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Special Rates
0-60 months = 2.9%
72 months = 3.9%
If you are leasing and currently have an Infiniti you get a $1000 Lease Loyalty Rebate.
Dealers are starting to get these cars in at a faster rate, so I expect you will see some discounting now - look for $1000 to $1500 off MSRP at first, maybe towards the end of the month is will get a tad better.
Just sell volume. You can't hold gross on an Infiniti. And definitely not in a recession.
I asked about ordering directly from factory and they said it takes 6 months. They did not seem to want to do that.
How do I negotiate a lease when the car won't be in for such a long time? There may be better incentives and lease rates in the future.
Direct factory orders for M56s were canceled in April due to a shortage of the 5.6 liter engines, mainly due to the 2011 QX56 using the same engine (albeit with 20 less HP) and being released very soon. However, my dealer just made its May order and nothing was cancelled, plus my Malbec Black M56 is expected by mid-August.
I did have to put a $1,000 check down on the factory order, but the dealership won't cash it until the car arrives and all papers are signed for the purchase or lease.
BTW, according to the salesperson, I'm not obligated to buy this car even though it's being ordered per my specifications! But giving Infiniti the downpayment check is supposed to give the dealership leverage when asking for my vehicle to be built/shipped more quickly than those cars not already pre-sold.
I'm hoping that, by building this car to my requirements, the dealership will be more willing to deal since it's virtually a guaranteed sale and potentially a difficult configuration to turn around without my purchase.
EMAIL:
From: USAA Car Buying Service
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 9:46 PM
Subject: Your price has dropped
2011 Infiniti
M37 4dr Sedan RWD
YOUR OLD PRICE: $500 above invoice including incentives
YOUR NEW PRICE: $200 below invoice including incentives YOUR PRICE DROP: $700
BTW - I am seeing dealers discount the M37 around $1000-$1500 now but the M56 in still holding at MSRP.
Hope this helps.
Thanks!
The M37 is now going for about $1000-$2000 off MSRP.
The M56 is going for MSRP or $500 off (very hard to get right now).
Why do you have the impression that it's slow moving (and fast depreciating)? Where I live in the SF bay area, they can't keep them in stock.
Overpriced? It's actually priced very well compared to the 5 series and E350 for what you get. Perhaps you should do some more research....
http://usaa2.zag.com/main.html?referrer_id=ZUSA200078
You don't need to even register to get their price. I just looked right now. Why would I make this up? You must be a dealer.
2011 M56 is $5,572 off MSRP with these options (what I like)
Black Obsidian Exterior
Wheat Leather/Japanese Ash Wood Trim
Sport Touring Package
Sport Package
Carpeted Trunk Mat, Trunk Net and First Aid Kit
Painted Splash Guards
Rear Decklid Spoiler
2011 M37 is $5,128 off MSRP with same options above
I said it must be slow moving because USAA sent me an email that the discount was better. Did you even read my post?
I got my G37 for well below invoice. You just don't know the business. I'm just trying to help you all. Oh well, pay what you want. Just glad you don't negotiate for my family. Go ahead and piss away your money.
What zip code did you use when configuring that quote?
It's a 39 mo. lease with 18k miles per year. I'm out of pocket for the 1st mo., bank fee, acquisiton fee and dmv. (About 2k) I'm a current owner so they are giving me 1K owner loyalty. I'm also giving up 6k worth of MSDs. The lease rate is $620 including NJ taxes. Curious what people think about the deal....
That being said, the comments of InDemand make me shake my head. I am here to tell you that I want to negotiate the LOWEST deal possible. If I negotiate a GREAT deal and the dealer treats me poorly during the paperwork and/or when I bring it in for service, then shame on them. Just as I am not forced to buy at a high price, nobody forces any dealer to sell at a very low price.
It seems ludicrous for somebody to say: I want us all to be happy and will gladly pay hundreds or thousands more than I need to, so the dealer or salesperson will like me and treat me well. Remember, any good deal is not the best deal.
Should many of us feel ashamed for saving hundreds or thousands more than others...I say not in the least.
The real point of my reply regarded the USAA, Zag, True Car pricing. I read ScottW’s messages and had no problem with them. I found his post intriguing. I went to the True Car, USAA, Zag site and confirmed exactly what he stated. However, this just seemed too good to be true. So I began plugging in other car models and came to the conclusion that their pricing on the M56 was unrealistic. Their computer generated pricing defaults to very optimistic when there are insufficient sales data, not to mention inventory. I can configure whatever I want on their site but since the model I just configured doesn’t even exist I can’t buy it anyway.
This is one of the best lead sources we have - strong customers with good credit; however, it is not perfect and can be a tad misleading at times.
The "Target Price" given to a customer is just that - an expected price, a ballpark. The is a small "i" next to the word "Target Price" - if you mouse on the small box, it opens a window to define - "Target Price". Not an exact price.
Next, many of the vehicles are not EXACTLY configured as a customer may build on one of these sites, the car may have a mat, or tint, or pinstripe - once these items are billed to a vehicle, they cannot just disappear - so the dealers price may be a tad higher there too. Infiniti charges most dealers (depends on state in which they do business) a Warranty Supplement Charge - this too is not reflected on the USAA site - it runs around $150 (again depending on the state).
Next - the price give on the site does assume you are taking the dealer cash option and not special rates or leasing.
