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How often do you check your trans. fluid? Have you had it flushed yet?
My 2004LX with 70k miles had trans fluid looking dirty at around 23k miles. Had it flushed then, and again around 50k miles. If not flushed may have been a contributing factor in current problem.
We were on a trip in the NC mountains in April and I had the cruise control set while on the highway. When we hit the first grade that required a downshift from OD the tach took off toward redline! We were able to complete the trip, but any time that downshift occurred it was nothing but slippage.
Had it checked by our local mechanic. No codes plus that slippage = shot trans. Estimate for installing rebuilt was ~ $3,500 (more than the vehicle is worth).
Another MPV bites the dust...
The rebuild price is a lot better than some others I've seen. What other repairs/issues have you had? If you can get a good warranty for the trans repair, may be worth taking a second look.
Also, I don't care to use the cruise control much, the thing has a heavy lead foot and will accelerate too hard. Probably not a good idea to use in the mountains.
I'm not a car guy nor do I have issues with ethanol. It may be a coincidence.
For what it's worth.
We have noticed engine vibration when our 2003 MPV (158k kms or ~ 100k miles) is idling at traffic lights or at the parking lot. Vibration would get stronger with longer idling time and the whole van will be shaking.
Took it to the local Canadian Tire store (we are from London, Ontario, Canada) and the techs could not read any codes from the van's computer. Either the van's computer is not working properly or the sensors are not sending out any fault codes.
They replaced the spark plugs and did the engine flush, but the vibration is still there and the tech can feel it while driving. Now they think that the pulley (where timing belt is) is cracked and is going to replace the pulley and the sensor behind the pulley. They are not sure whether this will solve the problem.
Because they cannot read the codes, they are guessing and changing parts they think causing the vibration problem. I did the engine tune up only last month and hence not sure what is the real cause of the vibration issue.
Could this be related to the transmission slowly fading away?
Any help you can provide will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks so much,
Sridhar.
Check your plugs, wires, and coils, and the PCV hose. While you're at it, check the MAF and IAC and inspect the air box tubing. Typically the rear bank of coils are more prone to act up, but all are fair game.
-Brian
Thanks again, Sridhar.
I probaby wouldn't be taking my MPV into a tire store for repairs. Doesn't sound like they know what they are doing.
It's back in the same shop that my wife had taken the van to replace the battery. I would have replaced the battery myself but I had to work and she needed the car before I got back from work. It seems strange to me that a battery replacement would be the cause of this transmission problem. Even if the computer needs to reset and adjust, it shouldn't be THAT hard of a shift. The hard shifts happen between 1st and 2nd (hardest shift), 2nd and 3rd, and 3rd and 4th (this one feels like a hard down shift followed immediately by a moderately hard up shift). I didn't check 4th to 5th as the first several were enough for me to take it immediately back to the shop.
My wife originally wanted to keep it at the shop since the transmission acted up the moment she went to drive it out of the shop parking lot but the technician said it was okay and that it would go back to normal after a short bit. Well, it didn't go back to normal in the 2 miles I drove it from my house, the gas station, and then back to the shop.
Is this the end of the transmission? Or did I not "wait" long enough for the "computer to reset/adjust"?
EDIT: The O/D Off light flashes continuously even after I try to turn it off. According to the manual, it's an electrical/transmission problem of some sort. The shop hasn't called back to tell me what codes turned up if any.
It is recommended to have the system flushed every 35k miles. As I have been told by the dealer and small repair shops, that it is better to do the maintenance or have it done for for 100-200 bucks than the $4000k for repairs. As most new transmissions will last so long as it is not clogged with material (metal, gunk from wear parts.)
I'm thankful I didn't have a big repair job here. Good luck guys. MPV is happy again
I disconnected the battery and will wait for about 30 minutes and reconnect to see if that helps. Otherwise, I guess a trip to the dealership will be next.
On Feb.9th, 2005 at 29,866 miles the check engine light illuminated and the engine would not idle properly (loud hissing noise). The transmission had already begun having the dreaded "shift shock". Took vehicle to dealer for the following recalls and warranty repairs: Fog light recall repair. PVC hose replacement. Radiator fan control module replacement. They stated that shift shock was related to PVC hose replacement. They paid for the rental car. Picked up the van on Feb. 10th. Washed , vacuumed and repaired under warranty. Cost $0.
