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Seal the Front Windshield!!!!!
Good Luck Everyone,
Yes, but can you offer solutions?
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Problem 1 - Rear Air would not exchange to the upper head
Resolve - Replaced the Cog set in the actuator, little White box inside rear passenger fender well accessed by removing utility holder and cup holder from back plastic area, you have to have really small hands, I had the cogs if you have to buy the unit you are looking at around 50 with tax
Problem 2 - Radio would go out and at same time windows would not work
Resolve - Remove the instrument cluster panel remove disassemble to get to the aluminum looking feeler clips that provide electrical contact for your gauges, once removed just pinch them together to ensure they will give a tight fit when the boards are pressed back together. The problem occurs when one gets a little loose or does not have a good contact as the primary voltage flows through this board left to Right that feeds the radio and the windows
Problem 3 - rear popping in the passenger side
Resolve like problem 1 it is the same there are two actuators in the rear panel, one exchanges the heat and cold and the upper is for the lower and upper air , 99% of the time the cogs are chewed up and you will need a new actuator $50 for part, if you do it yourself
Just to note, I have not experienced any of the water issues in the 2003 or has any of my friends the ones reported are all 2002 and older. Sorry for any confusion in any of my previous post, the above are the resolve to my problems I had.
I do have two other problems if anyone has the answers as I haven't trouble shot
1. pedal forward reverse control seems to not work all the way now
2. grinding and not full engagement of AWD when selected
I hope this info helps someone God Bless Ron
Thanks
The Expy drives good but there seems to be a bunch of gremlins in it. Everything going on is mentioned in this forum but few if any have any solutions so here goes..anyone have any help on the following?
1) Windshield wipers do not work. Husband hotwired to the motors and they work, have checked fuses and wondering if the problem is in the multi function switch. Both rear and front do not work BUT the sprayers work.
2) When I turn it off the fan motor for the a/c comes on full blast. It will not turn off unless I click the dome lights on and off... really!
4) The odometer comes on and goes off. Hubby is going to try the soldiering sometime this week but I'm wondering if with the multiple of problems they could be related to one another.
5) Gas guage sometimes works and sometimes does not. It does not come on and off with the odometer. It has a mind of its own.
For $600 on the Expy and $200 on the transmission I'm more than happy with it so far. Given my hub and son's aptitude for fixing things themselves I'd rather try some things on our own before going to a shop. We already replaced all of the fuses! Any other ideas?
Thanks ahead of time.
Laurel :confuse:
Yesterday the check engine light came on and idle went to crap.
Ran OBD11 tests and have #4 MissFire.
Cleaned Coil Ignitors and check wires.
Can the MissFire be related to Alternator?
If not, what is the probable cause?
I will be troubleshooting tomorrow. In my research I did find an interesting fact. To rule out the coil ignitor, I can swap the positions. If the miss-fire swaps then it indicated the coil ignitor.
Thanks!
1997-2002 Water In Gem
2003-2006 Running Board, Door Actuators, AC Actuators, Instrument Panel Issues
2007-2009 Fuel system and latches
All previous built in Michigan
NHTSA Item Number: 637462
Service Bulletin #: 15770
Replacement #:
Vehicle/Equipment Make: FORD
Vehicle/Eqipment Model: EXPEDITION
Model Year: n/a
Mfg Component Code: 110000 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Date of Bulletin: 2002-04-01
Date Added: 2002-11-26
Summary: SOME 1997 THROUGH 2002 VEHICLES MAY EXHIBIT VARIOUS UNUSUAL ELECTRICAL CONDITIONS, SUCH AS FRONT OR REAR BLOWER OR EATC STAYING ON WITH KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION, RADIO STAYING ON AFTER DOORS OPENED AND KEY OUT OF IGNITION, WIPER CIRCUIT FAIL
NHTSA Item Number: 50483
Service Bulletin #: BC5207961001
Replacement #:
Vehicle/Equipment Make: FORD
Vehicle/Eqipment Model: EXPEDITION
Model Year: n/a
Mfg Component Code: 110000 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Date of Bulletin: 1996-10-01
Date Added: 1997-04-24
Summary: INFORMATION FOR SERVICING THE ELECTRONIC/HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT (EHCU) ON 4WABS. *TT
goto http://www.allworldauto.com/recalls/ford_expedition_recalls_12-2044-1.html
to look up all recalls and Bulletins, many ford dealerships or sites will tell you none but as you can see there are several
Well I know its electrical. Not all he time but some days when I get home and turn off my care, a couple of hours later get back in and my gauges are all up and the care wont start. Take the key out gauges still up close the door couple of hours later batterie is dead. Crazy I know! Now the funny thing is, I notice that it only happens in the "winter" and kinda when I use my windshield wipers....so thats what im here about, if anyone can help or has had the same issue.
thanks
I also have an 01. My expedition would stay running when the keys were'nt in it.Lights blinking off and on. horn was blowing,lol. :mad: It got to the point of funny!!!! My sunroof was stuck on stupid.
My mechanic told me his wifes' did the same thing. He told me to seal the windshield. Went down to Napa, and bought a tube of windshield gasket sealant. Applied around the corners,WALA, it never happened again. I can even use the drivethru carwash again!!!YEA!!!!! Good Luck!!! Ford wont help. This should.
Here is my ? I didn't check headlights before but both Headlights on passenger side are way dimmer than drivers side and when i turn them to brights the passenger side that should go bright goes dark? I thought it was bulbs so I put 2 new bulbs in a 9005 and a 9006 and it is still the same?
the flasher was out and olso the fuse box, some how there was a short in the fuse box
i replace this two things and it is working ok now.
