The dealer was nothing to do with the financing of the car. Mazda American credit will need to be paid off before they will release the title to anyone. Your best bet will probably be to write out your check to Mazda American Credit to pay off the loan and arrange for the title to be sent to you. If your are going to get a loan for it, you will take the title with you to the DMV when you register the car and they will take the title from you and send it to your lein holder. At least that's how they do it in MO, YMMV.
Hi guys, I am thinking of installing 17' rear wheels while keeping the front ones 14'. Does anyone know if there is any problem with that? kind like cool-rod.
Yeah but think of the vehicle dynamics. You are going to shift weight and balance to the front and also make the rear easier to break away.
I suspect it would be an awkward vehicle and not very stable in anything but a straight line. Maybe for a show car or creeping around town on a cruise?
Regretfully I my girlfriend and I are selling the 95 Miata we have because we are moving across the country (from Savannah, GA to LA). My question is do you think Edmunds TMV is a pretty accurate representation of what I should be asking for it? I have done a lot of research and Miata's of all ages seem to go for no set price level.
The car has a new Robbins top, Hard Dog sport roll bar, new Westco battery, only 2000 miles on a set of Bridgestone Potenzas and 77k miles on the car. Should this effect what I can get for the car at all? Are there ways/resources to sell the car fairly quickly that I may be overlooking? Getting as much as I can for it would be helpful in funding the move more comfortably.
There are several issues to sort out before you do this.
First, consider unsprung weight. You will actually increase the overall weight substantially, and most likely throw the suspension off balance. The springs/shocks will have to fight with far more mass bouncing over pot holes.
Ride will be untolerably stiff, too. You'll need almost zero sidewall to fit those under the fenders.
Another thing - heavy wheels require more energy to spin. So you'll actually end up with a slower car. Probably not what you want.
And think about it - 17" will not impress anyone nowadays, with the Infiniti FX45 carrying 20" rims standard. If you try to brag about it, they'll say "JUST seventeen? That's it?"
So it won't even accomplish the single goal of impressing by-standers.
From my experience as an appraiser, I think TMV is useful as a "real money" price, that is, the middle of the bell curve where the real action is and where real cars are sold for real money.
Of course, cars are sold outside this curve, but if you want to know what a fair price is, that is "good for buyer, good for seller" I think TMV is pretty darn good. At least you know that if someone waves that much money at you, what TMV says, you should think twice before turning it down.
As for the accessories you mentioned, I don't think they are worth a premium. All "nice" cars are expected to have a good top and good tires, and as for the roll bar, this might be as much an impediment to selling as an asset, depending on who comes buy to look. So I think this option is "self-cancelling".
Are there any other places to sell a pre-owned vehicle besides the ole' classified section in the daily news that anybody has had success with and I should look into?
I hurts me to sell this car when I know I am moving to the one place on earth that God might have created specifically for sporty little convertibles. I'm not over the sports car bug yet though. As soon as we get economically stable out there we are going to get another car like this.
I think www.craigslist.org is good for this type of car. On their website, they show how to advertise (it's free) in various locations around the country.
An ad in a large circulation MAJOR metropolitan paper, while a bit expensive, gives you the most "lookers for the dollar".
Nows' the time to sell this car, so you should get right on it. A little sign in the window can't hurt either but you may not wish to give a home phone #. Better to give a cell.
Do you have a bulletin board at work? That's how I sold our 626, got TMV too.
Or try Cars.com. For instance, all ads in the Washington Post also go on cars.com (not sure if the opposite is true), so it's good for selling a car in DC.
lngtonge18, sorry for taking so long getting back to your May 8th post. The steering wheel on my Miata is the factory wheel that came on 90 Miatas in Canada (with a leather cover added). Unlike the U.S., air bags were not introduced here until 91 I think. You may be able to pick one up on eBay or by visiting the Miata Club of Canada website and looking at the classified section. I've heard of others in the U.S. that have done this.
Well, in the first week of actively selling, the Miata is sold! The first people who came to look bought the car right away, the quickest and easiest automobile transaction I have ever done. They are giving us $5,000 for the car which is right at TMV and what I was expecting to get for the vehicle.
Can someone please explain the difference between the vinyl and cloth convertible tops and what exactly the shinsen model is? I would like cloth seats and it avail only on the base model or shinsen.
It's just that, the fabric used on the outer layer of your top.
My vinyl top is about 11 years old and has one small crack on it, which I've patched. Otherwise it's in good condition. I think that's a pretty long-lasting top. I don't know about the durability of a cloth top.
I bought it used to it is sort of stained a bit, and I was not able to clean it off. But I imagine a cloth top would only require more cleaning.
Other than that, aesthetically, a cloth top looks very nice, and generally they cost more.
