it can go on for minutes or until I can't take the noise anymore so I drive something else.
Has anyone had this lifter tap on the 3.1V6 and cured it? HOW?
when i put mine in the shop he told me since im close to 100,000 miles to have the timing chain replaced and timing chain tentioner...and when i replaced the egr valve it helped alot with the acceleration ... however i dont know what to tell you about the problems starting but i hope i have helped you in some way
Bill
Does anyone know if this problem can be repaired and what could have caused it?
Good luck
I hope it helps.
starter and one end on the frame
Gearr
Does anyone know if this problem can be repaired and what could have caused it?
You have to be careful with the 12V outlets. Put any plugs straight into them and pull them out straight. Some of the plugs are easy to put in crooked enough that you can short out the socket and blow the fuse.
Is there any way to find out exactly what could be missing? I have looked over my auto repair book with a fine tooth comb and cannot find a picture of one.
I tried to add a pic on here and it would let me. I have a good picture of the pulleys.
Thanks, Julie">
Your coolant leakage/disappearance is almost certainly due to failed intake manifold gaskets. Gradually the rate of leakage will increase until you start getting low coolant dashboard warnings. You may also start seeing some oil consumption between changes as a result of the same condition. GM is well aware of this long-standing problem but will do nothing to assist you or to stand by their product defect. Meanwhile, your dealership will be laughing all the way to the bank. Unless you're handy enough to tackle the job yourself, figure on ultimately forking out somewhere between $700 and $800.
Good luck