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BMW 328i/328xi
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I prefer knowing what's going on in the engine room. You'd think that with on-board computers, it would be a cinch to see operating metrics at a glance!?
Regards,
OW
Regards,
OW
Good to hear stories like yours. Keep us posted on your new ride.
My first BMW had All-Season rubber, and it served me fairly well for the four winters that I had it. Not GREAT mind you, but I was able to get from point A to point B, with only a certain amount of white knuckling the steering wheel. My second BMW came with Summer rubber, and with only a quarter of an inch of snow on my drive way I was unable to make it up to the street. That thing was downright scary to drive with even so much as a dusting on the streets. That said, I ordered a set of winter tires for it and was astounded at the difference those tires made in the car. It went from the worst winter driver I've ever had (and I've driven through thirty some winters) to the very best. If I had to rate the tires on a scale of one to ten for winter capabilities (ten being the best), I'd put the Summer rubber at a 1 (maybe not even that high), the All-Season rubber at a 4 and the Winter rubber at a 10.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I have a FWD TL 6-speed with summer tires and it performs far worse in 2-3 inches of snow than a RWD 5-series would with all seasons. The summer tires get hard as nails in sub 30 degree temperatures and the traction sucks.
We were up in my hometown in Erie over Easter and got snow every day. Fortunately we drove our MDX. But I took out my 1995 Nissan Maxima from our second home and was shocked at how much better it handled in the snow than my TL would have. Absolutely no unintended excitement. All because it has 15" 215/60 all seasons (with 40,000 miles on them, no less) instead of 17" 245/45 summer tires. My knuckles would still be white if we had driven the TL.
my lease on a 325i is coming to an end on may 26. Needless to say, the dealer I leased from has been calling me for the last 2 month, but although he says he will get me into another BMW, he doesn't seem to come up with numbers I can afford. I have done the math, looked at residuals posted here, took 5 % off MSRP, tried as low as .0014 money factor, and I don't see how I can get to a comfortable number either. So, question: is there any possible way, to get into a base 328i, for a 36 month lease, with 10k miles/Year, with putting down $2000, including tax, bank fee, first month (don't need security, since I am returning a BMW) and paying under/up to $400.00 a month. I am sure, something out of the normal upfront fees has to be rolled over into the monthly.
The only dealer that is willing to apparently work with me, is about 90 min away from where I live, and I have been begging him, not to make me come out there, if he can't get to what I can afford, but he won't obviously commit to any numbers until I am there. Again, he asked me to come in next Saturday, saying he will give me a deal that I "will be completly satisfied with", I just don't see how he could. What do you think? Is he just trying to get me out there and sell me a car I can't afford, or is there a way to getting to what I am able to pay?
Sorry for the long assey. This buying another car thing is about to drive me crazy...
Thanks,
Hugo
About all you can do to get your monthly down is throw more money at the lease up front, but that's a pretty bad idea.
Here's the current lease specials on the 328 sedan: Please note that with the up front monies your monthly really isn't $353 a month...it's more like $443...and if you go over 10,000 miles a year, then you add that to the lease monthly as well.
You can also possibly negotiate 12,000 mile and 15000 mile leases through BMW leasing.
$353 Monthly Payment
36 Month Term
$2500 Down Payment
$400 Security Deposit
10000 Annual Mileage
Restrictions Lease is based on a 2007 BMW 328i Sedan with optional Metallic Paint and Sport Package.
Comments $3253 due at signing. Dealer participation may vary. Incentives and Rebates are provided subject to the terms of our Visitor Agreement.
MrShiftright
Visiting Host
It is certainly possible. Check out this BMW 328i lease offer. Also, hop over to the BMW 3-Series: Prices Paid & Buying Experience forum to do some home work, and then make an offer to the dealer. You should not walk into the dealership until you work out the price.
Base '07 328i
$33175 MSRP
$32000 Selling price
.0014 MF
64% Residual (3yr/30K)
Monthly payment = $374/mo.+tax
Due at signing = 1st pymt, title/license fees, $625 acq.fee ($1300 total?), still have $700 of your $2K in the bank.
If your tax rate is 7% or less, your payment is under $400.
--------------------------------------------
You want options? Add auto, premium pkg and metallic paint..
$38175 MSRP
$36500 Selling price
$700 CAP cost reduction (using up your $2K)
$35800 CAP cost
.0014 MF
64% Residual
Monthly payment = $400/mo.+tax (about $428/mo. w/7% tax)
Due at signing = 1st pymt, acq.fee, title/license, cap cost reduction ($2000 total?).
So.. it can be done..
regards,
kyfdx
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I actually got a better deal from the dealer, which was $399/month w/ $2346.83 total out of pocket (incl tax and fees). $399 was my absolute max of what I can swing. I am paying $371.83 at the moment for the 325i, and it's calculated into the monthly overhead, going up means stretching it. My wife wants to keep it the same or lower...
