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The wiring harness that goes form door to the body of the car is crap !
I found 3 broken wires hidden underneath the rubber boot that goes from the door to the body. The power wire for the windows, the main ground wire, and a 3rd smaller wire all were broken.
For some reason, the wire is cheap, and by opening and closing the door all the time it weakens the wires when they bend and they just break. I fixed all 3 of the wires, and now.. the windows work, the door locks work, the mirrors work, and best of all, the FREAKIN door Ajar light issue that I have had for over a year, is resolved as well.
Guess this is a common problem with these Fords, and a major headache.
Good luck !!
How did you get to the wires inside the boot? Did you cut it off?
I appreciate your help.
Thanks
Jeff
Also, check your ALT gauge, if it shows normal charging, most likely your alternator is ok. IF not, that's where you should go first.
Lastly, it could be a ground connection, or even a loose terminal on the battery.
But, I'm betting on the battery.
I have since read on this blog of a similar problem that some one else had and they only replaced the V2V valve, now am wondering if I got taken by ford yet again, anyway I have also had to replace the ball joints in front at 72000 miles, so I would be interested in a suit
Could be electrical, or fuel, like a burst pressure hose that was spilling gas, which caught fire? Who knows?
It's 10 years old, old cars have issues. Very sad this happened, it's not your fault, but not likely anybody's fault. It's not
Ford's fault, their Explorers are generally very durable and dependable. More likely a mechanic error, left a clamp off or maybe a bad piece of tube or hose?
Yes, you'll have to pay for the car, and if you didn't have Comprehensive insurance, you aren't covered. As I said, it sucks, and I feel very badly for you. :sick:
I know that the alternator works (at least most of the time because the battery stays charged) and might just periodically fail (diode stuck open?). I'd hate to replace the alternator just to find that the system indicator is actually triggered by some other component.
Has anyone had similar symptoms and found a different cause of the problem?
:mad:
We also cannot get the oil life message reset....
Help!
I tried bulb change to no avail.
Failing those two possibilities, it will probably need a new panel.
TIA
When reestablishing the ground point, I use anti corrosive paste and star washers. (Star washer lead(s) star washer, flat washer and then nut or screw). I can not even count the number of times I have found this to be the cure.
DO NOT replace high buck items unless that component fails on a bench test. For example almost any battery supplier has a tester for testing the battery under load.
PS: If the grounding point is severely deteriorated, make up a new grounding conductor and add that to the original grounding point and connect the new lead to a good clean chassis point. I have gone so far as to drill a 5/16ths hole in a good clean frame point and then ground the new ground wire there with a bolt and washers and anti corrosive.
IF you have the Accelerator position sensor located inside the cab at the top of your accelerator, you have a ""drive by wire system" and you will need a good mechanic with the proper test equipment to diagnose the source of your problem. BUT you could check the wiring going to the throttle body. My bet is that you disturbed a wiring connection. You should be getting an engine warning light coming on on your dash. You can read out the codes the hard way if you have a haynes or similar manual, but a good readout instrument such as the Actron makes the checkup much easier. A few mechanics will charge you $35.00 to give you the answer with their test instrument.
On a different aspect of your repair: I am very tight when it comes to replacing components such as batteries and Alternators and do not do so until I have bench tested those components. Nearly any parts supplier has the test equipment to check the condition of these components and will do so if you bring the alt. or battery or both into them. Some can and will test them on your vehicle for free or a very nominal price.
Don't waste your money unnecessarily replacing components, and DO use only trustworthy mechanics. In today's market, FAR too many are parts swappers who will break your bank. A dealership with an outstanding reputation is very jealous of that rating and they are actually cheapest in many cases ESPECIALLY when it comes to control systems, which are HIGH profit items. Integrity is becoming a rare commodity unfortunately.
The battery died on my '97 Explorer and after getting a jump, no interior button works. The windows do not work. The door locks do not work. The keypad no longer unlocks or locks the doors, though it does still arm and disarm the alarm. The same for the key fob, which will arm and disarm the alarm, but not lock and unlock the doors. My explorer is a 4 door with the 5.0 engine 2WD. I have already carefully inspected every single fuse, and none are blown. However, a blown fuse probably is unlikely since the systems involved do not all use the same fuse or relay.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
--Robert
It does run now, right?
Unfortunately, the window was rolled down when I jumped the car. And there was no way to roll it back up. I had to remove the door panel and supply power to the motor just to roll it up manually.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.