I have the Shinsen Version. It is essentially a Base model with the following upgrades:
Titanium Gray paint Blue Cloth Top Blue Seats, Shifter Accent, and Door Accents Shinsen Version badges and floor mats Limited Slip Differential Cruise Control Power Door Locks Keyless Entry Tweeter Speakers in front doors Aluminum looking trim pieces
They only made 1500 of these. I have #442. If you want cloth seats and top, Shinsen is the only option. The cloth top really isn't that hard to clean. I wouldn't worry about it when considering what to buy.
But, there are tons of them out there in great shape so I am not worried that when I am settled in from the move I can find another.
Living in coastal Georgia with the Miata was a bit of a letdown at times because the roads are so straight and flat. Sure it was great to cruise down to the beach with the top down (or even just the grocery store), but I always wanted more curves to play with. I can't wait until I get another little sportscar and my cruise to the beach involves canyon roads! Yeeha!
Purchased a silver on black LS last night. No options. Thanks for all the information gathered on your board while I was trying to make up my mind.
Boggse, I love your Shinsen model. Would have gone that way if the local model was a base Shinsen like yours. This one had AP1 and a spoiler. Beautiful, but I wanted to maintain a little lower profile. Don't know how the enthusiasts here feel about the far more common silver, but I think I'm happy.
Still getting used to driving a manual again, but it's coming. Thanks again to all for your help.
My 2001 Protegé ES was silver. My wife's 2003 Protege5 is silver. The Titanium Gray is almost as easy to keep clean, but not quite. I agree with what you say about not wanting the "auxiliary plastic" in AP1 and with the rear spoiler. I added the small mud guards, but that is all I plan to do with exterior add-ons. Enjoy the stick!
I had the dealer put the mud guards on while they were installing my alarm and auto-dimming mirror and removing my "baby teeth." It cost me $35 for the mud guard installation.
As for the visors, I removed the driver's side visor and put in a Visor Plug from:
On the passenger side, I put on a Visor Glove (also from knobmeister) for my wife who did not like looking in the mirror whenever the visor was down. Both the plug and glove are black w/blue writing to match the interior of my Shinsen.
Your biggest challenge for the slave will be bleeding it, as most slaves are rather small in cylinder volume and dont' bleed easily.
One trick is gravity bleeding, where, after you've installed the slave, you leave the bleeder nut open, and then fill the Master from up top, and keep feeding the master as fluid runs through the system and through the slave into a bottle. After running 3-4 refills through the master, the air should be out, then run downstairs and shut the slave bleeder nut. Be sure you never allow the master reservoir to drain.
Then button everything up and see if you have clutch action. If not, you can have a buddy help you by pumping the clutch while you bleed the system. Don't use long travel strokes with the foot, but rather very short and rapid movements of the clutch pedal during bleeding.
If these bleeding procedures fail, we have two more sneaky ways to do it, with a) air pressure, and b) reverse bleeding.
Hi, I'm looking to buy a used Miata as a second car to have something a little more fun than my station wagon. The one I'm most interested in right now is a 99 with a 5sp, power windows, CD, and ABS with just over 44K miles. The owner is asking around $11.5K.
I have not yet gone to look at this particular car, but I was wondering if there are any Miata-specific things that I should check before I buy. In other words, are there any problem areas with this model that I should look out for upfront?
From what it seems, the Miatas (of most any year) are nearly bulletproof cars from a reliability standpoint -- one of the things that definitely draws me to the car. I've looked at some beautiful used Z3's with low miles that are really affordable on the used market, but BMW's aren't really known for their reliability and I don't want to get stuck with a bunch of maintenance issues on my "fun" car.
Probably the most likely thing to go on that car is the CD player. I would certainly expect that it should last a very long time assuming it has been well cared for thus far. I know of no specific things that plague 99 Miatas. If it has fog lights, there will be a recall coming out to fix a potential faulty wiring issue, but that is about it.
Shifty - I'm sure you're right, and it's not about the cost, it's about the time. 2 kids at home don't leave much free time. I can wash the cars 'cause the toddler joins in and enjoys it, but I'm not gonna jack it up while she's around, too risky (what's this daddy? PLOP!).
Thanks for the tips. I'll take a few pics since I haven't been able to find any myself.
Yes, either that or cinder blocks. I prefer ramps if I don't have to take the wheels off.
My brother, when we were teens, once jacked up dad's Mercury using the wrong jacking point. It crushed right through the floor board! Luckily noone was underneath the car, he was changing a flat.
I just don't like the idea of all that potential energy around a toddler.
You are right Juice, little ones & cars on jacks don't mix. The slave isn't to hard to do. Just do it during nap time. ;-) One more thing DON"T get under a car that is supported by cinder blocks! Those things can be deadly. Your kids will need you around to pay for their college someday down the road.;-)
I use ramps most of the time, including every time I'm under the car. I really only use the jack to rotate tires, and then I'm not in a position where I'd ever get hurt.