Basically, I need to bring this deal down by $600 or so, to be where I wanna be. Can you roll over the bank fee into the payment? Need the out of pocket to come down by at least $350
I am also looking at other cars, and for those I wasn't able to get the residual value and money factor over the internet. The dealer told me over the phone, that there is no way he would give this information to me. He would rather give me the invoice price. After all, then I could just work out my own deal...duh.
Am I entitled to know these figures? Do I have to go in to get them, if at all, or can I request them over the phone, so I am prepared before I go in?
Hugo
Here are the rates for the month of May:
2007 BMW 328i Sedan
24 Month – Residual 71% of MSRP – .00140 Base Rate
36 Month – Residual 61% of MSRP – .00140 Base Rate
2007 BMW 328Ci Coupe
24 Month – Residual 68% of MSRP – .00140 Base Rate
36 Month – Residual 58% of MSRP – .00140 Base Rate
The residuals above are for 15K miles/year. Add 2% to Residual for 12k mi/yr and 3% for 10k mi/yr on all terms
One more question: I live in New York, our tax is 8.25, and normally required upfront. You could opt to roll it into the payments, but I was told, that then you actually pay taxes on your taxes?
Anyways; am I paying taxes on the whole price of the car, or on the 36 month value of the car?
If you have time, could you give me the info on the X3 as well. My dealer said that because the residual is so high, he might be able to get me into that for almost the same?
Sounds strange to me, but if it works, I'd take..more space for the kids
Thanks again,
Hugo
Have another question; she quoted me a $625 bank fee. I am sure this really varies, but is there a ball park figure, so I get an idea if this is for real?
This website might help you a lot:
http://www.leaseguide.com/lease07.htm
Come on over to BMW 3-Series: Prices Paid & Buying Experience.
Bring the MSRP and the lease term you are interested in, and we'll work up a deal for you...
regards,
kyfdx
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Edmunds Moderator
$32,470 sales price - $34,150 msrp
-21856 resid.
=10614 - 8.25 sales tax in New York =
875.65 tax
am I right? If so, how does my dealer quote me $1255.36 sales tax??
One more question: what should my bank fee be? She quoted $625
Hugo
1) 328i -- Comes with standard All-Season tires.
2) 328i SP -- Comes with staggered Summer Performance tires.
3) 328xi -- Comes with standard All-Season tires.
3) 328xi SP -- Comes with standard All-Season tires.
2) 328xi SP & 17" Double Spoke Alloy Wheels -- Comes with staggered Summer Performance tires.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I am wondering if anyone here who owns a 3-series and a rear seat cover would be willing to share their experiences. What brand did you get? How durable is the cover? How well does it stay in place?
Thanks, in advance, for your feedback!
As for break-in, you'll get varying answers and fairly conservative advice from your owner's manual, but with a BMW I'd say just drive it normally for 1000 miles and stay out of the red line on the tachometer.
But I'm a big fan of some full-throttle acceleration during break in , but only in the "mid-range" of the tachometer, say 4,000---4,500 max. I also like to rev the engine up to the 4,000 range and then let it "suck down" to 2,000 or so, if traffic permits. That way you place stress on both sides of the pistons.
But really, just let the engine warm up a bit on start-up and don't drive like a maniac and you should be fine. After 1000 miles, let 'er rip.
BMW engines are designed to rev and they can take it.
Best Regards,
Shipo
1. If I order a 2007 328xi coupe now will it be a 2007, and, how long before I get it?
2. If it will be an 08, even though I ordered an 07, when will I get it and will it look or be different in any way?
Several dealers in NY told me this and do not have the answers to these questions. Any definitive anwers would be helpful. Thanks.
Best Regards,
Shipo
You see, the dealer told me it might be an 07 if they can get one, but if not, then it will be an 08. But when i asked him if I could see a picture of the 08, or a color chart, he had no info at all. So I thought it was odd to order a car sight unseen.
In addition, he couldn't tell me when it might arrive. Again, I thought it was odd to order a car sight unseen and with no clear date of arrival.
Hence my question: what do the 08's look like and how are they different, and when will they arrive? There was no clear answer to this in August so I was wondering if now, in late September, there is an answer.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I've recently started lusting after 328 sport wagons, but not sure when/if I'd ever make a move away from my Volvo V70. The primary motivation is getting a manual, for the more sporty driving experience (and BMW vs Volvo provides some of that, shifting or not!) and that a manual out-of-warranty is not as scary as an automatic out-of-warranty.
So my biggest question is this... how much of a consideration should 328xi vs. 328i become? I know if I stay away from the xi's that will really limit my choices, but how noticeable is the 250-lb weight penalty of the xi? And are there significant differences in reliability/repair costs down the road with an xi (I know there's not much to speak to that from this generation, but maybe the older 325's will shed some light?)
I live in snowy (some years very snowy) New Hampshire and I wouldn't own one of the "xi" models. I've found it much more enjoyable (from a drivability perspective) to simply buy a second set of wheels with winter tires than to be saddled with the AWD running gear year round.