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What would be really nice is if someone could hook me up with someone here local (Tampa Fl area) that might be able to help or maybe even someone out there could get me a copy of a wiring diagram so I can make the cruise work. Thanks for any help. I'm at my wits end with this. :confuse: :confuse:
EdAlex
However you do it, you need to position the windshield frame correctly in relation to the doors first, then you connect the roll bar to the windshield frame to hold it in that position. Slacken or adjust whatever you need to, in order to achieve that.
WELL I JUST BOUGHT A 98 WRANGLER THAT HAD A 3INCH BODY WITH 34.5 SUPER SWAMPERS. I ADDED A 4IN PRO COMP SUSP. LIFT. I'M ONLY GETTING 13 TO THE GALLON. IS THAT NORMAL?
btw, people tend to ignore posts in ALL CAPS since they are hard to read.
thats why
:confuse:
To me it sounds and looks like the bead blew out - is this possible?
Thanks
Any ideas?
When rain water hits the driver door, a white film covers the door like a waxy haze. Itook to dealer and he used brake cleaner to bring it back to normal.
Since then, when it rains the same film reappears, not as bad, but diasppears whe nthe door dries. Regular water during washings causes no problem. This only happens on driver door.
Could egg residue cause this? What a mystery.
That is a mystery! Why would you suspect egg residue?
IMO, the globular proteins in eggs would not distinguish between tap water and rain unless the rain were acidic. I would expect tap water to have greater mineral content and be more likely create issues but you're observing the effect with rain water only.
tidester, host
I guess that there's an easy to check (carton of eggs, passenger door)! :shades:
I'd browse around the Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts) discussion too (Dawn, clay, new wax?).
I have an 02 Wrangler X Sport with an I6 engine and 5 speed manual transmission. It has very low miles. The truck is completly stock.
I was driving along today on the highway (going about 50-55 miles per hour) in 5th gear when all of a sudden the entire vehicle began to shake violently. No lights came on on the dashboard, but the engine started to cut out. I pulled over to the side instantally and released the clutch. Turned off the engine and got out to find smoke coming from around the transmission case under the front end of the vehicle. It smelled like burning moth balls, not burning rubber. I got it towed home on a flatbed truck, as I didn't want to drive it. I had just been out to a local dealership, and they had access to the vehicle. I think they may have shifted the 4 wheel drive lever around and somehow put it in-between 2H and 4H. The light didn't come on, on the dashboard saying that it was in 4H so that is why I didn't think to check. When I was driving it home from the dealer, the Jeep seemed to have trouble accelerating, especially when in 3, 4 and 5. It felt like something was holding it back. I checked to make sure the parking brake was on but didn't think to check if it was 100% in 2H. It starts and runs. I tried that once it was unloaded at the house. The transmission works, but I'm not going to try driving it again until I know what happened. It is now sitting in my driveway. I have no idea what to do.
What do you all think happened? How much, if any, damage was caused? What should I do with it?
Thank you!
Interior lights will not go off. Just happened at 1500 miles. Prior to this they were working OK. Dealer has had the Jeep twice (full day each time) and they are still puzzled as where to look next.I saw the Jeep with the dash off and everything hanging out so I know they are in it.
The problem seems to be going even further South than me!
Obvious "look-ats" include door switches to wiring clusters.
As for now,they pulled the 10 amp fuse to keep the battery from choking.
Anyone else have this problem or am I an orphan? :confuse:
_theprepressguy
My suggestion to you is get some new gears, smaller tires or some engine "bolt on's" to gain some extra ponies to push you along.
Took it to a Jeep dealership in June and they said it was the spark plugs. Took it to another mechanic and they said the same thing and changed the spark plugs. The Jeep did run a lot better, but I could still tell there was a problem. I took it back in, they said they didn't see a problem and gave it back to me.
This past week, I was on vacation and the Jeep sat for a week. Took it to the grocery store yesterday and it was fine. On the way back, got into third gear and it started lunging again. This time it was so bad the only way to stay on the road was to ride the clutch. Finally got to a place where I could pull off and shut the Jeep off, let it sit for a minute, started back up and drove home without any further incident.
It seems that the Jeep does this when I drive somewhere, let it sit for about an hour and then start it up again. The lunging is so bad it's dangerous because you don't have control of the Jeep to get it going, it just wants to stop.
Yesterday when I pulled off the road, I put it in neutral with the parking break on and the RPMs were going nuts in idle. It was hovering around the number 1, but would go up and down and make a rattling noise in the hood.
Someone please help.....my husband keeps talking about getting rid of it! I am REALLY hoping someone can make some suggestions. I have read that it could be the crank sensor. Does anyone have any ideas? PLEASE HELP!
(BTW: I do have another problem with the Jeep. There is a crack in the manifold. It's been like that for years and I haven't fixed it because it's been running fine until now. I don't know if this has anything to do with it or not. The mechanic and the Jeep dealership didn't seem to think so, but I thought I would throw that out there. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much.)
