Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options

Dodge Ram Transmission Problems

12357…42

Comments

  • Options
    jenn2517jenn2517 Member Posts: 1
    I have an automatic 2000 Dodge Ram. When it comes out of first gear and going into second it will rev up to 4 or 5000 rpms and then the rpms will slowly go back to where they should be to shift gears. It does this no matter what gear it is shifting too. Am I better off to replace the entire transmission and torque converter? Any thoughts?
  • Options
    kseyksey Member Posts: 9
    :sick: :mad: :confuse: I have a 2001 dodge Ram 1500 46re I rebuild it because went I got it it wouldn't shift out of drive it had low,rev and drive no up shift .I rebuild it put new pump,torque,space washers new solenoid even try a different valve boby and it still wouldn't shift took it to the dealer and they check the computer and trans. they said the trans had a leak in the front drum so I pull it out and went back thought it again didn't fine any bad seals replace them anyway. It still won't shift need help bad.
    THANKS A HEAD OF TIME
  • Options
    ak_wolffeak_wolffe Member Posts: 1
    I have an 04 1500 5.7l with 36K on it. I had the 30k service done and after noticed the trans does not downshift like it used to. Dealer checked it out and says everything is fine. It works if I'm cruising at say 60(realy any highway speed) it takes a long push on the pedal to get it to kick down from OD with little pickup then another long push to get it to kick down another gear. When it does kick down it realy launches. The dealer also suggested it might be the large tires but they are only 275 70R 17. Like I said it works but feels like my shift points were reprogrammed or someting. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • Options
    dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Could be a clogged drain back valve or a clogged filter.

    How's the fluid look?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • Options
    bobby918bobby918 Member Posts: 1
    Last week I was climbing a rather steep hill while pulling a load of about 3000lbs and it seemed like the truck was really struggling to pull. It was in drive with OD off. After I got to the stop sign (level surface) at the top of the hill it seemed as if I had to push the gas pedal almost all the way down in order to move. After I got going it shifted well with no slippage however, everytime I stop now and go to start I have to push the pedal really far to get going (load or not) unless I manually shift it into 1st then it moves like it used to. Please send some advice.

    Thanks,
    Bobby918
  • Options
    dodge5therdodge5ther Member Posts: 2
    1998 2500 12v 4X4 only mods is a 4" exhaust,K&N air filter. The trans was over hauled by AAMCO but they couldn't get the temps down, but were very happy overhauling my trans.(Shift kit, single plate TC). I pull a 5th wheel. CGVW of both 20k. I installed a trans gauge on the line comimg out of the trans heading up to block cooler. When pulling a hill temps go to 250F in 3rd gear. In 4th above 1700rpm temps are 160-190F. The only thing I have found is the trans will not go into 3rd or 4th if temps go over 260F, but it didn't say were they got the temp readings. Does any one know what the reading should be? What is the best thing I could do to drop the temp down when pulling (larger pan, Trans cooler and fan, or extra duty TC)?
  • Options
    dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Your 46RE is designed not to make the 3-4 shift if the ATF temperature is above 240 degrees F measured at the internal temperature sensor.

    If this with the maximum load the temperature of 160-190F is actually very good at 1700 RPM.

    Now the 20,000 CGVW seems above a '98 3/4 ton chassis limit and could explain the high temperatures on hills.

    Does the engine temperature also climb? If it does the radiator might not be flowing well (partially clogged) or the radiator might not be expelling heat fast enough under load from lose or corroded cooling fins. It could be that the coolant temperature is overheating the ATF.

    As far as the tranny goes, over tightened bands can cause this on the Mopar "RE" series, among other things.

    Lastly, I hope AAMCO used ATF+4 or at least ATF+3. Dexron-Mercon or Dexron-Mercon with a friction modifier additive will cause Mopar trannys to run considerably hotter. A lot of transmissions shops will use Dexron with an additive because its a lot cheaper than ATF+3 or 4. But it won't work right.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • Options
    dodge5therdodge5ther Member Posts: 2
    Thanks dusty. I am going to install a larger pan.
    The ATS looks nice but themag-hytec looks like it has more cooling fins. I like ATS cooling system but Derale also has one. Any comments? I am going to change the fluid when I change the pan
  • Options
    kseyksey Member Posts: 9
    46re I have no gov. pressure or front servo presure.cheched valve boby it all looks good took tran apart can't fine anything wrong.dose the valve boby in let for the gov got to be drill the hole is 2/3 open. DUSTY PLEASE HELP. I HAVE DONE EVERY THING I KNOW
  • Options
    wolfer3wolfer3 Member Posts: 3
    Hi,

