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M
Yes, this is bad! Smoke means either electrical overloading or mechanical malfunction and where there is smoke there is fire. Get it checked out ASAP.
tidester, host
If really smoke do not drive as tidester said until the cause is determined.
cellar for a long time. I want to try and recharge the a/c
on my 93 s10 blazer. Where is the low pressure valve located?
thanks
Bill
Thanks,
Chintan Talati
Corporate Communications
Edmunds.com
1983-1985 - 2.8 L LR2 V6, 2-barrel carbureted, 110 hp (82 kW)/148 ft·lbff (201 N·m) (VIN
1986-1993 - 2.8 L LL1 V6, TBI, 125 hp (93 kW)/150 ft·lbff (203 N·m) (VIN R)
and down.. is that a sign i need a new alternator?? :confuse: if i turn everything on brights,radio,ac,dope lights,wipers the gauge go's into the red pretty much
VIN#1GKCS13WXR0524030. First I would like to know where the crank sensor is? I have put a new computer in,new TPS sensor in, Also put a new fuel regulator and Injector system in. Getting fuel up to where you check fuel pressour getting 60 lbs then drops to 13 to 14 lbs getting fire It will start when I squirt gas into it then when I stop it stops running Please help :sick:
I dont seem to know the differences between the Chevrolt Blazer and the GMC Jimmy. Can someone point out the differences to me... which is better, mechanically and functional. Are they exactly the same size? They seem the same to me.... please help.. anyone?
Thanks Hector
Steve, Host
But if this is an S-10 Blazer not full size thats a 2.8L car motor or a small 2.5L 4 cyl - I would really think twice before getting into one 20 years old unless you work on vehicles cause you will have to alot.
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Thanks
Paul
nathan10 tech
Is that where they should be?
Kirk
http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/18/bc- /6f/0900823d8018bc6f.jsp
First is the battery voltage good, fuel filter new, and no fuel leaks in the lines? Need a min of 60psi to start as you have found out. Pump or regulator - pump over $500 and regulator $65. The regulator maintains pressure so a dealer uses a special tester with a valve that they can slowly crank shut and watch. Home mechanics temporarily squeeze the return line off at the flexible plastic section taking care to not damage it and not allowing the pressure to increase above 75psi or line damage may occur. If the pressure does increase the pump is probably good (holds pressure so good pump damper, check valve, and internal tank fuel line connections) and this points to the regulator return pressure spring (or to a leaking diaphram or injector poppet) If pressure does not increase past 60psi the pump is probably bad. After 2 sec the key must be off for 10 sec before it will operate the pump for an additional 2 sec prime.