As for the cracked manifold (assuming it's the exhaust and not the inlet) it could be contributing. On either side of the catalytic converter are oxygen sensors. The second one tells if the converter is doing its job, while the first reveals as to whether the air/fuel mix is correct and allows the computer to correct as necessary. A cracked exhaust manifold can allow air to be sucked in (as well as blowing exhaust gases out) and this will trick the sensor into showing that the mixture is too weak, which will be then be incorrectly compensated for, making for an overly rich mixture which can cause your symptoms.
Is it still under warranty? What does the dealer say?
It should be easy to identify the noise just by listening to it, and without any disassembly being required. Just find an old guy with an interest in old cars.
"Looks great. Had it for one week and the motor started ticking. Dealership found metal shavings in the oil, so far this is day 3 without my brand new Jeep. Don't know when I will get it back. Rides well, nice interior."
"What would cause a constant ticking sound in a Jeep Wrangler engine?
Detonation....Needs to be fixed immediately "
"Also, many owners complain of pinging - also known as detonation, caused by fuel igniting before the spark plugs fire - in six cylinder engines."
Now, get this.
I go back into the house and I can hear the Jeep outside. It sounds liks someone is sitting in the Jeep, revving the engine HARD. It goes from that extreme to choking out and almost sounding like it's going to shut off, but it doesn't shut off. It just sputters and keeps going. This is all happening while it's sitting in idle with the parking break on.
I go outside and turn the Jeep back off. The air outside reeks of gasoline.
So there it sits in my driveway. I had to take a different vehicle to get back to work.
I wanted to relay this information to you to see if this gives you any more of a clue about what is going on with the Jeep. As I said, I'm taking it in on Thursday (provided we can get it there), but would like to know your thoughts before I go see yet another mechanic.
Thanks so much,
Kelly
Let me know what you find out. My 98 is doing the identical same thing, down to the exhaust leak on the manifold. I've changed a lot of things. The one thing that may have helped,(time will tell) is that I changed the Crank Position Sensor last night. This problem started a couple of months ago and has been gradually getting worse.
It could still be the exhaust manifold crack which would take a while to really open up as it gets hot, or it could be a sensor that reads out of range as the heat gets to it.
Good luck.
Also, what is the power train warranties for 2003s?
It could be one or more of several sensors, which is why it's important to first check for codes. Not only the Crankshaft Position Sensor, but the other CPS (Camshaft Position Sensor), the TPS, the IAT sensor, the MAP sensor, and of course the primary O² sensor, can all play a role.
It's also important to interpret any diagnostic codes properly. For instance, a code might have been retained that shows the O² sensor reading out of range. However, this doesn't necessarily mean that the sensor is faulty and needs changing, though this is often what is done on the customers dime. It could be reading incorrectly because of a cracked exhaust manifold, or maybe the relay for the sensor's heater has failed.
No. However, when in low range the engine is turning at higher rpm for any given road speed than in high range, so it could have been the belt squealing as engine revved harder.
Any luck with yours?
Steve
Many reasons for misfires, did they say why they suspect the fuel pump, or was it just a guess?
Well, I finally heard back from the mechanic. He says it's the CAM sensor and something to do with the TAC dropping. He can't get the new CAM sensor until Tuesday, so I'm hoping to get it back then and see how it runs. I will let you know.
This mechanic drove the Jeep until he was able to narrow it down to the point that he could actually MAKE the Jeep lunge. His first suspicion was there was something with the fuel, but eventually he ruled that out and noticed the "TAC dropping" when it was running in low RPMs. (I believe he said 1700, but I'm not sure. I know nothing about cars, so I don't know if that makes sense, but I know it was low RPMs.)
Anyway, I guess the point is, it sounds like it really could be anything. I know it's hard to find a good mechanic, but it seems like it's the type of issue they really need to narrow down and diagnose properly before they have you throwing all kinds of money at it.
He didn't think the crack in the manifold was causing any problems. I know you said you had a crack in the manifold as well, so I wanted to pass that along.
(If any of this doesn't make sense, let me know, I'm sure my husband could explain it better!)
Best of luck, I know how hard they are to drive when they throw fits like that. Please keep me posted on how things go with yours.
Well, you were right about everything. Learned that it could have been one of so many things causing the problem. Turned out to be the CPS you reference above. I think I got a really good mechanic this time and really believe he did the job well. I'm really expecting it to run better when I get it back this time.
The Jeep dealerships around here are a pain in the butt. Their parts shops don't have the sensor, so Tuesday is the earliest I will get it back.
Thanks again for your help!
Steve
The CPS (Cam Position Sensor) on the '97-'99 is located inside the distributor. Injector timing (among other things) is referenced by this CPS.
Make sure to post if the CPS fixes it.
Steve
signal switch, headlights are working. So need to replace that. Now I have no brake lights or turning signals and when I replace the fuse in turn signals and turn them on it blows the fuse. I have had the brake light switch checked and it is working. All other lights are working.
Unless the seal is faulty it's probably leaking because the bearing has worn. The bearing might have worn prematurely if you've been offroad and got water in the axle, or because you're using a wheel with inappropriate offset/backspacing. Bearing and seal should be changed together. The procedure differs slightly depending on whether you have a D35 or D44 axle, which is why it's always a good idea to give full details of your vehicle (year, model, mileage, etc.) if you want a complete answer.