    I have a 2001 1500 with a 46re transmission that works fine when "cold". After about 6 miles it won't downshift into first gear when I stop. All other shifts go smooth and it will go into first if I manually shift to low. The governor pressure at 0 mph in drive is 0 psi when cold and goes to 7 psi when warmed up and malfunctioning. Governor pressure sensor signal (b29 on pcm)when cold was .37 volts. Ground control to governor pressure solenoid (b8 on pcm) when cold was 9.27 volts. All these test were in drive at 0 mph. The pressure dropped back to 0 psi if reverse or park was selected. When put back in drive, 2, or 1 the pressure goes back up IF the transmission is warm. The only reference voltages I have are for a 42re so if anyone can help me out with the voltages from the pcm to transmission for a 46re it would be greatly appreciated or of course anyone who knows what the problem is please feel free to jump in. :)

    Thanks,
    Wolfer
  • Options
    dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    How are you taking measurements?

    What is the line pressure?

    What have you done so far?

    What was the original symptom/problem?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • Options
    dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    In Drive the governor pressure should be anywhere from 0 to +50 PSI. It would be nice to know what the line pressure is and how many miles on the vehicle.

    Possible causes could be:

    *1-2 Shift Valve binding or stuck (worn bore)

    *Shuttle Valve binding or stuck (worn bore)

    *Limit Valve or Limit Valve Cover leaking

    *2-3 Throttle Plug leaking

    *Worn bore at 2-3 Shift Valve

    *Defective shift solenoids

    *Test all circuits to the shift pack

    *Valve body clogged

    *Warped valve body

    *Leaky governor plugs or governor plug cover.

    Bests,
    Dusty
  • Options
    bandi7bandi7 Member Posts: 3
    I bought a dodge ram, cash, today,
    and it is missing a mounting bracket thing for the transmission... I think it is causing harm, and adding stress to it, I dont know what it is called- so im not sure how to order it....
    Thanks- I really need it fixed soon-
  • Options
    dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Bandi,

    First, it is always much more helpful when you're seeking advice or information to include the year, model, engine, transmission, 2-wheel drive or 4x4, mileage, etc., information of the vehicle. I'm really unsure of the item your trying to describe.

    If you have an idea of what is missing and where it goes, I would recommend that you go to a Dodge dealer. At this point they are the best bet for helping you.

    Good luck and best regards,
    Dusty
  • Options
    kseyksey Member Posts: 9
    The trans wouldn't pull went it shift to 2nd the trans was shot .I rebuild it put new troque converter,pump,thrust washer,new sensors,any thing I saw bad. Be though it 3 times can't fine anything .I check the pressure at the accumulator and got 58lbs push the tv lever back and got 98lb so I checked the front servo and 0lbs.Then I checked the governor and 0lbs I pull the valve boby out and cheched all the valve they all work good.Isee the hole that feeds the governor is only 2/3 open dose it have to drill out.I all so chech the pcm and the volt and trans relay I can't fine anything please help me I can't fine anyboby than will told you anything. Thanks Dusty for any help you can give me
  • Options
    dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Are you referring to the port on the Throttle Body that feeds the governor circuit? Are you saying that it's partially blocked?

    If you are absolutely sure that you got everything back together correctly, I'm now suspicious that you have an electrical problem or a defective PCM or TCM.

    *Make sure all of the valves are installed correctly.

    *There are seven check balls in the upper throttle body housing, one of them is considerably larger. Are they installed and installed correctly.

    *There is a 3/16 check ball in the lower housing. Measure it. You may have switched it with the one large ball from the upper housing.

    *Did you reuse the old separator plate?

