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Comments
thx.
Aceman
20s in town and 29-31 on the highway.....
I had a 05 cts and have had climate control in cars since 1988 and when the car was hot inside the fan would come up to full speed until the car began to cool down.
I had the car back to cadillac and they are telling me that the factory says this is normal in the 0908 and 09 cts.
I do not buy that. has any one else experienced this and if so what was the fix.
as for wind noiuse in the sun roof,there is none when it is closed and the gas mileage on highway driving is great. over 30 mpg at 75 mph. local is about 20 mpg.
I had a 05 cts with an aftermarket sun roof and that always had wind noise and they could not stop it.
joey245
Do you have the base suspension? Sport Suspension 18" wheels? Or the 18" Summer tire suspension? AWD?
I am thinking that possibly AWD or Limited Slip is causing the lower MPG reports from some?
Please keep us posted!
i thought i was nuts and when i mentioned it to my service writer,his reply was we know all about it. they ordered a rear differential insulation kit and re aligned the differential and now all its ok.
i posted the following question earlier and have not had any response.
when my car sits in the hot sun and i start it up the climate control blower only comes up to a little more then half speed. i have had climate control in cars since 1988 including a 2005 cts and when the car was hot inside the fan speed would come up to maximum, until the car started to cool down.
the only way i can get the fan to come up on high speed is to lower the temp to 60 degrees or bring the speed up manually.
general motors tech has told my dealer that this is the way it works in the 2008 and 2009 cts.
i think they have a manufacturing defect. if any one else is experiencing this problem,please let me know. if it works properly,i would also appreciate hearing from you.
joey245
all this seems to be car unique......I have an 09 RWD non-DI model fully loaded otherwise...and have neither problem... picked it up in Sept 08 and have over 10K on it now without any problems......
here is the TSB for the insulators:
This bulletin is being revised to update model years and add insulator washers (only for vehicles built without washers). Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 08-07-30-044 (Section 04 - Driveline/Axle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a drone, boom, moan or vibration during light acceleration which phases in and out in intensity.
The condition may be most noticeable at about 80 km/h (50 mph), or 1000 - 1300 engine RPM, and occurs over a speed range of 5 to 8 km/h (3 to 5 mph).
Cause
This condition may be caused by the rear axle assembly responding to engine firing frequencies passed through the driveline when the torque converter clutch (TCC) is engaged.
Correction
For All Vehicles -- Calibration Update
This condition can be verified by driving the vehicle to duplicate the concern and using the Tech 2® to turn off the TCC. If the noise stops when the TCC is turned off, the calibration detailed below should help to eliminate the noise or vibration.
Important:
• This calibration may result in decreased fuel economy up to approximately one mpg/kpg. Because of this, the software should not be used in a vehicle without this concern.
• There are two calibration part numbers that are "selectable" for this controller. Read the description to determine the correct calibration for this condition.
• DO NOT replace rear drive axle or propshaft for this concern.
A revised calibration has been developed to correct this condition. Technicians are to reprogram the transmission control module (TCM) using SPS with the latest software available on TIS2WEB. Refer to the Service Programming System (SPS) procedures in SI. As always make sure your Tech 2® is updated with the latest software version.
For Vehicles Built Prior to VIN Breakpoint 90159377 - Install Insulator Washers After Reprogramming
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in SI.
2. Place a transmission jack stand under the rear differential assembly.
3. Remove the two front differential mounting bolts
4. Install the rubber insulators (2), GM P/N 20827776, between the rear drive axle and the body
5. Install the rear differential mounting bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the rear differential mounting bolt (1) to 220 N•m(162 lb ft).
6. Remove the transmission jack stand.
7. Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty
20827776 INSULATOR ASM - DIFF CARR 2
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
K9532* Transmission Control Module Transmission Reprogramming with SPS 0.4 hr
Add Install Rubber Insulators in Rear Differential 0.3 hr
*This is a unique labor operation for bulletin use only. It will not be published in the Labor Time Guide.
GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION
© 2009 General Motors Corporation. All rights reserved.
I just purchased a 2009 CTS AWD 3.6L. Sharp car, but my gas mileage is terrible. 11.2 mpg. Sad
I've run through a couple tanks of gas from different stations, but the mpg turns out about the same.
I drive about 25 miles a day round trip to work. I've tried to vary my driving style and drive as conservatively as possible with no real change in mpg. My commute is mostly city driving. I just brought it back to the dealer and they said all things check out OK.
I have noticed some stuttering in the acceleration. Any thoughts?
I also got a rental CTS from the dealer while they looked at my car. It was a 2009 RWD 263hp. This car is a lot peppier then mine and has the mpg on the dash listed as 20.5 mpg.
