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Ford Explorer Electrical Problems



  • I recently purchased a 2002 Ford Explorer.
    So far.... OK
    However, I have had it less then 3 weeks and have had to change the fuse for the electric seats 3 times.
    Does anyone have any ideas of what I can do to prevent this??
    Thanks in advance!!
  • My 98 Ford Explorer with 57,000 miles was parked for a couple of months and the battery discharged, when trying to jump start it , it hits and run momentary, then it just grinds or cranks. Next time I try to start it, hits then dies.

    Since the battery was dead does the computor need be reset? Is there a security code for this?

    Or is it the fuel pump?

    Please Help....

  • The computer should be fine. I never heard of a computer needing to be reset after a dead battery. What I would do is install a brand new battery. You can jump start the old one all you want but if your battery won't hold a charge then it's worthless to keep. Also, when jumpstarting if you don't have a good ground the car won't start nor will it keep running if it does start.

    The grinding may be the starter. When you stop cranking the engine if the starter is still engaged to the flywheel then you will hear grinding noises.

    I would start with a new battery, make sure the starter works properly, then once the car is running put a meter on the new battery and make sure your getting 14VDC. If you don't get something close to 14 VDC then that tells you your alternator is bad.

    hope this helps
  • Hello -- I have a 2008 Explorer Eddie Bauer with Microsoft Sync. I have recently been having trouble with the steering wheel controls which operate the radio. The volume control will change the channel, the channel control will change the input source... It appears to be random. Some times the controls won't work at all. I performed both a limited and a full reset on Microsoft Sync without any help. Has anyone seen this issue before?
  • I've got a '96 Explorer 2dr..recently the radio/blower control in the rear of the center console started smoking and blew a fuse.. I replaced the control and the fuse and all the controls work, but now the right side cruise control light in the steering wheel, and all the cassette player lights are out, including the new rear contol lights in the part i replaced [only the dash radio face display is lit] anybody know if there's a reset, or what fuse might control this? or what might have gotten fried?? I'm doing process of elimination here in hopes of staying away from the bloodsucking dealer. I already tried a second control to see if that was luck...thanx jc
  • I have an 03 Eddie Bauer edition with the 4.6 L. While we were out today, the drivers side seat stopped working and the door locks and the foot pedal adjustment. Using the fob on the doors doesn't work either. The memory position also isn't working, so I had to drive home stretching for the pedals. I just bought this vehicle and have not owned one before, so don't know much about it. All of the fuses are good, but I was wondering if there is a relay that controls all of these functions. The owners manual is not a great deal of help in this matter.
  • I have a 2002 explorer. I've been having electrical problems with the headlights and looking for some answers. The headlights have been very eratic... When turning on the ignition the HL won't come on (even in Automatic position) Sometimes they turn on, sometime they don't. They will also go off and on while driving (must have fog lamps on at night just in case). Wondering if this is a problem with the switch or a internal electrical problem. Any suggestions are helpful. Thanks.
  • Working on an 08 Explorer XLT 29,000 miles doesn't want to start when you crank the key it will crank but not start. When you let go of the key it will continue to crank even though you stopped turning the key. After about 3 times of this then it starts no problem?
  • I have a 1995 Explorer, XLT. The brakelights don't work, except for the one overhead, on the rear door. Taillights work . Appears to be no power to the brakelite plug. Fuse is good.
  • Anybody out there know how I can override/deactivate the "autolamp" feature on my 1998 Ford Explorer? Though we've never used it, the switch on the mirror doesn't work. Is there a fuse we can pull? Where, exactly, is the sensor located that makes this thing automatic? Can we tape over it? Please help. Thanks!
  • As a electrician all the conditions that I am reading about seem to point to a grounded conductor or conductors in the harness. This would explain why the auto runs sometimes and other times not. Vibration may make this condition worse. Also check your connections for trailers or towing packages. If they become shorted or grounded out thaat just may cause the problem. I may inhereit a 98 explorer and it has that same issue. The person has installed a cutoff switch between the battery and the starter(harness). This seems to work but the problem is still there. When I find the problem I will post it. :confuse:
  • all my windows and sunroof randomly quit working at the same time anywhere from a couple of minuters to a couple of days then they work fine my door locks nor mirrors, i've changed out my control panel with the same results
  • wwisewwise Posts: 2
    I'm having same problem on my 02 explorer. DId you ever get the issue resolved on your explorer?

  • 02 exploder 1st 4x4 quit working then, 10 sec delay for radio, wipers ect after key goes on and now dvr power seat is blowing fuses any ideas thanks so very much
  • when i turn the key on the maxi fuse for the pcm relay blows causing the fuel pump to stop working so i am unable to start it. i have tried to find a short causing the fuse to blow and have had no luck any suggestions.
  • The time/temp/compass whatever its supposed to display in my '03 sport trac doesn't work. Neither does the left side dash lights that light up the gas gauge and tac etc. or the cruise control lights on the left hand side of the steering wheel. I got some information on how to replace the bulbs for the dash lights but how about the roof console? Are they related somehow?
  • After removing the overhead console, I've now located the following five (5) wires leading to the auto lamp mirror:

    1) White w/Pink stripe (Park Lamp Relay Control);
    2) Black w/Pink stripe (Reverse Input);
    3) Black (Ground);
    4) Light Green w/Yellow stripe (Power *Always Hot), and;
    5) Red w/White stripe (Ignition *Hot only at start).

