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Comments
1. Gearshift cable misadjusted
2. Park Sprag sticking
3. Valve body malfunction
4. Rear servo malfunction
5. Direct clutch in Overdrive worn
6. Front clutch burnt
Take a close look at no. 1. Over the years I have observed my cable stretching so that the position changes and the indicator no longer lines up perfectly. Once in a while I think I have it in drive, but it's not and I have to move it further.
So I went to town on the accelerator as you suggested. Didn't do anything. Parked the car, came back a few hours later and it know works fine. Not sure if almost spraining my knee, from beating up the pedal worked. Keep you posted.
Do you pound on the pedal, when the car is on, off, in drive. Please advise.
Also the average gas mileage is only 11.5 mostly city driving. Any thoughts. Thinking its due to the problem with the transmission, but not sure.
Hooked up to the computer, says that the transmission is fine..maybe the solenoid or something associated with the computer.
I'd really appreciate someone diagnosing and letting me know what the fix is. Even violently worked over the pedal, due to a post that said its possible that the solenoid is dirty. Have approx 81k miles on the car..
This cycle went on for about a week - can not see any leakage. Now it won't go forward in any gear and the fluid is again very low. I can't figure out where it's going . Any ideas??
Dealer said not covered under warranty but possibly under extended warranty. One code is ATC sensor. So took it back to mechanic to fix under warranty but mechanic having problems getting parts. Warranty is talking about ATF parts but mechanic said there are no ATF parts because car is so new BUT THEN mechanic got national bulletin from Chrysler on how to fix the problem tried it but didn't work. Does anyone know what I'm talking about or what I should do? Planning to go back to service manager at Jeep Dealer.
OBD codes don't always directly identify what's causing the problem. Frequently it only reports the first symptoms.
If you don't pinpoint the problem, then you end up guessing at solution which is what happened to you. Guessing gets expensive if the guess does not work. You can continue to guess or pay the dealer. Another option is to make yourself be the temperature controller by turning knobs to raise or lower a/c. My guess is the dealer will charge at least $500 to fix this problem because of the time it will take to troubleshoot.
Don't be surprised if the dealer replaces the sensor you had installed because in many cases, to be compatible, a part has to do more than just look similar. Or the part you installed was an after market part with poor quality or possible doa when it was installed.
could be shift control solenoids are sticking as sounds as if trans fluid has never been changed
I would drop the pan and change the filter and oil my self
as stated would change trans fluid and filters if have wa42 trans has two filters should be in trans change kit from autozone or pepboys
I discovered that code P1762 flashed on the code reader. I took it to AAmco where they gave me their free analysis. Seems there is something awful under the hood. It might come out to $2000 to 2500+ to have it fixed. No promises. The need to tear it apart and see what's really wrong.
Before I left, the manager asked me what he can do to get my business today. Not sure how to answer that. Well for one thing you could _ _ _ _ .
I am reluctant about doing business there and I am ready to take it to a Jeep dealer where I am sure they will do all they can to make this into a case study of what not to do when you don't know what to do.
On my way back to HQ I stopped off at Jiffy Lube and asked if they would drain and flush the transmission. Yes they will do it but they won't drop the pan. They'll push all the old fluid out but can't promise to to get all the gunk out.
Any ideas, before I stop by my local dealer and hand him my Jeep and a blank check. Like what is the worst case scenario and how much would it cost?
I believe driving the car in this state is doing the transmission little good.
YiS, Jeff
just could be plugged pickup need to remove pan and change filters
I'll 'ask' them to do that and I'll post what happens.
Three hours later - he told me that there was a problem with the solenoid. Just as I was told by you fine fellows here on CarSpace. Total cost around 1100 - 1200 bucks and the car would be good as it was before all this happened. Not cheap, but a whole lot better than my AAMCO estimate.
But, we are not done. The mechanic noticed another problem. Oil was leaking from the rear axle (case?) and dripping onto the brake pad. Need to fix the drip, 'scrape' the pad and do some work on the rotor. Another 1200 - 1300 bucks.
I asked him if I could put the axle problem on hold until next week. Cash flow isn't what it used to be. Question: Am I taking some problem with safety? I am driving south and back this weekend - about three hours - 250 miles.
Won't have the car back until tomorrow.
BTW, I noticed that the dealer was especially slow this morning. Usually there is a line at the bay. I drove in - no wait.
PS: If you haven't realized yet. I know next to nothing about cars. I was thrown out of 8th grade when they taught a course in very general auto mechanics in my Jr. HS. Oh, and yes, I really appreciate the effort and time you all have given me.
I had the tranny guy reset the computer and bam, it stopped for 2 months. Now sporadically the same issue happens, but not as bad prior to the reset. I can't tell what it is. He said it was the solenoid, but I'm not so sure. I did add tranny fluid and that seemed to improve the situation.
The lube guy wants me to flush out the tranny, but I'm worried about doing that. It's like adding a software patch on your computer and then it gets worse. So I'm holding off.
Always reset the computer on these Jeeps as the dealer will always tell you to replace items, when the computer, dirty sensor etc could really be the problem.