Thank you any ways.
This is just like keeping spare fuses and coils there also...because Ford Expeditions eat them all, like a fat guy on popcorn at the movie house. I bet I have put $1000 in coils into my Expedition in 5-years worth of time...not to mention the Bosch super platinum plugs, at $6 each.
My Expedition (2001 with 4.6L) just got $80 in gas at the store...I am one mile down the road, and the speedometer and tachometer, simultaneously go to full peg, twice. Engine did not stutter or miss a beat, nor did the RPMs go up. Then, it died. period. Almost as if a TPS failed...except after cooling down, the truck still won't hit. Fast turn over, 13.2 volts on battery, full premium fuel (which was already over a quarter full before fill-up). Good gas...clean filter on truck. Oh, yeah, and the "THEFT" dash icon is flashing fast. So...after $240 for the tow-bill home, I get the wife to try her key (thinking it is the chip dead in my key) and nope...no luck...still won't start.
Any ideas of what else could have failed on this POS? I am now in the market for a late 1970's 4x4 truck...one that a pet chimp can troubleshoot...I have had it with this BS...where it takes a 1000 person committee to analyze why my vehicle turned off...or $1000 for a dealer to provide me with a $50 part. Thanks Ford...I am DONE.
Ideas to help me get this junk rolling again (for purpose of sale) are greatly appreciated.
Right now...I don't need coils...I need to figure out how to reset this damn PATS so that "theft" quits flashing, and I can start the junker.
The THEFT light is flashing a "61" code (thats a new one to me) and the PATS reset process (15 min key-on, then off, and repeat 3-times) didn't work...going to power-down next. Seems that no-one has encountered this failure while driving down the road...to where neither key works, and the reset didn't either...guess I'll tear the column cover down and see if there is something with the transponder...
Damn, I hate this truck for the technical issues. I hope Ford was in bed good with the insurance market...because I will never buy another Ford as long as I live, because of this PATS issue...there is no reason to make such fragile technical issues into vehicles, and then shaft your customer with $1000 service calls once a year. I'll just buy an old 1970's vehicle and dump money into it...at least it will run then...squeaks and all.
Anyone have any idea how complex it is to pull the PCM out of the dash? I am thinking that a blow dryer on it to dry it out, and it will be fine...it is snowy and humid outside, and this all started on a bad snowstorm day...so, I am thinking that some in this post are kinda on the right track...that the PCM has been dampened by humidity or rain...and is acting squirreley...I just don't have the $1000 to play with the dealer on this truck right now!!!
Thanks.
Please don't post telephone numbers in the Forums.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Funny...it had been snowing here for 3-days, right at 32-deg., 'snow-snot' all in the floorboard, snow fog all over, nasty weather...probably had 3-inches of snow up against the windshield by the air intake screen around the wipers...flat broke for the time, I pulled the battery and the PCM plug...hmmm...moisture. Ok...I pulled the PCM...and the inside of the cover seemed to be moist/damp. So, little low-temp blow-dryer, lot of WD-40 on the plug and the recepticle at the PCM...put it all back together, fire it right up...wham...no problem...then, 10-minutes later, it died. So, with no hesitation, I went to the store and bought 2-bottles of ISO-Heat (Isopropyl dryer for fuel) and put them in the tank...started it up...AGAIN...and kept foot to the pedal at 2,000-RPM for 10-minutes (it wouldn't die then)...and you could feel the engine begin to smooth out some...and it has worked perfectly since.
By the way...the odometer on mine intermittently goes off and on while going down the road...DUE TO THE WIRE-SHORT in the instrument cluster that I am going to solder when weather warms up, now...should fix it all.
FYI...THIS SHOULD BE THE FIRST DIAGNOSTIC DONE ON THIS SPECIFIC ISSUE...I hunted the internet for 3-days, saw a thousand posts IDENTICAL TO MINE, and no one ever printed a resolution...though it seems LOTS OF PCMs got sold as an attempted fix.
Guys, I am telling you...try this first...this worked better than dropping a locker into a 9-inch rear, to get better traction!!!
Got it home, dried it out, again...drove great about 3-days later...put maybe 500-miles on it...ran great...not one miss. Went out this morning, raining like a dog...started it. It ran for MAYBE 10-seconds, and DIED. Won't start, PATS is flashing again...and I am sure that when the rain stops, and all is dry, it will run PERFECT AGAIN.
HELP SOMEONE!!! What is getting wet, or humid, that even sitting still in the driveway, just starting it causes this?!?!?!
Our windshield tech told us that the "groove" on the top of the truck (where the luggage rack is), is notorious for causing LEAKS. In other words, where the "luggage rack" is attached ... big hole ... it is HOLLOW right there.
So we lucked out ... we were able to follow where the water was getting in and we sealed all the HOLES accordingly.
Since a new windshield was installed, we had a "good seal" there (#1 culprit @ times).
We took the luggage rack off and basically made a "gasket" before putting it back on! (when you take it off, you will see what I mean).
We also sealed the hole(s) where the inside, assist handle is located. (the handle in the upper, left corner).
Hopefully, this helps someone else. Not exactly SURE which method worked (I believe it was the LUGGAGE RACK HOLES), but we no longer have that problem when it rains anymore.
(** note - we had the battery replaced and a new alternator, before figuring this out .... sheesh )