    Did you have a service manual or some instructions when you tore the throttlebody apart?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • Options
    bandi7bandi7 Member Posts: 3
  • Options
    bandi7bandi7 Member Posts: 3
    It is a dodge ram 1500, 3 seater- (club cab?)
    4x4 1998 120k milage - v8 - gas guzzler :)-
    It has a 6" lift, with 36" super swampers-
  • Options
    kseyksey Member Posts: 9
    I had a guy that rebuild trans for a living help me all the ball are in the right place all the valve look and work good we can't fine anything wrong we all so check the computer we can't anything and I'm not getting any codes the dealer don't know thanks. the hold is a feeder for the governor it 2/3 open it part of the casting.
  • Options
    surfer5274surfer5274 Member Posts: 3
    There is a way to increase line pressure, but depending on your model year there is a possibility that it will set a code in the computer for "line pressure too high." As far as the rpm flux, there is a software update that can be obtained at the dealer. They also have an issue with rapid torque converter engaging and disengaging. this is usually between 45 and 50 mph with a light load (either going up a slight incline or towing a light load.) The most critical thing about these tranny's is the FLUID! You must use type 7176 ATF+3 or +4. Dexron/Mercon and Type F fluids will eat the clutch material and the converter clutch material. And because it has a different viscosity than the other fluids, it messes with the calibration of the sensors. Has anyone ever had to replace the governor pressure sensor or pressure solenoid? If so, I imagine you were probably using the wrong fluid. And that's easily done if you don't either do it yourself or if you don't take it to the dealer. Most after-market shops will use Dexron/Mercon or Type F.

    I work at an Atlanta area Chrysler, Jeep, Dodge dealer. And oh yeah, I've been rebuilding their transmissions for the last 10 years. Chrysler trannys have been very, very good to me!

    Eric
  • Options
    joeycordobajoeycordoba Member Posts: 1
    the other day my 95 2500 4x4 stopped moving just as i pulled in my drive. like it was in nutrual. if i put it in 1st it moved, reverse ok. fluid looked ok a little dark but there was smoke coming out of the dip stick! next day i drove it around the yard everything was ok, half mile down the road a whining noise started, then a growl, then screeching, then wheels started locking up. i let off the gas all got quiet. turned around and had to rev to 3000 rpm to get to move than it slammed into gear. i made it home but very slow. the fluid does not smell burnt. is my trans toast? friend said it could be transfer case?
  • Options
    wolfer3wolfer3 Member Posts: 3
    Hi,

    The transmission has 98,000 miles on it. When I changed the oil it was a little dark, but not for 98,000 miles I suppose. There was very light fuzz on the magnet and no metal of any size anywhere in the pan. The transmission has been malfunctioning for about 2 months now. I just manually shift into first anytime I stop and all is good. Line pressure is 56 psi(0 throttle) to 92 psi (tv wide open). 7 psi at 0 mph in drive is not normal I know. I'm thinking governor pressure sensor, governor pressure solenoid, or PCM. If anyone has the proper voltages for the sensor and solenoid to the PCM it would sure help me isolate the problem. The only reference voltages I have are for a 42RE.
    Thanks, Wolfer
  • Options
    kseyksey Member Posts: 9
    Dusty the hold is make that way it just look like it's closed. is the tcm part of the pcm will it keep me from get codes
  • Options
    abboq1abboq1 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    Thank you in advance for any help you can provide. I have a 1995 Dodge Ram with a 360 and an automatic.

    Two separate issues affect it:

    1. Last time I changed the fluid and filter, I found a wedge-shaped piece of metal laying in the pan. It had a notch on one end. Can anyone tell me what this is, and how missing it will affect the transmission?

    2. Recently, the transmission would not shift from first to second. I was told that the throttle position sensor may be faulty. After removing the throttle position cable from the linkage on the throttle body, the transmission would shift through all of the gears.

    Thank you again for any insights you can provide. ~Joel (abboq1)
  • Options
    kseyksey Member Posts: 9
    The wedge-shaped is off the front band adjustment with out it you don't have 2nd
  • Options
    jduniganjdunigan Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 Ram 1500 2wd with automatic transmssion. There are about 130K miles on the truck and the transmission has had regular fluid and filter change. When the check engine light came on some time ago, the mechanic who read the code said it was the sensor that tells the speedometer what speed the truck is going. I didn't repair it. All was well until yesterday when the truck wouldn't shift from 1st to 2nd until it reached a speed of about 35 or 40 mph. I then noticed that when starting out from a dead stop, the speedometer needle didn't move until about the same time the transmission shifted when it would jump to 35 or 40 mph or so. To complicate things, sometimes both speedometer and transmission work normally. Any idea what;s wrong and how to fix it?
  • Options
    dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The prime suspect is likely a defective Vehicle Speed Sensor, also known as a Rear Wheel Speed Sensor, or the associated wiring going to it. This sensor is located on the rear differential housing and is easily replaced from the outside of the differential housing.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • Options
    jduniganjdunigan Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, I'll try that tomorrow.
  • Options
    tubugstubugs Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1997 Ram 1500 that starts and drives fine but after 10 minutes goes to neutral. If I stop the car shut it of and restart I can drive a few miles. The in goes to neutral again. I stop and restart again and all is fine again.

