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:mad:
Michelle
However, I am contacting Mazda directly to see how far I can get. Do you remember the Mazda reps name or contact info? Or did you just find a Mazda customer service number?
Thanks for your input!
Michelle
Thanks Musicar
Michelle
I'm trying again, sending a letter to another place.
Michelle
People are complaining on the Ody board that Honda isn't helping on their 7 year old Ody, with 109,000 miles, transmission replacement.
The van is not under factory warranty. It would be great if Mazda would go the extra mile and pay for a new transmission for your MPV, or at least pay part of the cost. They might get a customer for life that way. But they are under no obligation to do so. There is such a thing as an extended warranty for people who want warranty coverage after the standard warranty expires. It looks like on the MPV (and the Ody too), that could be a good investment.
I have a friend who owns an Ody. The tranny blew at about 97k miles. Honda said "sorry, fella." Fortunately though, he had bought a 100k powertrain warranty that covered it--and luckily for him, it blew up when it did and not a few months later!
I have a 2001 MPV that has 70k miles on it (mostly highway miles), and there has been no issue/problem with the automatic transmission, and partly because the owner's manual does not mention any scheduled change of ATF and partly of my negligence, I have not had any ATF change on the transmission from day 1.
I've done some research on the internet on having the ATF change, and there are a lot of theories out there on when to change and what type of change to perform (just fluid change, drop pan and filter, and what not), and some even suggest not to do any ATF change if no maintenance has been done to the transmission because new fluid will cause the tranny to fail, and should just leave the fluid alone (if this theory is true). I just want to ask you all for your opinion on what to do? I took out the dipstick and examine the fluid, it's still mostly red (if that is any kind of indication). And why does owner's manual not mention any scheduled maintenance to the ATF fluid (except to examine it twice a year, that's all I could find), should I just leave everything alone for the time being? I can't imagine leave the fluid in there and not change it at all, but don't want to risk a still working tranny. Thanks for any opinion/suggestion.
tl
http://www.trustmymechanic.com/transslip.html
I have a 2002 MPV with 50,000 miles. It still has 6 months left on the 7 year, 70,000 mile extended warranty that was purchased from the MAZDA dealer that sold the car to me.
The transmission started having problems. Erratic shifting, etc. I took it to the dealer, and they "pulled the codes" and it came back with a code indicating a fault with the Transmission Range Switch. It's a $350 repair. Now, the interesting part....
The Mazda extended warranty people refuse to pay for it! Mazda put out a service bulletin a few years ago saying that the Transmission Range Switch causes a lot of problems, and Mazda has redesigned it, and if a customer complains about transmission problems, it's probably this part. So....the extended warranty people from MAZDA adamantly REFUSE to pay for this repair because they say the original part didn't break - it was designed wrong to begin with, but it hasn't broken so they won't fix it! Sounds like crap, especially since the transmission used to work and now it doesn't. It presumably didn't spit out fault codes before, but does now.
I can't believe Mazda is doing this! What a screw job! Even the service advisor said he's never heard of them pulling this kind of crap! "The part didn't break, it was always like that (defective) so our extended warranty doesn't cover it."
Anybody got any ideas??
Also sounds like a thrid party warranty sold by your Mazda dealership??? If so, and they refuse to pay, I would ask the dealership to pony up and pay for the repair, as they benefit financially whenever they sell those crappy third party warranties.
Also, I'd ask to speak to the service manager. He's the guy with the power to do something about it. Then the general manager. If all else fails you can try small claims court. Good luck.
Stopped at a stop light the other day and when I went to accelerate, the first and second shifts did just fine. But, that was it. It wouldn't go into the next shift. I could drive just fine up to about 40/mph. Ironically, it drives better in the third gear, where I can drive up to 55/mph.
There are no warning lights on on the dashboard. The mechanic says the reading comes back with an "internal transmission failure".
I am considering taking it to the dealer to see if I can negotiate the repair cost since some previous work under warranty involved the transmission. Any suggestions from those of you that may have experienced this internal failure??
They fixed it for $2,000, but 2 weeks ago it died again. They repaired it under warranty, but yesterday it died a third time. They are now telling me that there is a problem with the axle that is causing the failure. I don't have a clue if the axle could cause the transmission to fail, or if I should pay the transmission shop more money to fix it. I don't want to go elsewhere because the repair is under warranty, and I would have to pay for another repair and for the tow. Next time they could tell me it failed because of something else.
Can anybody help?
Will never buy another Mazda again.
and got the van fixed for total $1500.00. Runs smooth and well so far. The only risk is the what the part guy claims - the tranny I got is supposed to be 120k-km. Well it is like replacing the entire block than opening and closing the block which possibly needs very well controlled environment for assembly and caliberation.
-Brian
You may want to visit MPVclub.com and try posting your question, they have a lot of knowledgeable people on that forum.
All the best,
Tom
1991, 323, MANUAL 5 speed, 4 cylinder. My brother bought it as a salvaged vehicle in the mid 90's. Gave it to me (free) in 2004. It is still rolling on at 19-1/2 years with 180,000 miles.
2002 MPV AUTOMATIC 5 speed, V-6. Paid $24,000 out the door. Dead transmission and being donated at 8 years with 108,000 miles.