On Dec.15th, 2006 at 53,678 miles the check engine light illuminated and the engine would not idle (loud hissing noise). Since the van was not under warranty the dealer wanted $497.00 for the replacement of the PVC hose. I declined, bought the hose from them (no aftermarket available) for $86.00 and changed the hose myself. Took me about 1/2 hour. Transmission still had shift shock but was able to minimize by awareness during shifts. I wanted to change the transmission oil. The owners manual doesn't recommend it.
On Nov. 12th, 2007 at 64,012 miles the check engine light illuminated and the engine wouldn't idle properly. It would skip or miss especially upon acceleration. I took the van to Advance Auto Parts and pulled the codes. It was the #3 ignition coil. Whats a diy'er to do? The MPVCLUB.com provided me with the most valuable information. I actually found a step by step bolt by bolt procedure with photos to replace the coil. Coil cost was $52.00 from advance. I replaced the spark plugs while the intake manifold was off. Plugs were $16.00.
On June 9th, 2009 at 85,099 miles I had to replace the PVC hose again. I learned from the mpvclub.com website that a new and improved PVC hose had been manufactured. I realized that the one replaced under warranty and the previous one the Mazda dealer had sold me were the original old style and that is why I'm having to replace it again. As per the mazdaclub.com website, instead of buying another hose from Mazda, some people buy the replacement from Ford since the MPV engine is made by Ford and utilized in some of their models. Its also less expensive from Ford. The website also has a step by step procedure for making your own for $5.00 out of automotive hose and a copper plumbing elbow. I chose that replacement and haven't had a problem since. I also had to replace the automotive fan control module again due to it malfunctioning. Again when the dealer replaced the original under warranty they replaced it with the old defective model. I made sure I purchased the new upgraded model from the dealer. Mpvclub.com shows photos of both (old and new) with stock numbers.
On Sept. 7th, 2010 at 97174 miles the transmission gave out. I lost the 4th, 5th, and reverse gears. I was able to get around at 25 mph in gears 1-3. Up until now shift shock had always been present. I didn't get the recommended reflash because according to what I've read on various MPV blogs and forums most people that had it done still had shift shock. I concluded it wasn't worth it. I had never changed the transmission oil because it isn't recommended by Mazda. Why? I've pondered that for a long time. This repair in out of my league. I got quotes from $1200.00 to $3500.00 for rebuild or remanufactured (there is a difference). I contemplated a used transmission from the junk yard. Then the dreaded thought of sending my beloved MPV to the scrap heap. This year MPV qualified under the Cash For Clunker program. I should have done it then. I decided on a $2000.00 local rebuild buy a reputable well established transmission shop that was well acquainted with this type transmission and its flaws. I learned it is a JATCO (Japanese automatic transmission company) JF506E transmission. Used in certain Jaguar, VW, Mazda, Ford, Landrover models and other manufacturers. Excessive valve body wear and cracked and/or broken reverse piston seem to be the major and very common problems. Jaguar actually had a recall on the transmission. According to the transmission shop, all the new rebuild kits come with upgraded parts. all part flaws have been addressed. My MPV is on the road again.
I use Mobile One Synthetic Oil every 10,000 miles with a Fram Supergard filter.
I changed the engine air filter and cabin filter at 30-60-90 miles. No other repairs or maintenance cost except 2 sets of front only brake pads and all tires. I know belts and hoses will be soon, as well as valve tappet adjustments and brake fluid / engine coolant replacement. Please feel free to respond to my post with your thoughts, comments and/or questions. Oh, by the way, did I mention I really like this van. I think I'll keep her around for a while.
I've had the trans. fluid flushed 2 times on my 2004 LX. It started to appear discolored at around 25k miles, brownish pink. I believe the dealership put lubegard red in as an additive, which helped with keeping trans fluid cooler, as the subsequent flush the color was a lot better. Looking to do another flush or drain and fill here in the next 6 months. Never had a problem with shift shock (knock on wood) which affected the 2002-2003 models.
