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The 2 screws on the underside of the mirror will let you remove it from the arm. Want to take the glass out? You'd probably be better off just masking it with painter's tape and newspaper.
Other than that, there really isn't much to take apart.
-Paul
Check for a hose on the firewall, kinda below the battery. There is a 1" or so pipe coming off and it is meant to be used for condensation removal. You need a J-tube to point down. During driving, this can blow back into the TJ onto the passenger floor area.
Another option is that the spongy gasket that surrounds the heater core is saturated and letting water in. This is the problem I have. If you remove the battery, you can see the heater core (kinda roundish). if you reach in there with your finger, you'll feel the gasket stuff. Building up a 'wall' of silicon to prevent water from standing there at the bottom of that area will help keep water out of there. Also, you can spray some scotch-guard on the gasket to help repel the water a bit better. If you want to see where it is coming in, run some water on the outside of the Jeep and look under the carpet up on the 'floor' that runs up to the firewall. You should see a stream coming from that rounded area that is the heater core. I used baby powder on the floor to trace the water patch to confirm this.
It is also possible that your drains in your cowl area are clogged. Remove the cowl with a Phillips screwdriver (some screws are under the rubber trim for the hood) and make sure all debris is out of that area.
If I can find a pic of that J-tube thing I'll post it up to make it clearer.
-Paul
http://www.stu-offroad.com/body/ac/acleak-1.htm
There is a part you can get from the Jeep dealership for a couple of bucks, but a PVC elbow joint and some glue would work just as well.
Call your dealership and they can give you the P/N for it. Just tell em you need the J-tube to keep A/C condensation from coming in.
If you do that, check your cowl drains for debris, and silicon up that spongy gasket beneath the battery around the heater core, you should be pretty good.
-Paul
Thanks in advance
(1) Move the seats to the full rearward position.
(2) Grasp shift handle (auto trans only) and firmly pull upward to remove.
(3) Using a small flat blade, pry up shift indicator bezel, disengage bezel lamp connector and remove bezel (auto trans only).
(4) Using a trim stick, pry up shift boot and remove (manual trans only).
(5) Remove the trim disc from the bottom of the cup holder.
(6) Remove the bolts attaching the console to the floor pan.
(7) Shift transfer case to four low position.
(8) Lift the console upward and shift transmission to L (2nd gear for man. trans.).
(9) Remove console through the passenger door.
If you have the full console:
(1) Move the seats to the full rearward position.
(2) Move the passenger seat in the full recline position.
(3) Grasp shift handle (auto trans only) and firmly pull upward to remove.
(4) Using a small flat blade, pry up shift indicator bezel, disengage bezel lamp connector and remove bezel (auto trans only).
(5) Using a trim stick, pry up shift boot and remove (manual trans only).
(6) Remove the bolts attaching the console to the floor pan.
(7) Shift transfer case to four low position.
(8) Engage parking brake.
(9) Lift the console upward and rotate to remove.
Be aware that there ARE holes to the outside under there. Not sure how well covered up they are, but those levers (t-case and shifter) leave the vehicle.
Hope you find your ring.
-Paul
1. You can use some needlenose pliers to kinda pull the bolt out a bit so the fastener on the backside (that you can't reach) is against the sheet metal and less likely to spin. I've done this on my back flares successfully.
2. Use a reciprocating saw (sawzall) and just cut the bolt.
I've found if you peel back the wheel well liner you can get access to nearly every bolt fastener.
-Paul
Also, when I put on the left turn signal, it blinks fast and all the turn indicator lights blink except the front parking light. Right turn is ok.
What is the "module" you replaced?
Terry
Same effect if you put in LED lighting in any corner. A new relay is required to return blinks to normal rate.
For dash lights only being out, are your speedometer and tach working or is it EVERYTHING out? May be as simple as removing the dash cluster, cleaning the contacts and bending the pins a tiny bit. Dielectric grease can help too to ensure a good connection free from corrosion.
-Paul
Burn the TJ down...get a CJ...Life can still be good.
Thanks bilbo3.
Terry
-Paul
Not sure if this has anything to do with it but thought I would mention it anyway.