    I drove 30 miles today and just made it home.

    Any Ideas. I just bought it a week ago.
  • Options
    dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Have you checked the transmission fluid level?

    How many miles?

    What is the transmission maintenance and service history?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • Options
    rickthehickrickthehick Member Posts: 1
    so heres the deal, and i'm hoping someone out there has a real simple fix. i have a 01 ram 2500 diesel with 140,000 on it. and probly with in the past week it has not wanted to shift from first to second gear unless i really rev the engine. then it shifts fine for the rest. once warmed up it refuses to shift down to first at all when copletely stoped unless i manually put it there. its a 47re trans i believe. and keep in mind that i've never had to change or add any fluid to it. i've checked it everytime i changed the oil and it was always full and nice and clean. also, just for the heck of it i did change the fluid and filter and still its no better. any ideas would be greatly appreciated. oh, and just so you know, i'm no tranny guy, so when it comes to line pressures and that kinda stuff, i have no clue.
  • Options
    dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Check the Throttle Position Cable that goes from the throttle lever on the side of the throttlebody to the transsmission for binding or a broken (missing) return spring.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • Options
    tubugstubugs Member Posts: 3
    The truck has 149k miles, Fluid level is good and looks ok. If I restart after the truck is off only 20 seconds it is fine. History is unknown I just bought it.
  • Options
    dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The following are possible causes:

    *Low fluid level

    *Partially clogged transmission filter.

    *Partially clogged or defective Drain Back Valve (check cooling lines for sludge build up).

    * Gear shift cable loose, binding or misadjusted (check operation in first gear selection. If no problem this is a likely cause).

    *Burnt or badly worn rear clutch.

    *Valve body malfunction: sticking valves, worn bores, excessively dirty. Bad electrical connections to Shift Solenoids.

    *Worn or damaged Input Shaft Seal Rings

    *Broken Overrunning Clutch.

    *Broken Front Planetary Gearset

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • Options
    tubugstubugs Member Posts: 3
    I will probably change the fluid to be sure. It does have 149k.

    Where is the brain back valve. It does have a cooler in front of the radiator.

    Thanks for the help.

    I know Ford transmission but do not know anything on the Dodge's

    Shane
  • Options
    rambo57rambo57 Member Posts: 7
    My transmission shifts without any problem when cold and when it's cool outside. However, after driving for 15 minutes in hot temperatures, it seems to have trouble shifting from 3rd to 4th. I sometimes actually have to let off of the throttle to get it to shift. On cooler days, I've driven for an hour without any problem. It seems to be temperature related. Any ideas?
  • Options
    red4x4ramred4x4ram Member Posts: 1
    The specs
    85,000ish miles
    5.9L
    4 Speed Auto
    4x4

    The problem

    Transmission will not shift out of 1st. MIL Code 37 comes up and the Transmission Shop is saying a P 0740 code is the only fault code present. Both codes lead to torque converter not locking.

    The history

    Truck has lived it’s last four years as the third vehicle and only gets about 3K per year (I love the MPG on the motorcycle). Transmission has been service twice in its life and was nearing (or past) service #3. In the past year or so (probably longer) I notice the hose leading to the trans cooler was seeping. My just “watch the fluid level” approach did allow the fluid level to get low a few times but was topped off at the first sign of slipping. Recently the truck saw a bit more action and was called up for towing duty. Towed a car on a u-Haul trailer about 100 miles. About half way home I noticed the O/D automatically cut off (I understand it does this when the temp gets high). Slowed down for the rest of the trip with no hard accelerations. O/D came back on about 15 miles later. No more problems until I reached my destination and dropped car off. When leaving to return the trailer I noticed the tans slipping a bit. Took it easy and dropped off the trailer. When leaving u-haul, trans was slipping bad and anything over 25 mph was impossible. Milked it the 2 miles home. Checked fluid level and it was OK but smelled slightly burnt. Seeing if $20 and an hours time could fix it I dropped the pan and changed the filter. Slight build up of sludge on the bottom of the pan and the fluid had suspended brass particles. Put everything back together and topped off the fluid. Trans is not slipping any longer but it won’t shift out of 1st.

