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The search function on this site works really well.
Try searching "guages don't work" or "Dash goes out" or something like that.
You will probably find 100+ posts. There is a pretty easy fix. Some of the posts are more detailed than others.
Terry
Before reassembling, coat with dielectric grease for a good solid connection.
-Paul
Apply brake - ZAP! No lights.
-Paul
problem? the tires now stick out about an inch past the 4" flares... i see a wider set in jcwhitneys, and a few in the jeep mags...
question? how difficult are they to put on? it looks like there's only a few bolts holding the flares on... but i can't tell about the stuff between the wheels below the doors... what holds them on?
do i have to actually remove that stuff? there's a pretty good set of running boards there that runs from the bottom rear of the front flare to the bottom front of the rear flare...
anyone point me to a website that shows stuff like this? or maybe another idea than wider flares?
by the way, the rims look awesome!!! the wrangler has a wider stance...
thanks!
perhaps it was a fluke? perhaps not? but its fixed now
You can possibly get Rubicon flares which look identical but are a tad wider. Aftermarket flares should mount exactly how the stock ones do. There is a nutsert behind the sheet metal (and under the wheel well liners) that you can get to. The front is easy, as you can reach the 'back' of the wheel well from directly underneath. The rear wheel wells are a bit harder as you have to sometimes get behind the well liner to hold a nutsert that comes loose. When I removed mine a while back to put new ones on, most stayed in place. I only had 4 total I had a problem with and had them start spinning.
-Paul
If your tires now stick out past the rubber splash guards then there is now no reason to even have them on any more.
Don't buy wider rubbers, They are a waste of money and make you Jeep look like an 80's Testerosa Body Kit (silly).
Now would be the perfect time to rip the rub-guards off and let the mud fly.
This would be a good time to throw away the little running board (helper steps) and bumpers too. A short chunk of iron with tow hooks is all you need up front put a trailer hitch on the back. Now yer Jeepin'.
Mud splatter and rock chips looks a lot cooler than ghetto fender extensions.
I do agree with the steps - lose em. But I put rock rails on instead.
The plastic flares DO help when offroad - I'd much rather have them rub than the metal itself.
-Paul
Cool JEEP.
The Testarosa comment was in ref. to the ones where the flares are wider than the tires. (7 inch)
Your set up looks just right.
I helped chop one up last year.
He was running 12.50 33's w/3" taller coils on a '99 TJ. We removed the flairs and running boards. Also cut the front fenders back.
Made it look like an old CJ 2A.
...so far getting away w/Honda turn signals in the grill.
Goober b
ashed the body below the passengers door the first time out. So your right, "...rock rails good."I have been pulling back the wire covers bit by bit looking for the chafed wire that is most likely underlying this problem. Any info would be helpful, wiring diagrams would be great.
where do i measure to judge what i have now and what i need? i got a guy thats a pro body man that says he'll put them on for me... cheap i've done him some good deeds in the past, so he's paying me back... without me asking him to do so, by the way...
what about the measurements though? how do i decide what i need?
when i first bought my wrangler, my fuel pump would quit on me after a short time of driving... i found i could beat on the bottom of the fuel tank near the right bottom side where you find a bump... and it would start up again...
i had the pump replaced... had to drop the tank, the **** thing is INSIDE!!! and these days of cheap, trashy fuel, it may just be the filter, which is inside too...
so the 2 problems may seem related, but actually not? i don't know... i've seen wilder things...
i was told while writing this that there is a download using limewire or bitttorrent of a cdrom disk that has all the jeep wrangler parts, repair stuff, etc... on it...
i don't know if its a bootleg (pirated) copy or not...
might be worth a look...
i'm still trying to figure out what size flares i need for mine...
seeya!
Before this I was about to give up and go to an auto electrician, but now I have some hope. I'm trying to save $ for school this fall and I'd rather not pay someone to wrap a piece of tape around a wire if I don't have to.
I will keep posting here and let you all know the final resolution to this problem.
For the $95.00 or so it costs to buy one, it is well worth it. One repair using it can pay for it. Don't support pirated information.
-Paul
Have you ever had a car that you just love, and you know every motor sound, every body moan and groan, and exactly how it handles after years of driving? Then you get a new noise and it drives ya nuts?
I recently pressure washed my 2004 2.5L 4-cyl engine, and now I get a high pitched whining noise when I hit the gas. The noise is still detectable at idle speeds. All gauges are normal, it runs the same as always, but that noise is driving me insane. is the same I even replaced the serpentine belt just in case.