Zag polls different dealers around the US - takes their prices and averages them, and from what I can tell throws out the higher price dealers and puts these awesome prices on-line. Customer comes into local dealer and gets mad when the prices don't line up exactly. Well, what some small town guy in Oregon is selling Infinitis for may not match what they are selling for in Texas, then you got the Warranty Supplement not factored in, then you got vehicles that may have more equipment then what the customer built - next thing you know the dealer is charging $740 more than what the site said and distrust creeps in!!
Zag/USAA needs to be more regional, they need to add choices for after-market products, they need to add in the Warranty Supplement - then when a customer builds a vehicle at home to match the one they saw at the dealership - the price matches and everyone is happy! The vehicles are worth what the dealership is selling them for but doubt arrives when the customer reads they should get it cheaper.
All that said - we sell about 30% of the leads we get from Zag/USAA/AMEX - this is the highest closing ratio of all our lead providers - by the way we (the dealers) pay Zag, etc a monthly fee - so we (the dealers) are the customers of Zag/USAA - crazy!
Hope this helps.
PS The M prices are a bit screwed up because some lazy dealers never changed their pricing from the 2010 M's - so you got some dealers saying they will take $6000 off while some are saying they will take $1000 off - Zag figures the average - and you get an unrealistic "Target Price" - this helps no one! Just causes more distrust between consumer and dealer.
PSS No way to get $5000 off an M56, lucky to find one and get a discount at all right now.
Keep in mind the numbers below are Averages! So, some customers paid more, some less, some were VPP, some bought after-market accessories, some had trade-ins, etc.
Sold 15 M37 at an average of $2130 over invoice.
Sold 4 M56 at an average of $3503 over invoice.
The prices on the M37 are coming down, Infiniti is still not giving any money on them but will continue to have the 2.9% (up to 60) or 3.9% (up to 72) as an incentive to purchase. The leases are strong and there is $1000 Loyalty Rebate IF you have an Infinti and lease the new one.
Hope this helps. I expect the June numbers to be about $500-$700 less.
On another note, does the infiniti lease rate specials advertised on their website apply to all models or just the particular build up as stated? Or, what can we extrapolate from these specials?
Thanks
Yes, of course you have to price out your exact car with options on the USAA site, but the price that comes up for a dealer should be the price you pay.
I can understand the USAA price not being valid for leases...IF there is marketing money or rebates of some sort on a purchase that don't apply to a lease. In the case of the M37, there is no money on either right now...in fact the capitalized lease price should be $1000 less than the USAA purchase price for a current infiniti customer.
If you are adding "warranty supplemental cost" and it's not on the car sticker, then I would personally walk out....because that would seem to me to be a form of bait with a low price and then switch prices....but that's between you and your customers.
Lease rate or money factor depends on credit - they are assuming that you have perfect credit. There is also a disclaimer on those ads that say "dealers participation may vary".
When I price a car on AutoTrader.com or Cars.com - they put the price I list - not USAA/Zag - they put the price they think is fair based on what all the dealers input and averages....this causes problems between the dealers and the customer. Of course, the customer wants the lower price and the dealer is the "bad" guy.
We should "fire" USAA/Zag but the leads are so good and as you know we are greedy - so we are trying to "work" through it right now - it is better than it was a few months ago.
We do not add "warranty supplement" when we do normal negotiations because we start at MSRP and discount, but with USAA - the customer wants to build the car but they leave off options that are on the actual invoice and this is one of the items on the invoice. USAA can't put that item on their program because the cost is different for the same option (Warr Supp) depending on the state. It is messed up, but not the dealers fault....
Why don't you add in the dealer marketing contribution to the USAA price or a dealer prep fee (in addition to the administrative fee).
So yes, I'd walk over $150 on a $50,000 car...not for the $150, but it would tell me what to expect from their service department. Oh, that's not covered under warranty! your warranty will be void if you don't buy our full recommended services! We add additives during our oil changes! and we prefer that you send your wife in with the car for service so we can sell her air filters
So is the $49k before the $1k owner loyalty? Meaning you're actually only paying $48k for the car?
May I ask which dealer in NJ you've been working with?
Thanks for the post
Wow, You have had a rough time at dealers. I've never had that happen to me at an Infiniti dealer (yet). I have an Infiniti now that I get serviced where I want, Just keep the reciepts. Ive been told that that is all that is needed to remain under warranty. My point again about the warranty supplement of $150 is that just because USAA doesnt list it doesnt mean it doesnt exist. I wonder how many times USAA tells a customer " that's not covered" or "Your policy price is going up" for no reason or "we dont pay that price for repair". You trust them to be right about everything and I'm just saying I dont trust insurance companies for anything. They are the kings of the ripoff. The $150 doesnt tell you jack about the service dept. especially since they told you up front.
The lease tax in PA is 3% more than the sales tax.. but, they are only taxing the payment and cap reductions... .not the whole car..
regards,
kyfdx
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Also, could you share the dealership and location in PA? I am in the Philly area but more than willing to travel up to 400 miles to get the right deal when I am ready....which may be late this year or early next year.
This was in Phoenix, AZ. Great deal?
If it's not too late, have the dealer run both length leases because they have different money factors and residuals...and, just to be sure, ask to see the rate sheet to verify that he's using the current infiniti rates and not marking them up.
Then add up all the payments you'll make over the life of the lease (first payment plus all the other payments, including taxes. Then divide that number by the length of the lease to get your true cost per month. Finally, pick the lease length that has the lowest cost per month.
You can't guess at the payments or which is better....you have to get the actual numbers from the dealer.
Finally, consider making multiple security deposits. On the lease I'm about to sign for an M37 for 36 mos, I am saving about $2500 by loaning infiniti $5500 for three years. That's a heck of a good return on that $5500.