    The fix?

    Based on the lack of fault codes that make sense, the shop recommends a rebuild in the range of $1,400 to $2,500. Before I give the go ahead I’m doing my due diligence to make sure it’s not a simple problem and the shop is just not trying to rip me off.

    Is the trans toast or are there any simple items to check before a full rebuild is authorized.

    Thanks
  • Options
    boogs1boogs1 Member Posts: 2
    My truck has 13000 miles on it but has had this problem since 3000 miles. It id not want to go into gear from reverse to drive once. It doesn't change gears smoothly. and it feels like it drops out of overdrive. It also idles rough. The strange thing is it doesn't do it all of the time. The dealership overhauled the trans 2x and put a ring and pion gear also. Its still doing it. Been in the shop 4x. The say they don't know whats wrong. Its just the nature of the truck..... I have owned 3 more dodges no problems like this. Can anyone give me some idea besides its a :lemon:
    Thanks
  • Options
    dragbarondragbaron Member Posts: 1
    i have a 99 dakota r/t with 52k. trans works great the first 10-20 minutes, then starts not wanting to go into od. at first it'll flare up before it shifts into od, and if you drive it long enough, you can't get od at all. i just finished changing the governor soleniod, pressure soleniod, and the od/lockup soleniods. $350.00 later, and still the same problem. which cooler line has the anti-drainback valve, and could this be the problem? any other ideas?
  • Options
    dieseldougdieseldoug Member Posts: 2
    Just got a 2007 RAM 2500 with the 5.9 Cummins. First two tank fulls, I averaged 19.2 - 19.3. Since then mileage has steadily gone down. Am at 17.2 - 17.4 now & falling. This is a combo of highway & around town towing nothing (yet). For some reason, the truck is holding gears longer, even when I let up on the gas, which I think is causing the mileage decrease. The trans (48RE) shifts fine otherwise, except for a bit of a clunk from 1 - 2. No mods have been made to the truck whatsoever. Currently has 2600 miles on it. Has anyone experienced this yet? Any ideas? I was told by a Dodge guy that the PCM controls the trans. So maybe it needs to be reflashed by the deealer? If so, that makes me wonder what pushed it our of whack in the first place. The only strain at all on the truck to date has been 30 minutes of wheelin' in the local sand pits just to see how it would do. (Went up a 25' sand pile no sweat that stopped an F350 Powerstroke cold. Nice.) Otherwise, that's it. Thanks in advance for your time on this.
  • Options
    dtighedtighe Member Posts: 1
    Im having f issues with my 2007 dodge 2500 cummins with a 6 speed automatic transmission. I have taken it in on five separate occasions . What advice can someone give me? Has anyone else had these types of problems? Specifically, clunking noises in the transmission when decelerating from a speed of 35 mph and stoping at 10mph their is a clunking . Please give me any advice or information you have and how to go about this to get further assistance from chrysler. thanks
  • Options
    sirkingdaddysirkingdaddy Member Posts: 2
    Hello, and ty for having such a site.I am puzzled by my transmisson problems.I bought this truck from a used car dealer.105,ooo miles and the trans temp light and od light keeps playing mind games.I still owe 3700 on this truck.Took it to a transmission shop and they said leave it for a day.I didnt feel safe doing that when they couldnt even talk to me about it..Just leave and they will check it out.Well i went to a mechanic down the road.He said with the miles and the look of the fluid it would need a new trans.Oh i forgot to mention the day i took this truck to get looked at the temp and od light went off.I was like that figures.Well thinking should i just take the loss and take the truck back and save the 3700 i owe and put towards a new truck?any advice will help..But i wouldnt feel right without changing the filter so i did and in the bottom of the pan the magnet had about an 1/2" of gray looking milky substance was thinking this truck was under water..alot of shavings also..The magnet also had a little chip..very small one but anyhow changed and yes used atf-4 and wouldnt u know now the trans and 0d is on every other min..It seems to shift alitte hard in the last gear.I can hear almost like the sound of uv going bad..but i know its not because no noise when shifting into gear.Sorry for the long speech but i dont know what to do..You cant trust most of these shops.Any advice will help Ty.
  • Options
    titanium29titanium29 Member Posts: 38
    Dieseldoug,