Auto Recall Date: 20051006
Vehicle Component: POWER TRAIN:AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
Estimated Vehicles Affected: 256409
2006 JEEP WRANGLER Defect Summary:
ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, SPORT UTILITY AND PASSENGER VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 42RLE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS, THE CUP PLUG THAT RETAINS THE PARK PAWL ANCHOR SHAFT MAY BE IMPROPERLY INSTALLED. IF THE SHAFT MOVES OUT OF POSITION, THE VEHICLE MAY NOT BE ABLE TO ACHIEVE 'PARK' POSITION.
Defect Consequence:
IF THIS OCCURS AND THE PARKING BRAKE IS NOT APPLIED, THE VEHICLE MAY ROLL AWAY AND CAUSE A CRASH WITHOUT WARNING.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL INSPECT THE TRANSMISSIONS AND INSTALL A BRACKET TO ENSURE THE PARK PAWL ANCHOR SHAFT IS RETAINED IN THE PROPER POSITION. THE RECALL BEGAN ON NOVEMBER 28, 2005. OWNERS MAY CONTACT DAIMLERCHRYSLER AT 1-800-853-1403.
Notes: DAIMLERCHRYSLER CORPORATION, E14
2
need to get it inspected in May (I live in PA), so I guess I can let the dealership say "I dunno what it is"... *grin*
To me it sounds light it MIGHT be something with a u-joint. Do you hear any chirping while driving? Does it do anything in turns, or just from a stop?
-Paul
Judy
I used a BUNCH of RTV (the stuff you seal up the differentials with) and did the following:
After having my passenger's side floorboard wet AGAIN after a bout of rain, I decided I'd had enough.
I had previously attempted to stop it, but no go. Here's what I did. First off, remember that I have a 97 TJ and the cowl on those has a 'fake' vent over the passenger side.
1. I removed the cowl by removing the 7 or so screws that hold it on. Then remove the wiper blade arms. I then RTV'd the underside of THAT to ensure water wasn't falling into the HVAC intake. If you don't have a 97, this is not required. But you will STILL need to remove the cowl cover.
2. I then RTV'd around the HVAC intake itself. Looks like the previous owner had tried this and not done a good job, so I removed the silicon stuff and applied a liberal amount of RTV, ensuring there were no gaps, similar to how you'd apply caulk around joints in a shower or tub. I've seen covers you can put over this, and may consider that if it leaks again.
3. I removed the battery and battery tray so I could get to the heater core area behind the battery. I removed my previous attempt where I used silicon and it was not holding up well at all. I cleared that off using a painter's tool, then went to town on the RTV. I could see the spongy gasket material that was getting saturated. I built up the area by the sponge and proceeded to RTV that entire area, including running up the side of the heater core/blower area so NO water would get in.
If you look closely, you'll see where that gap in the metal had been and where the gasket was showing. I built it up a bit more after this pic and now water will not collect there, and even if it DID, there'd be no way for it to get in.
After the rain we had last week, I checked it out and it was totally dry.
I also have the A/C drain tube installed, in case people wanted to see that. You don't use the A/C that much, and this may already be in place, but worth it if it is not there currently - so when you DO use the A/C, it is good to go.
So if you are getting wet floorboards, doing this may not totally solve your problem (windows/doors, windshield leaks, etc), but it will definitely stop one avenue of water.
-Paul
-Paul
-Paul
thank you
-Paul
thanks
Thanks
-Paul
to coil any ideas?
2: Yes, a slight amount of oil is normal
what should I be looking for? are there any manuals on line that I can refferance?
Thanks
I think your problem is exactly the same as my 05 Wrangler X . I assume you have a 6 cylinder (the 4 cylinder may be a bit different) - open the hood and look at the top right side of the engine. There is an intake manifold that is long and runs parallel to the engine valve cover. About 1/2 way along the intake manifold is a small fitting where a small hose fits on. My guess is the hose has slipped off the fitting. This happened to me and I just cleaned the hose off and reseated the hose over the fitting. Mine is real loose fitting so if it falls of again I will secure it with a Ty-wrap. This hose is small (around 3/8") and gose up from the intake mainfold and around the rear of the engine. This totally solved my problem and I am sure your a/c will be good as new!
This hose is very small, unlike the brake booster hose, and fits wery loosely. It dosent seem to be deterioriated at all. I will take your suggestion and see how these are secured on another jeep. thanks for your input
-Paul