Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
open for anything , thank you guys again...
any excess pressure in the tank is stored in the fuel vapor canister. If you leave your cap loose, it could trigger your check engine light to come on.
After it dies
Remove the tire valve looking cap on the fuel rail and see if you get a shot of fuel or not. Press on the valve stem. DO NOT have your face over this valve when you press it.
Let me know
Cliff
My mechanic said he thought it was the fuel pump also, problem is he says, is the fuel pump is an assembly that has a bunch of other components that costs in the neighborhood of $400.. Will look for a junk yard special or internet special.
Thanks for the info.
what did you find out ?
Cliff
When engine started to about to stall, we quickly started probing all the wires under the hood and near tank to see if any wire makes the difference. Imagine, it was as simple as the plug to the ingition distributor: when pressed, the engine recovered quickly. Looks like one of the plug's pins got oxidized/covered with some corrosion over time, so the solution was basically to switch off the ignition, have the plug out and then back in.
I think I should have done it earlier because I have seen the codes in memory: 14 (PIP circuit failure) and 18 (SPOUT circuit open or IDM circuit failure). I do advise to replug the connectors under the hood (incl. the PCM one) if you have your engine to randomly stall still.
The other problem to find out was that the newly installed pump is probably also flawed:
after returning home happily from the friend's garage 15 miles away, on the very next day, I heard no humming buzz from the pump on the key switch. The wires near the Ford's fuel shut-off switch (in the trunk) were warm. I measured resistance on the switch plug pins and it showed about 1.5 Ohm -- exactly the same value as the installed Walbro's pump had on itself.. So I knocked the fuel tank with a wooden hammer several times, and tried the key again -- barely heard humming suddenly buzzed back? I knocked it again and tried cranking the engine -- it almost did it, but still no go.. If that was a fuse, it wouldn't behave this way i think. But I was told Walbro's pumps are very good? Anyway, it's a public parking near the 9-storeyed block, so I guess they'll have to see my shoe sole more often this week
Well if anything else comes up I will be sure to let you know. Sorry it took me so long to get back to you, but having my car again I had a lot of things to catch up on and take care of.....
Best Wishes and If any one needs to know anything let me know and I will do my best to help out any way i can...
On your gas gage, if you can find the hot feed back to your fuel pump,Not the feed for the pump, but the 1 for your gage, ( it will be smaller gage wire than the pump takes) When you find this wire, have a helper turn key on and watch gage while you connect that feed wire to ground for just a sec. if your gage goes to full than your gage and wiring to it are in Good Cond and problem is most likely in your tank unit.
Keep in touch
Cliff
~B
Any after market or suggestions for a different fuel pump? :mad:
Problems have been found there also.
Cliff
Find the pressure test port on the fuel rail, remove cap and press down valve with small screwdriver, make sure you DON"T have your face over this valve. It should shoot a stream of gas for a sec. If you have the key on the pump should kick on again.
Cliff
the pump should remain running.
Cliff
Could it be a relay?? Could it be because all the fuel lines and other connections werent completed? PLEASE GUYS/GALS, if you can shed some light please try..Im all ears as we are expecting snow soon and hers is the only registered vehicle at the moment..Besides my bike..Thanks for the responses and all the help!!! Sincerely, Ed Williams
I know there has to be a tester out there that I could just plug in and it would tell me the problem but I do not have it so its trial and error.
Thanks for the help previously and all I'll get in the future. Without sites like this us old time shade tree mechanics would give up....believe me I want to.
Well Ive got the throttle body propped open to help dry up the plugs and have a charger on the battery. Hopefully when I go back out it just fires right up...hahahahah A GUY CAN WISH RIGHT, Thanks again, ED
Sooooo, any tips on changing the head gasket??? lol...I'll look on another thread. Thanksssssss alllllll
MY QUESTION: IS THERE A POSSIBILITY THAT WHEN I CHANGED THE MOTOR MOUNTS, THAT I DID SOMETHING TO MISALIGNED THE TRANSMISSION TO THE MOTOR, BECAUSE WHEN CHANGING THE MOTOR MOUNTS I HAD TO MOVE THE ENGINE LIKE 2 INCHES IN ORDER FOR THE MOTOR MOUNT IN THE REAR PASSENGER TO LINE UP( I HAD TO MOVE THE ENGINE FORWARD AND THEN BACK)
PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF ANYONE HAS ANY IDEA WHAT THE PROBLEM IS....
THANK YOU: LADYAUTOMECH......
sorry for a late reply. i did replaced motor mounts, as well as transmission itself on my taurus several times. used to have smth similar problem ones, but it was related to misaligned kickdown cable spring, it can be tuned easily following your repair manual like chilton or haynes. Your description of noise also suggests there could be more severe a problem, even independent of what you did (a coincidence). If kickdown doesn't help, i would suggest to have a friend to listen from under the car, while you are shifting transaxle -- where does the noise come from: an engine or the transmission, any vibration or parts loose? If its transmission, you may simply "drop" it (without removing the engine, only CV joints), quick check it and the converter and reinstall it back (or overhaul the transmission, taking this opportunity, even better). Let forum folks know if it doesn't help!
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Share your vehicle reviews
It seems like it's more of a spark problem than gas. Try beating this one by an exception method (it will be like small overhaul for your car, at the same time):
1. Кeplace fuel filter(~4$)
2. Change motor oil. Install new oil pressure switch (~5$).
3. Replace PCV valve (~1$) and air filter ~4$
4. Replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM often is faulty on Taurus!) ~25$
5. Make sure your battery is not weared out, and alternator is charging it fine.
6. Replace those whitish cracked plumbum clamps on your battery terminals, they are oxydised from inside.
7. Install new spark plugs, check the spark cables.
8. Replace the distributor cap ~8$ with a new distributor rotor (~3$)
9. Install new starter solenoid ~5$
All can be done in your home garage, or in the open air. Changing those parts will also help if there are any loose/oxidized connectors causing extra resistance. If problem persists, and there are no any error codes in the computer, consider to go for major expenses like wash fuel system/clean injectors at your preferred auto service (~150$); buy a new starter ~50$ or new fuel pump (~60$), costly but won't hurt your car anyway) Hope it helps a bit.../arctic_taurus
We were thinking it might be a fuel rail issue or the sensor/regulator that's located at the end of the fuel rail. My brother ran an app on it and I believe it said bank 1 was running lean.
We took it to a dealership and they THINK it is the fuel pump. The cost $1000. They ran a couple of tests and the following information was on the invoice. 215250 code P0172 Rich bank 2, PSI test was 26-35 psi entire ride No vacuum leaks.
I consulted a good local mechanic and after hearing the sympoms he was skeptical about the fuel pump because the misfire does'nt get worse when accelerating up hill. It actually clears up better. He said run it to failure and he would charge under $500 to replace the fuel pump. Any thoughts on the problem.
Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated. The idea of driving around with no temp gauge really bothers me!
Thanks!
If the computer really is getting a good signal from the sending unit, what is the error code on the check engine light?
New temperature sender for your Sable (2 pinned from Motorcraft) costs 9 dollars and surely you can replace it yourself, and also probably check the wiring from it in order to make sure.
On another hand, if it proves to be a cluster problem, I would assume you have an electronic cluster because there is virtually nothing to break in the mechanical one :confuse: ...regards, arctic_taurus