$497 for the PCV hose install sounds crazy. They must have been charging you to take off the upper intake to put it in?
Sounds like you saved a ton of money by doing it yourself. I also had the #1, #2, and #3 coil replaced a few months ago, along with pcv hose (slightly collapsed) and
the plugs. The MPVclub write up was very good, but I decided to let the dealership do it. Luckily it turned out well, as the PCM needed replacement and it was done for free under the emissions warranty. Probably would have cost me around $1,000.
I've also had the IAC valve replaced and the fan control module. Did those myself.
I have had mild shift shock for thousands and thousands of miles. My van was made just after the last TSB for shift shock, so it already had the software update. In my case it is worse when cold and happens most often from 1st to 2nd. Hasn't really gotten worse but it can't be a good thing.
Once I started using Google to do some research and realized that this was a common problem, I contacted Mazda and was told "there is no known problem leading to premature failure". I have no doubt that lies like this are simply standard procedure to not admit any liability as part of their loss control strategy (or corporate greed department). I am curious to know what "premature" means to Mazda. However, it is misguided and does cost them customers, and this will be my 2nd and last Mazda vehicle. Cars are far too expensive to be disposable -- I have had lots of cars with over 220,000 miles on them without major failures.
I saw a lot of references to potential class action law suits and the use of lemon laws but suspect that it is all stacked in favor of large companies and lawyers, so that is little comfort to consumers.
Since I have a web site that does a lot of scam busting and consumer advocacy, I am writing up a web page on Mazda transmission problems as a) a warning to consumers and b) information on this particular transmission to help with getting it repaired properly or making an informed decision to dump the thing. If anyone wants to help with links to repair information, JATCO service manuals, ignorant letters from Mazda or anything else, please post comments at http://nlcpr.com/blog/?p=1461 . Thanks and good luck with your transmission.
I decided to go for the used transmission and the 1st one the Mazda dealer installed was also a failure, and the 2nd one was also a failure, and now 10 days later the dealer is calling it a nightmare and still trying to make it work ...
After reading all that's here, I'm feeling really afraid to put in a "new" (used) transmission, whether from a junk yard or remanufactured. It seems too many folks here did the same and experienced the same problem with their "new" transmissions all over again.
Unfortunately, this is our only car and we are broke. So it would seem that it'd be a better bet for us to try and replace the transmission, since the van has otherwise been great. If not, we're stuck buying some crappy beater car of way less quality. But then again, like I said, after what I read here and on other blogs/forums, I'm not so sure.
Any advice/help appreciated, as we are in a very serious financial bind and we need a working car. Thanks!
MPV coils do often fail but the bucking at idle symptom screams "PCV hose leak". Do a google search for
site:mpvclub.com PCV hose vacuum leak
to find lots of threads on this topic.
If you have prior experience working on MPVs to fix this problem, the hose is easy to replace. But it is difficult the first time because your have to do everything by feel. You cannot see the hose clamp or the right angle bend unless you remove the intake manifold. At mpvclub.com, you will also find instructions on how to make a robust homebrew replace hose for $10-20.
Are you sure this is transmission related, though? I only ask because my local mazda dealer said the stuttering I was getting under mild acceleration was transmission related. I doubted it, and I was right; it was the VERY common ignition coil problem, which can often not present with any check engine light and give inconsistent stuttering, generally under mild throttle at lowish speeds. Diagnosing can at times be tricky because as mentioned the CEL won't always fire.
If that were true your van would have begun stuttering the second you started to leave the dealership. Plug/coil problems would be immediately noticeable.
I'd take it to any dealership.
Lost a radiator at about 125,000 miles. Both radiator fans and the thermostat housing failed this year.
Have replaced two input actuator controls, which only get used at 3500+ RPM or some such, but DEQ will not pass with an engine check light.
The 2000 Mazda MPV with gear shift shows both neutral and drive selected, failure caused by water from the massive coolant loss a few months earlier getting into the drive select sensor in the driver side drive assembly. Save some money by getting a Ford part instead of a Mazda part.