    Which wire(s) should I cut in order to completely disable the auto lamp circuit WITHOUT affecting the operation of the manual dash switch circuit? One individual suggested that I cut the "thin black wire", and he probably means the ground wire, but I'd like some concurrence or additional expert advice on this. Thank you. Dan
  • Open driver door no dome light. If I open the passenger front door the dome light comes on? Is this fuse related or sensor, and I do not see the sensor on opening the door?
  • I have the same problem on my '97 Explorer. There is a sensor on mine that is part of the door lartch. Mine is broken. I am looking for the part... And how to replace it...
    There are instructions for a 2003 Explorer at but my sensor switch does not appear to be the same.
  • have a 2001 explorer and the fan will not run. I have changed the switch and checked the wires - all seem fine. Fan will go on occasionally and runs when it does but there is no particular process that makes this happen and it goes on rarely now.
    Any ideas thanks
  • after unsoldering wire harnesses for 2 days and tracing wires i found out that there was a short in the harness to the transmission and a bad wire inside the trans. new transmission good to go.
  • I have a 2006 Exporer, automatic ac/heat controls. Today when I started the truck the fan went on and blew on high, even though the car was still cold. Pushing the 'off' or the 'auto' button does nothing, the fan continues to blow cold air full force even though the temp setting is at 70. I tried raising and lowering the temp setpoint but that did nothing. Is there a sensor or switch or something that needs to be replaced / reset ?
  • I have a 2002 ford explorer and when I hit any bumps the door locks go off and on and the interior light flashes....I just replaced the transmission in this vehicle, I can not afford much else. Please help.
  • lreuterlreuter Posts: 1
    Okay, not possessed, but it's acting on its own... The dealer thought it might be a ground fault in the driver's door harness, then said they'd figure out exactly where for a bushel of money.

    We live with it, but has anybody seen some/all of these symptoms and offer a guess as to where to look for home repair?

    * Press any button on the door entry code panel and the anti-theft/panic goes off.
    * Driver door lock button works until you pull the key out then inop.
    * Rear window defrost activates dome light and 'door ajar' fault message for (and defrosts).
    * Radio plays until you remove key (used to play until door open).
    * Cabin heat temperature controls don't seem responsive.

    and maybe not related:

    Since our last visit to a different dealer the transmission doesn't always engage in Drive. After a hard stop it also won't engage, or drops into gear suddenly with a jack rabbit start. Sometimes sitting at a light it 'thumps' the car. I thought someone had lightly rear-ended me, but nobody was behind.
  • blowing the 50 amp fuse for the ignition switch/starter relay upon eevry turn of the key, i replaced the battery and the starter with new ones. i'm still blowing that same fuse! what else should i look at???
  • should i check out the wire harness for a short that may cause the 50 amp fuse to blow upon evry attempt to start? installed new starter ,battery and fuse.
  • leopold1leopold1 Posts: 4
    Yes Mike you will need to check out the harness, because you do have a short. More than likely you either have a bare wire touching the frame, or you have broken wires in the harness somewhere touching each other. This can be done either with an ohm meter, or the old fashioned, and sometimes the best way, of simply inspecting each wire for damage. Remember if you are using an ohm meter that you must isolate the system and wires you are checking, or you can get false readings.
    Best of luck
  • leopold1leopold1 Posts: 4
    Forgot something Mike. Sorry, but it is 0522 on a Sturday and my mind has not picked up speed yet. Make sure that you test any switches, or relays as you are going through the harness, because that may very well be where your problem lies.
  • budd00budd00 Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 ford explorer that the batt. get drained very easily. I have to boost it every time i drive it, I've bought new alt. battery ten. pulley (incase the belt wasnt turning the alt. pulley properly) If I put a new battery in it it'll run til' that battery is drained then its back to square 1. I could boost it right now drive for a few miles and after that it might start 2 more times after that, then its back to needing a boost. Whats draing my battery?

    PS. Everything else works fine. :confuse:
  • leopold1leopold1 Posts: 4
    mikehutch, you need to start at square one. Anytime you have an electrical problem, don't make it worse by randomly changing parts. All that does is confuse you and cost money. Start out by checking your battery with a load tester. Do not go to your local parts store and get them to do it. Remember, a good, knowledgeable mechanic does not work at the parts counter. Buy yourself a load tester and use it yourself. That will tell you if your batt. is any good and whether or not you are getting a charge from the alt. You must have at least 13.8 volts coming into your batt. to keep it charged and not more than 14.8 to 15 volts. DO NOT PULL THE POS. CABLE OFF WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING OR THE NEXT THING YOU WILL BE BUYING IS A COMPUTER! If your tester tells you that the batt. is good but the alt. is not putting out, check to make sure that you have batt. volts going to the alt. You must have that to excite the fields. If you do, then it is time to find out where your voltage is going to, or where it is dammed up,ie... a switch, relay,diode, or simply a bad or damaged wire. GOO LUCK!
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