Any suggestions for things to check??? Thanks
I-6 4.0L fuel injected engine, automatic transmission, 3 speed, 300 transfer case, low range 4:1, axle ratio 4.88:1, BFGoodrich Mud Terrain T/A 35x12.50 R 15, 131:1 / 54:1 crawl ratio.
The idle speed stayed around 750RPM. At that speed, the Jeep would crawl at a fast walking speed on flat ground when in 4LO and first gear. Going downhill, there would be little engine braking because it would be already going too fast and I had to ride the brakes most of the time. The owner said this is how it was supposed to run, but I have rented Jeep automatics in the past and found they barely creeped in 4LO and low gear and they provided reasonable downhill engine braking.
The idle is not adjustable, but the specs I have found for the 4.0L engine say 600 RPM +/-70RPM, so 670 should be the upper limit. To me, 750 was too high and was causing my problem. The owner disagrees.
So, you Jeep automatic owners, what do you think? Is 750RPM too high? Should an auto in 4LO and low gear creep that fast? Shouldn't you be able to go down moderate grades on engine braking alone? Let me hear your take on this.
Thanks!
http://www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html
-Paul
TIA gentlemen.
It could be an upper or lower knuckle joint, maybe a softening control arm bushing, or possibly one of the many steering joints.
As for the clicking, it's probably either the brakes or a dry 'U' joint. You have 'U' joints on both the front and rear propeller shafts and the front half shafts.
-Paul
How can I prevent it from happening since I do not abuse my Jeep?
2000 sport 4.0 inline 6 with 3" BL
any help is greatly appreciated :sick:
-Paul
http://www.4x4xplor.com/T-CaseTSB.html
Maybe that'll help. It is an easy fix...
-Paul
But I suspect something is/was loose. If you take it in, tell em it pulls right when driving and have them drive it.
Perhaps one thing to check - maybe it isn't really pulling and your steering wheel is just off center (usually caused by loose drag link (the bar coming from the steering box down to the passenger side wheel). This would give the appearance of having to 'turn' the wheel back to the left to get it to track straight. If you check that part that has 2 clamps on it (there are 2 - one is the tie rod -going between both wheels, and this one which is up by the frame just under the steering box), and then see if the clamps or that adjusting sleeve is loose, it may be something you can fix yourself easily. I had to recenter my wheel after doing a lift and changing my steering geometry a bit.
Take a look at this site http://www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html and near the bottom, you'll see the section on recentering your steering wheel. He says it a lot better than I do.
-Paul
just wanted to thank you for you help
-al
I don't know how much air pressure you are running in your tires, but I solved a similar problem by reducing the air pressure from 35 psi to around 28 psi. I have slightly larger than stock tires.
Since you drive only on good roads, the less pressure probably will not hurt handling and might help reduce the bounce.
Let them down to 28 psi (use a good gauge) and see if the problem goes away. If for some reason you want more tire pressure, you can then raise it a little at a time until you find the problem coming back.
Terry
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I can't really say. The tires are 30" compared to the 28-1/2's that were on it new.
I noticed the tendency to bounce right after I got them. I figured with bigger tires, I could get by with a little bigger foot print. It would soften the ride a little, not get me in trouble with wear, and would tend to reduce bounce. So, I really don't know how much mileage was affected by the reduced pressure. Remember also, the bigger tire size changed my odometer by about 5%, making it look like my mileage went down.
I keep good gas mileage records. Correcting for the odometer error, I get about 14.2 mpg with all town driving.
Tire wear is even and the bounce went away.
Terry
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
We cannot recreate the problem at will. It does not happen every time we hit a bump.
One would think that if something was disconnected etc. that it would happen more frequently. I have a feeling that if I take it to the dealer they will not be able to recreate the problem and I will pay a service charge for nothing. I guess that is what I will have to do though. At least it will be on record in case something more serious happens. I just wish I could find the problem myself. Could something be lose or disconnected and still only effect it on once and a while? The jeep is stock and I do not know what type of suspension component would effect it the way it has I would agree that it could have been the brakes but this happens when we are not under braking. I was hoping that someone has had this problem and could tell me what the problem was. Thanks for your time.
QUESTION: Has anyone actually had one of these fixed? Jeep garage says a new engine.
Not under warranty....364.00 out the door. I hope this does not happen every 16,000 mi.