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Comments
Glen04
1. Is there some way to get the code? or to get around this problem?
2. How do you go about unlocking the stereo even if you have the code?
btw, I live in Central America. No GM dealerships nearby...
Thanks.
1) with the rear heater, is there anything different that needs to be done in changing coolant (I assume there is separate heat exhange at the rear of the truck)? Or do I just flush, etc as usual?
2) any tricks to getting those rear spark plugs out? They sure look like they're in tight quarters. We had an old Bonneville w/ 305 engine, had to take the passenger tire off to get at the plug. Any similar tricks on this engine?
Any other tricks or tips appreciated! Thanks in advance.
IMPORTANT: Starting in 1995, a factory back-up code can be used to erase the original code if it is unknown.
Have account number ready to enter when asked. Account number is your five digit dealer code followed by one of these numbers:
* Chevrolet - 1
* Pontiac -2
* Oldsmobile -3
* Buick -4
* GMT-5
* Cadillac -6
* GM Canada -7
* Saturn -8
Read all steps before starting the procedure.
If more than 15 seconds elapse between any of the steps, the radio automatically reverts to time and you must start the procedure over from step 1. In order to unlock the Theftlock(TM) system when code is unknown, perform the following steps:
1. Press and hold push buttons 2 and 3 until a three digit code appears on the display.
2. Write the three digit code on a piece of paper.
3. Press the AM/FM push button, a three digit code will appear on the display again.
4. Write the three digit code on a piece of paper.
5. Call Delco Electronics at 1-800 - 537 - 5140.
6. Follow the computer prompts to obtain the back-up code to be used in place of unknown code.
7. Press MN and 000 will appear on the display.
8. Press and hold MN until the last two digits agree with the back-up code.
9. Press and hold HR until the first one or two digits agree with the back-up code.
10. Press the AM/FM push button after you have confirmed that the code matches the one you wrote down. If REP appears on the display, repeat steps 7 through 10.
11. The display will show "- - -" to indicate unknown code has been removed.
If the back-up code does not unlock the radio, try reversing the first and last three digits of the display code.
Book says that for manual transmission it takes a professional mechanic with all the lifts, tools, etc. about 3.6 hours and for the automatic, about 6.5 hours.
I have a 2001 Tahoe that seems to have the same problem. When stopping at slow speeds the ABS turns on and it is annoying. I called Checy and of course my vehicle was not eligible for the recall. My question to you is: Did you try shooting some brake cleaner and blow some compressed air to see if this would fix your problem of did you just go out and purchase the new sensor. Was it the process of elimination that caused you to make your decision OR did you just gather some informaiton and change the sensors? How did you determine it was the wheel hub bearing? Anyhow, did you do any other maintenance while you installed the wheel hub bearing? Thank you for any input. I'll assume that the recall was for the year 1999 to 2001 so it would be pretty much the same process as far as repair.
You'd only have transmission fluid all over the place, if something punctured the case. You could have gears stripped inside, and no leak.
Shouldn't have been driving it while damaged, you may have made the problem worse, but too late now.
When my '96 went a number of years ago, it was like a $1600 repair IIRC (went to the local AAMCO). They can't quote for certain and give you a valid estimate till they open it up, and see what all is damaged out of the hundreds of parts that are in there. I know in my case, there were 3 internal pieces that got damaged and needed replaced....but this could obviously vary greatly. Labor costs vary widely across the country, but you could easily be in the $1500 - $2500 range as a rough order of magnitude ballpark swag.
out of spec. My cam retard was -16, meaning it was -14/-16 out of spec. Got it down to -1, and it runs like never before, not setting codes anymore either. Hope this helps.
Battery and alternator can be check for free at auto parts superstores, look for one that does load testing.
As an owner of a 2007 Sub as well, your bearing statement concerns me, as well as it should you. If the bearing fails, you'll have a catastrophic failure with the possibility if driving causing a major accident. I would expect that you'd also have horrendous tire wear.
As far as I'm concerned, if you have a wheel bearing problem, that should be covered under warranty, that's not a wear and tear item. Your highway mileage could be greatly effected by a wheel bearing/alignment issue. I get around 19 on the highway, much better than my 97 Sub, or even my smaller Ford SUV.
My question is are all of these problems related, or am I dealing with multiple, individual issues? Could the exposed trailer wires done something to the electrical system? Is it prudent to have the ABS module replaced and then go from there?
Depending how the short is actually being made, it could be providing voltage where there shouldn't be on a wire, or drawing too much current.
You need to treat these as individual issues, to fix each one. The trailer plug/cord can be rewired and then checked out to ensure no shorts, and all circuits working correctly for an external power source.
Disconnect the trailer brake unit so you are back to the OEM ABS unit only, and get that fixed. Now your tow vehicle is back to original specs.
Because your trailer brake unit was smoking, I would assume it's blown, and personally would just go get another new one. Add that into the vehicle, and then connect the trailer back together.
I have had the radiator replaced with a brand new one. And I never see any water puddles under the engine except a pretty sizable one that always forms under the AC compressor (hot, humid climate here) A couple of mechanics have checked it for engine problems (head gasket) and haven't found anything. (engine running smooth, etc)
Any ideas what to check?
Guess you could try replacing the water pump and hoses, last ditch chance before tearing into the engine. But also verify that your heater cores are not leaking.
VISITING HOST
If the light keeps coming back on that means the problem is still there.
Do a search on bad gauges, you'll find a number of posts, and companies that rebuild them for you. Video's on how to disassemble and mail off the part for repair.
But make sure that is indeed the problem, before sending off for a new gauge.