A dentist always wants to fix your teeth, a dealer always wants perfection in how the car runs. So you have to be careful in spending your money these days on un-needed repairs.
only bad thing is have to ruin axel bearing to change bearing bout 70 bucks seal 25
lobor bout 1 hr if need pads on rear other 200 bucks
Picked up my 2001 JGC from the dealership yesterday and drove about 25 miles.
It handled nicely. I was told to drive somewhat cautiously (like a new car) for the next 500 miles i.e. and avoid sudden accelerations. I was also told that after some time I ought to check the oil level - it might be low, as it fills the nooks and crannies.
Total Cost: $1065.00 Parts: $502.00 Labor: $562.00
Here's the breakdown and some analysis: (to nearest/lowest dollar)
Remove and replace Transducer and Solenoid:
Parts: (1) Transduce $165.00 (1) Solenoid 186.00
Labor: $337
Total $690.00
Remove Transmission Pan; Cleaned and resealed, and replace filter
and transmission oil.
Parts: (1) Filter Package 85.00 (6) Fluid ATF 65.00
Labor: $224.00
Total: $375.00
My recollection of labor costs is $150.00 an hour.
OOOPS I just checked out the 'actual' cost of parts at MOPAR - Chrysler Parts
FILTR PKG TRANSMISSION $44.45 (MSRP) $0.00 (Core) Price: $29.32
SOLENOID TRANSMISSION $118.00 (MSRP) 0.00 (Core) Price 77.72
TRANSDUCE PRESSURE $78.75 (MSRP) 0.00 (Core) Price 51.98
(I had a hard time tracking down the Fluid cost)
Total from MOPAR: $159.02
I am leaving out the cost of shipping
Total from local Jeep Dealer: $437.57
Should I be surprised that there is a 275% markup of parts? In other words is it standard practice for dealerships to markup the prices of parts when used in repairs?
I look at this as Part One of a hard learning exercise.
Part Two:
Notes from my session at the dealer reports:
"The technician states left rear axle seal is leaking fluid Recommend to replace seal along with bearings. Parts and Labor $700.65 + Tax.
Recommendation to replace pads (fluid absorption) and resurface rotors.
Parts and Labor $470.00 + Tax"
That would be another $1170.00 'hit.'
Now, a month ago had my tires balanced and rotated at my regular mechanics shop. This was before the transmission debacle.
Wouldn't the mechanic have noticed something? My guess is 'maybe' and mark it up to sh_ _ happens. I would give the mechanic - a non-dealer, but a trusted practitioner - the benefit of the doubt here. He doesn't handle transmissions, but when I first reported the tranny problems to him, from the sound of his voice, I heard "be careful - out there".
Just to remind you, AAMCO said that it 'might' cost upwards of $2500. I guess that means it could also cost less .They wouldn't know until they ripped it apart. The advisor told me a rebuild tranny would take 5 - 7 business days and compared AAMCO service to the poor service I would get if I went to the dealer or dropped by a junk yard for an off the pile transmission. A salesman.
On that note, I told him I needed to get a second opinion, he said: "what can i do to get your business today? " I really had no answer to that, none - but I did have a strong sense that I was in the wrong place.
As I pulled out he offered to buy my car. He said the cost to him of the fix was lower than I would pay and that my car looked really good (flattery) Now that was the first really close-to-true statement he made. (But still flattery)
Remember the car has 81,000 +/- miles, it is garaged here in the Big Apple, and at least 40 - 50% of our driving is highway. We use the car to go camping often with the Boy Scouts and visiting family far from this maddening place.
My goal is to get 150,000 miles from this car. I know - it will take me another 8 or 9 years at current usage and newer cars would be far safer and more trouble free. someday, in a better economy, I might see the light and change my goals.
Thanks for opportunity to drop my story off here and pick your brains. So far you guys have been great.
Jeff in NYC
i do use mobile 1 oil and change at 6000 miles or so still dont use any oil between changes so you should get lots miles yet
thanks for posting update
tony
Is it possible for the oil leaking from the rear axle to pool under the car - say
overnight?
I told the advisor I would work on the car next week - if he felt there was little
chance of a problem on the road. I have a 250 mile trip to take tomorrow. He gave
no guarantees but gave me no reason to put off my trip.
Thanks for your help.
Jeff
your regular mech should be able to change wheel bearing and seal
i also dont think trip should cause problem just brake safe dont tailgate
how big of pool?
tony b
Jeff
My previous trans would always pull out in 2nd gear shifting regular thru the rest. Rarely did it pull out in 1st gear. Eventually the trans went while on the highway. Vehicle trans shifted all over the place.
I replaced my trans (keeping the old wiring) and found that it would not shift out of 1st gear. The kicker is that there is NO engine light on...... NOR did it produce any codes from my OBD2 scanner.
I proceeded to unplug the speed sensor wire, run the engine. I then received an engine light and a fault code. I then erased the code(s). I then proceeded to do (1 at a time) the same to the governor wire connector/ neutral safety switch/TCM relay and the other 2 fuses. All produced the same effect. Engine light on with a fault code. i then erased them.
Test drove the vehicle 6 blocks and it still didn't produce a fault or engine light.
Problem...... It still doesn't want to shift out of 1st gear.
Any help would be appreciated.
If you look at some of the previous posts, starting on page 22 where I was talking about my jeep, they have some good links that could help you. Good Luck!