Hmmm? Something seems wrong here. The dealer said I should drive for a couple thousand miles to get a real idea on the mpg.
I'm getting 165 to 185 miles to a tank of gas. This will not fly. Do I have a lemon?
Any thoughts? Tips?
Thanks for any help.
best,
-S
I feel the best way to measure MPG easily and quickly is to monitor the instant MPG display on cruise, on a Flat highway going around 60 or so. If that gets close to the 25-26 EPA, then nothing is wrong for the highway. If that MPG stinks, then something could be wrong and you will have a better argument with service.
Stuttering in acceleration also may indicate something not correct.
Don't monitor MPG in "Sport Mode" (shifter to the right).
If the 263hp engine felt faster than yours, that is another indication of yours not running well.
Here are the specifics on my CTS
3.6L Direct Injection All-Wheel Drive V6 engine with 304 hp
Transmission, 6-speed automatic transmission.
Performance Collection, 18" All-Season Tire Performance Package
Yes, the 263HP RWD felt more responsive.
I will try the highway 60 MPH test and see if I get the 25-26 EPA.
thx,
-s
Some reporting normal 27ish mpg and others reporting teens, makes it sound like they have a problem or are calculating wrong or just reporting the computer avg mpg. My current 25 mpg highway often is around 15-17 around town.
If cruise or steady at 60-70 mph on flat road isn't up in the mid 20's, you might have a problem, especially considering performance doesn't feel good compared to the 263hp engine.
I have not driven the DI yet, so I can't talk about the difference in feel. I also wonder if the Michlen tires on FE2 grip well enough, as they are more of a touring tire than a perf all season.
I'd be super happy with 23-24,.....
I'd be happy with 15/16, but 11.6 consistent seems way off.
I have 1400 miles on my CTS(AWD DI 304). Do you think I'll get better MPG as I put on more miles?
Thx,
- S
about 5,000 miles. I don't see any way for merely breaking in to increase around 10 mpg.
If your commute has lights and stop and go, the avg mpg means very little.
The highway run on instant means more right now and may be your best way to convince your service there is a problem. The sluggish running also sounds like a sign something is wrong.
I am not a mechanic. I just observe my Cadillacs using the instant mpg and only monitor average for longer highway trips. I have had several Eldorados with the 300hp Northstar, that all could get 25mpg highway at long distance or using the
instant mpg monitor at highway speeds.
A long shot wild guess is to check your oil level, in case they forgot to fill it up, although if seriously low, the car should warn you. Also make sure the tires are inflated where they should be.
I also notice the idle flutter.
Are you getting 11/12 MPG?
My dealer also gave me a all OK, based on diagnostic computer hook up when I first brought it in.
Thx,
-s
Good luck guys.
I feel if the combined is 17.2, then their highway could be around 25, which matches up with the EPA estimate.
Assuming you guys with sputtering have a problem, it might not be something that reports a code, if all your service guys are doing to checking for an error code. You might have something wrong like a bad spark plug.
So I left the car there and decided I would investigate this. I went on the internet and read every review I could find. Eventually I found 2 professional reviewers who loved the power of the DI but warned about roughness at idle and slow speeds. Please don't ask me for the reviews, it was 4 months ago and I don't remember.
Ok, so no DI engine for me! I then test drove the old reliable non DI engine and loved it. The power was more than adequate and the refinement was far superior.
As far as mileage goes, my history with Cadillac and the 3.6 V6, has taught me that initial mileage stinks, the mileage on my 2006 STS was still improving at 2 years and 25,0000 miles when I turned it back into the dealer.
My 2009 base CTS got about 10mpg in mostly city on the first tank. The first time I took it on the highway I couldn't get it above 24 mpg. At about 1000 miles I was able to get 26-28 mpg on highway. Now at 2000 miles, I just took a 20 mile trip on I-95 at about 65-70 mph and got 29.5 mpg. Now the city mileage is nothing to write home about, maybe 15 mpg. If you look at the Instant Mileage reading you will see it plummet when you accelerate. So a steady foot will dramatically increase mileage.
Sorry for such a long post, but other things to consider are the weight of the vehicle and the conditions you drive in. AWD adds about 200 lbs, sunroof adds 125lbs. additional options add more weight. I have the base car, doesn't even have the spare tire. Also, I live in South Florida, where the roads are flat, we are at sea level and the weather is always nice.
When my wife was driving the CTS 52 miles roundtrip to work on a daily basis, she was averaging 24 - 27 mpg. Now that she only drives 1 to 2 miles roundtrip, she averages 17 - 19 mpg. The engine barely gets to warm up and a car needs some highway miles to achieve better mileage. Trips to the mall (about 5 miles away) actually help raise her average mpg.