    I'm not a mechanic, or a Cummins guru. But I do own an 06 3500 with the CID. I stop by my dealer from time to time to shoot the breeze. About a month ago I was in asking him about the 07's. He said the one problem they have had was a flash update needed to be done with regard to a "particulate burn frequency" with the new Cat-back emission control stuff on the new ones. He said they would begin dropping mileage at first (sound familiar) and some guys even had to have them towed in as they would stop running altogther. He said those were the guys who left them idling for long periods of time which clogged the cat-back. He said getting on it real good here and there has help some of them too. If you haven't visited your dealer for a flash update, it might be worth the inquiry. Good luck...Titanium29
  • Options
    ah24ah24 Member Posts: 1
    I got a 98 dodge ram that won't shift from 1st to second gear. I tried changing sensors but nothing seems to work. Any suggesions?
  • Options
    96ramslt96ramslt Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 96 Ram 1500 SLT and have not had problem with the transmission till today. when i started driving it throught the neighborhood it shifted fine till i got the the first stop sign then when i started going it shifted hard into second gear but then it didnt do it for the rest of the day? so is it just because i should of let it idle for a couple min before i got on my way or wht.. its a 5.2 l.
  • Options
    sootmansootman Member Posts: 1
    Hi all
    I see I'm not alone with my trans. issues. I've got a 2001 5.9 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4, 113k on it. Bought it used at 92k, no service history prior to that. Appears all stock, no perf. mods. or oversized tires. Trans. was fine when I purchased, began to start in 2nd after a stop around 105k. Would be fine if I manually downshifted to 1st, which I did for a while. Very occasionally would go down to 1st on it's own. Eventually began to shift down to 1st more frequently (maybe 20%) always followed by a delayed 1-2 shift @ approx. 2800 rpm. Seemed more likely to hit 1st when cold-could always count on it when leaving home in the AM, again with a late 1-2 shift. Somewhere around this time, the pan actually ROTTED out (on a 2001, WTF?) and I replaced pan, gasket, and filter w/ new from Dealer, as well as refilling with ATF+4. Was hoping this might help problem but it remained unchanged. Today, after using for errands, truck sat for 2-3 hours, when I went to leave, had only 1st gear. Drove home slowly! All other shifts and OD have always been fine until today, never had the RPM fluctuation that others have complained of. Fluid looks good, smells good. Oh, check engine light came on 2-3 months ago. Had scanned @ Autozone soon after. Can't find printout for code # but 99% sure it was "governor voltage reading outside of expected range". (wording may not be 100% correct) Seems like a control issue to me. I hate to just change parts randomly without further diagnostics I'm probably not capable of. Any thoughts? Where should I go from here? Trade it in now on the Tundra I was too cheap to buy 2 years ago LOL! Thanks in advance!
  • Options
    mikeyjohnmikeyjohn Member Posts: 365
    I have had my truck since last June to pull my 5th wheel.I notice that sometimes my transmission shift lever will not go into park but gets stuck in reverse and then my horn will start beeping like mad and the truck will start rolling backwards. 2 weeks ago I put a hole in the front cap of my new 5th wheel and damaged my box rail. I am hearing the Dodge knew this was a problem with the transmission and instead of fixing it, they added this beeping sound, yet I can't find anything in the manual to verify this. It is going to cost me about a grand to fix the damage. Has anyone had a similar problem or have heard of this? :mad:
  • Options
    KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Yep, the "alarm" was made a recall for 2003-2005 and is standard on 2006-2008 trucks. If your shifter is indeed getting stuck in R, you definitely want to get the linkage checked. I've not had that happen with my 2005 3500 in 50,000 miles.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • Options
    mikeyjohnmikeyjohn Member Posts: 365
    Thanks, I thought this might be the reason but I did not read this anywhere. I will get my tranny checked after my damage is fixed.
  • Options
    kseyksey Member Posts: 9
    check the wires on the valve body sound like you got one shorting out on the temp.switch. my 2001 46re did the same thing no one could fine it the wires are about $10.00 dollars put my in and it shift good
    good luck
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles