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Comments
The kit had everything needed to do the job and keep it dual control!
Scott
Tom
the motor blower .The cable coneted to it come from the controler.swich on the ignition and the AC , and check the cable on the controller pressing from side to side .and if Iam not wronge you'll notice thate motr wil work in some positions.
to solve the problem the conectors from the plug to the blower motor controlers have to be put right.or buy another controller.(150 pounds on ebay) I used sold to fix my
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I have been through this and can tell you that you might have a blend door problem or if not, you will in the future on this model unless someone has already been into it. The obvious sign that you have a blend door problem is there is lots of outside air flowing into the car and you can't control it. This means poor heat in the winter and compromized AC in the summer. Usually you will still get pretty good heat on the driver's side but nothing but cold air on the pasenger side, then the problem "migrates" over to the driver's side and you have poor heat there too.
I would reccommend checking the "basics" first. Thermostat and heater core efficentcy. If the coolent level is correct and the engine temp is w/ in range (hafeway or very close on the gauge) check your heater core for flow. I had to disconnect both lines and "backflush" the core, you would be surprised at the junk that comes out of the core. I did this even after the blend door fix thing. If you determine that you do have a blend door issue, by all means check into heatertreater.net This is a great fix and completely "doable" by most folks who know which end of a screwdriver to hold.
Good luck
gwd601
btw i have a 2001 jeep grand cherokee but i'm sure it's prolly the same for a few years. 99-04 i think
Or any child, to possibly put there hands in the cutout section and get hurt by electrical wires and moving parts of the two actuator motors.
Plus you have to cut about 6” off the end of the glove box compartment and HTer leaves you hanging on how to repair the cut off end of the glove box.
How did you repair the cut off end of your glove box?
If you have any children I hope you will keep the glove box locked at all times!
What do you think the liability factor would be when you sell your vehicle with the end of the glove box cut off
with the electrical wires and two actuator motors exposed!!
HTer dual control kit has thirteen parts to put together along with cutting wires,
spicing them and Repairing you glove compartment box.
For future readers, please make an honest comparison.
There is a Safe - Worry Free – User Friendly – three piece "Blen Dor Dual Control" blend door repair kit.
Thank from Chaska61
you will see wires and a connector. tap with hammer this is the controls box also jiggle wires that go into the white plastic connector.
I have had the same problem and fixed it bye rewiring the white connector
Also, something that just started happening is when you turn the vehicle off you hear what sounds like a vent door opening and closing coming from the passenger side under the dash.
Before you do anything else!
The first thing you should do is use the AZC fault code system.
To read the fault codes:
1. Turn on the ignition switch.
2. Turn on the AZC system. The temperature settings should be displayed for both sides.
3. Simultaneously hold down the AC and the Re-Circ buttons.
4. Then turn the driver’s side temperature (Left) control knob to the right (CW) one click.
5. Then release the AC and Re-Circ buttons.
If there are no fault codes, the “00” display value will remain in the window.
If there are any codes, each will be displayed for one second in ascending numerical sequence (note: no effort is made to display faults in the order they occurred). The left side set temperature display will be blanked and the right side set temperature display will indicate current and historical codes (8 historical max) presently active.
Once all codes have been displayed, the system will repeat the fault code numbers. This will continue until the left side set temperature control is moved at least one detent position in either direction, by pressing both the A/C and Recirc buttons at the same time, or the ignition is turned off.
Also describe any symptoms you are having with your heating system.
Like - Are you getting a good air flow thru your vent outlets?
Can you direct the air flow to the different outlet vents?
Post your fault codes and symptoms or send a message to Blen Dor.
But I am confused with the description “Cold and warm air coming out of the vents at the same time”.
Would that be cold air coming out of the vents on one side of the vehicle and warm air coming out of the vents on the other side of the vehicle?
The sound of the doors opening and or closing is most likely the actuator motor putting tension onto the blend doors during the calibration process.
Briefly, the calibration process happens every 20 ignition cycles, it is the computer finding the location of the two openings, which will let the computer know where to position the blend doors according to the temperature that was set on the display.
Does the heating system work good, between the once every few months cold and warm air problem?
This happens when the heater is on, not when the air is on. When it happens all you have to do is turn the ignition off and restart the jeep and the problem corrects itself everythime.
Also, when the door opens and closes it continues to happen after you shut the ignition off for awhile.
The door noise continuing after the ignition is turned off is a normal condition. As there is still current flowing after the ignition is turned off, the computer and other items like the clock, etc. are not controlled by the ignition switch.
The only elements in the GC HVAC system that differentiates between driver's and passenger side are the blend doors and a difference between passenger and driver's is usually an indication of blend door failure. Reading the HVAC codes will give you a definitive diagnosis.
The intermittent operation is most likely a symptom of the system in the midst of failing. The doors are not totally broken...yet, but they will get there over time. Sorry for the bad news, but this is a flaw in the system design and replacing the doors is the only option.
HeaterTreater
The sounds coming from the dashboard are most likely from the blend door shaft that has partially broken and is now making noises during the calibration process and or just the broken blend door moving during the temperature adjusting process.
It sounds like the blend door problem is getting worse and possibly the other blend door will be breaking in the near future.
Let me know what happens with cold air from one side and the heat for the other.
It sounds like a blend door problem, but if you need more help,
Search for the Blen Dor
I believe you indicated this would involve removning the dash. I have done some extensive repairs to my sons BMW in the past with instructions he got off the internet.
I am pretty mechanically inclined and have the time to do it as long as I have the step by step process.
A few of the vendors have come to CarSpace simply to tout their product, which is against our membership rules. You can find them easily enough with a net search if you decide to go that route.
I've been reading this forum a while, but I have not seen a post describing a similar problem. Has anyone else experienced this, and what is the difficulty and $ of replacing this control?
You can fully open the glove box and examine the actuator motor to the left of the glove box opening. When you turn the temp knob, the motor should move. The system is under computer control and will shut that motor down when it detects a system fault, so failure of the motor to turn does not necessarily mean a bad motor.
The motor can be removed by removing two philips screws and pulling the motor straight back. Examine the motor connection and blend door axle to see if there is damage. The white axle going into the plenum box has a limit pin extending radially from the axle that is constrained between two stop points molded into the plenum box. Check that the limit pin is not broken and that you can turn the blend door axle easily with your fingers. You should be able to manually switch between heat and no heat with your fingers. You can check the motor with a 9V battery and a snap connector. Just touch the wires to the two terminals and the motor should turn, and reverse when you switch the wires.
From your description, I'd be concerned with checking the knob closely. If the connection is cracked, you should feel a "bump" in the knob when you turn it. This would be a sign of a cracked connector that is not engaging the switch. You should also be able to feel an end point to movement. If the knob spins 360 degrees, the connection is broken. If nothing else, remove the knob and use a pair of pliers... Just kidding, a broken knob should be easy to fix with epoxy and a couple of loops of wire around the knob connection.
HeaterTreater
The 99/04 Jeep GC Limited has a fault code system you can read. The fault code system is an excellent place to start the diagnosing process.
Since you have the Automatic Zone Control system (AZC)
The first thing you should do is check the AZC fault codes.
To read the fault codes:
1. Turn on the ignition switch.
2. Turn on the AZC system. The temperature settings should be displayed for both sides.
3. Simultaneously hold down the AC and the Re-Circ buttons.
4. Then turn the driver’s side temperature (Left) control knob to the right (CW) one click.
5. Then release the AC and Re-Circ buttons.
If there are no fault codes, the “00” display value will remain in the window.
If there are any codes, each will be displayed for one second in ascending numerical sequence. Once all codes have been displayed, the system will repeat the fault code numbers. This will continue until stop the process by moving the left side set temperature control one click in either direction, by pressing both the A/C and Recirc buttons at the same time, or the ignition is turned off.
Record all of the fault codes and also describe any symptoms you are having with your heating system.
Like - Are you getting a good air flow thru your vent outlets?
Can you direct the air flow to the different outlet vents?
Post your fault codes and symptoms.
I’ll interpret them for you and advise you on how you could repair your heating system.
Blen Dor
Virtually every GC in your year range is going to throw a 52 code for re-circ door travel too large. The re-circ door is larger and stronger than the blend doors and will "bend" before it breaks. The computer system will detect that the movement is out of spec, but this doesn't necessarily indicate that it is broken. It WILL break over time once you see the 52 code, but it can go another year or so with perfectly normal operation even with the code. The physical examination tests that I posted in the previous answer will tell you definitively what's going on with the re-circ door. The code will only alert you that the door is in the process of breaking and could possibly be broken already. I'd suggest that you just skip the re-circ door code and go straight to physical examination. Guys trying to sell you something based on just reading codes are either uniformed or scamsters.
HeaterTreater
The alternative to the dealer recommended process is an aftermarket solution that cuts into the box with a dremel tool and replaces the door with metal at a fraction of the dealer cost. The solution has been successfully deployed on thousands of GC's and is a proven reliable repair. A video of the process is available on youtube and you can search Grand Cherokee blend door to find it. Certainly the aftermarket fix could be installed by a "mom and pop" garage, but most likely you will need to find and order the components and specifically push the shop to execute the fix you choose. There is always a little reluctance to do anything that is not a standard Chrysler repair process. Note that the process is relatively simple and you might well decide to do it yourself.
HeaterTreater
HeaterTreater
That has given you an excellent place to start
Your description in post #316 of the air flow only comes out of the vents when driving and nothing when stopped. That sounds like you could also have a blower problem.
Can you hear the blower working?
Can you hear the blower working and no air is coming out of the vents. (When the vehicle is NOT moving) If this is happening – that is a symptom of the broken recirculation door - not a blower motor problem.
In your previous post #323 your fault codes were 52, 54, 56.
The #52 is a recirculation door problem. The 54 is the driver’s side blend door problem and the #56 is the passenger’s side blend door problem.
As you probably already know, replacing the blend doors requires the HVAC box to be removed from the vehicle and taken apart. Most of the labor cost is in process of removing and replacing the HVAC box.
So about the only thing you could tell the mechanic is that you have read the fault codes and replacing anything more then the recirculation door and the blend doors will require you to visually check the part before giving approval.
Good Luck
Mikes_fixit
HeaterTreater
Blen Dor