Give your CTS some time and don't worry.
I PURCHASED A NEW 2009 CTS THE END OF DECEMBER AND I POSTED A QUESTION IN REGARDS TO HOW THE CLIMATE CONTROL IS WORKING IN THE 2008 AND 2009 CTS.
I ONLY HAD ONE RESPONSE.
I WOULD APPRECIATE IT IF YOU GUYS OR GALS WOULD ANSWER MY POST AND LET ME KNOW HOW YOUR CLIMATE CONTROL IS WORKING WHEN ON THE AUTO MODE.
I LIVE IN SOUTH FL AND THE CAR GETS HOT WHEN IT SITS OUTSIDE. WHEN I START IT UP AND SET THE CLIMATE CONTROL AT 70 DEG.THE BLOWER WILL COME UP TO ABOUT MEDIUM SPEED FPOR A FEW MINUTES AND BEFORE THE CAR HAS COOLED DOWN,THE BLOWER SPEED SLOWS DOWN. I CAN BRING THE FAN SPEED UP MANUALLY OR LOWER THE TEMP TO 60 DEG AND THEN THE FAN SPEED COMES UP.
I HAD THE CAR BACK TO MY DEALER FOR THREE DAYS AND HE CLAIMS THAT IS HOW THE CLI,MATE CONTROL WORKS IN THE 08 AND 09 CTS.
HE TELLS ME HE CALLED CADILLAC TECH AND THEY ADVISED HIM IT IS WORKING PROPERLY.
I CALLED CADILLAC CUSTOMER SUPPORT AND COMPLAINED. I HAVE HAD CARS WITH CLIMATE CONTROL SINCE 1988 INCLUDING A 2005 CTS AND WHEN THE CAR WAS HOT INSIDE AND THE TEMP WAS SET AT BETWEEN 70 AND 74 DEG, THE BLOWER WOULD COME ON FULL BLAST AND SLOWLY SLOW DOWN AS THE CAR COOLED DOWN.
CADILLAC TECH TOLD ME TO TAKE THE CAR TO ANOTHER DEALER AND HAVE IT RE CHECKED. I HAVE NOT GOTTEN AROUND TO THAT YET,BUT I WOULD APPRECIATE HEARING IF ANY ONE ELSE IS EXPERIENCING THIS PROBLEM.
THANKS
JOEY000245
Right now most reading this are probably in too cold of a climate to see how their climate control functions in hot weather. Since you are in FL, an idea for you is to go to a dealer on a hot day and start up some CTS there to see if they function the same way as yours. This would not be the first auto feature on any brand, where some engineer tries to improvce something and makes it worse. It does make some sense that if the gap between the desired temp and the actual temp isn't too great, that the blower would run at less than full speed, either to reduce noise, save the blower, etc.
i have an 09 cts,bought it dec 29th.08 and it has about 1200 miles on it now.
i have no whine in first gear.it has the direct injection 3.6 engine.
there is a rear end problem in some of the 2009,s and i think the late 2008.
over 40 mph i was getting a pulsating feeling in my ears. i thought my dealer would think i was nuts when i told him about it.
his reply was,"we know all about it. there is a soundproofing kit that needs to be installed around the rear end." they also re aligned the rear axle and the sound is gone.
my only complaint is the climate control, and i am making an appointment with another dealer next week to try and resolve that problem.
joey000245
My 2009 CTS climate control fan runs fast until the car approaches the set temp. Then the fan slows.
Good luck
I tried the 60 mph test. The average mpg did say 18 to 21 mpg traveling at aprx 60 mph on a flat road. OK, well, Hmmm? I have not had a long trip with the CTS09 yet doing primary highway driving. This will be my final test.
With about 40 miles of straight highway driving the best I have been able to get is 13.3 MPG average on a tank .(203 miles to a tank of gas - 15.25 gals)
I live in the Boston area and if you've driven here, you know it can be pretty much stop and go driving. Since I have bought the car I have calculated my average mpg for a tank to be from a low of 10.9 to high of 13.3 mpg.
Well what to I do now. Live with it?
My wife drives a 02 Jeep Cherokee Larado and appears to get the same or better city mileage. It appears other CTS owners are getting better mileage, so I just want to make sure I didn't get a :lemon: .
The sticker lists 17 MPG city. Let's say I get 12.4 MPG (conservative driving). Is this difference typical?.
Is there anything I can suggest for the dealer to check?
Do Escalade driver's get 5 MPG?
I think the car is really sharp, I'm just a little bummed that it seems I bought a gas hog. ;(
-s