Thanks, I talked with the owner (a retired guy) and I might try to see the car in a few weeks (it's located 2 hours away from me). One thing that concerns me is that he never did a 30K service on it...just oil changes. Maybe I'm overly retentive, but that's a pretty big service not to do. Anyway, thanks for the help! B
I am going in tomorrow for dent removal. The minor dent was not evident pre-delivery, but the dealer is going to take care of it (using dent magic guys). Anyway, after listening to the thread about eye teeth, thought I should know if this is something I should be prepared to pay for. If so, how much? They don't bother me, but I don't want to appear as a "newbie" with my Miata brothers and sisters. Thanks in advance.
My dealer charged me $35 to remove them. Considering I tried for an hour to remove them myself with nothing to show for it, I gladly paid the money. If you are taking it to the dealer where you purchased it, they may be more willing to do it for free. As my usual dealer had no Shinsens in stock when I bought mine, I had to go elsewhere.
You said you had them install the auto-dimming mirror and alarm. Are you happy with these items. Was the mirror and alarm pre-wired from factory? Did they need to open up door panels, etc. to plumb the alarm? How did they do putting things back together?
Yes, they had to fish wire through the dash for the alarm and through the windshield frame for the mirror. After one glitch, they got the mirror right. They had wired it into the wrong power point originally. Other than that, I am very pleased with both items. Everything was put back together except the fuse box cover which was easy enough to re-install.
Comments
There is a topic for questions to car dealers, I'm sure someone there could answer that for you.
-juice
The dealer was nothing to do with the financing of the car. Mazda American credit will need to be paid off before they will release the title to anyone. Your best bet will probably be to write out your check to Mazda American Credit to pay off the loan and arrange for the title to be sent to you. If your are going to get a loan for it, you will take the title with you to the DMV when you register the car and they will take the title from you and send it to your lein holder. At least that's how they do it in MO, YMMV.
If not that...did you replace all your radiator hoses. Any chance you have a flabby one that could be collapsing at high temp/high speed?
I am thinking of installing 17' rear wheels while keeping the front ones 14'. Does anyone know if there is any problem with that? kind like cool-rod.
I suspect it would be an awkward vehicle and not very stable in anything but a straight line. Maybe for a show car or creeping around town on a cruise?
Again, why would you do this to a rear drive car?
The car has a new Robbins top, Hard Dog sport roll bar, new Westco battery, only 2000 miles on a set of Bridgestone Potenzas and 77k miles on the car. Should this effect what I can get for the car at all? Are there ways/resources to sell the car fairly quickly that I may be overlooking? Getting as much as I can for it would be helpful in funding the move more comfortably.
What better place to own a Miata than LA?
First, consider unsprung weight. You will actually increase the overall weight substantially, and most likely throw the suspension off balance. The springs/shocks will have to fight with far more mass bouncing over pot holes.
Ride will be untolerably stiff, too. You'll need almost zero sidewall to fit those under the fenders.
Another thing - heavy wheels require more energy to spin. So you'll actually end up with a slower car. Probably not what you want.
And think about it - 17" will not impress anyone nowadays, with the Infiniti FX45 carrying 20" rims standard. If you try to brag about it, they'll say "JUST seventeen? That's it?"
So it won't even accomplish the single goal of impressing by-standers.
-juice
Of course, cars are sold outside this curve, but if you want to know what a fair price is, that is "good for buyer, good for seller" I think TMV is pretty darn good. At least you know that if someone waves that much money at you, what TMV says, you should think twice before turning it down.
As for the accessories you mentioned, I don't think they are worth a premium. All "nice" cars are expected to have a good top and good tires, and as for the roll bar, this might be as much an impediment to selling as an asset, depending on who comes buy to look. So I think this option is "self-cancelling".
Are there any other places to sell a pre-owned vehicle besides the ole' classified section in the daily news that anybody has had success with and I should look into?
I hurts me to sell this car when I know I am moving to the one place on earth that God might have created specifically for sporty little convertibles. I'm not over the sports car bug yet though. As soon as we get economically stable out there we are going to get another car like this.
An ad in a large circulation MAJOR metropolitan paper, while a bit expensive, gives you the most "lookers for the dollar".
Nows' the time to sell this car, so you should get right on it. A little sign in the window can't hurt either but you may not wish to give a home phone #. Better to give a cell.
Or try Cars.com. For instance, all ads in the Washington Post also go on cars.com (not sure if the opposite is true), so it's good for selling a car in DC.
-juice
http://www.miataclubofcanada.com/english.htm
Thanks for everyones advice.
Now to plan for the next sports car
My vinyl top is about 11 years old and has one small crack on it, which I've patched. Otherwise it's in good condition. I think that's a pretty long-lasting top. I don't know about the durability of a cloth top.
