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:mad: :confuse: :sick:
we have changed the water pump, thermostat, had radior flushed, pressure checked, thought we had a air pocket so we had it vacuumed then Dye in the system to check for a blown head gasket. Can someone please tell me what else could it be?? HELP!!!
This week I had the engine coolant flushed and filled, and wanted the shop to replace the thermostat. But shop told me a new thermostat for this vehicle costs $225 alone (not including labor), which I couldn't believe. While I haven't driven the vehicle on an uphill road that might increase the temp, I'm pretty sure the overheating problem is still there. Can anyone offer any suggestions why the vehicle has been recently heating on uphill drives? Could the cooling fan not be working (how to test for that?)? Also, how hard is it to change out the thermostat? I've changed out thermostats before on older vehicles (they usually cost about $25 or less in the past), and I figure that since I am using green antifreeze, I don't have to worry about any special procedures for opening a coolant system that contains Dex Cool. Can anyone point me to a place that sells thermostats for a more reasonable price (other than $225)?
want to sell, and I only want $25000.00 for it, of course it's used!
Thanks
Bob
History: In winter 2006, with about 45k miles, we noticed a coolant leak and took it in to the shop. They thought it was the intake manifold gasket and replaced it. Got the car back and it was still leaking. Took it back and they found it was the head gasket. They replaced the head gasket and pretty much compensated us for the intake manifold gasket, so we paid about $2100 total (which is their price just for head gasket).
Now, with 105k miles, we are noticing another coolant leak and it seems to be getting worse (along with an oil leak, which I can deal with). I looked underneath hoping it was coming from the radiator, but no such luck. Looks like it's coming from the engine area, which leads me to believe head gasket again. Any other possibilities? I guess I need to call the shop that did the work and see if it is covered? Any chance that GM has a recall or something like that for this vehicle right now?
I hate to spend another $2k plus, but we don't really want to spend money for another new or 1-2 yo vehicle right now.
Oil pressure switch is directly above the starter. Jacked the car from the passenger side and you can see a steady stream of oil coming off the connector into the pressure switch. Replaced the switch (costs about $7 at AutoZone) and leak went away. You'll also need a special socket to get this thing off, so pick that up if you don't have one.
about 105k it could be the water pump...
Thanks in advance,
Jon
So what is the real problem?
Oil pump?
Coolant pump?
Amount of coolant? Type of coolant?
The engine is getting too hot, but is it due to coolant or oil problems?
Amount or type of oil?
I've had hot coolant messages too often and I don't like adding oil if I'm not sure I need it.
Trouble is, that is the only decent mechanic around here. Well, halfway decent mechanic.
How bad a time bomb?
What will happen if it goes off?
Oil looks like oil, not milky at all.
Is there an oil pump anywhere? How do I know if its working?
Is there a coolant pump anywhere? How do I know if its working?
I wonder if the oil change people just added oil without draining the old oil out? Or they drained the old oil out but added too much new oil?
I can't afford to lose this engine or to have any major repair jobs.
One person contacted me directly and said that the stalling was probably a separate matter entirely. That may be, but its the oil/coolant/temperature situation that really scares me, not the occasional stalling at stop signs.
You mean not even drive it that seven miles to get there, but drain off three quarts first?
>Your oil pan isn't deformed (dented)?
Not that I know of.
> is the dip stick the proper length without any deformities?
Yes. Its the same type dipstick that was present on the former engine in that Chevy Venture 2000. I think it has five little holes in the dipstick to indicate the range that is proper. Also some cross hatching on the dipstick.
Oil must have been too high for a long time though, so I'm not sure if all this worry is proper. I did read that high oil levels cause the fast spinning crankshaft to whip up the oil into a froth that the oil pump can't pump. That sounds bad. Don't think I can afford to lose this engine or have any major problems with it.
Mechanic's conclusions:
The excess oil was probably the fault of too much oil being added at the last oil change. I should not have added even more oil. Overheating problem was coolant, not oil related.
The overheating and hot-coolant warnings were probably due to a faulty thermostat in the coolant system. He pressurized the coolant system and determined there was no warped head gasket or anything and it did not appear that there was coolant mixed in with the oil, it was just oil.
Total Bill: Staggering!! And far more than I can deal with.
He fingered the inside of the oil filler neck and he pressurized the coolant system. No leaks found. So he figured it was the thermostat which had malfunctioned.
He had been worried that the two Orange Hot Coolant warnings and the one RED Hot Coolant Warning might have warped the head casket, particularly if I shut the engine off prior to adding the coolant.
He seems to think I was lucky. I probably SHOULD have focused more on the coolant system when that was the warning since I never did get any low oil warnings. I guess I should have thought of the thermostat sticking but it just never did occur to me!
Dip stick reads high still but no where near the ridiculously high levels it did before. I think that place just puts in more oil than they should when they change the oil.
He fixed the doohickey that releases the hood catch so that is one annoyance out of the way.
He did say to "save my pennies" for a new radiator sometime.