Speaks for itself doesn't it.
Sadly this is a very clean, very well cared for MPV. A fine car with the exception of the #$&* transmission!!! I guess we are the fortunate ones. We actually made it to 108,000 miles before it died. (info below)
I'm the kind of guy who fixes all my stuff. I was going to attempt to fix this tranny issue too. But, it got rediculous when I couldn't even get to the connectors for the solenoids (hidden under wires and hoses that don't move or flex), much less get them apart. From there I just stared in anger at the rest to this vehicle. Vertually NOTHING is acessible.
So, what is the point. Great I fix the tranny. So what. Have any of you seen the radiator hose configuration on this van. Probably not. Vertually all the hoses are so burried you can't see where they end even with the battery out and a flashlight!!! This is not the typical upper/lower hose setup. There are multiple hoses and plastic splitters etc. that I'm sure they had difficulty getting on at the factory with the engine out.
My new mantra - NO more V-6's and NO more Automatic transmissions (we are migrating to a Civic, manual 5 speed).
Info:
I replaced the fluid twice at 40,000-ish and 90,000 miles. At about 35,000 miles I noticed it was getting brown. At 90,000 it looked fine, but I replaced it anyway. I removed a cooler hose and ran the fluid (engine running, in gear) into a marked bucket. I added as much as came out. A poorman's power flush. This helps to insure the fluid in the convertor, valve body etc. get exchanged fluid.
My wife was rearend at 107,000. A few hundred miles later the "push from behind feeling" from the transmission started. I don't tink the two are related. I drove the car 100+ miles and never felt it. Then all of a sudden it happened (and perpetuated) on the freeway and the O/D light started flashing.
I did a lot of searching. There is a piston that cracks and might be the cause. I've also heard solenoids and pressure control valves in the valve body.
This is a good article describing the problem and possible causes:
The Jatco JF506E, JA5A-EL or 09A transmission found in Land Rover Freelanders, Volkswagen Jettas and GTIs, Mazda MPV and Jaguar X-Type models was introduced in the 2002 model year and has been adopted by several manufacturers.
The widespread use of this transmission means that there are tons of them on the road and they are now making their way to transmission repair shops- at least the ones that were not replaced by the dealerships under warranty.
Some of the problems being seen with this particular unit include valve body wear in the torque converter clutch regulator and pressure regulator valve bore areas, which can result in a loss of torque converter clutch operation, transmission overheating, high or low line pressure and delayed engagements into forward or reverse.
Other causes of delayed engagement can be attributed to a worn low clutch drum bushing. A worn bushing will allow the drum to misalign and damage its Teflon sealing rings. This problem can also cause falling out of gear at a stop or a slipping upon acceleration from a stop.
One extremely common problem with The Jatco JF506E / 09A unit is a cracked reverse piston. A cracked piston can cause one or more of the following complaints: no reverse, a slipping reverse, a poor shift from second to third an elongated shift into fourth or fifth gear, and in some cases, no third, fourth, fifth or reverse.
Fortunately, while these transmissions certainly have some issues, there are corrections for this long list of complaints.
Firstly, there are oversized pressure regulator and torque converter clutch regulator valves available which enable a transmission rebuilder to machine and restore the valve body to "better than new" condition and prevent future transmission problems related to valve body wear. This operation requires some specialty equipment to perform. Many transmission repair shops don't have the capability to rebuild the valve body in house and are forced to buy a very expensive new or remanufactured unit and pass the price on to the customer.
Delayed engagement resulting from a worn low clutch drum is easily fixable by replacement of the drum or replacement of the worn bushing. Replacing the bushing, however, is a specialized "hone to fit" operation which should only be performed by a transmission repair facility that has the right equipment to properly complete this operation. This goes with the same caveat- if your transmission shop can't perform this operation in house, the cost of a new component is certainly going to raise the total cost of the transmission repair.
Lastly, the cracked reverse piston situation is going to require replacement of the failed part with a new one. The replacement component has been strengthened at the manufacturing level in the area where it would crack. The upgraded part seems to be a permanent fix for this particular complaint. Fortunately, the price of a new and upgraded reverse piston is fairly inexpensive; especially considering it should never fail again.
While you may have a vehicle with a transmission whose design may be less than perfect, don't fret- a successful repair is usually in the cards if you are able to find a repair facility with the expertise to correctly and thoroughly repair your transmission.
Author Resource:-
Joe Sirugo is co-owner of Trans Specialties and has been in the transmission repair industry for over 20 years
This site is limiting my post. I'll end with the fact that there are manuals, diagrams etc. available with a search.
I did my first trans flush around 27k. Fluid looked pinkish brown. Second flush was around 50k miles.
I thought 05 model came with the updated firmware.
It does have a "learning" transmission. See if this helps.
1) Do a transmission fluid flush.
2) Disconnect the battery for a few minutes to force it to "re-learn".
Let us know how it goes.
Considering the mileage on this car and the posts I have read thus far, it certainly sounds like there is an engineering opps from Mazda/Ford here.
I am now an un-happy Mazda owner. Nobody should see issues with a car under 50,000 miles.
>> Anyone have any insight to this issue or end all fix/resulting resolution?
:sick: or maybe a :lemon: only time will tell.