I bought it used to it is sort of stained a bit, and I was not able to clean it off. But I imagine a cloth top would only require more cleaning.
Other than that, aesthetically, a cloth top looks very nice, and generally they cost more.
-juice
Titanium Gray paint
Blue Cloth Top
Blue Seats, Shifter Accent, and Door Accents
Shinsen Version badges and floor mats
Limited Slip Differential
Cruise Control
Power Door Locks
Keyless Entry
Tweeter Speakers in front doors
Aluminum looking trim pieces
They only made 1500 of these. I have #442. If you want cloth seats and top, Shinsen is the only option. The cloth top really isn't that hard to clean. I wouldn't worry about it when considering what to buy.
But, there are tons of them out there in great shape so I am not worried that when I am settled in from the move I can find another.
Living in coastal Georgia with the Miata was a bit of a letdown at times because the roads are so straight and flat. Sure it was great to cruise down to the beach with the top down (or even just the grocery store), but I always wanted more curves to play with. I can't wait until I get another little sportscar and my cruise to the beach involves canyon roads! Yeeha!
Boggse, I love your Shinsen model. Would have gone that way if the local model was a base Shinsen like yours. This one had AP1 and a spoiler. Beautiful, but I wanted to maintain a little lower profile. Don't know how the enthusiasts here feel about the far more common silver, but I think I'm happy.
Still getting used to driving a manual again, but it's coming. Thanks again to all for your help.
That clutch is as forgiving as any I've tried.
-juice
You will get used to the manual in no time. Welcome aboard!
Boggse, did you put those mud guards on? Easy?
Do you all remove the air bag warning stickers on the visors? From past experience, I know they can have a nasty adhesive that can be a problem.
Thanks again and in advance. I just realized I should have checked the archives for possible answers. Will go there now.
As for the visors, I removed the driver's side visor and put in a Visor Plug from:
http://www.knobmeister.com/
On the passenger side, I put on a Visor Glove (also from knobmeister) for my wife who did not like looking in the mirror whenever the visor was down. Both the plug and glove are black w/blue writing to match the interior of my Shinsen.
Any last tips before I take on the slave cylinder job? I have lots of text from Miata.net's garage, but no photos. Anyone have any of those?
-juice
No help with the slave. Have not done significant mechanical work since my 64 International Scout. Miss that little piece of farm equipment.
Thanks for the ideas boggse.
One trick is gravity bleeding, where, after you've installed the slave, you leave the bleeder nut open, and then fill the Master from up top, and keep feeding the master as fluid runs through the system and through the slave into a bottle. After running 3-4 refills through the master, the air should be out, then run downstairs and shut the slave bleeder nut. Be sure you never allow the master reservoir to drain.
Then button everything up and see if you have clutch action. If not, you can have a buddy help you by pumping the clutch while you bleed the system. Don't use long travel strokes with the foot, but rather very short and rapid movements of the clutch pedal during bleeding.
If these bleeding procedures fail, we have two more sneaky ways to do it, with a) air pressure, and b) reverse bleeding.
I have not yet gone to look at this particular car, but I was wondering if there are any Miata-specific things that I should check before I buy. In other words, are there any problem areas with this model that I should look out for upfront?
From what it seems, the Miatas (of most any year) are nearly bulletproof cars from a reliability standpoint -- one of the things that definitely draws me to the car. I've looked at some beautiful used Z3's with low miles that are really affordable on the used market, but BMW's aren't really known for their reliability and I don't want to get stuck with a bunch of maintenance issues on my "fun" car.
Any help would be appreciated!
Brian
I did detail her. She looks gorgeous! By the way, it's white. I had forgotten!
I have 3 days off next week, so I think I'll do the slave then. I forgot the fresh brake fluid! Doh!
-juice
If you MUST rebuild it, just clean the bore using WD-40, liberally applied, and 600 wet/dry sandpaper twirled BY HAND----NO MACHINES!!!
flush thoroughly and assemble, and when it doesn't work, go out and buy a new one.
to see if the '99 you are looking at may be subject to an engine issue related to the #4 thrust bearing.
Thanks for the tips. I'll take a few pics since I haven't been able to find any myself.
-juice
My brother, when we were teens, once jacked up dad's Mercury using the wrong jacking point. It crushed right through the floor board! Luckily noone was underneath the car, he was changing a flat.
I just don't like the idea of all that potential energy around a toddler.
-juice
-juice
B
I am going in tomorrow for dent removal. The minor dent was not evident pre-delivery, but the dealer is going to take care of it (using dent magic guys). Anyway, after listening to the thread about eye teeth, thought I should know if this is something I should be prepared to pay for. If so, how much? They don't bother me, but I don't want to appear as a "newbie" with my Miata brothers and sisters. Thanks in advance.